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Kia Carnival / Sedona factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & supplies
- Floor jack + pair of rated jack stands or ramps; wheel chocks
- Safety gear: safety glasses, gloves, long sleeves, hearing protection, respirator (if cutting/welding)
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil)
- Socket set (metric), ratchet, extensions, breaker bar
- Torque wrench (in-lb/ft-lb)
- Oxygen-sensor (O2) socket or 22/23mm deep socket (depending on sensor)
- Exhaust hanger removal tool or large pry bar + hammer
- Reciprocating saw with metal-cutting blades or angle grinder with cutoff wheel (for seized bolts/pipe)
- Wire brush, flap wheel or grinder to clean flanges
- New exhaust gasket(s), replacement flange bolts/nuts or exhaust clamps, new rubber hangers if needed
- Anti-seize compound (high-temp) for O2 sensor threads (small amount)
- Safety stand-by: fire extinguisher, drain pan
- Optional: replacement pipe/muffler section, welding machine (MIG/TIG) and filler rod if welding required

Safety precautions (must read)
- Work on a flat, level surface. Chock wheels and set parking brake.
- Let exhaust cool completely (several hours). Hot metal causes severe burns.
- Support vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Protect fuel lines, brake lines, wiring and underbody from sparks when cutting/grinding.
- Disconnect battery negative if you’ll be doing welding or removing sensors to avoid shorts.
- Ensure good ventilation when cutting or welding; wear respirator.
- Follow emissions laws — do not remove catalytic converters unless legally permitted.

Step‑by‑step: remove and replace an exhaust pipe section on a Kia Carnival/Sedona
(Assumes replacing a section from flange/hanger to hanger or muffler. Adjust for full system replacement.)

1) Preparation
- Park on level ground, chock rear wheels. Let car cool.
- Raise rear/front as needed with floor jack and place on jack stands under rated lift points. Confirm stability.
- Spray all flange bolts, clamps and hanger pivots with penetrating oil. Let soak 10–15 minutes.

2) Protect & disconnect sensors
- Locate O2 sensors near the section. Unplug sensor harness connectors. Remove O2 sensor(s) with an O2 sensor socket; cap threads with rag or keep upright.
- Lightly coat replacement O2 sensor threads with high-temp anti-seize (do not contaminate sensor tip).

3) Support the exhaust
- Place a transmission jack, second floor jack or ratchet straps under the pipe/muffler to hold weight once bolts are removed.

4) Remove clamps/bolts/hangers
- Try loosening flange nuts and clamp bolts with breaker bar and appropriate sockets. Use heat (propane torch) cautiously if bolts won’t break free — keep away from fuel lines and wiring.
- If bolts are rounded/seized, cut through the clamp or bolt heads with a reciprocating saw or grinder. If cutting the pipe is necessary, mark a straight cut and cut slowly to avoid cutting into adjacent components.
- Unhook the rubber hangers using the hanger removal tool or pry bar. Work one side at a time while supporting the assembly.

5) Remove old pipe section
- Lower the supported exhaust assembly carefully and slide it out clear of the vehicle. Inspect flanges and mating surfaces; wire-brush rust and carbon.

6) Prepare mating surfaces & new parts
- Clean flange faces with wire brush or flap disk until flat metal shows.
- Fit new gasket(s) on flanges. Replace any rusted bolts/nuts and use new clamps/hangers as required. Always use new gaskets at flange joints — do not reuse compressed gaskets.

7) Fit the replacement pipe
- Lift the new pipe into position on the support jack. Slip it into the rubber hangers first (a small amount of soapy water helps slide over rubber).
- Align flanges, install new gasket between faces, thread bolts by hand to avoid cross‑threading. If using slip-on clamps, slide the clamp over the joint before joining.
- Finger-tighten hardware with bolts snug and clamps positioned properly, but do not fully torque yet.

8) Final alignment & torque
- Align the pipe so there’s no tension on hangers or contact with body/fuel/brake lines. There should be ~3–6 mm of clearance from heat shields/body panels.
- Gradually tighten flange bolts/nuts in a crisscross pattern to seat the gasket. Use a torque wrench to final-torque to factory spec (if you don’t have the spec, tighten evenly until snug and check for leaks — typical small flange bolts are in the ~25–50 ft-lb range; refer to service manual for exact).
- Tighten clamp bolts to manufacturer clamp torque spec or until the clamp crushes the gasket/joint and there’s no play.

9) Reinstall O2 sensor(s) and wiring
- Apply a little anti-seize to threads (if not pre-coated), install sensor(s) and torque to spec (do not over-tighten). Reconnect sensor electrical connector.

10) Lower vehicle & test
- Lower vehicle off stands. Start engine and check for exhaust leaks — feel for leaks at joints (careful of hot air) or listen for hissing. Use soapy water on joints (with engine idling) to find leaks (bubbles).
- Drive briefly and re-check hardware for loosening. Retorque if necessary after initial heat cycles.

How specific tools are used (short)
- Penetrating oil: soak bolts 10–30 minutes; repeat as needed to break corrosion.
- Breaker bar: apply steady force to break seized bolts; avoid sudden jerks that round heads.
- O2 sensor socket: 12-point or slotted deep socket that lets the harness Clear; loosen/tighten sensor.
- Hanger removal tool/pry bar: pry rubber hanger off peg; rotate tool to pop rubber off.
- Reciprocating saw/angle grinder: cut clamps or pipe when bolts are seized. Support pipe, mark cut, protect nearby components and cut slowly. Use low sparks near fuel and wiring.
- Torque wrench: final torque of flange bolts/clamps to spec. Tighten evenly.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Exhaust flange gaskets (always replace)
- Flange bolts/nuts or U‑bolt clamps (replace rusted hardware)
- Rubber exhaust hangers
- Pipe/muffler section (OEM or aftermarket), catalytic converter only if failed — check legal restrictions
- O2 sensors (if old or damaged)
- Exhaust sealant only if specified by part manufacturer (avoid using non‑exhaust rated compounds)

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Working on a hot exhaust — burns.
- Relying on a jack alone — use stands.
- Cutting too close to catalytic converter or O2 sensors and damaging them.
- Reusing old gaskets and clamps — leads to leaks.
- Not supporting the weight — causing damage to hangers/body or misalignment.
- Over-tightening clamps/bolts until threads strip; under-tightening causing leaks.
- Welding near fuel lines or wiring without disconnecting battery and protecting lines.
- Removing or bypassing catalytic converters illegally — check local laws.

Wrap-up
- Replace gaskets, hardware and hangers as needed. Use penetrating oil, the correct sockets and a torque wrench. Support the exhaust before disconnecting it. If bolts are frozen, cut and replace them rather than forcing. If you are not comfortable cutting/welding or dealing with seized hardware, have a shop do it.
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