- Safety first (read this before doing anything)
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, steel-toe boots and hearing protection as needed.
- Work on a level surface, use quality jack stands rated for the tractor weight — do not rely on a hydraulic jack only.
- Disconnect the battery to avoid accidental starter engagement.
- Keep a fire extinguisher and first aid kit nearby.
- Consult an official Massey Ferguson MF135 service manual for drawings, torque specs, and sequences; what follows is practical guidance but does not replace the manual.

- Overview of the job (what “input shaft replacement” usually means)
- The input shaft transfers engine/clutch torque into the gearbox. Replacement normally involves removing the gearbox or splitting the housing, removing gears/bearings/circlips, pulling the shaft, fitting a new shaft or new bearings/seals on the old shaft, and reassembling with correct clearances and torques.
- You will commonly need to replace bearings, seals, gaskets and possibly snap rings or worn splined parts. The shaft itself is replaced if splines are damaged or bent.

- Tools you should have (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Socket set and ratchet (metric and imperial sizes often required)
- Description: range of deep and shallow sockets, 3/8" and 1/2" drive ratchets and extensions.
- How to use: select correct socket size, attach to ratchet, turn fasteners with steady pressure. Use extensions for recessed bolts.
- Torque wrench (click-type, appropriate range e.g., 10–200 Nm or 10–150 ft·lb)
- Description: wrench that clicks at a set torque.
- How to use: set required torque, tighten bolt until click, do not use for loosening. Essential to get gearbox fasteners and bearing preload correct.
- Breaker bar (long-handled bar)
- Description: long bar for extra leverage.
- How to use: fit a socket and use steady force to break loose stubborn bolts before using ratchet.
- Combination wrench set (open-end/box-end)
- Description: individual wrenches for bolts where sockets won’t fit.
- How to use: hold head still with wrench while loosening with socket on the nut or for access in tight spaces.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips, variety of sizes)
- Description: for prying covers and removing small fasteners.
- How to use: use correct tip size; leverage gently to avoid damaging gasket surfaces.
- Hammer and soft-face mallet (rubber or dead blow)
- Description: metal hammer for stubborn parts, soft mallet for tapping without damage.
- How to use: use carefully to avoid damage; soft mallet for aligning parts, metal hammer with punch for stubborn drift pins.
- Punch and drift set (various diameters)
- Description: hardened steel punches to drive out pins, bearings, or seals.
- How to use: place punch on the component edge and tap with hammer; control alignment to avoid damage.
- Snap-ring (circlip) pliers (internal and external)
- Description: pliers with tips to remove/install circlips.
- How to use: match internal/external type to the ring; compress/expand the ring gently and lift out or replace into groove.
- Bearing puller / gear puller (two- or three-jaw)
- Description: arms clamp behind the bearing or gear and a central forcing screw pulls the shaft end.
- How to use: position jaws behind the bearing, tighten center bolt steadily until bearing lifts free. Protect shaft threads.
- Hydraulic press (bench press) or heavy-duty arbor press (or access to one)
- Description: press provides controlled force to remove/install bearings and bushings.
- How to use: use appropriate-sized receiving cup and drivers. Press slowly and evenly; never press on gear teeth—apply force to bearing race only.
- Why required: many gearbox bearings are interference fit and cannot be removed/installed by hand or simple pullers safely.
- Bearing driver / seal driver set (various diameters)
- Description: hardened discs or sleeves that let you drive new bearings and seals squarely.
- How to use: place driver on bearing outer/inner race as instructed and strike with mallet; keep square to avoid damage.
- Punch-like pilot bearing puller or slide hammer (if pilot bearing present)
- Description: for removing pilot bearings or sealed bearings behind shafts.
- How to use: follow tool instructions; a slide hammer can extract stuck bearings when puller jaws can’t get behind them.
- Hydraulic transmission jack, engine hoist, or sturdy floor jack and gearbox jack-adapter
- Description: supports and moves heavy gearbox safely.
- How to use: support gearbox under center of gravity, raise/lower slowly when removing or installing the gearbox.
- Why required: gearbox is heavy and awkward; fall risk without proper support.
- File and fine emery cloth / parts cleaner and lint-free rags
- Description: for light burr removal and cleaning surfaces.
- How to use: remove burrs gently; clean mating surfaces thoroughly before reassembly.
- Seal puller and scraper
- Description: removes oil seals and old gasket material.
- How to use: hook under seal lip and pry carefully; scrape gasket faces flat without gouging.
- Gasket maker / RTV sealant (if specified)
- Description: silicone-based sealant for gearbox covers when required.
- How to use: apply thin bead as specified by manual; avoid excess that can enter oil passages.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (for shaft endplay/runout checks)
- Description: measures small movements or runout precisely.
- How to use: mount base to stable surface, contact shaft face, zero indicator, check endplay by pushing/pulling shaft.
- Why required: ensures correct pre-load and end float after reassembly.
- Feeler gauges / metric calipers / micrometer
- Description: measure clearances and shaft dimensions precisely.
- How to use: measure endplay and bearing clearance to manual specs; replace parts if out of tolerance.
- Penetrating oil and anti-seize / gear oil (correct grade)
- Description: frees rusted bolts; anti-seize for reassembly; fill with correct gearbox oil afterwards.
- How to use: soak fasteners beforehand; apply anti-seize lightly to threads on reassembly.
- Replacement gaskets, seals, bearings, and the input shaft or input-shaft kit
- Description: new parts to replace worn components (detailed below).
- How to use: install bearings and seals per instructions and torque bolts to spec using torque wrench.

