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Massey Ferguson MF20 baler factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & supplies
- Basic hand tools: metric & SAE socket set, combination wrenches, screwdrivers, punches, drift, hammer (soft-faced & brass).
- Torque wrench (to manufacturers’ specs or typical 10–200 Nm range for small bolts).
- Snap‑ring (circlip) pliers.
- Bearing puller / gear puller.
- Arbor press or hydraulic press (for bearing/gear/hub install).
- Heat source (induction heater or propane torch) for hub expansion — use cautiously.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (measure endplay/backlash).
- Feeler gauges, calipers or micrometer.
- Bench vise with soft jaws.
- Cleaning solvent / parts washer, lint‑free rags.
- Seal drivers / soft mallet.
- Threadlocker (medium strength), anti‑seize.
- Replacement parts: synchronizer hub(s), blocker/friction rings, selector hub spring(s), bearings, seals, O‑rings, snap rings, keys, shift forks, gaskets, fasteners — OEM recommended.
- Lubricants: correct gearbox oil/grease per MF spec, assembly grease.
- Personal protective equipment (PPE): safety glasses, gloves, hearing protection, respirator for solvent.

Safety precautions (non‑negotiable)
1. Park baler on level ground, chock wheels, block PTO driveline and remove key from tractor. Lock out/tag out PTO.
2. Lower and support any raised components with rated stands. Never work under unsupported assemblies.
3. Depressurize hydraulics, secure all linkages.
4. Wear PPE. Avoid inhaling solvent fumes. Dispose fluids per regs.
5. Use proper lifting gear (chain hoist / engine crane) for heavy housings. Two-person lift for awkward parts.

Step‑by‑step repair procedure
Note: This is a general, practical rebuild for a gear/synchronizer assembly. Check MF20 service manual for specific part numbers and torque specs. Replace any part that shows excessive wear or damage.

1 — Preparation
- Clean area around synchronizer housing so dirt doesn't enter once opened.
- Drain gearbox oil into a clean container. Cap drains immediately after draining to avoid contamination.
- Photograph linkage and cable arrangements for reference.

2 — Access & external removal
- Remove covers, guards and drive chains/belts that conceal the synchronizer housing.
- Remove linkage/selector rods from selector arm — mark orientation.
- Unbolt and remove housing or cover. Keep fasteners in order.

3 — Disassembly (workbench)
- Place housing on bench. Remove snap rings, hub retainers and any external retaining plates.
- Use snap‑ring pliers to remove circlips. Remove selector hub and sleeves.
- Use bearing puller to remove bearings from shafts. Use press to push out bushes if required.
- Carefully extract gears and shafts. Keep components in the disassembly order and orientation.
- Inspect shift forks for wear or bent ends; mark their relative position.

How each tool is used
- Snap‑ring pliers: compress/expand circlips to remove retaining rings without marring grooves.
- Bearing/gear puller: attach evenly to a pressed-on bearing or gear and draw it off the shaft; use slow, even pressure to avoid shaft damage.
- Arbor press: install bearings/hubs squarely using correct adapter so force is applied only to the bearing race or hub shoulder, not the outer race.
- Heat (induction/torch): heat steel hub evenly to expand for a slip-fit onto a shaft; do not overheat seals or bearings; use controlled heating then cool naturally.
- Dial indicator: measure axial endplay and runout; mount base to a fixed housing and press indicator tip on shaft/hub to get readings.

4 — Cleaning & inspection
- Clean all parts in solvent. Blow dry with compressed air (keep away from eyes).
- Inspect key areas:
- Blocker/friction rings: look for glazing, cracks, broken teeth or excessive wear on contact surfaces.
- Synchronizer hub splines and sleeve: check for rounded splines, burrs, heat discoloration.
- Gears: check teeth for chips or pitting.
- Shafts: inspect for scoring, wear on splines, keyways.
- Bearings: check for roughness or play.
- Seals: check for hardening or cuts.
- Measure wear against service limits (in manual). If no manual, replace worn rings, bearings, seals, and any gear with significant damage.

5 — Parts replacement
- Replace: all blocker (friction) rings if glazed or worn; bearings and seals as matter of course; any damaged hubs, sleeves, keys, fork or springs.
- Use OEM parts for correct fit and materials. Do not mix different ring materials.

6 — Reassembly (bench)
- Lightly coat splines with assembly grease or as manual specifies.
- Install bearings using press and appropriate driver; press only on the correct bearing race.
- Fit new blocker rings into hub in correct orientation (friction surface faces gear; many rings have chamfers — follow marking).
- Install selector hub and sleeve; ensure splines engage smoothly.
- Reinstall snap rings and retainers; use threadlocker on critical bolts where specified.
- Adjust endplay: use feeler gauges/dial indicator to set axial clearance to spec; fit shims if required.
- Check free movement: sleeve should slide and engage smoothly without binding; hub should index with selector.

7 — Bench testing
- Manually cycle selector to confirm engagement and that synchromesh action is present — the sleeve should synchronize and lock without excessive force.
- Measure backlash/runout; ensure no excessive play.
- Ensure all circlips and retainers are fully seated.

8 — Reinstall into baler
- Clean mating surfaces and fit new gaskets/sealants.
- Bolt housing to frame, torque bolts to spec.
- Reconnect selector linkage with marked orientation and inspect when torqueing so no binding occurs.
- Refit guards, chains, drives.

9 — Fill & run‑in
- Fill gearbox with correct oil to the required level.
- Rotate assembly by hand to distribute lubricant before first start.
- Start tractor, engage PTO at low speed, observe for leaks, abnormal noises, vibration.
- Conduct four to eight low‑load cycles, then stop and re‑torque fasteners if necessary, check oil level again.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing worn blocker rings: reduces synchronization and causes grinding. Replace rings whenever disassembled.
- Incorrect orientation of rings/hub: leads to non‑engagement — mark parts or take photos before disassembly.
- Using excessive force when installing bearings: damages races and shortens life. Use correct press drivers and support.
- Not replacing seals: leads to contamination and premature failure. Fit new seals and O‑rings.
- Improper heating of hubs: overheating can change temper of steel or damage hard coatings; heat gently and evenly.
- Missing or improperly seated snap rings: allows hub movement causing catastrophic failure. Verify full seating in groove.
- Insufficient cleaning: contamination causes rapid wear. Clean thoroughly and avoid breathing solvent.
- Using wrong lubricant: leads to poor synchronizer performance; use manufacturer‑recommended oil/grease.
- Incorrect torque or missed shims: causes endplay/backlash issues. Use dial indicator and manual specs.

When to replace instead of repair
- Cracked gears, broken hub teeth, deep spline wear, or bearing bores out of round — replace entire synchronizer assembly or gearbox input components.

Quick checklist before finishing
- New blocker rings and bearings installed.
- Seals replaced; housing surfaces clean.
- Endplay/backlash set to spec.
- Linkage free-moving and correctly adjusted.
- Gearbox oil level correct and no leaks.
- Test run under light load, recheck after warm-up.

End.
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