Summary (what you will do): remove the PTO/driveline and safety shields, drain and open the gearbox/input housing, remove the input shaft and old bearing(s) and seals, press-install new bearing(s) and seals, reassemble with correct shims/end‑play, refill oil, test. Below is a practical, beginner-friendly full walkthrough with component descriptions, theory, common failures, tools, step-by-step procedure, tips and warnings.

Safety first (non‑negotiable)
- Park tractor, set brakes, chock wheels. Disconnect tractor PTO and remove driveline from baler. Remove ignition key. Do not work with the PTO connected.
- Block and support the baler so parts can’t fall. Use jack stands, blocks and an engine hoist if removing heavy parts.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and avoid loose clothing. Keep hands clear of springs and sharp edges.
- If using heat, use a proper bearing heater or oven; do not use an open flame near seals, oil or rubber.

What the “input shaft bearing” is and why it matters (theory, with analogy)
- The input shaft bearing supports the baler’s main input/PTO shaft in the gearbox/hub so the shaft can spin smoothly under load. Think of it like the wheels on an axle: the shaft is the axle, the bearing is the wheel hub that lets it turn freely while carrying loads.
- If the bearing wears or fails, the shaft gets play (side-to-side or radial movement), can misalign gears or splines, cause abnormal wear of gears and seals, leak oil, make noise, overheat and ultimately ruin the gearbox or shear off parts.
- Bearings reduce friction between rotating shaft and fixed housing. Typical failures: loss of lubricant, dirt ingress, fatigue (pitting), corrosion, or overload/shock (shear bolts can protect driveline, but bearings still take continuous load).

Major components you will see and what each does
- Tractor PTO / driveline: transmits power into baler. Often has a shear bolt or slip clutch for protection.
- PTO stub/spline on baler input shaft: transfers torque into internal gearbox.
- Input shaft: the steel shaft that carries torque into gears. Keyed or splined to gears.
- Bearing(s): can be a single sealed deep-groove ball bearing or a tapered roller bearing and cup/race depending on exact assembly. They support the shaft radially and sometimes axially.
- Bearing inner race (on shaft) and outer race (in housing): inner race contacts the shaft; outer race sits in the housing bore.
- Snap ring / circlip: a retaining ring that holds bearing in axial location.
- Oil seal(s): keep gear oil from leaking past the shaft; usually a lip seal pressed into the housing.
- Retaining plate / housing cover: bolts to the gearbox and holds the bearing/snap ring/seal assembly.
- Spacer/shims: set axial clearance (end play) of the shaft and bearings.
- Gear(s) or pulley(s) attached to the shaft: transfer power further into baler. Remove or support these when removing the shaft.
- Gearbox housing: supports bearing bores and contains lubricant.
- Fasteners, gaskets, drain/fill plugs: secure and seal the assembly.

Tools and materials you’ll need
- Basic: socket set, wrenches, screwdrivers, hammer, punch, pliers (including circlip pliers)
- Special: bearing puller / two- or three-jaw puller; hydraulic press or arbor press (or bearing driver + hammer for careful installs); heat source or bearing heater (or hot oil) for interference fits
- Seal driver or appropriately sized socket, soft-faced hammer
- Torque wrench (important)
- Clean rags, parts cleaner, gasket scraper
- New bearing(s) of correct part number, new oil seal(s), new gasket or RTV, replacement shims if required, replacement fasteners or locking compound if specified
- Gear oil to specification in manual, grease if applicable
- Micrometer or calipers to measure shaft and bearing bores (recommended)

Common symptoms that point to input shaft bearing failure
- Growling/rumbling or knocking noise from front of baler while running
- Vibration through driveline or baler frame
- Visible lateral play in input shaft when you try to move it by hand
- Oil leak where the shaft exits the housing; damaged or hard/dry oil seal
- Metal flakes or bearing debris in gearbox oil
- Overheating of gearbox area after short running

Before you start: get the right replacement parts and manual
- Identify the exact bearing type and number from the parts manual or by removing the bearing and reading the stamp on the outer race. MF20 manuals give the correct part numbers. If you can’t get the manual, remove the old bearing and bring it to a parts dealer for exact match.
- Also replace oil seals and any worn shims, snap rings, or fasteners.

Step-by-step procedure (practical, beginner level)
Note: exact bolt patterns and part locations vary; use the shop manual for diagrams and torque figures where available.

1) Preparation and access
- Remove any crop residue around the baler. Park and block it securely.
- Remove the PTO driveline from the tractor and from the baler PTO stub. Remove shear-bolt or safety coupler.
- Remove safety shields around driveline and gearbox covers. Label bolts if helpful.
- Drain gearbox oil: place a pan under drain plug, remove plug, catch oil and inspect for metal debris. Dispose used oil properly.

2) Remove external attachments
- Remove any belts, chains, sprockets or gear covers attached to the input shaft side. Some pulleys/gears must be removed to allow the shaft to slide out.
- If the input shaft is directly bolted to a flywheel or pulley, remove those fasteners (keep sequence) and mark orientation if needed.

3) Remove retaining plates and bearing cover
- Remove bolts on the bearing housing cover or front housing flange. This gives access to the bearing and seals.
- Note orientation and any shims behind the cover. Take photos or mark shim stack order—end play depends on shim thickness.

4) Remove snap ring / pull shaft
- Inside the housing you will likely see a snap ring/circlip or retaining washer holding the bearing in place. Use circlip pliers or punch to remove it.
- Support the internal components and slide the input shaft out. You may need to drive it out gently from the opposite side or use a puller if splined to a gear. Keep parts in order and note any spacers/shims.

