Login to enhance your online experience. Login or Create an Account
Logo
Shopping Cart

Shopping Cart 0 Items (Empty)

Massey Ferguson 8100 series tractor factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & supplies
- New replacement shock absorber(s) specific to Massey Ferguson 8100-series (order by tractor VIN/model; replace mounting bushings and pins if worn)
- New mounting hardware: bolts, nuts, washers, split-pins or locking hardware (prefer OEM or grade 8 equivalent)
- Replacement rubber/metal bushings or polyurethane bushings (as required)
- Socket set, metric and imperial (deep sockets), ratchet and breaker bar
- Torque wrench (range to at least 200 Nm)
- Open-end wrenches
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Hammer and drift/punch
- Pry bar
- Floor jack or bottle jack + axle stands or heavy-duty jack stands (rated for tractor weight)
- Block(s) of wood to protect chassis
- Safety glasses, work gloves, steel-toe boots
- Clean rags, degreaser
- Anti-seize or light oil, thread locker (medium strength if specified)
- Hydraulic block/bleed tools only if shock is serviceable/hydraulic (most replacements are drop-in)
- Wire cutters or pliers (for cotter pins)
- Service manual or torque spec sheet for exact torque values

Safety precautions (read and follow)
- Work on a level, hard surface. Chock wheels on the opposite axle to prevent movement.
- Lower implements to the ground and disengage PTO. Put transmission in park or neutral and set the parking brake.
- Shut engine off and remove the ignition key. If working near electrical components, disconnect the battery negative terminal.
- Support the tractor securely: never work under the tractor or an unsupported axle without rated jack stands or blocking. Use stands on solid ground; do not rely on hydraulic jacks alone.
- Use proper PPE: safety glasses, gloves, and steel-toe boots. Beware stored energy in suspension — support the axle or cab before removing shock(s).
- If bolts are heavily corroded, heat/torch use can be dangerous — use correct technique and clear area of flammable fluids.

Parts required
- Shock absorber(s) specified for MF 8100 series (verify part number with dealer or parts manual)
- Replacement upper/lower bushings, sleeves, spacer tubes and mounting pins (replace worn hardware)
- New nuts/bolts/locking hardware if old hardware is corroded or bent

Step-by-step replacement procedure
1. Preparation
- Park tractor on level ground, chock rear wheels (or front wheels if working on rear shock), shut down, remove key, and disconnect battery negative if you’ll be under electrical components.
- Lower any raised implements to the ground so suspension is unloaded.
- Consult the service manual for exact shock locations and torque specs.

2. Access & support
- Identify the shock to be replaced (cab shock, front axle shock or chassis/implements shock). Some tractors have two shocks on the front axle and additional cab dampers.
- Remove any guards, panels or fenders blocking access (use sockets/wrenches). Keep fasteners organized.
- Using a suitable floor/bottle jack, support the mass that the shock controls:
- For front axle shocks: jack under the front axle or engine/weight frame and raise slightly until the axle is supported and the shock is not carrying load.
- For cab shocks: support cab with jack and a block or stand under a solid mounting point so cab doesn’t drop when removing shocks.
- Place jack stands or blocks under the tractor frame/axle so the support is mechanical — do not rely solely on hydraulic jack.

3. Prepare mount fasteners
- Spray penetrating oil on the shock upper and lower mounting bolts/pins and allow soak time.
- If there are cotter pins or safety clips, remove them with pliers or cutters.
- Loosen nuts while the shock is slightly supported by the jack so the bolt does not spin under load.

4. Remove mounting bolts/pins
- While axle or cab is fully supported, remove the lower mounting bolt/pin first (or upper first if space dictated — note orientation). Use breaker bar if required. If the bolt is a pressed pin, drive it out with a drift/punch and hammer.
- Support the shock as you remove the second fastener so it does not drop suddenly.
- Remove the shock from its mount. Inspect the bushings and sleeves; note the orientation and any spacer tubes.

5. Inspect mounts and prepare new parts
- Clean the mount surfaces, remove rust and debris with a wire brush and rags.
- Inspect mounting eyes/clevis for elongation or cracks — replace mount components if damaged.
- Compare new shock to old for length, mounting orientation, spacer sleeves and bushing sizes.
- Fit new bushings and sleeves into the shock eyes if required. Lightly coat sleeves with anti-seize or light oil; do not over-lubricate rubber bushings.

6. Install new shock
- Position the new shock in place. You may need to slightly compress or extend the shock to align holes; use the jack to shift axle/cab slightly for alignment (never pry the shock body into position).
- Insert new mounting bolt/pin through lower eye, through bushing/sleeve, and into mount. Fit washers and nuts as specified.
- Fit the upper bolt/pin similarly. Use new lock washers or threadlocker per manufacturer recommendation.
- Hand-tighten both fasteners first to ensure alignment. Remove the jack support slowly and allow the suspension to settle with the tractor weight on the new shock.

7. Torque fasteners
- With tractor weight on suspension and shock under normal load, torque upper and lower mounting bolts to the exact value listed in the service manual. If manual is not available, do not guess — improper torque can cause bushing damage or looseness. (Typical practice: torque to manufacturer spec; if replacing bushings, tighten sufficiently but do not preload rubber bushings.)
- Install cotter pins or locking hardware where required.

8. Reassemble & final checks
- Reinstall any guards/fenders removed earlier.
- Lower jack completely and remove stands, re-chock wheels as required.
- Reconnect battery negative terminal.
- Start tractor and operate suspension slowly through travel while listening for clunks. Take a short test drive at low speed and recheck fastener tightness after initial run (bolts can seat and require re-torque).
- Dispose of old shocks according to local regulations (oil-filled shocks may be hazardous waste).

How each tool is used (quick)
- Penetrating oil: spray and let soak to free rusted bolts.
- Floor jack/jack stands: lift and support axle/cab to remove load from the shock; always use stands/blocking for safety.
- Breaker bar: apply steady leverage to loosen seized bolts; avoid sudden jerks.
- Torque wrench: tighten mounting bolts to specified torque with tractor weight on the suspension.
- Drift/punch + hammer: drive out seized pins; protect mount faces with wood if needed.
- Pry bar: gently align holes when installing bolts (do not force or bend mounts).
- Threadlocker/anti-seize: use per parts manual—anti-seize on sleeves, medium threadlocker on bolts only if specified.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Working without properly supporting the axle or cab — can cause collapse and injury. Always use rated stands/blocks.
- Reusing worn bushings or sleeves — leads to premature wear and noisy operation. Replace bushings and sleeves with shock.
- Installing shock in wrong orientation — match original orientation (some shocks are valved for compression/extension direction).
- Over-tightening bolts with suspension unloaded — this preloads rubber bushings and causes binding and premature failure. Torque with weight on suspension.
- Reusing corroded or stretched bolts/pins — replace hardware to maintain clamping and shear strength.
- Not checking surrounding components — bent mounts or cracked brackets can ruin a new shock if unchanged.
- Failing to recheck torque after initial hours of operation — bolts can settle and need re-torque.

Notes and final tips
- Always confirm the correct shock part number for your specific 8100-series tractor variant and year. Cab shocks, front-axle shocks and implement shocks are different.
- If the shock is a serviceable hydraulic type (rare), follow manufacturer instructions for any bleeding or reservoir servicing; most replacements are sealed, drop-in units.
- Keep a service manual or manufacturer torque chart handy for exact torque values and detailed diagrams.

Do the job methodically: support, remove load, free fasteners, replace bushings/bolt hardware, install new shock, torque to spec with suspension loaded, and test.
rteeqp73

You Might Also Like...

Kryptronic Internet Software Solutions