1) Safety & prep
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels. Let engine cool completely. Disconnect negative battery terminal. Wear eye protection and gloves. Have drain pan and shop rags ready.

2) Theory summary (quick)
- The heater core is a small radiator inside the cab heater box. Hot engine coolant is routed through its tubes; the blower forces air over the core so heat transfers from coolant → metal → air (conduction + convection). A thermostat and coolant flow control the temperature. Common faults: clogged core (reduced flow → no heat), internal leak (coolant in cab, fogging, sweet smell, low coolant), or collapsed hoses/blocked valves. Replacing the core restores coolant flow and a sealed heat-transfer surface so the blower can warm cab air again.

3) Tools & parts
- New OEM-compatible heater core and any gaskets/seals, hose clamps, coolant, basic hand tools (screwdrivers, sockets, pliers), hose cutters, catch pan, torque wrench, vacuum/pressure tester for cooling system (optional).

4) Depressurize & drain
- Allow engine cold. Remove radiator cap or expansion cap slowly to relieve pressure. Place drain pan under radiator or lower hose. Open radiator drain and drain enough coolant so heater hoses can be disconnected without large spillage (or drain all coolant if preferred). Cap hoses in engine bay to limit leakage.

5) Access heater box
- Remove cab/dash panels in order to reach the heater box. On MF3600 series that usually means: remove lower dash panels, center console and glovebox area, then the heater control linkages/ducts. Keep fasteners organized. If the cab floor or seat needs to be lifted for access, support it safely.

6) Disconnect heater hoses
- In the engine bay, locate the two heater hoses going into the cab firewall. Undo clamps, disconnect hoses from heater core pipes at firewall, and push hoses into engine bay to avoid more spills. Plug hoses if desired.

7) Open heater box & remove core
- Inside the cab, remove heater box cover or access panel. Note orientation of core and any foam seals/insulation. Remove retaining bolts/clips holding heater core. Carefully extract the core assembly from the box, watching for remaining coolant inside—keep pan and rags ready. Remove and discard old seals and any foam that’s damaged.

8) Inspect & prepare replacement
- Inspect heater box for corrosion, blockage, or broken ducting. Compare new core to old for correct fit and tube orientation. Replace all seals/gaskets and use new hose clamps. Clean inside the heater box and clear debris/obstructions from blower area.

9) Install new heater core
- Place new core into heater box in correct orientation with new seals. Refit any retaining clips/bolts and reassemble heater box cover. Reconnect any control linkages or ducting removed earlier. Make sure no pinched seals and that core tubes protrude correctly through firewall.

10) Reconnect heater hoses
- From the engine bay, push heater hoses back onto the heater core pipes through the firewall. Use new or existing clamps and tighten securely. Reinstall any firewall insulation you removed.

11) Reassemble cab/dash
- Refit dash panels, glovebox, console, and any removed components in reverse order. Reconnect battery negative terminal.

12) Refill & bleed cooling system
- Refill radiator/expansion tank with correct coolant mixture. Start engine with heater on high and circulate until thermostat opens. Bleed air from system by using bleed screws if present, or repeatedly run engine and top up coolant as trapped air migrates into radiator. Check for leaks at heater hose connections and firewall tubes.

13) Test
- With engine at operating temperature and heater blower on high, verify warm air from vents. Check under dash and in engine bay for leaks, and confirm coolant level holds. Road/operate tractor until stable temp and recheck.

14) How the repair fixes the fault (concise)
- If the core was leaking: replacement restores the sealed coolant path so coolant no longer escapes into the cab or out of the system; cabin fogging and low coolant symptoms stop.
- If the core was clogged/corroded: new core restores coolant flow through the core’s tubes and clean fin area for convection, allowing hot coolant heat to transfer to cabin air efficiently.
- Replacing seals and hoses removes leakage points and prevents air ingress (which reduces heating efficiency), so the whole heating circuit functions normally.

15) Final checks & disposal
- Pressure-test cooling system if desired. Dispose of old coolant and core per local regulations. Re-check fasteners, hose clamps, and cabin dryness after a few operating hours.

Done.
rteeqp73

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