- Safety first
- Wear eye protection, heavy-duty work gloves, and steel-toe boots; trailing-arm work can drop heavy parts and generate flying debris.
- Work on a flat, level surface, block wheels not being lifted, and use wheel chocks.
- Disconnect the battery and follow machine lockout/tagout practices to prevent accidental start.
- Never rely on a hydraulic lift or jack alone to support the machine — always use mechanical stands rated for the machine’s weight.
- If any task feels beyond your comfort or skill level, stop and get a qualified technician.

- Overview of what “trailing arm” replacement means (why you’d do it)
- Trailing arm(s) locate and support the axle/wheel and transmit suspension loads; wear or damage causes play, uneven tire wear, poor handling, noise, or broken bushes/bolts.
- You may replace the whole trailing-arm assembly if it’s bent, cracked, or has irreparable bushings.
- You may replace only bushings or mounting bolts if the arm itself is sound but mounts or bushings are worn.

- Essential tools (each tool with what it is and how to use it)
- Hydraulic floor jack (3–5 ton rating recommended)
- What it is: a pump-operated jack that lifts heavy machinery by pressing the handle.
- How to use: position under a manufacturer-recommended lift point, pump handle to raise slowly, ensure jack pad contacts metal frame, never work under machine supported only by jack.
- Heavy-duty jack stands or screw stands rated for the machine
- What it is: mechanical supports that hold the weight safely after lifting.
- How to use: set stands under solid frame points, lower machine onto stands slowly, give machine a push to confirm stability.
- Wheel chocks (large rubber or heavy steel)
- What it is: blocks placed behind wheels to prevent rolling.
- How to use: chock wheels diagonally opposite the lifted side, use multiple chocks as needed.
- Full metric socket set (3/8" and 1/2" drive), deep and shallow sockets
- What it is: ratchet/socket tools for removing nuts/bolts.
- How to use: choose correct socket size, push onto fastener fully, use ratchet or breaker bar to turn. Use deep sockets for long bolts.
- Breaker bar (long non-ratcheting bar)
- What it is: a long lever arm for loosening stubborn bolts.
- How to use: attach socket and apply steady even force; avoid sudden jerks.
- Torque wrench (click-style or beam; range covering final fastener torques)
- What it is: tool to tighten bolts to specified torque.
- How to use: set required torque, tighten slowly until wrench clicks; consult OEM torque specs for final tightening.
- Combination wrench set (metric)
- What it is: open-end and box-end wrenches for confined spaces or holding the nut while turning bolt.
- How to use: select correct size, hold box end on fastener, avoid rounding edges, pull rather than push when possible.
- Impact wrench (12V/18V battery or air or electric) — optional but very useful
- What it is: delivers high torque in short bursts to remove stuck bolts quickly.
- How to use: place correct socket on tool, keep firm grip, short trigger bursts to prevent rounding. Use penetrating oil first on rusted bolts.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist, Liquid Wrench)
- What it is: chemical that soaks into rust and threads to free seized fasteners.
- How to use: spray on bolts 15–30 minutes before attempting removal; repeat if needed.
- Hammer and dead-blow hammer
- What it is: hammer for persuading parts to separate; dead-blow reduces rebound and avoids damage.
- How to use: strike with control; use dead-blow for aligning holes when installing bolts.
- Pry bar (medium/large)
- What it is: lever to separate components or align holes.
- How to use: place under flange or arm, apply steady force; protect surfaces with block of wood if needed.
- Ball-joint separator or pickle fork (if the trailing arm has pressed-in pivot joints)
- What it is: tool to separate tapered joints without damaging studs.
- How to use: place between control arm and knuckle, strike with hammer to break taper; use puller-type separators when possible to avoid damage.
- Bench or hydraulic press (if bushings are pressed into the arm)
- What it is: press used to push out/in bushings or bearings.
- How to use: set up correct adapters to press straight through the bushing; maintain alignment; press slowly and evenly.
- Bushing driver or appropriate sockets and sleeves (if pressing bushings by hand)
- What it is: tools to drive bushings in/out without damaging them.
- How to use: center driver, strike evenly with hammer or use hydraulic press; do not hammer the housing.
- Angle grinder with cutoff wheel (optional, for cutting corroded bolts)
- What it is: power tool to cut bolts off when they won’t break free.
- How to use: wear full PPE, cut carefully to avoid damaging nearby parts; be prepared to drill out remnants.
- Drill and appropriate drill bits/taps (optional)
- What it is: used to remove seized bolts or re-tap threads if damaged.
- How to use: drill center of bolt, use extractor or drill larger and tap if needed; use cutting fluid and progress cautiously.
- Wire brush and rust inhibitor/anti-seize compound
- What it is: clean surfaces and prevent future seizing.
- How to use: brush mating surfaces, apply anti-seize to fasteners per instruction to ease future removal.
- Grease gun (if new bushings/grease fittings require lubrication)
- What it is: pumps grease into fittings.
- How to use: attach coupler to zerk fitting and pump until grease appears at joint or specified amount per manual.
- Torque screwdriver/allen keys/special fastener tools as required by model
- What it is: some machines use hex or torx fasteners; have these sizes ready.
- How to use: match fastener head and tighten to specified torque.