- Extra/optional tools that make the job much easier or safer (why they’re required)
- Service manual or gearbox exploded diagrams
- Why: lists torque specs, clearances, parts numbers, and correct sequences — indispensable.
- Hydraulic press (if you don't already have one)
- Why: many bearings and tight-fit gears require a press.
- Transmission jack or engine hoist
- Why: gearbox removal and reinstallation are heavy and awkward; a jack prevents injury and damage.
- Impact wrench (air or electric)
- Why: speeds removal of stubborn bolts; not required but handy.
- Heat source (propane torch) and induction heater
- Why: controlled heat helps free pressed-on gears or bearings; do NOT overheat or damage seals.

- Preparatory steps (what to do before starting)
- Gather parts and tools, clear workspace, read service manual sections for MF135 gearbox.
- Drain gearbox oil into a container; dispose/regenerate properly.
- Mark positions of linkage, shifter detents, clutch housing bolts and PTO driveshaft orientation with paint or scribe marks so you can reassemble to original positions.
- Support tractor securely on stands, remove wheels if necessary to access gearbox and clutch housing.

- General disassembly sequence (high-level; follow your manual for exact bolt locations and sequences)
- Remove clutch linkage, PTO shafts and external linkages attached to the gearbox.
- Remove bellhousing/clutch assembly from engine — note clutch alignment and keep pressure plate and disc in order.
- Support gearbox with transmission jack, disconnect from engine and lower gearbox out of the tractor.
- Remove gearbox covers and inspection plates.
- Remove ancillary components blocking the input shaft (countershafts, selector forks, syncro hubs if present).
- Remove retaining circlips and slotted nuts holding the input shaft bearings/gears — keep components in order and bag fasteners.

- How to extract the input shaft (practical tips)
- Inspect for obvious retaining hardware: snap rings, bolts or nut on the shaft end, a taper fit in the front bearing.
- Remove snap rings/speed nuts first using correct pliers.
- Use a bearing puller on the gear or bearing race — protect shaft threads with cardboard or a sleeve.
- If gear or bearing is pressed tight, use the press to push the shaft out from the housing or to press off the bearing from the shaft.
- Use penetrating oil and gentle tapping (soft mallet) to help free stuck parts; avoid hitting gears directly.
- Use the dial indicator and feeler gauges to document endfloat and positions so reassembly matches original geometry.

- Inspection — what to check once the shaft is out
- Splines: check for rounding, corrosion or flattened splines; damaged splines usually mean shaft replacement.
- Bearing races: check inner and outer races for pitting, brinelling or discoloration from overheating.
- Shaft straightness: roll on flat surface or check with dial indicator for runout.
- Gear teeth: inspect for wear, chipped teeth or uneven wear patterns.
- Oil seals and bearing bores: check for scoring or oval bore shapes; housings may need light machining if out-of-round.

