Splitting the Tractor
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For Tractors manufactured after 1986. Covers the engines specifications only for the 230 Tractor AD3.152 engine, 240 tractor AD3.152 engine, 253 tractor AT3.1524 engine, 275 tractor A4.236 engine, 283,290 tractor A4.248 engine, 271,281 1004.40/42 low emission engine, 263 tractor 903.27T low emission engine. Note: does not include details on fuel system or air filter system.
About the Massey Ferguson 200 series
Massey Ferguson Limited is a major agricultural equipment company which was based in Canada, Ontario, Brantford before it was purchased by AGCO. The company was formed by a merger between Massey Harris and the Ferguson business farm machinery producer in 1953, creating the company Massey Harris Ferguson. However, in 1958 the name was shortened for the first time to coin the brand Massey Ferguson. Today the company exists as a brand name utilized by AGCO and remains a major dealer around the world
The firm was founded in 1847 in Ontario, Newcastle by Daniel Massey as the Newcastle Foundry and Machine Manufactory. The business started creating some of the world's starting mechanical threshers, first by assembling parts from the United States and eventually designing and building their own equipment. The firm was taken over and expanded by Daniel's eldest son Hart Massey who renamed it the Massey Manufacturing Co. and in 1879 moved the business to Toronto where it soon became one of the city's leading employers. The massive collection of factories, consisting of a 4.4 hectares (11 acres) site with plant and head office at 915 King Street West, became one of the best known features of the city. Massey expanded the company and began to sell its products internationally. Through extensive advertising campaigns he made it one of the most well known brands in Canada. The firm owed much of its success to Canadian tariffs that prevented the bigger US companies from competing in Canada. A labor shortage throughout the country also helped to make the firm's mechanized equipment very attractive.
Massey Ferguson developed a wide range of agricultural vehicles and have a large share in the market across the world especially in Europe. The company's first mass-produced tractor was the Massey Harris Ferguson TVO which was quickly replaced by the Diesel 20. In 1958 the MF35, the starting Massey Ferguson branded tractor (a Ferguson design) rolled off the factory floor. These tractors were massively popular and sold across the UK, Australia, Ireland and the United States.
From the mid-1970s and early 1980s came the 200 series tractor, which included the MF 230, 235, 240, 245, 250, 255, 260, 265, 270, 275, 278, 280, 285, 290, 298, 299.
Massey Ferguson 200 series Tractor factory workshop and repair manual
- Safety first
- Confirm your tractor has a gasoline/petrol engine (spark plugs) — many MF 200-series tractors have petrol versions but some use diesel/glow‑plug engines; diesel engines do NOT have spark plugs (they use glow plugs). If unsure, check the engine label or owner’s manual before proceeding.
- Work with the engine cold to avoid burns.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental sparks or engine start.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves; keep rags/combustibles away from the work area.
- Tools you need (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Spark plug socket (6-point, deep, 16 mm or 5/8" commonly) with rubber insert or foam collar
- Description: A deep socket sized to the plug hex with a rubber/foam insert that grips the plug so it won’t fall out.
- How to use: Fit the socket on the extension, push it onto the plug until the rubber holds the plug, then turn with the ratchet to loosen/tighten. Use careful, steady force to avoid cross-threading.
- Ratchet handle (3/8" drive recommended) and suitable extension(s)
- Description: A ratcheting wrench that allows you to apply torque and remove/install the socket in tight spaces.
- How to use: Attach socket+extension to ratchet; turn counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten. Use extension to reach recessed plugs.
- Torque wrench (3/8" drive, reading in Nm or ft‑lb)
- Description: Wrench calibrated to apply a specific torque; prevents over- or under-tightening.
- How to use: Set target torque (see manual or recommended values below), tighten plug until wrench clicks/indicates target. If you don’t have one, follow the hand-tightening guidance below.
- Spark plug gap tool / feeler gauge
- Description: Small tool or thin blades used to measure and adjust the electrode gap.
- How to use: Slide the correct thickness blade between electrodes; gently bend side electrode to achieve the target gap (do not press on center electrode).
- Dielectric grease (optional but recommended) or small amount of silicone grease
- Description: Non-conductive grease for the inside of spark plug boots.
- How to use: Put a small dab inside each boot to ease future removal and prevent moisture intrusion.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., WD‑40, PB Blaster) — optional if plugs are stuck
- Description: Oil that seeps into threads to loosen corrosion.
- How to use: Spray around the plug base, wait 10–15 minutes, then attempt loosening gently.
- Needle‑nose pliers or spark plug boot puller
- Description: Tool to grab and remove stubborn ignition leads without pulling on the wire.
- How to use: Grip the boot (not the wire) and twist/pull straight out; use boot puller or pliers carefully to avoid damaging wire.
- Wire brush or compressed air
- Description: For cleaning around plug hole.