- Extra/optional tools and why they may be required
- Impact socket set (stronger than standard sockets) — required if bolts are heavily torqued or rusted.
- Heat source (propane torch) — used to expand metal around a seized bolt; use only with fire safety precautions and battery/fuel removed.
- Hydraulic puller or slide hammer — needed if pivot pins or pressed joints are stubborn.
- Engine hoist or transmission jack — required if the trailing arm carries heavy subassemblies that must be supported while mounts are removed.
- Service manual or OEM repair guide (highly recommended) — shows model-specific diagrams, torque specs, and procedures; prevents mistakes.

- Parts that may need replacement and why
- Trailing arm assembly
- Why: bent, cracked, or severely corroded arms compromise alignment and safety.
- What to get: OEM Toyota trailing arm assembly or high-quality aftermarket equivalent specified for your exact model (4SDK3/4SDK4/4SDK5/4SDK6/4SDK8/4SDK10). Match part numbers or VIN when ordering.
- Bushings (rubber, polyurethane, or carrier bearings)
- Why: bushings wear, split, or rot, causing play and noise.
- What to get: direct-fit replacement bushings or bushing kits; polyurethane for longer life but firmer ride.
- Mounting bolts, nuts, washers (grade and length per OEM)
- Why: bolts can be stretch-type or torque-to-yield and should be replaced if damaged or if manufacturer specifies single-use.
- What to get: OEM-grade high-strength bolts; replace any corroded hardware.
- Bearings/seals (if the trailing arm houses wheel bearings)
- Why: bearing wear causes noise and heat; seals prevent contamination.
- What to get: bearing and seal kits matching axle/wheel specifications.
- Shock absorber or linkage components (if attached and worn)
- Why: connected components may be worn and should be inspected/replaced to avoid repeating the job.
- What to get: OEM shocks or compatible replacements with same mounting points and damping rates.
- Grease fittings / zerk fittings
- Why: needed if previous fittings are damaged or missing to maintain future lubrication.
- What to get: correct thread-size grease fittings.

- Step-by-step procedure (high-level, practical actions — follow OEM manual for model-specific details and torque)
- Prepare workspace: chock wheels, disconnect battery, park on level ground, gather tools and replacement parts.
- Lift and support machine: use hydraulic jack to raise machine at manufacturer lift point and set on rated jack stands; ensure stable support before removing any wheel/assembly load.
- Remove wheel or track assembly as applicable: remove lug nuts/fasteners with socket/wrench; use penetrating oil on rusted fasteners and an impact wrench or breaker bar if needed.
- Disconnect components attached to trailing arm: remove shock absorber lower bolt, sway bar link, brake lines or ABS sensor brackets, and any linkage that attaches to the arm; use wrenches to hold one side and ratchet/socket on the other.
- Remove mounting bolts securing trailing arm to frame/axle: spray penetrating oil on bolts, use breaker bar, impact wrench, or heat as needed; support the arm so it doesn’t drop when bolts are removed.
- Separate arm from hub/axle assembly: use ball-joint separator, puller, or pry bar to disengage tapered/pressed joints; be prepared to support or remove hub/axle assembly if necessary.
- Inspect removed components: check arm for bends, cracks, and bushing condition; inspect bolts and mating surfaces for wear or corrosion.
- If bushings pressed in: remove old bushings in a press or with bushing driver and replace with new bushings; ensure alignment and lubrication per bushing instructions.
- Install new or rebuilt trailing arm: align arm to mounting points, install new bolts/nuts (use anti-seize sparingly if allowed by manual), hand-tighten to hold.
- Reattach hub/knuckle, shock, links, lines, and sensors: ensure routing and attachment points match OEM orientation and that brake lines are not kinked or under tension.
- Torque fasteners to specification: use torque wrench and OEM specs for each bolt; if you don’t have specs, consult the service manual or a dealer — do not guess torque values.
- Reinstall wheel/track and lower machine: tighten lug nuts to spec in a star pattern, lower onto ground, and torque lug nuts again per manual.
- Grease fittings and check for leaks: pump grease where required, bleed brakes if lines were opened, and check fluid levels.
- Test drive / operational check: perform slow test under safe conditions, check for abnormal noises, play, or leaks; recheck torque after initial hours of operation.

