Kia Carnival / Sedona factory workshop and repair manual download

- Applicability note
- Many Kia Carnival / Sedona models (especially newer, fuel‑injected years) do not have a manual choke cable; they use electronic controls, idle air control valves, or a controlled throttle body. The procedure below applies only if your specific vehicle has a mechanical choke cable (typically older models or aftermarket installations).

- Safety first
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels.
- Work with the engine cold unless instructed otherwise.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves.
- Keep loose clothing, jewelry and long hair clear of moving parts.

- Tools required (each tool described and how to use it)
- Flathead screwdriver
- Description: single‑slot tip screwdriver for slotted screws and prying.
- How to use: choose a blade that fits the screw slot to avoid cam‑out; hold firmly and turn clockwise/counterclockwise. Use tip to gently lever retainers or pry grommets if stuck.
- Phillips screwdriver
- Description: cross‑head screwdriver for Phillips screws.
- How to use: select proper size, press tip into screw and turn; avoid stripping fasteners.
- Socket set with ratchet (metric sizes 8–14 mm typical)
- Description: ratchet handle and sockets to remove bolts/nuts quickly.
- How to use: select correct socket size, place on nut/bolt, use ratchet to loosen/tighten; use extension for recessed fasteners.
- Combination wrenches (open/box end) in common metric sizes (8–14 mm)
- Description: hand wrenches for nuts/bolts where a socket won’t fit.
- How to use: place boxed end over fastener for best grip; hold stationary while turning the other side.
- Needle‑nose pliers
- Description: long tapering pliers for accessing clips and small parts.
- How to use: grip and pull small clips, bend retaining tabs, hold cable ends while installing clips.
- Slip‑joint or tongue‑and‑groove pliers (Channel locks)
- Description: adjustable pliers for larger grips or stubborn parts.
- How to use: adjust jaw width, clamp onto part and twist/pull as needed.
- Wire cutters / diagonal cutters
- Description: used to cut zip ties or trim cable housings.
- How to use: position cable or tie in jaws and squeeze firmly; keep cut end away from you.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD‑40 Specialist)
- Description: fluid to free rusted or stuck fasteners and cable housings.
- How to use: spray on stuck joints, allow several minutes to penetrate, then try loosening.
- Cable lubricant (cable‑specific lube or light oil)
- Description: low‑viscosity lubricant for inner cable movement.
- How to use: apply into cable housing end and work cable in/out to distribute.
- Replacement choke cable (OEM or universal) — if replacing
- Description: new cable assembly sized/length matched to vehicle; may include grommets and clips.
- How to use: route and attach as described below; OEM part number recommended for exact fit.
- Small pick or hook tool
- Description: useful to remove retaining clips and grommets.
- How to use: hook clip and pull outwards; be careful not to tear rubber grommets.
- Zip ties and electrical tape
- Description: secure cable routing and protect against abrasion.
- How to use: snugly tie cable to existing brackets; tape ends to prevent fraying.

- Quick inspection (what to look for before adjusting or replacing)
- Locate choke cable from dash/knob to engine firewall; follow bundle into engine bay.
- Check for frayed inner cable, rusted housing, frozen movement, broken mounting brackets, torn grommet at firewall.
- If cable moves freely by hand (pull inner wire) and operates choke lever smoothly, adjustment may be enough.
- If inner wire is stiff, frayed, corroded, or housing split, replacement is required.

- How to adjust a choke cable (basic procedure)
- Preparation
- Ensure engine is off and cool; disconnect negative battery terminal only if you’ll be working near electrical connectors.
- Move dashboard choke knob to the cold (engaged) position so cable is extended.
- Access and loosen adjustment
- Trace cable to carburetor or choke lever assembly on throttle body.
- Find the clamp or locknut that sets cable length at the choke lever; use appropriate wrench or socket to loosen (don’t remove).
- Set choke plate position
- With engine cold and cable pulled, ensure choke plate is in the closed or specified position per carburetor manual (closed or slightly open depending on carb spec). Manually move choke lever to verify plate position.
- Adjust free play
- Back off the dashboard knob a small amount so there is minimal specified free play (consult carb spec if available; typically a slight free travel before actuating lever).
- Tighten the clamp/locknut while holding cable at correct length.
- Test operation
- Move dash choke control fully in/out and watch choke plate movement; it should move smoothly and reach both full open and full closed positions.
- Start engine (if safe) and verify idle and warm‑up behavior; readjust if overly rich or lean.
- Lubricate if sticky
- If movement is stiff but cable serviceable, apply cable lubricant into housing ends and work cable back and forth until smooth.

