Tools & parts
- Metric socket set (deep sockets) including common sensor sizes: 19, 21, 22, 27 mm — have a full set or a dedicated temperature‑sensor socket with cutout for the wiring harness.
- 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchet + extensions.
- Torque wrench (0–50 Nm range).
- Open‑end wrench set.
- Long‑nose pliers, small flat screwdriver or pick (for connector tabs).
- Multimeter (for bench/testing).
- Drain pan, funnel, clean rags.
- Coolant (correct type for your tractor/baler), fresh sealing washer or O‑ring if sensor uses one.
- Thread sealant made for temperature sensors if required by the part (check manufacturer instructions). Do NOT use general electrical grease on threads.
- Penetrating oil (if sensor is corroded).
- Disposable gloves, safety glasses.
- Battery terminal tool (or wrench) to disconnect negative terminal.

Safety & prep
1. Park the baler on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels.
2. Engine MUST be cold. Hot coolant can cause severe burns.
3. Wear gloves and eye protection.
4. Disconnect battery negative terminal to avoid shorting harness or accidental engine start.
5. Place drain pan under engine to catch coolant — sensor removal will leak coolant.

Step‑by‑step procedure
1. Locate the coolant temperature sensor
- Typical locations: threaded into the cylinder head, intake manifold near thermostat housing, or block near top coolant passages. Remove any small covers or hoses blocking access.
2. Prepare to drain enough coolant
- Either drain coolant to below sensor height via radiator drain cock or be ready to catch the local spill with the pan. You do not usually need to fully drain the system; just lower the level below the sensor if possible.
3. Disconnect electrical connector
- Depress the release tab on the connector and pull straight off. Use a pick to lift the tab if seized. Apply penetrating oil to corroded connectors and wiggle — never yank the wires.
4. Clean area
- Wipe dirt/debris away so contaminants don’t fall into the coolant when sensor is removed.
5. Remove the sensor
- Use the correct deep sensor socket (or correct open wrench) that clears the connector. Fit socket over sensor hex and turn counterclockwise with ratchet and extension as needed. If seized, use penetrating oil and allow time. Don’t use cheater bars that can snap the sensor.
6. Inspect thread & opening
- Check the bore for corrosion, and remove old sealing washer if present. Clean threads lightly. Do not chase threads aggressively; avoid damaging the coolant passage.
7. Prepare new sensor
- Fit new sealing washer or O‑ring. If part instructions call for thread sealant, apply sparingly to threads (avoid getting sealant on sensor tip). Most sensors use a metal crush washer or O‑ring — follow part instructions.
8. Install new sensor
- Thread by hand several turns to avoid cross‑threading. Use the sensor socket and torque wrench to tighten to the manufacturer torque spec; typical sensors are 15–30 Nm (check part spec). Hand‑tighten first, then torque to spec.
9. Reconnect electrical connector
- Ensure connector and pins are clean and dry. Click into place.
10. Refill and bleed cooling system
- Top up coolant to the correct level. Run the engine with the radiator cap off (or bleed screw open if equipped) until thermostat opens and air is purged. Top up as necessary. Replace cap when no more air escapes and coolant is stable.
11. Check for leaks and function
- Inspect sensor area for leaks. With engine warm, verify the temperature gauge reads and that the sensor wiring has no play. Use a multimeter across the sensor connector to confirm expected change (resistance falls as engine warms for thermistor sensors) or verify voltage if it’s a voltage‑output sensor.
12. Dispose of old coolant properly and reconnect battery negative terminal.

How the tools are used (practical notes)
- Sensor socket: deep socket with a cutout allows the harness to remain attached while you remove the sensor. Fit it squarely on the sensor hex to avoid rounding. Use an extension to reach recessed sensors.
- Torque wrench: ensures you don’t over‑tighten and crack the sensor or thread the block. If you don’t have the exact torque spec, snug plus ~1/8 to 1/4 turn from hand‑tight with a small torque is common, but better to verify the spec for your replacement sensor.
- Multimeter: set to ohms for two‑wire thermistor sensors (cold = higher ohms, hot = lower ohms). For reference behavior only—check the replacement part datasheet for exact resistance vs temp curve.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Working on a hot engine — causes scalding. Always wait until fully cold.
- Not draining enough — expect a local spill. Protect electrical components and surfaces; have plenty of rags.
- Cross‑threading the new sensor — always start by hand and don’t force it.
- Over‑torquing — leads to snapped sensor or damaged threads. Use a torque wrench to the sensor spec.
- Using wrong sealant — some sensors use an O‑ring or crush washer; using heavy pipe dope can insulate threads or contaminate the sensor. Use only recommended sealant or none if not specified.
- Damaging the connector/wires — release tabs are plastic and brittle on older machines. Use penetrating oil and release the clip before pulling.
- Failure to bleed air — trapped air can cause false high‑temperature readings or overheating. Properly bleed the system.
- Installing the wrong sensor — sensors differ by thread, length, and electrical characteristics. Match the part number to the engine/baler or bring the old sensor to the parts supplier.

Replacement parts required
- Correct coolant temperature sensor for the MF20 engine (match original part number or engine model).
- New sealing washer or O‑ring (if applicable).
- Fresh coolant if fluid level drops below minimum.
- Optional: new connector or terminal if the existing connector is corroded.

Quick test after install
- With engine cold, measure sensor resistance (or voltage) and then again when warm. Gauge should move smoothly as engine warms. No leaks at sensor and no error codes or erratic gauge behavior.

Done.
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Field Settings and Adjustments on MF 1800 Series Small Square Balers With a little bit of knowhow, getting the best bales from your MF 1800 Series small square baler is simple. Watch our tutorial video ...

How to fix / troubleshoot / repair baler knotters

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