1) Quick overview (one-liner)
- The carburetor meters fuel and air to make a combustible mixture; faults cause hard starting, poor idle, surging, black/white smoke, stalling or flooding.

2) Symptoms → likely causes (diagnostic map)
- Hard start/cold start poor: weak choke, clogged idle jet, stuck float/needle.
- Poor power or stumbling under load: clogged main jet or air leak (vacuum leak), incorrect mixture (lean).
- Surging/variable idle: clogged idle passages, air leak, sticking throttle/choke linkage.
- Flooding/strong fuel smell: stuck open float needle, wrong float height, torn float valve seat.
- Black smoke/sooty: too rich mixture (large jet, incorrect float height, choke stuck closed).

3) Safety & prep
- Shut off fuel, disconnect battery, work in ventilated area, have replacement gaskets/needle/float seat and carb cleaner, compressed air, small brushes, pick set, clean rags, container for parts.
- Theory: removing ignition and stopping fuel prevents fire and engine spin that could injure you.

4) Removal (order)
a) Shut off fuel at tank/line or clamp fuel hose. Disconnect fuel line and any vacuum/return lines. Mark linkages.
b) Remove air cleaner assembly. Note choke/throttle linkages and return springs.
c) Unbolt carb from intake manifold and move it free with gaskets intact if reusing; place on clean bench.
- Theory: isolating the carb lets you inspect without engine variables.

5) External inspection (order)
a) Inspect inlet screen, fuel line, and primer for blockages or deterioration.
b) Check throttle/choke shafts for play or binding; look for worn bushings that allow air leaks.
- Theory: external leaks and binding linkages change air/fuel and mimic internal carb faults.
- How it fixes faults: finding and repairing leaks/binding may restore correct mixture without internal overhaul.

6) Disassembly (order)
a) Place carb on bench. Remove float bowl screws and drain fuel into container.
b) Remove float, float pin, needle valve, jets (idle and main), air bleed screws, and choke assembly.
c) Keep parts organized; note any soft/rubber parts that are swollen or hardened.
- Theory: jets and passages inside bowl feed fuel; float and needle control fuel level. Choke enriches mixture at cold start.
- How it fixes faults: accessing these parts lets you locate crop points of blockage or wear causing symptoms.

7) Cleaning (order)
a) Soak metal parts (not rubber) in carb cleaner per product instructions; use thin wire/brush & compressed air to clear jets and all passages.
b) Blow compressed air through all drilled passages (from both sides). Pay attention to idle passageways which are easily clogged.
c) Replace any gaskets, O-rings, needle valve or float if worn. Inspect and replace the float if cracked or fuel-logged (weigh it or submerge to check).
- Theory: varnish and deposits restrict flow through small jets and bleed passages causing lean/rich/stall conditions. A fuel-logged float sinks and lets bowl overfill.
- How cleaning fixes faults: restores correct flow areas and pressures so designed fuel/air ratios return; replacing worn needle/float restores proper shutoff of fuel.

8) Float height and needle seat (order)
a) Reassemble float, needle and seat but leave jets out if needed. Hold carb on its side and measure float height from a datum (consult MF20 manual). If unknown, set to typical spec range for small engines or adjust so needle closes just before float contacts bowl.
b) If float is adjustable with a tang, slightly bend to set height. Test needle: with bowl off, lightly tap float to ensure valve seats and stops fuel flow.
- Theory: float height sets fuel level in the bowl; too high = rich/flooding, too low = lean/starve. Needle seat seals at correct fuel level.
- How it fixes faults: correct fuel level ensures jets get the designed suction/head to meter fuel properly.

9) Reassembly (order)
a) Install cleaned jets, air bleeds, choke/throttle parts, new gaskets. Use thread locker only where specified. Ensure throttle/choke move freely and return springs work.
b) Reattach float bowl and torque screws to snug—don’t over-tighten.
- Theory: correct sealing and free movement ensure predictable air/fuel control.
- How it fixes faults: prevents vacuum/air leaks and sticking that upset mixture control.

10) Bench and static checks (order)
a) With carb off engine, attach fuel supply and check for leaks and that float shuts fuel off (bowl stops filling).
b) Operate throttle and choke to confirm smooth movement and that the choke opens/closes fully.
- Theory: verifies mechanical operation before reinstalling.
- How it fixes faults: confirms needle and float function so you won’t reintroduce flooding.

11) Refit to engine (order)
a) Install new intake manifold gasket(s) and bolt carb to manifold evenly. Reconnect fuel and vacuum lines and air filter. Reconnect battery if disconnected.
b) Ensure choke/throttle linkages are connected and springs hooked.
- Theory: proper sealing at manifold avoids air leaks; clean air filter prevents dirt ingestion.
- How it fixes faults: eliminates external air leaks and dirty air causing odd mixtures.

12) Initial adjustments and starting (order)
a) Open choke for cold start as specified. Prime if needed. Start engine.
b) Let warm up briefly, then set idle speed to manufacturer spec (or to a stable RPM). Set mixture via idle mixture screw if present: turn in until engine falters then back out to best throttle response (or follow manual procedure).
c) Adjust fast-idle and throttle stop as specified.
- Theory: idle and mixture screws fine-tune air/fuel at low speed; mixture screw affects the pilot circuit and air bleeds provide proper atomization.
- How it fixes faults: restores correct idle quality and prevents stalling or rough idle.

13) Road/test under load and fine tune (order)
a) Test under varying throttle and load. If lean under load (hesitation), richen main jet or check for intake leaks. If black smoke under load, reduce float height or check for excessive main jet size.
b) If surging persists, recheck idle passages for partial blockage and vacuum leaks at manifold or carb base.
- Theory: main jet supplies fuel at higher flow; pilot circuit controls low-speed. Load testing reveals when the main circuit is starving or oversupplying.
- How it fixes faults: confirming behavior under load ensures jetting and float settings are correct for real conditions and lets you pinpoint remaining issues.

14) Common specific faults and what to do (quick mapping)
- Clogged idle jet → symptom: poor idle, surging. Repair: clean idle jets/passages; how it works: restores pilot fuel flow.
- Sticking float needle/fuel in bowl → symptom: flooding. Repair: replace needle/seat or float; how it works: restores shutoff preventing overfill.
- Worn throttle shaft bushings → symptom: poor throttle response, lean spots. Repair: bushings or carb replacement, seal shafts; how it works: eliminates unmetered air entering downstream of jets.
- Fuel varnish in main jet → symptom: loss of power at high throttle. Repair: ultrasonic/chemical cleaning or replace jets; how it works: restores metering orifice for correct fuel flow.
- Choke not closing/opening → symptom: cold start problems. Repair: adjust choke linkages or rebuild choke. How it works: correct choke enriches mixture for cold start and then allows normal operation.

15) When to replace vs rebuild
- Replace carb if shafts are worn, castings corroded or critical bores are damaged. Rebuild if jets, needle, gaskets and float can be replaced and castings are sound.
- Theory: wear changes geometry you can’t reliably restore; rebuilding restores sealing/function without full replacement.

16) Final notes
- Always use fresh fuel and clean fuel filter; contamination causes repeat carb problems.
- Use manufacturer service manual for exact float height, idle/mix screw baseline and torque specs.
- Keep recordings of settings before changes for reference.

Done.
rteeqp73

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