- How to replace a choke cable (complete replacement)
- Remove interior knob and cable head
- Pull dash knob off (may be screw‑on or push/pull); remove trim if needed.
- From inside footwell or under dash, remove any retaining clip that holds cable to dash plate and pull inner cable through dash.
- Free cable at firewall
- In engine bay, remove any retaining bracket and the grommet or bulkhead fitting holding the cable at firewall; use screwdrivers/picks to pry out grommet.
- Disconnect at choke lever
- Unclip or unbolt the inner cable end from the choke lever; retain any spring or small hardware if reusing.
- Loosen and remove any clamp that secures cable housing to carburetor/throttle housing.
- Pull cable assembly out and compare
- Pull entire cable through and compare new cable length and fittings to old one; ensure grommet fits firewall hole.
- Install new cable
- Route new cable through firewall grommet and seating into firewall; light silicone grease on grommet helps.
- Reattach cable housing to bracket/clamp and fasten but leave adjustable nut loose.
- Attach inner cable end to choke lever, secure with clip or retainer.
- From inside, attach dash end to knob and seat cable in dash plate.
- Final adjustment and test
- With everything connected but before fully tightening, set choke knob to proper rest position and adjust cable length at firewall clamp to achieve correct choke plate position as earlier.
- Tighten clamp/locknut, trim excess cable, secure with zip ties, and test operation.
- Start engine and verify warm/cold behavior.

- Common replacement parts and why they might be required
- Choke cable assembly
- Why: inner wire frayed, snapped, seized, housing corroded or stretched — replacement restores reliable operation.
- What to buy: OEM part for your model/year or a universal cable matched for length; request part by VIN for correct fit.
- Firewall grommet / rubber bulkhead seal
- Why: cracked grommet allows movement, abrasion, or water entry; new grommet holds cable securely and prevents friction.
- What to buy: rubber grommet sized for hole or included with cable kits.
- Retaining clips / small hardware
- Why: original clips may be brittle or lost; replacement ensures secure attachment to choke lever and dash.
- What to buy: small E‑clip or spring clip matching original.
- Lubricant and cable lube
- Why: to free sticky cables and prolong life; required for service.
- What to buy: cable‑specific lubricant or light machine oil.

- Signs replacement is required (when to replace, not just adjust)
- Inner cable frayed, kinked, or broken.
- Cable housing split, rusted through, or collapsing.
- Cable sticks even after lubrication.
- Choke knob moves but choke plate does not.
- Excessive free play that cannot be corrected by adjustment.

- If your vehicle has no mechanical choke (electronic systems instead)
- Symptoms resembling choke problems (hard cold start, poor idle) may be caused by:
- Faulty idle air control (IAC) valve
- Dirty throttle body
- Faulty coolant temperature sensor
- Fault codes in ECU
- Those cases require diagnostic scanning and different repairs (IAC cleaning/replacement, throttle body cleaning, sensor replacement).

- Final tips
- Keep removed small parts organized and note original routing to avoid pinching cable.
- Take photos of cable routing before removal.
- If you’re unsure whether your model has a choke cable, look under dash for a pull knob or inspect engine bay for a cable going to the throttle/choke lever; if none present, do not force anything—seek model‑specific info or a repair manual.
- Replace with OEM part where possible for correct fitment.

- Quick recap (one‑line)
- Inspect cable first; adjust if free and intact; replace the cable, grommet and clips if inner wire is frayed, seized, or housing damaged; follow routing, secure clamps, lubricate, and test operation.
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KIA Sedona 2.9 CRDi J3 engine / gearbox installation part2 Progress of J3 engine installation in KIA Sedona Carnival or Hyundai 2.9 CRDi - gearbox installation.

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