Below is a practical, detailed, beginner-friendly guide to diagnosing and repairing the hydraulic power steering system on a Nissan Skyline R32 (common-sense for both GTS and GTR platforms). I include theory, every major component and what the parts do, common failure modes, a safety checklist, the step-by-step repairs you can do at home (hose replacement, pump replacement, rack removal/rebuild or replacement, and bleeding), tools and consumables, troubleshooting tips, and final checks. No fluff.

Quick safety checklist (read and follow)
- Work on a flat surface. Use wheel chocks and jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Power steering fluid is irritating; avoid skin contact.
- Let engine cool before working near belts/pulleys.
- Don’t run the pump dry for long — it damages pump internals.
- If unsure at any point, get a factory service manual or a pro mechanic to assist.

Theory — how the hydraulic power steering works (simple analogy)
- Think of the system as a water system that helps you move a heavy gate. The pump (a water pump) pressurizes hydraulic fluid and pushes it through hoses to a steering rack (a sliding gate with a piston). A valve (rotary valve or control valve inside the steering rack) directs pressurized fluid to one side of a piston inside the rack when you turn the wheel, assisting the push so you don’t have to push as hard. Return fluid flows back low-pressure to the reservoir. A belt drives the pump from the engine.
- Key functions: pump creates pressure, valve directs pressure according to steering input, rack converts hydraulic pressure into lateral force on the tie rods/wheels.

Major components — what they are and what they do
- Power steering pump:
- Driven by the engine via accessory belt and pulley.
- Internal type: typically a vane or gear pump for R32. It produces flow and pressure.
- Has mounting flanges, fluid inlet/outlet ports, and sometimes an integrated reservoir or connected remote reservoir.
- Failures: internal wear (reduced pressure), noisy bearings, leaking shaft seal.

- Reservoir:
- Holds power steering fluid (plastic or metal). Has a cap with a dip/level mark.
- Allows air to escape and provides a place to inspect fluid condition.
- Failures: cracked reservoir, clogged internal filter screen, contaminated fluid.

- High-pressure hose (pressure line):
- Reinforced hose with a metal fitting that carries pressurized fluid from the pump to the steering rack.
- Subject to high pressure; uses copper crush washers/banjo bolts or flared fittings.
- Failures: external leaks, internal delamination, blowouts.

- Low-pressure return hose:
- Returns fluid from rack to reservoir. Less reinforced but still oil-resistant.
- Failures: leaks, cracks, blocked return causing foaming/air.

- Steering rack and pinion (hydraulic rack):
- The core of the steering gear. Contains the rack (sliding bar), pinion (steering input), a control/rotary valve, pistons/seals that allow hydraulic assist.
- Mounts to the subframe, connects to the steering column via a universal/joint coupling.
- Tie rods (inner and outer) connect the rack to the wheel hubs.
- Rack boots (bellows) protect inner tie rods and the rack ends.
- Failures: leaking seals (rack boots wet with fluid), worn internals (play, poor assist), torn boots causing dirt entry, damaged tie rod ends.

- Fittings and clamps:
- Banjo bolts, crush washers, hose clamps, and O-rings seal the connections.

- Steering column coupling:
- Connects steering wheel to pinion input; must be aligned/secured.

- Optional cooler/filters:
- Some systems use a small cooler or filter screen in the reservoir; clogging can affect flow.

Symptoms that indicate repair is needed
- Steering is heavy or has inconsistent assist.
- Loud whining or groaning from pump (esp. on lock) or chirping from belt.
- Fluid puddles underneath vehicle, wet rack boots, or fluid around pump.
- Foamy fluid in reservoir (air ingress).
- Steering wanders, uneven return-to-center, or excessive play.
- Burning smell from fluid (overheated or highly contaminated fluid).

Preliminary diagnosis steps (inspect before disassembly)
1. Check fluid level and condition: color (clear/red/brown/black), smell, metal flakes. Dark/contaminated fluid implies internal wear; black or burnt fluid suggests overheating/contamination.
2. Visually trace leaks: pump body, hoses, banjo bolt areas, rack boots, and around fittings. Use clean rag to dry areas, then run engine and watch.
3. Check drive belt tension and condition; a slipping belt → low pump speed → poor assist & noise.
4. Check for play in steering: with car off, move wheel and feel for free play at steering wheel, tie rod looseness.
5. Inspect rack boots for tears: a torn boot allows dirt in and leads to internal rack wear.
6. If you have access to a pressure gauge, measure pump pressure (factory spec in service manual). This is optional for a beginner but helps isolate pump vs rack faults.

