- Safety first (must do before any work)
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and dust mask; brake dust can be harmful.
- Work on a flat, level surface and engage parking brake. Chock wheels opposite the corner you’re lifting.
- Never rely on the jack alone to hold the vehicle; always use properly rated jack stands.
- Keep a fire extinguisher nearby when using penetrating oil or heat.

- Quick overview of what you are doing and why
- You are removing the wheel, removing the brake caliper and caliper bracket (or sliding caliper), taking the old rotor off the hub, cleaning the hub, installing a new rotor, reinstalling bracket/caliper with new or existing pads, and torqueing everything to spec.
- Replace rotors when they are warped (vibration while braking), scored deeply, cracked, or below the minimum thickness specified by the manufacturer. Replace pads whenever you fit new rotors.

- Common replacement parts you may need and why
- Brake rotor (disc): Replace if warped, cracked, scored, or thinner than minimum thickness. New rotor gives even braking and prevents pulsation/vibration.
- Brake pads: Replace at the same time as rotors for proper bed-in and even wear. Old pads can bed to the old rotor profile and cause noise or uneven contact.
- Caliper slide pins or guide bolts and rubber boots: Replace or lubricate if seized or corroded to ensure caliper moves freely.
- Caliper hardware / anti-rattle clips: Replace if bent, corroded, or missing; they keep pads aligned and quiet.
- Brake fluid (if bleeding needed): Replace or top up if low or contaminated; bleeding may be required if caliper is removed and pistons compressed.
- Rotor retaining screw (if broken or stripped) or wheel hub studs (if damaged): Replace if necessary.
- Brake pad shims and grease: New shims and high-temperature brake grease improve noise control and movement.
- Wheel bearings or hub assembly: Replace if you detect excessive play, noise, or binding when wheel is spun before installing rotors.

- Tools you should have (each described and how to use)
- Hydraulic floor jack
- Purpose: Lift the vehicle safely.
- Use: Position under approved lifting point for your Toyota. Pump handle until car is raised high enough for jack stands. Never rely on it as sole support.
- Jack stands (pair)
- Purpose: Safely support vehicle after lifting.
- Use: Set to rated height, position under pinch weld or lift point, lower vehicle onto stands gently from the jack.
- Wheel chocks
- Purpose: Prevent vehicle roll.
- Use: Place behind or in front of wheels remaining on ground.
- Lug wrench or breaker bar with appropriate socket
- Purpose: Break loose wheel lug nuts.
- Use: Turn counterclockwise with steady force. Use breaker bar if tight. Loosen while car is still on ground for safety.
- Socket set and ratchet (including deep sockets for wheel nuts if needed)
- Purpose: Remove caliper bolts, bracket bolts and possibly hub/axle nuts.
- Use: Select correct size, turn ratchet counterclockwise to loosen bolts; clockwise to tighten.
- Torque wrench (click-type preferred)
- Purpose: Re-torque lug nuts, caliper/bracket bolts to manufacturer specs.
- Use: Set desired torque value; tighten until click, then stop. Critical for wheel safety and brake function.
- C-clamp or dedicated brake caliper piston tool
- Purpose: Retract caliper piston to make room for new thicker pads/rotor.
- Use: Place C-clamp over caliper and press piston back slowly using an old pad as a brace; don’t damage piston boot. Axial or multi-spline tools may be needed for some rear calipers with integrated parking brakes.
- Allen/hex, Torx, or hex-socket bits
- Purpose: Many caliper sliders or rotor set screws use these. Torx commonly used for rotor retaining screws.
- Use: Press straight in and turn with T-handle or ratchet adapter. Apply penetrating oil first if corroded.
- Screwdrivers and pry bar
- Purpose: Gently pry caliper off pads or free stuck components.
- Use: Use flat screwdriver to lever caliper off bracket or remove pad clips. Pry bar for stubborn rotors—tap carefully.
- Rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer
- Purpose: Free a stuck rotor from hub without damaging it.
- Use: Give several blows to the rotor face near the hub to break corrosion. Avoid hitting hub threads or studs.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD-40 specialist, etc.) and wire brush
- Purpose: Loosen rusted bolts and clean hub mating surface.
- Use: Soak rusty bolts/screws, let sit, scrub hub with wire brush to remove corrosion and ensure rotor sits flush.
- Brake cleaner and rags
- Purpose: Clean rotors, caliper, and hub; remove grease and brake fluid.
- Use: Spray parts and wipe with rag; avoid skin contact with brake cleaner and ventilate area.
- Micrometer or vernier caliper (disc thickness gauge) — recommended
- Purpose: Measure rotor thickness against spec to decide replacement.
- Use: Measure at several points near the braking surface; compare to minimum thickness stamped on rotor or in service manual.
- Flat-faced hammer or small sledge (optional)
- Purpose: For stubborn rotors or hub assemblies; use carefully.
- Use: Short, controlled blows. Don’t strike bearing/hub directly.
- Impact driver or electric impact wrench (optional but helpful)
- Purpose: Remove stubborn lug nuts, caliper bolts, or rotor screws quickly.
- Use: Use correct socket/bit; ensure battery charged or compressor/air tool ready. Not required but speeds work.
- Brake bleeder kit or clear tubing and container (if bleeding required)
- Purpose: Remove air from brake lines after caliper work.
- Use: Connect tubing to bleeder nipple, open valve, pump pedal slowly or use vacuum bleeder to pull fluid through until clean fluid appears.
- Anti-seize compound and thread locker (medium strength)
- Purpose: Prevent future corrosion on rotor-to-hub surface and keep bolts secure.
- Use: Lightly coat hub mating surface with anti-seize. Use thread locker where recommended (not on wheel studs/lugs).