- Troubleshooting and common issues
- Bolts seized and won’t budge: apply penetrating oil overnight, use heat (with battery/fluids removed and fire safety), or cut and extract; have replacement hardware ready.
- Pressed bushings don’t come out: use a press with proper adapters or take to a machine shop to avoid damaging the arm; alternatively buy a pre-bushed replacement trailing arm.
- Alignment feels off after replacement: trailing arm location affects toe/camber; an alignment may be required. If machine has fixed geometry, ensure mounting hardware torqued and in correct order.
- Noise after install: recheck torques, ensure bushings fully seated and grease applied, and inspect for interference with brake lines or hoses.

- Final notes and recommendations
- Always get the OEM service manual for your exact Toyota Skid Steer model (4SDK3/4SDK4/4SDK5/4SDK6/4SDK8/4SDK10) for correct torque specs, bolt sequences, and safety points.
- Replace corroded or bent fasteners — they are inexpensive insurance against failure.
- Consider replacing bushings while arm is off: labor saved on future jobs.
- If you lack a press or are uncomfortable separating pressed joints, consider buying a replacement trailing-arm assembly that comes with new bushings or have a shop press the bushings.
- Keep a log of replaced parts and torque values for future maintenance.

- Waste disposal and cleanup
- Dispose of used bushings, oil-soaked rags, and old hardware according to local regulations.
- Clean and store tools properly; re-torque fasteners after the first few hours of operation if recommended.

- Quick essentials summary (no fluff)
- Have a jack, rated stands, full metric socket/wrench set, breaker bar, torque wrench, penetrating oil, pry bar, hammer, ball-joint separator, press or bushing driver, and safety gear.
- Replace the arm if bent/cracked; replace bushings and any damaged or stretch bolts.
- Use the OEM manual for torque and model-specific steps; test and recheck after reassembly.

- If you need part numbers or a service manual, obtain them from Toyota authorized dealer parts department or a trusted parts supplier and match by model and serial/VIN to ensure fitment.
rteeqp73

How good are your Bobcat Skid Steer Skills? Not sure if we admire the skills or bravery more from the lads in Australia. credit to King.Cattle (IG) for the footage.. .. we love to see ...

1988 TOYOTA SDK 7 SKID STEER RESTORATION THIS IS THE FINAL PART (PART 3) TO THE WILL IT RUN SERIES ON THIS 1988 TOYOTA SDK7 SKID STEER. IN THIS VIDEO ...

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Tools & PPE
- PPE: safety glasses, gloves, steel-toe boots, hearing protection.
- Wheel chocks, heavy-duty jack & axle stands or a lift rated for the machine.
- Tire pressure gauge.
- Tape measure (at least 3 m / 10 ft), or measuring calipers.
- Toe plates or straight-edge bars (flat plates that sit against the tire tread/sidewall).
- String alignment kit (optional) or chalk line.
- Torque wrench (capable of specified lug and locknut torque).
- Wrenches/sockets for tie-rod locknuts and adjusters.
- Adjustable spanner/pipe wrench for tie-rod rotation (if required).
- Dial indicator or digital gauge (for runout / hub play).
- Digital inclinometer / camber/caster gauge (if checking camber/caster).
- Penetrating oil, anti-seize, thread locker.
- Replacement parts on hand: tie-rod ends, tie-rod assemblies, locknuts, wheel studs/nuts, wheel bearings, seals (as diagnosed).

Safety precautions (must do before starting)
1. Park machine on a flat, level, hard surface. Lower bucket/bucket arms and attachments to the ground to lock the lift circuits.
2. Shut off engine, remove key, and relieve hydraulic system pressure per machine manual.
3. Chock wheels and block machine so it cannot roll. If wheels must be off the ground, raise with an appropriate heavy-duty jack and support with rated jack stands—never rely only on the jack.
4. Wear PPE. Keep bystanders clear. Use approved lifting/rigging if moving wheels/axles.

Overview of what to check
- Visual & functional inspection: tires, rims, lug torque, hub/runout, wheel bearings, tie rods, drag links, steering cylinder mounts, bushings, and linkage play.
- Measure toe (primary on skid-steer style machines). Camber/caster may not be adjustable on many skid steer axles; measure only if you suspect bent spindles or frame damage.
- Adjust steering linkage (tie-rods) to bring toe into spec. Replace worn parts before adjusting.

