Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: ratchet + metric sockets (8–22 mm), extensions, combination wrenches.
- Torque wrench (range to at least 150 Nm).
- Seal puller / two‑jaw gear puller or thin hook screwdriver (for removal).
- Seal driver kit / correct diameter drift (brass/steel) or deep socket matching seal outer edge.
- Slide hammer with adapter (optional, for stubborn flanges).
- Punches, soft‑face hammer, small pry bar.
- Transmission jack or floor jack + good jackstands (and wood blocks).
- Drain pan, rags, brake cleaner.
- Replacement gearbox seal(s) (exact OEM part for D22 / Navara / Hardbody Terrano) — buy seals for the specific location (input, output, or transfer case).
- New gasket(s) or RTV for mating surfaces if removed.
- Gearbox oil of correct spec and quantity (consult manual).
- Gloves, eye protection, shop light, wheel chocks.
- Anti‑seize or light oil for reassembly and seal lip lubrication.
- Threadlocker (if manufacturer calls for it) and replacement bolts if any are damaged.

Safety first
- Work on a level surface. Chock wheels and block vehicle securely.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal if removing electrical connectors near gearbox.
- Support vehicle on jackstands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Gear oil is slippery and hot if recently driven.
- Ensure transmission is supported before removing any mounting bolts.

Overview of procedure
These steps cover the common method of replacing an output (drive flange) gearbox seal on the Nissan D22 family. If the seal is at the input/transfer case junction the procedure is the same idea but the transfer case/propshaft or bellhousing side will be removed instead. If you are unsure, get the OEM workshop manual and the correct seal part number before starting.

Step‑by‑step: remove and replace output shaft (rear) seal without full gearbox drop
1) Prepare
- Park, chock wheels, disconnect battery.
- Raise vehicle and support on jackstands. Ensure safe access to the gearbox and driveline.
- Place drain pan under gearbox and remove gearbox drain/fill plugs to drop fluid level and minimize spill. Drain enough so fluid won’t run out when the flange is removed.

2) Remove driveline components
- Remove rear propshaft or driveshaft bolts at the flange. Mark alignment if needed.
- If the seal is behind a CV/hub halfshaft (2WD or RWD with axle), remove the wheel, brake caliper (support caliper), rotor, and axle nut. Remove halfshaft from hub and slide out of gearbox (support axle).
- For 4x4 transfer-case output, unbolt and remove transfer case or disengage prop/shafts as necessary to gain access to the flange/retainer.

3) Access the flange or retainer
- Remove the retaining bolts or circlip that holds the output flange or seal carrier in place. Keep bolts in order.
- If there is a flange with a hub/retainer plate, unbolt it. Some setups have a retainer plate covering the seal — remove that first.

4) Remove the old seal
- Clean the area around the seal to prevent contamination entering the gearbox.
- Use a seal puller or small hooked screwdriver to carefully pry the seal out. Work around the circumference a little at a time so you don’t nick the bore.
- If the flange must come off to access the seal, use a puller or slide hammer on the flange splines (use vendor adapter) — support gearbox rear to avoid stressing mounts.

How the tools are used:
- Seal puller: hook the lip of the seal, and pull straight out while prying. For metal‑lip seals, use the jaws to grip and extract.
- Gear/Hub puller or slide hammer: mount jaws behind flange or use adapter plate. Tighten center bolt/adapter and draw the flange off squarely. Shock loads can free stubborn flanges.
- Seal driver / drift: select a driver or socket that matches the outer diameter of the new seal. Tap evenly around the circumference with a hammer until seal is flush with the housing.

5) Inspect shaft & housing
- Check the shaft splines and the journal where the seal rides for nicks, heavy scoring, or burrs. Light polish with very fine emery (600–1200 grit) only for minor imperfections. Deep damage requires replacing/reconditioning the shaft sleeve or bearing.
- Clean the seal bore of old gasket material, dirt, and oil.

6) Fit the new seal
- Verify the new seal orientation: the side with the spring (lip) faces the fluid (into the gearbox). The flat/outer face faces out.
- Lightly lubricate the inner lip with clean gearbox oil or assembly lube.
- Position the seal square to the bore. Use the correct diameter seal driver (or a deep socket that contacts the seal outer edge uniformly) and gently tap it in evenly until it is seated to the factory depth. Do not cock the seal.
- If a retaining circlip or plate is required, reinstall it now.

