Concise, ordered procedure with theory and how the repair fixes the fault. Follow manufacturer torque specs and lift/hoisting safety rules. If you’re not qualified, have a trained mechanic do this.

1) Theory — what the input shaft does and common faults
- Role: the input shaft carries engine torque through the clutch into the gearbox. It is supported by bearings and seals and carries splines that engage the clutch disc. Proper alignment, concentricity and undamaged splines/bearings are required for smooth engagement, accurate gear selection and leak-free operation.
- Common faults: worn or broken splines (clutch slipping/dragging or inability to transmit torque), damaged input-shaft bearings (noise, vibration, end-play), damaged pilot/bearing surfaces (poor clutch release), and seal failure (gearbox oil leaking into bellhousing). Replacing the input shaft removes the damaged mechanical interface and worn bearing/seal surfaces that are the root cause.

2) Safety and preparation (why)
- Park on level ground, block wheels, engage parking brake, disconnect battery. Use a rated hoist or axle stands to safely support tractor and transmission weight. Why: prevents injury and uncontrolled movement while separating heavy assemblies.
- Gather tools: service manual, hydraulic jack and stands, transmission jack, pullers, press or bearing driver set, dial indicator, micrometer, torque wrench, sealant as specified, new bearings/seals, new input shaft (OEM or correct spec), new pilot bearing, new clutch disc/pressure plate/release bearing (recommended). Why: many parts are wear-coupled — replace mating components to restore reliability.

3) Diagnosis confirmation (why)
- Confirm symptoms that point to input shaft: grinding/roaring from bellhousing, excessive end-play on shaft (measured), clutch slipping with intact plate, visible splines damage, oil leakage at bellhousing. Why: ensures you’re replacing the correct component rather than masking another failure.

4) Drain fluids and remove external connections (and why)
- Drain transmission/clutch housing fluid. Remove PTO driveshaft, prop shaft(s), linkage, speedometer cable, electrical connectors, hydraulic lines that prevent gearbox removal. Why: prevents spills and clears obstructions for transmission removal.

5) Access and separate the gearbox from the engine (and why)
- Remove hood/side panels and any protective covers. Support transmission with a transmission jack. Disconnect the clutch slave or linkage, remove clutch release mechanism components. Unbolt bellhousing-to-engine bolts and any crossmembers or mounts. Carefully separate gearbox from engine, lowering it on the transmission jack. Why: the input shaft is inside the gearbox; separation gives access to clutch and gearbox internals for shaft removal.

6) Remove clutch assembly and inspect (and why)
- Remove pressure plate and clutch disc. Inspect clutch disc splines for wear and pressure plate for hotspots or distortion. Remove pilot bearing/bushing from crankshaft pilot bore. Why: worn clutch disc splines will damage a new input shaft and pilot bearing failure causes poor centering; replacing them prevents repeat failure.

7) Access gearbox internals and disassemble to free input shaft (and why)
- Open gearbox housing as required (follow manual sequence). Remove any retaining circlips, bearing retainers, snap rings, bearing caps or adjusters that hold the input shaft and its bearings. Use pullers or press to remove bearings from the shaft if replacing. Note and mark orientation of shims/bearings for end-play setting. Why: the shaft is typically supported by inner bearings and retained by housings; correct removal lets you preserve measurement references needed for correct reassembly.

8) Inspect and measure components (and why)
- Measure shaft splines, keyways, journals and runout (dial indicator). Inspect bearing races and gear teeth on mating gears/synchronizers for wear or damage. Check housing bores for score or ovality and measure end-play. Replace damaged bearings, mating gears or housings if worn beyond spec. Why: replacing the shaft alone while reusing damaged mating parts risks immediate re-failure or poor gear engagement.

9) Install new input shaft, bearings and seals (and why)
- Press new bearings onto the new shaft per service manual orientation. Fit shaft into gearbox, install bearing retainers/snap rings, and reassemble gearbox components. Adjust bearing preload and input-shaft end-play using original shims or new ones to factory specifications. Install new output seals and bellhousing seals. Why: correct bearing preload and end-play ensure concentric rotation, prevent premature bearing failure and keep seals sealing — restoring quiet operation and correct torque transfer.

10) Reinstall clutch and mate gearbox to engine (and why)
- Install new or remachined pilot bearing, clutch disc and pressure plate; use alignment tool for concentric clutch alignment. Mate gearbox to engine, ensuring dowels/alignment are correct, and torque bellhousing bolts to spec. Reconnect linkages, shafts, hydraulics, electrics and mounts. Why: correct alignment prevents input shaft misalignment and clutch release problems; torque and correct fasteners keep assemblies secure under load.

11) Refill fluids and test (and why)
- Refill gearbox/transmission to specified oil type and level. Bleed clutch hydraulics if applicable. Start engine, run through gears with tractor raised (prop shaft disconnected if needed) to check for noise, smooth engagement and correct shifting. Road/field test under load to confirm no slipping, leakage, vibration or abnormal noise. Why: function testing validates repair; load testing reveals hidden misalignment or reassembly errors.

12) How the repair fixes the fault (summary)
- Replacing the input shaft removes damaged splines or fractured metal that prevented torque transfer, and replacing bearings/seals restores proper support and sealing. Correct end-play and concentric seating eliminate vibration and gear selection problems. Replacing mating components (pilot bearing, clutch disc, release bearing) and setting alignment prevents repeated damage and returns the driveline to correct mechanical geometry so the engine’s torque is reliably transmitted through the clutch to the gearbox.

Practical notes
- Always replace bearings and seals when replacing the input shaft. Measure runout and end-play; don’t guess shim thickness — use the service manual’s procedure. Use an alignment tool for clutch installation. Use OEM or equivalent parts for spline fit and heat treatments.
- If you find gear or synchronizer damage, input-shaft replacement alone will not cure shifting faults — damaged mating gears must be repaired/replaced.

End.
rteeqp73

Massey Ferguson 300 part 3 Service and running engine. Sweet sounding slant 6 In this video I go around and do some service on the unit. Show the engine compartment and running the engine.

MF 3600 tractor | Walkaround | FIMA | 2012 | Record We join Emily Padfield, Massey Ferguson Creative Services Manager to take a look at the low to mid hp range MF 3600 series ...

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