5) Remove old bearing and seals
- With the shaft removed, press or pull the bearing off the shaft (press on inner race to remove), or remove the outer race from the housing with a puller. If the bearing is a press-fit in the housing, use a puller or drift carefully around the outer race.
- Remove the oil seal from the housing (careful not to score the bore).
- Clean the shaft, housing bore and all mating surfaces. Inspect the shaft journal and bore for wear, grooves or corrosion. Use emery cloth lightly for minor pitting; deep scoring may require shaft replacement or turning.

6) Inspect parts and measure
- Measure shaft journal diameter with micrometer and bearing bore. Compare to spec or new bearing inner race clearance. If shaft is worn beyond limits, replace or rework by a machine shop.
- Inspect gears, keys, splines and spacers for wear or damage. Replace damaged keys.

7) Prepare new bearing and seal
- Clean new bearing housing and shaft. For press-fit bearings, heat bearing (bearing heater or 80–100°C oil bath) to expand outer race only, or cool the shaft (ice) to ease install. Do not exceed manufacturer heating temps (typically <120°C). Do not heat seals.
- Apply a thin film of oil to shaft journal and light lubricant to seal lip. For sealed bearings do not pack with extra grease—sealed bearings are pre-lubricated.
- Use a bearing driver or socket that only bears on the race you are pressing. When pressing a bearing onto a shaft, push on the inner race only; when pressing into a housing, push on the outer race only. Press straight and even.

8) Install new bearing and seal
- Press the new bearing onto the shaft or into the housing per arrangement. Ensure fully seated against shoulder.
- Install new oil seal by gently driving it square into the bore using seal driver or socket. Verify the lip faces the oil (correct orientation).
- Reinstall snap ring/circlip in its groove.

9) Reassemble shaft and set end‑play
- Slide the shaft back in, install spacers/shims and retaining plate. End play (axial movement) is critical:
- If a shim pack was present, reinstall in the same order. If not, consult manual for shim thickness or feel for slight axial free play—typically small (0.05–0.4 mm depending on design). Too little and the shaft binds; too much and gear misalignment occurs.
- If the design uses a fixed shoulder and snap ring, ensure the snap ring seats fully.
- Torque any retaining nuts/bolts to spec (consult manual). If no spec available, tighten evenly and avoid overloading—use a torque wrench and check with dealer/manual later.

10) Reinstall covers, seals and fill oil
- Install the bearing housing cover with a new gasket or RTV and torque bolts evenly.
- Reinstall any pulleys, gears, chains and guards in original order.
- Refill gearbox with the correct grade and quantity of gear oil per manual. Replace drain and fill plugs.

11) Final checks and test run
- Rotate shaft by hand to check for smoothness; no binding or major rough spots.
- Reinstall driveline and safety shields. Start tractor, engage PTO at low speed with baler on blocks to run without load for a few minutes.
- Check for leaks, unusual noise, heat, vibration. After short run, re-check oil level and torque on bolts.
- Do a final test under load and check operation and knotter/baling function.

What can go wrong (and how to avoid)
- Wrong bearing type or orientation: always match part numbers and press bearing in correct orientation. Installing on wrong race will destroy it quickly.
- Damaging seals or bore when removing/installing: use proper drivers and protect bores from punches. Replace seals rather than reuse.
- Pressing on wrong race: pressing on the wrong race transmits force through rollers and ruins bearing. Use correct driver so force goes through the race that is supposed to take load.
- Not setting end play / shims: too tight = binding, overheating and premature failure; too loose = gear misalignment and accelerated wear. Keep shim order or measure and record.
- Contaminating bearing with dirt or metal chips: work clean, wipe parts, cover openings.
- Reusing corroded shaft or damaged snap rings: replace if worn. A slightly damaged shaft journal will shave a bearing quickly.
- Overheating bearing during install: don’t exceed recommended temperatures; avoid open flame.
- Forgetting to replace seals: a new bearing with an old hard seal will leak immediately; replace seals every time.
- Safety hazards: working with unsupported heavy parts, springs, or connected PTO will cause injury—disconnect and support fully.

Troubleshooting after reassembly
- Continued noise—possible misinstalled bearing, wrong part, debris in gearset. Inspect by removing covers and checking shaft play and bearing seating.
- Leak—seal installed wrong side out or damaged; remove and reinstall correct side, replace if needed.
- Excessive end play—re-check shim stack or snap ring seating.

Maintenance tips to extend life
- Keep gearbox oil clean; change on the schedule in manual.
- Keep seals and guards in good order to prevent dirt/water ingress.
- Ensure driveline alignment and proper shear bolt function to avoid shock loads.
- Periodically check for play and listen for changes.

Quick checklist before you start
- Correct replacement bearing(s) and seals on hand
- Shop manual or exploded parts diagram (for shims, torque specs and part numbers)
- Tools and press/puller available
- Clean workspace and oil drain pan

Final note
If the bearing bore or shaft is badly worn, or if you are unsure about proper shim settings or torque values, have a shop or dealer check specifics for the MF20. Proper measurement and torque/spec compliance make the difference between a lasting repair and repeat failure.

No questions asked; follow these steps and safety points carefully.
rteeqp73

MF HAY BALER 3 through 12 knotter clean up and adjustment tips. MF 3-12 KNOTTER clean up and adjustment.

Jones MK 12T baler Archie baleing with a jones 12T baler and a Massey Ferguson 185 tractor. You can see the sture riseing out of the straw and this ...

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