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Nissan Frontier Navara Terrano Hardbody D22 1997-2004 factory workshop and repair manual download

- Safety first (read before doing anything)
- Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, disconnect negative battery terminal, use quality jack stands under axle or subframe (not just a hydraulic jack), wear eye protection and gloves, keep a fire extinguisher nearby. Working under a vehicle and inside a gearbox is hazardous.

- What “synchro replacement” means (short)
- Replacing the synchronizer rings (brass/bronze rings), and possibly the hub/sleeve assembly, shift forks, and bearings inside the manual transmission so gears can match speeds smoothly when shifting. If synchros are badly worn you must open the gearbox and replace the worn parts.

- Symptoms that indicate synchro replacement is needed
- Grinding or growling when shifting into a gear (especially 2nd or 3rd)
- Need to double-clutch or rev-match to get gears to engage
- Gear pops out of gear or feels notchy/slow to engage
- Visible scoring or missing teeth on hub/sleeve or heavily worn bronze synchro ring on inspection

- Parts commonly required for D22 manual synchro job (what to buy and why)
- Synchronizer rings (brass/bronze) for affected gears — replace when worn; they are the friction surfaces that match shaft/gear speed.
- Hub and sleeve assembly (dog hub and sliding sleeve) if sleeve is worn, scored, or loose — required because worn sleeves fail to engage properly.
- Shift forks (and pivot pins) if bent or worn at contact pads — they position the sleeve; worn forks cause misshifts and rapid synchro wear.
- Needle/roller bearings (input/countershaft bearings) and thrust washers if worn — bearings support shafts and incorrect clearances damage synchros.
- Mainshaft/countershaft bearings, reverse idler components if inspection shows play or damage.
- Output/input shaft oil seals and gearbox cover gaskets — replace any seals/gaskets disturbed during removal to prevent leaks.
- Correct specification gear oil (API and viscosity per factory manual) — gearbox must be refilled after reassembly.
- Snap rings, circlips, shims (if specified) — often single-use or may be deformed on removal; necessary to maintain correct axial clearances.

- Basic tools you already likely have (each tool, what it is, and how to use it)
- Combination wrench set (open + boxed ends) — used for loosening/tightening nuts and bolts; choose correct size, turn with steady force, avoid rounding fasteners.
- Metric socket set with ratchet (1/4", 3/8", 1/2" drives) — same use as wrenches but faster; use correct socket to avoid stripping heads.
- Extensions and universal joint for sockets — reach recessed bolts; keep extensions straight when applying force.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) — prying small clips, removing covers; use correct tip for each screw.
- Pliers (slip-joint, needle-nose) — remove clips, hold items; use pliers appropriately to avoid damaging parts.
- Hammer (ball-peen) — light tapping to free stuck components; use with brass drift or soft-faced hammer to avoid damage.
- Punch & drift set (steel and brass) — drive out pins or gently tap bearings and shafts; use brass drifts against softer parts to avoid marking.
- Torque wrench (click-type, appropriate range) — essential to torque bolts to spec on reassembly; set required torque and tighten until the wrench clicks.
- Floor jack and jack stands — raise vehicle and support securely; never rely solely on jack.
- Drain pan — catch gearbox oil and other fluids.
- Brake cleaner / parts cleaner — remove grease and oil for inspection and assembly.

- Extra or specialized tools you will need and why (detailed)
- Transmission jack or second floor jack with wood block — required to support and lower transmission safely; transmissions are heavy and awkward. A transmission jack gives control; a second jack with block can substitute but is less safe.
- Clutch alignment tool / pilot bearing tool — if you remove the clutch to drop the transmission; aligns pressure plate to flywheel during reassembly.
- Gear puller / bearing puller set — remove gears, bearings, or synchro hubs from shafts without damage; necessary where components are pressed-on.
- Snap-ring (circlip) pliers (internal and external) — remove/install snap rings that retain gears/hubs on shafts; cannot be done safely without them.
- Hydraulic press or bench press (or access to one) — many shafts, bearings, and synchro hubs are pressed on and need controlled press force; hammering can damage parts.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base and/or feeler gauges — measure endplay and tooth engagement clearances; needed to confirm shimming and axial clearances to factory tolerances.
- Bearing puller sockets/drifts and seal drivers — for safe removal/installation of bearings and seals to avoid misalignment.
- Flywheel locking tool or large pry bar — to hold engine/shaft still when removing bellhousing bolts/quick-release parts.
- Shop manual or factory service manual for D22 — contains torque specs, shimming specs, exploded diagrams, and procedures; essential reference.
- Impact driver/wrench (optional but helpful) — frees stubborn fasteners quickly; use with caution to avoid overtightening on reassembly.