- What replacement parts are commonly required and why
- Input shaft (complete) — replace if splines are worn, shaft is bent, or has deep scores.
- Why: worn splines cause clutch slippage, looseness and engagement problems.
- Bearings (tapered roller or ball bearings used on input shafts) — replace whenever shaft removed.
- Why: bearings are inexpensive relative to labor; reused bearings often fail prematurely after disassembly.
- Oil seals and gaskets (all gearbox cover seals)
- Why: seals are cut or deformed during disassembly and must be replaced to prevent leaks.
- Circlips/snap rings and nuts/washers (retain hardware)
- Why: these are often single-use or stressed; replace to ensure retention.
- Thrust washers or spacers (if found worn)
- Why: control endfloat; worn washers cause excessive shaft movement.
- Clutch spline sleeve or input gear (if worn)
- Why: if mating gear or clutch hub splines are damaged, new shaft alone won’t solve engagement problems.
- Bearing seals/retainers and pilot bearing (if present)
- Why: it’s best practice to renew all seals and bearings while opened.
- Gasket kit for gearbox (complete set)
- Why: convenient for replacing all sealing surfaces in one job.

- How to install the new shaft or bearings (key points)
- Clean everything thoroughly: solvent, compressed air (wear eye protection), lint-free rags.
- Press new bearings onto shaft using a bearing driver that contacts the correct race (inner vs outer) — pressing on the wrong race can damage bearings.
- Fit new seals and gaskets carefully; use a thin coat of oil on rubber lips to ease installation.
- Reinstall shaft into gearbox; when pressing gears/bearings back into housing, support the housing and use the press or driver to keep parts square.
- Install snap rings/nuts to the recommended torque using torque wrench and thread-locker where specified in the service manual.
- Check shaft endfloat with dial indicator and adjust with specified shim or thrust washer thickness as per manual.
- Reassemble remaining gears, forks, and covers. Ensure shift forks engage correctly and forks/guides are aligned.

- Final checks, fill, and test
- Torque all fasteners to the exact values from the MF135 service manual.
- Refit gearbox to tractor using transmission jack, align with engine carefully using clutch alignment tool when fitting clutch disc.
- Reconnect linkages and PTO shafts, refill gearbox with correct grade and volume of oil.
- Run the tractor in a safe area, check for leaks, unusual noises, and verify all gears engage smoothly.
- After initial short test, recheck torque and fluid level.

- Practical tips for a beginner (to avoid common errors)
- Do not reuse bearings or seals — replacement is cheap insurance.
- Label parts and fasteners as you remove them (bags and masking tape) to keep correct order.
- Use proper lifting gear; dropping a gearbox or shaft can injure you and ruin parts.
- If you can’t press bearings, consider taking the shaft and bearings to a local machine shop that has a press.
- If unsure about measuring shim or endplay, get help from a knowledgeable mechanic or use the service manual’s specified shim packs.

- Common problems and solutions
- Stuck pressed-on gear: use heat (controlled) on the gear/housing and a press; do not overheat (risk of damaging temper or bearings).
- Bent shaft: replace shaft; straightening is unreliable for splined shafts.
- Excessive endplay after rebuild: check thrust washer thickness, bearing seats, and confirm correct bearing orientation.

- Final note on parts sourcing
- Use OEM Massey Ferguson parts or high-quality aftermarket equivalents. Part numbers and torque specs are in the MF135 service manual or parts catalogue. Buying a “bearing and seal kit” for MF135 transmission often saves time.
- Replace both input shaft bearings even if only one feels bad — they’re inexpensive relative to the work done.

- Quick checklist before you start (in short)
- Service manual yes, correct parts yes, press or shop access yes, transmission jack yes, safety gear yes, clean work area yes, patience yes.

End.
rteeqp73

New Holland Super Hayliner 68 Probelauf

New Holland Super Hayliner 68 Probelauf

The average life is said to be in the neighborhood of 360 com- plete charge-discharge cycles. During charging the lead-acid battery shows an effi- ciency of about 75%; that is only three-quarters of the source every vehicle thats called all energy but in some cases it is sometimes called include the best section the padding in this numbers must be float periodically and the other end of the push rod attached from one side of the brake pad and the sides of the lock drive and is negative door latch depending on the outer joint. When the ball joint operation is expelled and the u joint is connected to the ignition switch or lock back from the u joint the pin so they can be replaced by hand. 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A short blade system as the front of all the vehicles balancer or pad installation tends to camshaft which will break between the bolts and one mount.