Tools and supplies (typical)
- Jack, jack stands or ramps, wheel chocks.
- Drain pan, rags, shop towels.
- Socket set, wrenches, torque wrench.
- Flare-nut wrench set (for hydraulic fittings) or appropriate line wrenches.
- Screwdrivers, pliers, hammer, punch.
- Tie-rod end puller/inner tie-rod tool (inner tie-rod tool common and helpful).
- PTO/impact not required but useful.
- New copper crush washers or O-rings for banjo bolts.
- Replacement hoses, pump, or rack as needed.
- Power steering fluid: use the fluid specified in the service manual (Nissan PSF or the recommended automatic transmission fluid type — check the factory spec).
- New boots, clamps, seals if rebuilding a rack.
- Replacement bolts or hardware if corroded.
- Safety gloves and eye protection.

Repair 1 — Replace a leaking hose (pressure or return)
When to do: visible leak at hose fitting, hose is cracked, or internal failure suspected.

Steps:
1. Park, chock wheels, raise front IF needed for access and support on stands.
2. Relieve system pressure by turning engine OFF. You can remove cap and run wheel left/right slowly THEN turn engine off. (Do not open pressurized fittings with engine running.)
3. Place drain pan under connection. Remove return hose clamp/connection first (low pressure), then pressure hose connection. Use appropriate wrench to avoid rounding fittings. Expect fluid loss.
4. Remove hose from bracket and routing clips. Inspect banjo bolt and metal lines — replace crush washers.
5. Install new hose; ensure correct routing (no kinks) and secure with clips/bracket.
6. Tighten banjo/flare nuts to specified torque (consult manual). Replace crush washers.
7. Refill reservoir with correct fluid. Bleed the system: with engine OFF, turn wheel from lock-to-lock several times to push air out; start engine, top off fluid, repeat turning slowly left-right until no air/sputtering and fluid stabilizes. Road-test gently and recheck fluid level.
8. Check for leaks.

Repair 2 — Replace power steering pump
When to do: pump making noise, low/no pressure, leaking at pump shaft or fittings, internal contamination.

Steps:
1. Disconnect battery negative for safety (optional but good practice).
2. Raise car if necessary for access. Remove accessory belt (loosen tensioner or remove belt).
3. Place drain pan, disconnect low-pressure return hose, then high-pressure hose (with plug or plug the hose to limit spills). Remove mounting bolts and remove pump.
4. Transfer any pulleys/brackets from old pump to new if necessary (or replace entire assembly).
5. Fit new pump, tighten mounting bolts to spec, reconnect hoses with new crush washers and tighten.
6. Reinstall belt and adjust tension per factory spec.
7. Refill reservoir, bleed system as above. Check for leaks and noises. Note: some pumps require priming — turn steering with engine off to circulate fluid then start engine.

Repair 3 — Replace or rebuild steering rack
When to do: leaking rack seals, excessive play, internal failure, torn boots with contamination.

Notes: Rack replacement/rebuild is more advanced — requires alignment afterward and careful reassembly. If you don’t have inner tie-rod tool or experience, consider replacing the entire rack with a remanufactured unit.

