Kia Carnival / Sedona factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools and supplies
- Service manual for your exact Carnival/Sedona year & engine (mandatory for specs: clearances, bolt torques, timing marks).
- Metric socket set, ratchet, extensions, torque wrench.
- Small hex/Allen/torx bits if required by cam caps.
- Feeler gauge set (0.05–0.40 mm blades).
- Vernier caliper or micrometer (for measuring shim thickness).
- Camshaft holding/locking tool (if required by engine).
- Magnetic pickup, small pick, long-nose pliers.
- Clean rags, brake cleaner or parts cleaner.
- Container for small parts.
- New shims (assortment of sizes covering ±0.50 mm around current size).
- New valve cover gasket (recommended).
- RTV sealant (if specified), replacement cam cap bolts if they are stretch/Torx-to-yield style (check manual).
- Workshop gloves, eye protection.

Safety & prep
1. Work on a cold engine. Valve clearances must be checked on a cold engine unless the manual says otherwise.
2. Park on level ground, engage parking brake, chock wheels.
3. Disconnect negative battery terminal if you’ll be removing electrical components.
4. Relieve any pressure (cooling system if removing intake manifold near coolant passages).
5. Keep work area well-lit and ventilated.

Identify valve clearance type
- Many Kia engines use shim-under-bucket (mechanical shims) that require shim swaps. Some modern engines use hydraulic lash adjusters (no adjustment). Check the service manual or visually inspect: if you see small round buckets over each valve and a thin round shim under each bucket, you have shim-under-bucket. If you see hydraulic lifters (plunger-like) the system is self-adjusting — do not attempt shim adjustment.

Overview of the procedure (shim-under-bucket)
1. Remove components to gain access: engine cover, intake ducting, ignition coils/plugs, timing cover access as needed, and valve cover(s).
2. Rotate engine to TDC for cylinder 1 (align crank and cam timing marks per manual). You will take measurements with each cam lobe at its base circle (cam lobe pointing away from the bucket).
3. Use feeler gauge to measure clearance between cam and bucket. Record measured clearances for intake and exhaust for every cylinder.
4. Compare measured clearances to factory spec. For each valve out of spec, remove the cam or loosen cam caps per service manual to remove the valve bucket and extract the shim.
5. Measure the removed shim thickness with micrometer. Calculate replacement shim thickness with:
New shim = existing shim + (measured clearance − specified clearance)
(If measured clearance is greater than spec, new shim becomes thicker. If measured clearance is smaller than spec, new shim is thinner.)
6. Install new shim under the bucket, reinstall bucket and camshaft(s) using the specified cap orientation and torque sequence. Re-torque cam caps to spec.
7. Re-rotate engine to each valve base circle and re-check clearances to confirm correct values.
8. Reassemble all removed parts, install new valve cover gasket, reconnect battery, run engine and check for leaks/noise.

Step-by-step detailed procedure
1. Gather the service manual and read the valve cover/camshaft removal and cam cap torque sequence.
2. Remove engine cover and intake ducting. Remove ignition coils (mark coils/wires to keep cylinders in order).
3. Remove valve cover(s). Clean around the cover so debris doesn’t fall into the head.
4. Rotate crank to TDC cylinder 1 (use manual’s TDC marks). Confirm cam timing marks align. Lock cam(s) if a holding tool is required.
5. For each valve:
a. Rotate cam so that the lobe for that valve is on the base circle (not pressing the bucket). The base circle is the flattest part of the cam lobe.
b. Gently try to slide the appropriate feeler gauge blade between the cam lobe and the top of the bucket. The feeler should have slight drag; that blade is the measured clearance.
c. Record intake and exhaust clearances for all cylinders.
6. If all clearances are within spec: reassemble (use new valve cover gasket, torque to spec) and finish.
7. If any clearance is out of spec:
a. Note which valve(s) require shim change.
b. Mark cam bearing caps and camshaft orientation precisely (number each cap and mark alignment with head — caps must go back in the exact position and orientation).
c. Loosen cam cap bolts in the correct sequence and remove the camshaft(s) as required by the manual (some engines let you remove only the necessary cam or caps to access shims; others require full cam removal).
d. Carefully lift off the bucket. Use a magnetic pickup or small pliers; do not scratch the bucket or the valve stem top.
e. Remove shim from under bucket. Measure shim thickness with micrometer (to 0.01 mm).
f. Calculate new shim thickness (formula above). Round to available shim sizes; order the shim(s) if needed. Do not grind shims unless you have proper equipment.
g. Clean seating surfaces, place new shim into bucket, inspect bucket for wear, replace bucket if damaged.
h. Reinstall bucket and camshaft/caps in correct order. Tighten bolts in the specified step sequence to the torque value in the manual (do not over-torque).
8. After reassembly of cams/caps, rotate engine by hand at least two full revolutions and re-check valve clearances in base-circle positions. Recheck cam cap torque after initial hand rotation if manual instructs.
9. Replace valve cover gasket and reinstall valve cover. Torque bolts to spec and reconnect any removed components.
10. Start engine, listen for abnormal valve noise, check for leaks.

How to use specific tools
- Feeler gauge: Insert between cam lobe base circle and bucket top. Use gentle sliding motion; you should feel slight friction on the correct blade. Try adjacent sizes to confirm.
- Micrometer/caliper: Clean shim, zero gauge, measure shim thickness at edge (shims are thin — micrometer preferred).
- Torque wrench: Use the specified torque and follow tightening sequence (incremental steps often 50%, 100%).
- Magnetic pickup/pick: Used to retrieve dropped shims; always keep a small container and magnetic tray.

Replacement parts & consumables
- Shims: You will almost always need at least one or more new shims if any valve is out of spec. Buy an assortment kit or exact sizes based on calculation.
- Valve cover gasket (recommended).
- Cam cover bolts: replace if service manual says they’re torque-to-yield.
- Cam seals if they are disturbed or leaking.
- Cleaners and rags.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Not confirming engine uses shims vs hydraulic lifters — verifying saves wasted work.
- Working on a warm/hot engine — measurements must be cold (unless manual says hot).
- Losing or mixing cam caps or buckets — mark everything and keep caps in order.
- Incorrect camshaft/cap orientation on reassembly — always mark and follow sequence.
- Using wrong feeler technique — ensure cam lobe is on base circle and use correct blade.
- Dropping shims into the head — use a magnetic pickup; if dropped, remove head cover area and recover shim before turning engine.
- Using wrong torque values or sequence — always use factory torque and sequence; recheck after initial rotation if instructed.
- Not having the exact shim sizes available — order a kit before starting to avoid multiple disassemblies.
- Forgetting to recheck clearances after reassembly — always re-measure.

Final notes
- Exact clearance specs and torque values vary by engine year and variant — consult the factory service manual before proceeding.
- If you’re not comfortable removing camshafts or aligning timing, have a qualified shop do the job — incorrect timing reassembly can cause severe engine damage.
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