- How to use: Clean debris from around plug so nothing falls into cylinder when plug is removed; blow or brush gently.
- Replacement spark plugs (see "parts" below)
- Description: New plugs matched to your engine spec (type, heat range, gap).
- How to use: Install new plugs as below.
- Optional extra tools that might be required
- Longer extension(s) or universal swivel joint: For hard-to-reach spark plugs.
- Distributor cap/rotor puller or small screwdriver: If you need to remove a distributor cap for access.
- Small magnet or flexible pickup: To retrieve a dropped plug or tools.
- Penlight: To inspect plug wells and boots.
- Parts and when replacement is required
- Spark plugs
- Why replace: Worn electrodes, cracked porcelain, heavy deposits, or incorrect heat range cause poor running, low power, hard starting, and high fuel use.
- What plug to buy: Use the exact plug spec from the tractor’s manual or bring an old plug to the parts store. Common brands: NGK, Champion — part number varies by engine. Don’t guess by tractor model alone; match engine code or old plug marking.
- Gap: Set to the engine specification (typical small petrol tractor range ~0.70–0.90 mm / 0.028–0.035 in). Check manual for exact value.
- Spark plug wires/boots or distributor cap/rotor
- Why replace: Cracked boots, arcing, corrosion, or high resistance cause misfires. Replace if brittle, cracked, or corroded.
- Ignition coil or points (older systems)
- Why replace: If new plugs/wires don’t fix misfire or weak spark, the coil or ignition components may be failing. Test/replace as needed.
- Step‑by‑step procedure (concise, safe technique)
- Prepare the tractor
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, remove key.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal.
- Clear area around engine and clean plug well with brush or compressed air.
- Access and remove plug wires/boots
- Grasp the boot at its base (not the wire), twist gently to break the seal, then pull straight off.
- Use a boot puller or pliers if stuck, protecting the boot with cloth.
- Remove spark plugs
- Fit spark plug socket with extension and ratchet onto the plug. Turn counterclockwise to break it loose.
- Remove slowly — the rubber insert holds the plug so it can be pulled out without dropping.
- If plug is stuck, apply penetrating oil around base, wait, then retry gently.
- Inspect old plugs
- Normal: light tan/gray insulator.
- Fouled: black, oily, or wet — indicates oil or rich mixture problem.
- Overheated: white blistering/erosion — wrong heat range or ignition timing issue.
- Damaged: cracked porcelain or eroded electrodes — replace plug.
- Prepare new plugs
- Check part number and thread type match the old plug.
- Set the gap with the gap tool to the engine spec.
- Apply a very light coating of anti‑seize to threads only if manufacturer recommends; many modern plugs are plated and DO NOT need anti‑seize — if you don’t know, skip anti‑seize.
- Put a small dab of dielectric grease inside the boot.
- Install plugs
- Start threading by hand to avoid cross‑threading. It should turn easily for several turns.
- Tighten with ratchet until snug.
- Final torque: use torque wrench to engine‑spec torque (typical small tractor spark plugs ≈ 20–25 Nm / 15–18 ft‑lb). If you do not have a torque wrench:
- For a new plug into an aluminum head: tighten by hand until snug, then 1/2 turn with the wrench.
- For a used plug: snug, then about 1/8–1/4 turn.
- Warning: these are fallback rules — over-tightening strips threads; under‑tightening leaks compression.
- Reinstall wires/boots
- Push each boot onto its plug until you feel/ hear a click and the boot seats fully.
- Replace coil/distributor cap if required.
- Reconnect battery and test
- Reconnect negative battery terminal.
- Start the tractor — it should run smoothly, idle normally, and have improved throttle response.
- How to know if you need extra tools or parts after testing
- Persistent misfire or rough running after new plugs
- Check wire continuity with an ohmmeter; replace wires if high resistance.
- Inspect distributor cap/rotor for carbon tracks or corrosion; replace if visible damage.
- Test ignition coil (special tool or shop help) — replace if weak.
- Hard-to-reach plugs
- You may need longer extensions, universal joints, or to remove components (air cleaner, manifold) for access.
- Quick troubleshooting guide from plug appearance
- Light tan/gray insulator: normal.
- Black, sooty dry deposit: plug fouled by rich mixture — check carburetion/fuel system.
- Oily plug: oil entering combustion — valve guide/seal or piston ring issue.
- White/over‑heated: too hot or incorrect heat range — check timing and plug heat range.
- Wet with fuel smell: flooding or injection issue.
- Final tips (short)
- Always carry the old plug to the parts store if unsure of the correct replacement.
- Replace plugs in sets (all at once) for consistent performance.
- Keep a record of plug type, gap, and torque for future service.
- Common values to verify in your manual (do these before final tightening)
- Exact spark plug part number/type
- Specified gap (mm/inches)
- Specified torque (Nm or ft‑lb)
End of instructions. rteeqp73
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