Tools & parts (engine valve-spring job)
- Valve spring compressor (in-head type for overhead valves or external lever type). If head is off, use bench compressor.
- 1/4–3/8" socket set, torque wrench, breaker bar.
- Screwdrivers, pliers, magnetic pickup, small picks.
- Feeler gauges, straight edge, dial indicator or vernier caliper (to measure installed height).
- Valve stem seal installation tool or small socket, valve lapping tool & compound (if re-seating valves).
- Soft-faced hammer, shop rags, parts tray.
- Replacement parts: valve springs (exact OEM spec), retainers, collets/keepers (always replace if any wear), valve stem seals (strongly recommended), head gasket (if head removed), pushrod/rocker hardware if worn.
- Optional: valve spring tester, solvent/degreaser.

Safety first
- Work on cold engine. Disconnect tractor battery and remove ignition/kill wiring if fitted. Make sure PTO driveline is disconnected and baler/tractor cannot move.
- Block wheels, set PTO to neutral and chock the baler/tractor so it can’t roll.
- Relieve system pressure for any hydraulic work (see hydraulic section).
- Eye protection and gloves. Keep fingers clear when compressing springs — compressed springs store a lot of energy.

Step-by-step — removing & replacing engine valve springs (typical OHV/flathead small engine used with balers)
1. Preparation
- Remove valve cover and any accessories blocking access (air cleaner, fuel lines as needed). Label and containerize fasteners.
- Remove spark plug(s) to make rotation easy and prevent accidental compression ignition; leave plugs out.
- Rotate the engine by hand to ensure cylinder you work on is at TDC on the compression stroke for the valves you want to remove (keeps valves closed if you’re removing one at a time). If removing all springs or head off, you don’t need TDC for each.

2. Mark and organize
- If the engine has pushrods/rockers, mark location so they go back exactly the same place. Lay parts in order.

3. Install valve spring compressor
- Use the in-head compressor: position the compressor cup over the retainer and align the compressor foot on the cylinder head. Tighten the unit so it contacts the retainer plate.
- Slowly turn the compressor to compress the spring until the keeper seats are exposed enough to remove.

4. Remove keepers/retainers & springs
- Use a small magnetic pickup or pick to remove the two (or single) valve keepers/locks from the valve stem groove. Keepers are easy to drop — work over a tray.
- Slowly relieve compressor pressure enough to lift out the retainer and spring. Remove valve spring and inner seats if present.
- Inspect keepers and retainers. Replace any with chips, pitting, or wear.

5. Replace valve stem seal (recommended)
- Remove old valve stem seal with pliers. Clean valve stem and guide area.
- Install new stem seal by pressing it down squarely with a seal tool or small socket until fully seated.

6. Inspect valves & seats
- Inspect valve face, seat, and stem for wear. If needed, remove valve and lap or replace. If head was removed, check guides and seats more thoroughly.

7. Install new spring & retainer
- Place the spring, any inner seats, and the retainer in position.
- Compress with the valve spring compressor until the keeper groove is exposed.
- Drop in the keepers (one or two halves) with a magnet/pick, ensure they fully seat in the groove. Verify keepers sit squarely.
- Slowly release compressor and ensure retainer pulls down evenly onto keepers.

8. Measure & verify
- Measure installed spring height and compare to OEM spec. If you don’t have the spec, compare to old spring height; mismatched or sagging springs indicate replacement needed.
- If you have a spring tester, check free and compressed spring pressures to spec.
- Manually rock the valve to ensure it’s held and the keepers are seated.

9. Reassemble
- Refit pushrods/rockers in original locations. Set valve lash/clearance per engine spec (cold). Torque any rocker or head bolts to manufacturer spec and sequence if head removed.
- Reinstall valve cover, gaskets, spark plugs, and accessories. Reconnect battery/ignition.

10. Test
- Turn engine by hand to ensure no valve-to-piston contact.
- Start engine, listen for unusual noise, recheck valve lash after warm-up if required by the spec.

How the valve spring compressor is used (practical points)
- Positioning: Cup or adapter must sit square on the retainer; compressor foot must bear solidly on head or valve guide boss. If off-center, retainers can cock and keepers can shear.
- Compression: Turn slowly and steadily. Do not use impact tools. Keep hands clear of keeper pockets.
- Keeper install: Use a magnetic pickup/needle-nose to fish keepers in; drop one on each side and let them seat. Lightly rock compressor to align if they don’t seat. Never rely on the keepers to be held by your fingers while you release tension.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Losing keepers: Work over a parts tray; do the job in small, contained space. Use a magnet/pick.
- Mixing pushrods/rockers: Label and reinstall in same order. Mismatched parts can change valve timing/clearance.
- Using wrong springs: Match free length and installed height and spring rate to OEM. Wrong springs can cause valve float or breakage.
- Not replacing valve stem seals: Old seals cause oil burning and deposit build-up.
- Releasing compressor too fast: Can send keepers flying and damage valve or head — release slowly.
- Not checking valve-to-piston clearance: If timing or head work changed, check clearance to avoid catastrophic contact.
- Reusing weak retainers/keepers: They are cheap compared to a valve dropped into the head — replace if any sign of wear.
- Not depressurizing hydraulics (if working on hydraulic valves): see below.

Optional — hydraulic valve springs (if MF20 baler hydraulic control valves are meant)
- Safety: Shut off tractor, lower all implements to ground, relieve hydraulic pressure at the pump or by operating controls with engine off until pressure drops. Block wheels.
- Remove valve bank cover/manifold. Label hoses and lines; cap them to prevent contamination.
- Remove retaining bolts and slide out spool. Observe spring orientation and note any shims.
- Remove and replace spring(s) and spool seals (O-rings, U-cups). Clean bore and apply light hydraulic fluid before assembly.
- Reassemble: install spool and spring, torque bolts to spec, reconnect lines, start engine and cycle controls to purge air. Check for leaks.

Replacement parts required
- Always replace valve stem seals when springs are out.
- Replace keepers/retainers if any wear. Replace springs if sagged, cracked or if specs differ from OEM.
- If head is removed, use a new head gasket and follow correct torque sequence/specs.
- For hydraulic valves: replace O-rings/seals and springs if set is weakened or corroded.

Final notes
- Consult the MF20 service manual for exact torque values, installed spring heights, and valve clearance specs. If you don’t have the book, get OEM replacement springs by part number — aftermarket spring specs can vary.
- If any valve scoring, guide wear, or seat damage is found, consider professional machine shop work.

No extra commentary.
rteeqp73

Massey-Ferguson MF37 tractor (French version MF35x) hay making This ultimate piece of quality equipment from 1963, is still doing it daily tasks. Amaaaaaaaaaaazing! It has all the basic tractor ...

FORDSON DIESEL MAJOR AND MF 20-8 BALER OLD TRACTORS 26: Fordson Diesel Major working in wheat straw in Suffolk with a Massey Ferguson 20-8 baler in August 2021.

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