7) Reassemble flange/axle
- Refit the output flange or axle shaft. If the flange uses a taper or splines, align and slide on carefully — do not hammer the flange onto the seal surface.
- Replace any gaskets or O‑rings and apply RTV only where specified.
- Tighten flange/retainer bolts to OEM torque spec (consult factory manual). If a torque spec is not available at hand, tighten evenly to a reasonable torque and verify with manual ASAP — avoid over‑torquing.
- Reinstall driveshaft/halfshaft, brake components, and wheels.

8) Refill & test
- Refill gearbox to correct level and fluid type through the fill plug to factory fill level.
- Lower vehicle, reconnect battery, and start engine. Shift through gears (with vehicle stationary) or run at low speed to check for leaks.
- Retorque bolts after a short test drive if manufacturer recommends.

Alternative: full gearbox removal (if flange cannot be removed)
- If the flange is seized or access is impossible, you must support the gearbox with a transmission jack, disconnect crossmember, clutch linkage, starter, and drop the gearbox enough to remove the rear retainer and access the seal. This is labor‑intensive and usually not necessary for a simple seal.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Wrong seal orientation: always install the spring/lip toward the fluid. Wrong orientation = immediate leak.
- Damaging the shaft surface: don’t use sharp tools on the seal journal. If the journal is damaged, replacing just the seal will fail.
- Installing seal cocked or not fully seated: use an appropriate driver and hit evenly. Uneven seating causes leaks and premature wear.
- Reusing old bolts or washers: if torque‑to‑yield bolts or crush washers were present, replace them.
- Not cleaning bore: dirt or old gasket will stop the seal seating squarely.
- Overlooking companion parts: if the flange seal failed from a bad bearing or worn sleeve, replace bearing/sleeve at same time.
- Not refilling or using wrong fluid: use the correct gear oil and level — low oil causes damage.
- Not supporting the gearbox properly when removing flange or propshaft: gearbox can shift and cause injury/damage.

Replacement parts checklist
- Correct OEM gearbox seal for D22 (specify front/rear, gearbox model).
- Gaskets/O‑rings/retaining circlips as required.
- Gear oil (correct spec and quantity).
- Replacement bolts if any are corroded or torque‑to‑yield.
- Optional: axle sleeve or bearing if journal is damaged.

Final notes (short)
- Always consult the Nissan factory service manual for exact part numbers, torque specs, fluid types, and seal seating depths for the D22 gearbox variant you have.
- Work methodically, keep parts organized, and double‑check seal orientation and seating before final assembly.
rteeqp73

Full Frame Replacement Fun on an 2006 Nissan Frontier - Addison Auto Repair & Body Shop https://www.addisonauto.com Addison Auto Repair & Body Shop replaces a full frame on an 06 Nissan Frontier.

Nissan – Folding the Rear Seats This video is copyrighted material of Nissan North America, Inc. and should not be copied, edited, or reproduced without the ...

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- Scope & quick verdict
- Clutch release bearing (throw-out bearing) sits on the transmission input shaft and bears against the pressure plate fingers when you depress the clutch pedal.
- It is only easily accessible with the transmission removed — so expect a major job. Replace the bearing whenever the trans is out. Replace clutch disc/pressure plate if worn or if the bearing failed; inspect pilot bearing, slave/master cylinder, rear main seal and input shaft seal.

- Safety first
- Disconnect negative battery terminal to avoid accidental starter engagement.
- Use wheel chocks, and work on a flat, level surface.
- Never rely on a hydraulic jack alone — always use quality axle stands rated above vehicle weight.
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and protective clothing.
- If unsure at any step, stop and consult a service manual or professional.