- Extra tools that may be required and why
- Hub nut socket or axle tool
- Reason: Some models require removal of axle/hub nut to remove rotor or hub. Needed if rotor is pressed over hub assembly or if hub must come off.
- Heat source (propane torch) or oxygen/acetylene (for extreme corrosion)
- Reason: Apply heat around hub to expand metal and free stuck rotor or screws. Use with extreme caution due to fire risk.
- Bolt extractor set
- Reason: For stripped or rounded screws/bolts.
- Slide hammer or puller
- Reason: If rotor is seized on hub and cannot be removed with mallet strikes.
- Replacement wheel studs or hub assembly
- Reason: If studs are damaged during removal or corroded excessively.

- Step-by-step procedure (bullets, assume front or rear disc setup; consult manual for model-specific items)
- Prepare vehicle: loosen lug nuts slightly while car is on ground, jack up car at correct lift point, support with jack stands, and remove wheel.
- Inspect the brake assembly visually for obvious damage, leaks, or seized hardware.
- Remove caliper:
- Locate caliper bolts or pins and remove them with correct socket or hex/Allen bit. Support the caliper with a hanger or bungee—do not let it hang by the brake hose.
- If caliper is seized, apply penetrating oil to bolts and tap with a hammer to break corrosion; use an impact driver if available.
- Remove brake pads and anti-rattle clips:
- Slide pads out and set aside or discard if replacing.
- Note pad orientation and hardware location.
- Remove caliper bracket if necessary:
- Some jobs require removing the half-bracket to access the rotor. Remove mounting bolts and set bracket aside.
- Remove rotor:
- If rotor is held by a small screw, remove it with the correct screwdriver/bit. Apply penetrating oil and let it soak if stuck.
- If rotor is stuck from corrosion, use a wire brush around hub, hit the rotor face with a rubber mallet near the hub in several spots, and work it free.
- For very stubborn rotors, remove hub nut or use puller/heat as needed.
- Clean hub mating surface:
- Use wire brush to remove rust and debris until surface is flat and clean. Ensure rotor will seat flush.
- Measure rotor thickness (if reusing old rotor):
- Use caliper/micrometer to measure thickness at multiple points. Replace rotor if below minimum spec or if runout/warpage observed.
- Install new rotor:
- Clean protective oil film off new rotor with brake cleaner.
- Slide rotor onto hub; if it is tight, gently tap to seat it.
- Replace rotor retaining screw if present (use thread locker if required by manufacturer).
- Reinstall caliper bracket and torque bolts:
- Clean bolt threads; apply anti-seize to threads if recommended. Tighten to manufacturer torque with torque wrench.
- Compress caliper piston:
- Use C-clamp or piston tool with an old pad as backing to press piston fully back into caliper. For rear parking brake integrated pistons, use the rotating piston tool if required.
- Install new pads and hardware:
- Place new anti-rattle clips/shims and pads into position. Apply thin layer of high-temp brake grease on pad contact points (not on friction surface).
- Reinstall caliper and torque bolts:
- Slide caliper over pads/rotor and reinstall bolts. Torque to specification.
- Reinstall wheel and lug nuts:
- Hand-tighten lugs, lower vehicle slightly so tire touches ground, and torque lugs in a star pattern to proper torque value with torque wrench.
- Test and bed-in pads:
- Before driving at speed, pump brake pedal until firm to reset piston position. Perform gentle stops at low speed to bed pads to rotors for first few miles.
- If bleeding required: bleed brake line until no air remains using a helper or vacuum bleeder. Check brake fluid level and top up with correct DOT fluid.

- How to tell if parts must be replaced now
- Rotor: replace if thickness < minimum stamped on rotor/service manual, visible deep grooves, cracks, or you feel brake pedal pulsation/vibration during braking.
- Pads: replace if friction material < about 3 mm or if metal wear indicator is contacting rotor or you hear squeal/metallic grinding.
- Caliper: replace or rebuild if piston is seized, leaking brake fluid, or slide pins are severely corroded and cannot be freed.
- Hardware: replace any rusted, bent, or missing clips, pins, boots, or screws.

- Common problems and quick remedies
- Rotor won’t come off: spray penetrating oil, hit rotor near hub with a rubber mallet, remove rotor screw, use puller or heat if required.
- Stuck caliper bolts: apply penetrating oil, use correct size bit, heat lightly if needed, use impact driver if safe.
- Brake pedal soft after reassembly: likely air in system—bleed brakes properly before driving.

- Disposal and final checks
- Dispose of old brake fluid, pads, and rotors according to local regulations.
- Double-check all torque values, ensure no tools left in engine bay or wheel wells, check brake fluid reservoir level.
- Test drive at low speed in a safe area and perform repeated moderate stops to ensure brakes function and bed-in properly.

- Final safety reminder (do this every time)
- If anything feels insecure, you do not have the right tools, or caliper/hub condition is beyond your skill, stop and have a professional complete the job. Properly functioning brakes are critical to safety.

- Quick parts checklist to bring/buy before starting
- New rotors (matching OEM or quality aftermarket, ensure correct fit for axle side)
- New brake pads (front or rear set as required)
- Caliper hardware kit (clips/pins/boots)
- Brake cleaner, penetrating oil, anti-seize, high-temp grease
- Brake fluid (matching DOT spec for your Toyota)

- Notes about model specifics
- Torque values, rotor minimum thickness, and certain fastener types vary by model/year; follow Toyota service manual or parts fitment guide for the exact specs.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

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