Kia Carnival / Sedona factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: metric socket/ratchet set (1/4", 3/8", 1/2"), combination wrenches, breaker bar
- Impact wrench (air or 12V) or long breaker bar
- Torque wrench (range covering low to high torques)
- Ball‑joint separator / tie‑rod puller (pickle fork or side‑pull)
- Hammer and drift / brass punch
- Large pry bar
- Floor jack and 2 good jack stands (or 4 if you lift whole vehicle)
- Wheel chocks
- Hub/axle holding tool or large pry bar to hold hub while removing axle nut
- Slide hammer or hub puller (if hub is seized)
- Hydraulic press and bearing drivers (if pressing wheel bearing in/out)
- Bearing/hub installer kit (cups/drivers sized to bearing)
- Penetrating oil, anti‑seize, clean rags
- Bungee/zip tie to hang caliper
- Safety glasses, gloves
- New replacement parts: steering knuckle (OEM or aftermarket), wheel hub/bearing assembly (recommended to replace as a unit), new axle nut, new cotter pins (if used), new lower ball joint / tie rod end if damaged, new bolts/nuts if service manual calls for them
- Brake cleaner, threadlocker (as specified), grease

Safety precautions (must follow)
- Work on level ground, chock rear wheels, set parking brake.
- Loosen lug nuts before jacking. Support vehicle with jack stands under correct lift points; never rely on the jack alone.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Keep hands clear when using a press or hammer.
- Hang caliper — do NOT let it hang on the brake hose.
- Mark positions if necessary (steering angle, strut orientation) and perform alignment after repair.
- Get factory torque specs for your exact model/year from the service manual — do not guess critical torques (axle nut, strut bolts, hub bolts).

Overview of the job
- You will remove the wheel/hub/knuckle assembly, separate steering and suspension joints (tie rod end, ball joints, strut/knuckle bolts), disconnect CV axle from hub, remove knuckle, and fit a new knuckle or press a bearing into the old/new knuckle as required. On modern Kia Carnival/Sedona models the hub and bearing are often sold as a complete assembly — replacing the hub assembly is simpler and recommended over pressing bearings yourself.

Step‑by‑step procedure
1) Preparation
- Chock rear wheels, loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly.
- Raise vehicle with floor jack and support on jack stands. Remove wheel.

2) Remove brake components
- Remove caliper bolts, remove caliper and hang with bungee or wire (do NOT hang by brake hose).
- Remove brake rotor (may be retained by screws or corroded — use penetrating oil, gentle hammering on the face if stuck).
- Remove caliper bracket if needed to access knuckle and hub bolts.

3) Disconnect ABS/wheel speed sensor and other wiring
- Unplug ABS sensor connector and unclip sensor/lines from the knuckle.
- Inspect the tone ring — do not damage it.

4) Remove outer components
- Remove cotter pin and nut on tie rod end, separate tie rod end from knuckle using tie‑rod puller.
- Remove sway bar link if it interferes.
- Remove brake dust shield if needed (gives better access).

5) Separate the ball joint(s) (lower or upper depending on setup)
- Loosen nut on lower ball joint (or control arm ball joint) a few turns then use ball joint separator to pop joint loose. Support the control arm with a jack so the suspension doesn’t drop abruptly.
- If the car uses an upper ball joint on the knuckle (strut/upper arm type), separate that too. Keep nuts/bolts and note orientation.

6) Remove strut/knuckle mounting bolts
- Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts or nuts (some designs have the strut mounted to the knuckle with two bolts). Keep track of any alignment marks.
- Support the strut so it doesn’t pull spring energy onto you—don’t compress springs.

7) Remove axle nut and disconnect CV axle from hub
- Remove the hub/axle nut. Use an impact or a long breaker bar with hub holding tool to prevent rotation (apply parking brake or put a wrench on knuckle/someone to push brakes while loosening is not recommended — use proper holding tool).
- After the axle nut is off, separate the CV axle from the hub. If the hub is still mounted to the knuckle, you can push the knuckle inboard and pry the CV out of the hub. Use a pry bar or a soft‑face hammer to tap the end of the hub (not the CV) to free the CV. Protect the CV boot from sharp edges.

Tip: If the axle is stuck, pull the knuckle outward to expose the hub; use a hub puller or slide hammer on the hub if necessary. Don’t pry on the CV joint housing or boot.

8) Remove knuckle from vehicle
- With the CV axle separated and ball joints/tie rod removed, slide the knuckle off and out of the vehicle.
- On some designs the whole hub-bearing assembly remains bolted to knuckle — remove hub bolts if replacing hub separately.