- Tools you need (basic + why; how to use each)
- Floor jack (2‑ton or higher)
- Description: hydraulic jack with large saddle used to lift the vehicle.
- How to use: position under specified lift point (subframe or pinch weld); pump handle to raise. Use to initially lift vehicle; do not go under car supported only by this jack.
- Axle stands (pair, rated)
- Description: adjustable metal stands to support vehicle after lifting.
- How to use: after lifting with jack, place stands under strong chassis points and slowly lower vehicle onto stands. Confirm stability before working.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: wedges placed behind wheels to stop rolling.
- How to use: place behind rear wheels opposite the end you lift.
- Socket set (metric, 3/8" and 1/2" drive; 8–24 mm typical) with extensions
- Description: ratchet, sockets, and extensions for removing bolts.
- How to use: select correct socket size, attach ratchet, break loose bolts counterclockwise. Use extensions to reach recessed fasteners.
- Breaker bar (18–24")
- Description: long non-ratcheting bar for high-torque loosening.
- How to use: fit socket, steady stance, apply slow force. Use cheater pipe only if necessary and safe.
- Torque wrench (click‑type, 1/2" drive)
- Description: wrench that applies precise torque to fasteners.
- How to use: set desired torque, tighten until wrench clicks; use for final tightening of transmission, engine mounts, wheels, etc. Follow factory torque specs.
- Transmission jack (strongly recommended) or second floor jack + wooden block
- Description: supports and lowers the transmission safely.
- How to use: cradle the transmission on jack, ratchet straps to secure; lower slowly while guiding transmission out. If using a second floor jack, use wood pad and extreme caution.
- Why required: transmission is heavy and awkward; trying to lower it without proper support is dangerous and can damage parts.
- Clutch alignment tool (plastic/metal)
- Description: dummy input shaft that centers the clutch disc to the flywheel.
- How to use: insert through clutch disc into pilot bore while bolting pressure plate; remove after bolts are snug.
- Why required: without it, reinstalling the transmission onto the input shaft is very difficult.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Description: for prying, removing clips, and small fasteners.
- How to use: use appropriate tip and leverage carefully to avoid damage.
- Pliers (needle-nose and standard)
- Description: hold and remove clips, hoses.
- How to use: grip firmly and pull/rotate as required.
- Pry bar (medium)
- Description: metal bar for separating transmission from engine.
- How to use: use gentle leverage at bellhousing seam after all bolts removed; protect surfaces with thin steel or wood to avoid gouging.
- Hammer and punch
- Description: for persuading stuck parts (use sparingly).
- How to use: tap gently; avoid hitting machined surfaces.
- Flywheel holder or starter motor engaging tool / large screwdriver to stop flywheel
- Description: prevents engine from rotating while loosening flywheel/pressure plate bolts.
- How to use: use to hold flywheel when torquing/untorquing bolts; use carefully to avoid damage.
- Shop rags and brake cleaner
- Description: degrease parts and keep things clean.
- How to use: spray brake cleaner on surfaces, wipe with rag.
- Drain pan
- Description: catch fluids when disconnecting transmission (gearbox oil).
- How to use: position under gearbox drain or around input seal area as needed.
- Marker tape/labels and camera or phone
- Description: label wiring, linkages, and take photos for reassembly.
- How to use: mark components before removal; photograph as you go.
- Replacement parts & consumables (see parts section)
- Description: new release bearing, grease, possible clutch kit, seals, bolts.
- How to use: install as described below; use specified grease at contact points only.
- Optional but highly recommended: engine support bar or hoist
- Description: supports engine if engine mount must be removed.
- How to use: secure engine at lifting points while removing mount(s).

- Additional specialty tools that make the job safer/easier (why they’re required)
- Impact wrench (air or electric)
- Speeds removal of stubborn bolts; not required but saves time.
- Slide hammer/pilot bearing puller
- Needed if pilot bearing/bushing is seized and must be removed.
- Seal puller and installer
- For replacing rear main or input shaft seals properly.
- Torque angle gauge
- If any bolts require torque-to-angle spec.

- Parts you will likely need and why
- Clutch release bearing (mandatory when trans is out)
- Why: wear item; replacement is cheap insurance and prevents repeat job.
- Clutch kit (disc + pressure plate ± pilot bearing)
- Why: if mileage is high, clutch slipping, or visible wear on friction surfaces, replace the whole kit because labor is heavy.
- Pilot bearing/bushing (in crankshaft nose)
- Why: supports input shaft; often replaced when transmission is removed.
- Input shaft seal / gearbox output seals & rear main seal (inspect)
- Why: seals can leak; while accessible, replace to avoid later leaks.
- Throw-out fork/lever and pivot (inspect)
- Why: wear or cracked forks impair bearing operation — replace if damaged.
- Clutch/gearbox bolts (some are torque-to-yield, single-use)
- Why: some manufacturers require new bolts; follow service manual.
- Transmission fluid
- Why: will likely be drained/contaminated during job.
- High-temp grease (for contact points)
- Why: light smear on fork pivot and bearing sleeve; avoid over-greasing.