- Why the extra tools are required (brief)
- Press/puller tools prevent damage that hammering causes and ensure correct tolerances on mating parts.
- Snap-ring pliers are required because many internal rings are seized or under tension; wrong tool risks injury and broken rings.
- Transmission jack keeps the heavy gearbox supported and aligned for safe removal and reinstallation.
- Dial gauge and shop manual are required to ensure correct shaft endplay and clearances; incorrect clearance damages synchros immediately.

- Step-by-step procedure (high-level but detailed enough for a beginner to follow safely; follow factory manual for model-specific specs)
- Prepare workspace: clear flat area, gather tools/parts, have container for fasteners (label them), drain gearbox oil into pan, and disconnect battery.
- Remove driveline items: remove shift linkage, starter if blocking access, driveshaft or CV axles (leave hubs if engine-in-place), remove any wiring harnesses and sensors attached to the gearbox.
- Support engine as needed if transmission removal changes engine support points (use jack under oil pan with wood block or engine support bar).
- Remove transmission: unbolt bellhousing-to-engine bolts, support transmission with transmission jack, disconnect clutch linkage or hydraulic lines, lower transmission straight down to avoid binding.
- Clean exterior of transmission before opening to prevent dirt inside.
- Remove gearbox cover / endplate and drain residual oil; document bolt locations (lengths vary).
- Disassemble gearbox internals carefully: remove shift forks, selector rails, snap rings, hubs, and sliding sleeves. Keep parts organized in order and orientation for reassembly photos or labeling.
- Inspect synchronizer rings: check for worn or missing friction teeth, glazing or scoring, uneven wear. If teeth are worn flat or ring is cracked, replace.
- Inspect hubs/sleeves: look for wear at dog teeth, scoring, or excessive play of sleeve on hub; if worn or loose replace hub/sleeve assembly.
- Inspect shafts and bearings: check for axial play and radial play, pitted rollers, or roughness. Replace bearings if any roughness or play.
- Replace worn parts: install new synchro rings, hub/sleeve, bearings, snap rings, seals, and gaskets as necessary. Use press to fit bearings/hubs squarely; don’t hammer directly on shaft ends; use appropriate drivers.
- Measure and set clearances/shims: use dial indicator and feeler gauges where factory manual specifies endplay or gear engagement clearance. Install or shim according to manual.
- Reassemble shift forks and selector assembly; verify free movement and correct alignment; shift through gears by hand to check engagement and clearances.
- Replace all gaskets/seals and apply recommended gear oil; torque all bolts to factory spec with torque wrench.
- Reinstall transmission to vehicle: align input shaft with clutch (use alignment tool), raise transmission with jack, bolt bellhousing to engine to specified torque, reconnect linkages, driveshafts/axles, sensors, and wiring.
- Refill gearbox with correct type and amount of gear oil, reconnect battery, and test drive carefully to confirm smooth shifting. Recheck for leaks and re-torque if necessary after first run.

- How to use the key tools during the job (short practical notes)
- Torque wrench: set scale to specified torque, tighten smoothly until it clicks; do not “preload” or re-click—once clicked, stop.
- Transmission jack: center gearbox on saddle, strap it, raise slowly, and lower carefully while aligning to bellhousing; never let it slip free.
- Snap-ring pliers: compress or expand ring in steady action and remove into a small tray—rings can fly out.
- Hydraulic press: center component and apply pressure slowly; use appropriate adapters and supports so force is applied evenly to the part being pressed.
- Bearing/gear puller: position jaws evenly around part, tighten center forcing screw slowly; use penetrating oil and heat carefully if seized (avoid overheating nearby seals).
- Dial indicator: mount magnetic base solidly, zero on a known surface, move part through range, and record endplay against spec; small errors can ruin gearbox life.

- Common pitfalls to avoid
- Reusing worn sync rings or sleeves — leads to repeat failure.
- Not replacing seals/gaskets — leads to leaks and contamination.
- Incorrect shimming or endplay — causes premature wear and noisy gearbox.
- Improperly torqued bolts — leads to loosening or stripped threads.
- Rushing press/puller operations — can damage shafts/gears.

- When to seek a professional or machine shop
- If you do not have access to a press, transmission jack, or dial indicator, or you cannot confirm shims/endplay to specs, take the tranny to a transmission shop for bearing/hub pressing and measurement.
- If input/countershaft or mainshaft is bent or severely scored, professional replacement/straightening and precise machining is needed.

- Final practical advice (short)
- Buy a factory service manual for the D22 model you have — it contains exact exploded diagrams, torque specs, shim tables, and sequences that you must follow.
- Replace synchro rings and any badly worn mating components at the same time; partial repairs often fail quickly.
- Work clean: contamination from dirt or grit in the gearbox shortens life of new parts.

- Minimal safety reminder (final)
- If at any point you feel unsure or lack the proper tool, stop and consult a professional — a badly assembled transmission can cause dangerous failures on the road.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

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