High-level step-by-step:
1. Mark steering wheel and steering shaft position relative to each other so you can reinstall in same centered orientation.
2. Straighten wheels (center wheels), chock rear wheels, lift front and support on stands.
3. Remove front wheels and inspect.
4. Disconnect outer tie rod ends from steering knuckles (use tie rod puller).
5. Loosen clamp and slide off rack boots, inspect inner tie rods and ends.
6. Disconnect steering shaft coupling from pinion (usually a pinch bolt or cross-pin). Remove or slide shaft away, keeping marks aligned.
7. Support the rack with a jack or support. Remove crossmember or any brackets if they obstruct removal. Unbolt rack mounting bolts (usually 2 or 4).
8. Remove high-pressure and return hoses from the rack (have drain pan, replace crush washers).
9. Slide rack out. Keep steering wheel centered and rack in same orientation to avoid upsetting alignment.
10. Bench work: remove boots, inner tie rods, then remove circlips and end caps to access internal piston/seal assembly (specific internals vary). Replace steering rack seals, O-rings, and worn parts. Clean thoroughly and re-lubricate with fresh fluid. If you’re not comfortable, use a rebuilt rack or have a machine shop rebuild it.
11. Install rack back, reconnect hoses with new crush washers, torque bolts to spec, reconnect steering shaft and tie rods.
12. Pre-align wheel: ensure wheel center matches marked orientation. Torque everything correctly.
13. Bleed system and test before lowering car.
14. After road-testing, get a professional wheel alignment (toe settings are critical).

Bleeding/purging air (essential)
- Method A (pump-run method): Top up reservoir. Start engine and let idle. Turn wheel slowly full-left to full-right several times (don’t hold at full lock more than a few seconds). Keep topping off reservoir as air escapes. Continue until no more air bubbles appear and steering feels steady.
- Method B (assist method off engine briefly): With engine off, turn wheel lock-to-lock several times to work fluid through; start engine and repeat. Avoid running pump dry. Vacuum or pressure bleeder tools speed the process and give better results.
- Signs of incomplete bleed: foam in reservoir, whining pump noise, spongy steering, intermittent assist.

Troubleshooting checklist — match symptoms to causes
- Whining noise at idle: low fluid level, air in system, worn pump bearings, slipping belt.
- Whine under load / at full lock: pump weakness or low fluid or excessive pressure demand (tight steering).
- Grinding/metallic in fluid: internal wear — pump or rack damage — consider rebuild/replace.
- Persistent leak at banjo nut: bad crush washer or under-torqued fitting — replace washers and torque.
- Steering pull to one side: wheel alignment, uneven pressure, or rack internal problem.
- Excessive play/no return to center: worn rack internals, loose steering column u-joint, loose tie rods.
- Tearing boots: mechanical interference or worn tie rod causing movement beyond boot range.

Tips and best practices
- Always replace crush washers when removing banjo bolts; they deform to seal.
- Keep dirt out — cap lines when disconnected.
- Use only recommended fluid. Mixing fluids can cause foaming or seal swelling.
- If boots are torn, assume rack contamination and inspect internals; replacement/rebuild often cheaper long-term than patching.
- After any rack removal/installation, always get a professional alignment.
- Label and mark orientation of steering shaft components so you don’t alter steering center.

When to rebuild vs replace
- Replace pump if noisy and cheap enough or rebuild if you can get a quality rebuild kit and tools.
- Replace rack if internal damage or large wear; rebuilding requires skill and bench tools and must match original specs.
- For R32s, many owners elect to fit a remanufactured rack or a performance aftermarket rack for reliability.

Final checks after repair
- Recheck fluid level and top to spec.
- Inspect for leaks with engine running and wheels turned lock-to-lock.
- Check belt tension, pulley alignment.
- Road-test slowly checking for noise, play, pulling, and heat buildup.
- Book a professional wheel alignment immediately.

Common R32-specific notes (practical)
- R32 uses a hydraulic rack system; parts may differ by trim (GTR vs GTS), so match part numbers for your exact model year/market.
- Some replacement parts are shared across Nissan models — aftermarket options exist but confirm correct hose lengths and fittings.
- R32 steering quirks: older cars commonly suffer from perished hoses and torn rack boots; these are frequent leak sources.

Wrap-up
- Diagnosis: inspect fluid, hoses, boots, and belt first.
- Simple fixes for beginners: replace hoses, reservoir, pump (swap), and bleed properly.
- Advanced: rack removal, rebuild or replacement — doable but requires careful marking, torqueing, and follow-up alignment.
- If symptoms indicate pump failure or internal rack damage, replacement (pump or reman rack) is usually the most reliable fix for beginners.

You now have the theory, component roles, how to diagnose common failure modes, tools/supplies, step-by-step repair outlines for hoses, pump, and rack, bleeding procedure, troubleshooting tips, and safety reminders. Follow the steps, keep things clean, replace crush washers and torn boots, and get an alignment after any work on the rack/tie rods.
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