- Step-by-step procedure (high level, practical sequence; follow service manual for torque specs)
- Preparation
- Gather tools, parts, manual and a clean, well-lit workspace.
- Disconnect negative battery cable.
- Chock wheels; raise vehicle with floor jack; support on axle stands (securely).
- Remove engine covers, splash shield and wheels as needed for access.
- Access & disconnect
- Drain transmission fluid if body design requires it and catch in drain pan.
- Disconnect drive shafts/axles from transmission (note/mark orientation), or if 4WD remove transfer case bolts and driveshaft as required.
- Remove starter motor (unplug wiring and unbolt).
- Disconnect shifter linkage, clutch hydraulic line (if hydraulic) or clutch cable, speedo cable, reverse light switch, and any wiring attached to trans.
- Remove any heat shields or crossmembers obstructing bellhousing.
- Support engine & remove mounts
- Support engine with jack and block on oil pan (use wood pad) or use engine support bar/hoist.
- Remove engine mount bolts that tie down transmission if needed.
- Remove transmission
- Support transmission with transmission jack and strap.
- Remove bellhousing bolts (access pattern around bellhousing). Keep bolts organized and note lengths.
- Carefully separate transmission from engine; wiggle and use pry bar gently at bolt holes if necessary.
- Lower transmission slowly; ensure clutch disc comes free from input shaft.
- Inspect & remove release bearing
- With transmission removed, slide off the release bearing from input shaft (or remove from fork depending on design).
- Inspect bearing for roughness, noise, play or damaged housing.
- Inspect throw-out fork pivot for wear and the fork for cracking.
- Inspect clutch disc friction surface, pressure plate for hot spots, warping, or broken fingers.
- Inspect pilot bearing/bushing inside crankshaft.
- Inspect flywheel for scoring/hot spots — resurface or replace if damaged.
- Replace parts
- Install new release bearing: apply a small smear of specified high-temp grease only on the sliding surface where bearing rides on the input shaft, not on bearings surfaces.
- Replace pilot bearing if removed/needed (press in new with proper driver).
- If replacing clutch kit: use clutch alignment tool to center disc; bolt pressure plate down incrementally in star pattern to specified torque.
- Replace any seals/engine/transmission bolts as required.
- Reinstall transmission
- Raise gearbox on transmission jack, line up input shaft with clutch disc using alignment tool, and slide transmission straight in. Avoid forcing — if misaligned, re-check alignment or use alignment tool.
- Refit bellhousing bolts finger-tight first, then torque to spec in a cross pattern.
- Reinstall starter, shifter linkage, drive axles/shafts, crossmember, mounts, and any removed wiring.
- Refill transmission fluid to correct level and type.
- Final checks
- Reconnect battery.
- With car on stands, check clutch pedal engagement and free play; bleed clutch hydraulic if applicable.
- Start engine and test for unusual noises with vehicle safely supported; road test only when confident.
- Re-torque wheel nuts after a short drive.

- Common pitfalls & tips
- Always support transmission with a proper jack — dropping it can injure you and damage the trans.
- Label bolts and take photos as you progress — reassembly goes faster and safer.
- Replace clutch disc and pressure plate as a set unless you are certain the disc is like-new.
- Don’t over-grease the release bearing or contaminate the clutch friction surface with grease/cleaner.
- If the flywheel is glazed/damaged, resurface at a machine shop or replace.
- Use new bolts where manufacturer recommends; some are torque-to-yield.

- Final notes on parts selection for Nissan D22 (Frontier/Navara/Hardbody)
- Release bearing: buy OEM Nissan part or a quality aftermarket bearing specified for D22 2.4/2.5/3.0 engines (match engine and transmission VIN).
- Clutch kit: select kit sized for your engine and whether the vehicle is 2WD/4WD; brands: OEM Nissan, Exedy, Luk, Valeo are common.
- Pilot bearing and seals: match engine crank nose tolerance — get OEM or equivalent quality.
- If uncertain about exact part numbers, provide VIN to parts supplier or consult service manual for D22 engine/transmission combination.

- If you don’t have the specialty tools
- You can still do the job, but risks and difficulty increase:
- No transmission jack → use a second floor jack with wooden cradle, but this is less stable; exercise extreme caution and have an assistant.
- No clutch alignment tool → you can sometimes use a stiff screwdriver or improvised mandrel sized to the input shaft, but this is fiddly and risks misalignment; buy a cheap alignment tool.
- No flywheel holder → hold the flywheel using an assistant and brakes engaged, but this is awkward; a proper holder is safer.

- Closing (practical advice)
- This is a moderate-to-advanced DIY job for a beginner. Expect a full day if prepared; budget a weekend if learning as you go.
- Use a factory service manual for exact bolt locations, sequences and torque specs specific to your D22 variant.
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