Kia Carnival / Sedona factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & consumables
- Floor jack + 2 quality jackstands (rated for vehicle weight)
- Wheel chocks
- 1/2" drive breaker bar, extensions
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (0–250 ft·lb or 0–340 N·m)
- 3/8" drive torque wrench for smaller fasteners
- 1/2" impact wrench (optional; for stuck bolts only; never for final torque)
- Sockets & wrenches: common sizes 14, 17, 19, 21, 22, 24 mm (metric set)
- Ball-joint separator/pickle fork and/or mechanical ball-joint press kit (C-clamp style)
- Large pry bar and hammer
- Punch & drift, cold chisel
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil)
- Wire brush, rags, brake cleaner
- Replacement bolts/nuts (OE or high-quality aftermarket — many manufacturer bolts are torque-to-yield and should be replaced)
- Anti-seize and threadlocker (medium strength)
- New control arm(s) assembly (prefer OE or premium aftermarket). Buy with press-in ball joint and bushings already installed if possible.
- New cotter pins, new sway bar link hardware if needed, grease for ball joint if zerk fittings present
- Engine support or tall jack and block of wood (only if removing inner mount that supports engine subframe)
- Wheel alignment after installation (required)

Safety & prep
- Work on flat level surface. Chock opposite wheels.
- Engage parking brake, put transmission in Park (or 1st gear on manual).
- Never rely on a jack alone — always use jackstands on solid points of the frame/subframe.
- Support the engine or subframe if removal of a subframe or engine mount is required. Do not let the engine sag.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.

Overview of parts to replace
- Lower control arm assembly (most recommend replacing entire arm — includes ball joint & bushings)
- New mounting bolts/nuts (recommended)
- Sway bar end link or bushings if worn
- Cotter pins & any damaged retaining hardware
- Steering/ball joint components if excessive wear found

Step-by-step procedure (typical front lower control arm replacement)
Note: This is a generic, all-model procedure applicable to Kia Carnival / Sedona front lower control arm replacement. Verify service manual for year-specific points and torque specs.

1) Preparation
- Loosen (but do not remove) the lug nuts on the wheel with the vehicle on the ground.
- Raise vehicle with floor jack at jacking point; place jackstands under vehicle at safe support points (subframe or pinch welds). Lower onto stands.
- Remove wheel.

2) Access & disconnect
- Inspect: identify control arm mounting bolts (inboard bushings and ball joint to knuckle).
- Remove ABS sensor wire brackets or any clips attached to control arm.
- Remove sway bar end link from the control arm (usually held by a nut at the link stud). Use two wrenches to prevent shaft turning or use impact to remove nut. If end link is seized, apply penetrating oil, hit the link stud with hammer to shock loose.
- Remove any stabilizer or control-arm-to-subframe brackets in the way.
- If applicable, remove lower ball joint cotter pin and loosen the ball joint nut a few turns but do not remove yet.

3) Separate the ball joint from the knuckle
- Use a ball-joint separator tool or a press puller. Two methods:
a) Tie-rod style puller: position puller between control arm and knuckle, tighten forcing stud out of tapered hole. Keep nut threaded partly to protect threads. Hammering pickle fork risks damaging CV/boots.
b) Ball joint press: position the C-clamp press across the ball joint cup and the receiving adapters; slowly press the ball stud out of knuckle. Use press if press-fit or stubborn.
- Once ball joint separates, remove nut and any castle nut/cotter pin.

How the tools are used: the tie-rod puller forces the tapered stud out by pressing directly against the stud; the press uses threaded pressure to push the stud out while protecting seals and threads. Use the press when you need to preserve components or if the boot/knuckle is tight.

4) Remove control arm mounting bolts
- Support the control arm with a jack (floor jack with a block of wood under the arm) to take load off bolts.
- Remove inboard mounting bolts/nuts (bushing bolts through subframe/body). If bolts are seized, apply penetrating oil, heat carefully with a torch (avoid rubber parts), and use breaker bar/impact.
- Remove control arm and slide out.

Common pitfall: Not supporting the arm can let it drop and damage brake lines or the sway bar. Use a jack to support.

5) Inspect & prepare new arm
- Compare old & new arms. New arm should match pivot points, ball joint orientation, and bracket locations.
- Clean mounting holes and surfaces on subframe with wire brush and brake cleaner.
- Use anti-seize on bolts’ threads and apply new hardware per manufacturer recommendations. If manual specifies replacing bolts, do so.

6) Install new control arm
- Position new arm and start inboard bolts by hand only.
- Reconnect ball joint into knuckle, thread ball joint nut by hand.
- Torque sequence: tighten ball joint nut to spec but do not final torque if manufacturer specifies torquing bushings at ride height. Typical practice on many cars: tighten ball joint nut to spec while loaded or according to service manual.

Torque guidance (confirm with factory manual — example ranges)
- Control arm pivot bolts: 80–140 N·m (60–103 ft·lb)
- Ball joint nut: 50–95 N·m (37–70 ft·lb)
- Sway bar link nut: 25–50 N·m (18–37 ft·lb)
Final torque must be set with a calibrated torque wrench. Do not rely on impact for final torque.

Important: Some manufacturers require the inboard bushing bolts to be tightened with the suspension at ride height to avoid preloading bushings. If so: snug bolts with vehicle on stands, lower vehicle onto wheels or jack to approximate ride height (use blocks under tires), then torque to spec.

7) Reassemble
- Reattach sway bar link and any brackets/clips.
- Reattach ABS sensor brackets and any wiring.
- Fit new cotter pin if applicable.
- Refit wheel, hand-tighten lug nuts.

8) Lower vehicle & final torque
- Lower vehicle so wheels just touch the ground or vehicle at normal ride height (per manufacturer instruction) if required.
- Torque all control arm pivot bolts, ball joint nut, and wheel lug nuts to specified values with torque wrench.
- Torque lug nuts in star pattern to spec.

9) Final checks
- Check clearances and that nothing is contacting brake lines/CV boots.
- Test steering travel by turning wheels both ways.
- Road test at low speed to confirm behavior.
- Get professional 4-wheel alignment immediately after replacement (camber/caster/toe will change).

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Rusted seized bolts: apply penetrating oil overnight; use heat; use correct-sized sockets; protect surrounding rubber/lines from torch.
- Relying on impact for final torque: always finish with torque wrench.
- Not replacing hardware: many OEM bolts are torque-to-yield; use new bolts to avoid failure.
- Not supporting engine/subframe: failure to support can damage mounts or drop components.
- Forgetting alignment: vehicle will pull and tires will wear.
- Damaging CV boots/ABS wiring while prying: support and protect lines.
- Incorrect bushing preload: follow manual — many bushings must be torqued at ride height.

When to press/replace bushings vs whole arm
- Pressing bushings requires a bushing press and is more work. For a Sedona/Carnival, it’s usually cheaper and safer to buy complete control arm with bushings/ball joint pre-installed.

Quick checklist before finishing
- New bolts & nuts installed where required
- Ball joint cotter pin in place (if used)
- Torque values verified
- Wheel alignment scheduled
- No interference or binding throughout full suspension travel

That’s the procedure. Follow the vehicle-specific service manual for exact torque specs and any model-specific steps.
rteeqp73

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Kia Sedona ecu location (2004) a video demonstrating the location of the ecu unit in a Kia Sedona. This model is 2004 and later models vary.

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