9A) If replacing the knuckle with a new knuckle/hub assembly
- Transfer brake dust shield, ABS sensor, tie rod end brackets to new knuckle.
- If hub is separate and you purchased a new hub assembly, install it to the new knuckle per manufacturer procedures — clean mating surfaces, use new bolts if recommended, torque to spec.

9B) If reusing the knuckle and pressing the bearing/hub in/out
- Use a hydraulic press and appropriate bearing drivers. Support the knuckle on a cradle so only the bearing race is pushed, and press on the correct race (inner or outer) per bearing removal instructions.
- To remove bearing: press on inner race to drive bearing out of knuckle; do NOT press on the bearing seal or outer race only that will damage bearing. Use proper backing plates.
- To install new bearing/hub: align bearing squarely, use driver sized to bearing outer race and press until seated. Install snap ring if present.
- Clean and inspect sealing surfaces and tone ring. Use anti‑seize on mating surfaces if recommended.

10) Reassembly
- Refit knuckle to lower control arm/ball joint, push CV axle splines into hub (ensure splines align; some splines require slight force — torque axle nut after seating).
- Reinstall strut bolts/nuts and torque to factory spec.
- Reconnect ball joints and torque nuts, install new cotter pins where applicable.
- Reinstall tie rod end and torque.
- Reattach brake rotor, caliper bracket, caliper. Reconnect ABS sensor wiring.
- Torque hub/axle nut to factory spec (this is critical). If a crush washer is used or torque-to-yield nut is specified, replace nut with new.
- Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, torque wheel lug nuts to spec.

11) Final checks
- Double‑check all fasteners torqued to factory specs.
- Pump brake pedal to restore caliper pistons before driving.
- Test drive slowly and feel for noises/steering behavior.
- Get a professional alignment immediately — knuckle removal/replacement will alter toe/camber.

How the tools are used (brief)
- Ball‑joint separator: place fork between ball joint taper and knuckle, strike handle to break taper loose. Side‑pull or pitman arm style gently pulls without crushing boot.
- Hub/axle holding tool: engages hub teeth or rotor to stop rotation while you break axle nut free with impact or breaker bar.
- Press & bearing drivers: cradle knuckle so force goes through bearing inner or outer race according to removal/installation instructions. Use correct diameter driver to avoid pressing on seals. Support opposite side with a plate or V‑block.
- Slide hammer/hub puller: secure to hub bolts or hub flange, use controlled pulls to break hub free from knuckle when corroded.
- Tie‑rod puller: screw‑type or wedge to separate taper without damaging tie rod end.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Trying to reuse a seized hub bearing: most modern hubs are cheap enough and easier/safer to replace as an assembly. Pressing bearings without the proper press and drivers leads to damage.
- Damaging CV boot or splines: don’t pry on CV housing; protect the boot and slowly work splines free. Use penetrating oil on hub if corroded.
- Rounding axle nut or hub nut: use proper size 6‑point socket and correct seating; replace nut if damaged.
- Not supporting control arm: letting the control arm drop can overextend CV joints and damage ball joints.
- Forgetting ABS tone ring damage: inspect before reassembly. Hitting or bending it causes ABS faults.
- Using improper torque: Under‑torqued knuckle/strut/ball joints cause failure; over‑torqued studs/nuts strip threads. Always use factory specs.
- Reusing cotter pins or single‑use nuts where new ones are specified — use new hardware as required.
- Not performing an alignment: driving without alignment causes uneven tire wear and unsafe handling.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Steering knuckle (if bent, cracked, or worn)
- Wheel hub & bearing assembly (highly recommended to replace as a unit)
- Axle nut (usually single‑use)
- Ball joint(s)/tie rod end if the ball joint taper/mating surface was damaged during separation
- ABS sensor or clip if broken
- Fasteners that are specified single‑use in the service manual

Final notes
- For safety and reliable outcome, replace the wheel hub/bearing as an assembly unless you have the correct press and experience.
- Always refer to the vehicle’s factory service manual for exact bolt torques, sequence, and any special procedures for your model year Kia Carnival/Sedona.
- After reassembly, perform a wheel alignment before extended driving.

Done.
rteeqp73

A5HF1 Kia Carnival automatic transmission rebuild (Part 1: Disassembly) Kia Carnival A/T Rebuild This video shows the process on how to dismantle automatic transmission for Kia Carnival.

Kia Sedona ecu location (2004) a video demonstrating the location of the ecu unit in a Kia Sedona. This model is 2004 and later models vary.

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