Step-by-step procedure

1) Preliminary inspection
- Check tire pressure and match all tires to recommended pressure. Record pressure.
- Inspect tires for uneven wear, cuts, or loose tread — tire condition will affect alignment results.
- Inspect rims for bends/cracks.
- Check lug nut torque and retorque to spec if needed.
- With the machine on the ground and engine off, check for play in wheel bearings/hubs using a dial indicator or by rocking wheel at 12/6 and 3/9 positions. Replace bearings if play exceeds spec.
- Inspect tie-rod ends, ball joints, linkage bushings, and steering cylinder rod ends for looseness or torn seals. Any wear or free play must be repaired before alignment.

2) Prepare for measurement
- Ensure all four tires are on the ground and have equal pressure. Work on a level floor.
- Center the steering: rotate front wheels/steering until the steering wheel/steering linkage is in the neutral/centered position. On many skid steers, center is with wheels straight ahead; confirm visually with steering stops.
- If adjustable, block articulation to center if the design allows (follow manual for centering procedures).
- Clean tires where measurements will be taken.

3) Measuring toe — string or plate method (toe is most important)
- Toe plates method:
a. Put a toe plate alongside each front and rear tire (or use a straight edge). Plates should be parallel to machine centerline if possible.
b. Measure the distance between the plates at hub height (or same vertical position) at the front edge and rear edge of the tires. Use the same reference height on each tire — typically the wheel centerline/hub.
c. Toe = front measurement minus rear measurement. Positive value = toe-out (front wider than rear), negative = toe-in.
- String method (alternative):
a. Run two parallel strings along both sides of the machine, aligning them with the rear wheels (or machine centerline). Use turnbuckles or clamps to get them parallel and true to machine centerline.
b. Measure from the string to the front and rear of each front wheel at hub height.
c. Calculate toe as difference between front and rear measurements on the same wheel.

Notes on measurement:
- Use the same contact point on each tire (outer tread block, bead area, etc.). Record measurements to 1–2 mm or 1/16".
- If the machine has dual rims or bulky tires make sure you measure at comparable points for front/rear.

4) Compare to specification
- Consult the Toyota service manual for the precise toe spec for your exact 4SDK model. Typical practice: toe is very small (close to neutral) — many skid steers use minimal toe-in or toe-out. If no spec available, aim for equal distances left vs right and minimal toe (i.e., wheel faces nearly parallel).
- If toe difference exceeds spec or steering is off-center, adjustment is required.

5) Adjusting toe (tie-rod adjustments)
- Identify the adjustable tie-rod(s) between the left and right steering knuckles or wheels. There is normally a left and right tie-rod with a threaded adjuster and locknut.
- Loosen the tie-rod locknuts enough to allow rotation of the rod.
- Rotate the tie-rod tube or adjuster to lengthen/shorten and obtain the correct toe:
- Turning the rod will move wheels in opposite directions — rotate until the front measurement minus rear measurement equals the target toe.
- Make small adjustments, re-measuring often. Center steering as needed as you adjust.
- Once within spec, tighten locknuts to the specified torque. Apply thread locker if called for by manual.
- Recheck measurements after torquing locknuts (torque can shift alignment slightly). Re-adjust if necessary.

6) Verify steering center & operation
- With machine on ground and engine running (if required), cycle the steering through full travel and return to center several times, then re-measure toe to ensure it returns to spec and centers properly.
- Check for binding, odd noises, or uneven response. If steering does not return to center or steering is heavy, inspect cylinders, hoses, and steering valve.

7) Camber & caster (if applicable)
- Many skid steer front axles are fixed and do not have adjustment for camber/caster. If camber or caster is grossly out, suspect bent spindle, damaged axle, or frame damage.
- Measure camber with digital inclinometer against the wheel/rim face per the gauge instructions.
- If out of spec, replace bent components (spindle, kingpin, axle assembly) rather than trying to force adjustment.

8) Final checks
- Torque all fasteners (tie-rod locknuts, steering link bolts, wheel lug nuts) to Toyota spec.
- Road/operational test: operate loader over a short route and under normal load; check straight-line tracking, steering feel, and tire wear patterns.
- After 8–50 hours of operation, recheck toe and retorque locknuts and lugs; adjustments can settle.

How the tools are used (concise)
- Tape measure: measure front and rear distances at rim centerline height between toe plates or to string.
- Toe plates: create a straight, repeatable reference surface against tire side/tread for accurate front/rear comparison.
- String kit: establishes machine centerline or parallel references when plate access is difficult.
- Digital inclinometer/camber gauge: place on wheel face or rim adapter to read camber/caster; zero to chassis reference or use specified procedure for your gauge.
- Dial indicator: measure hub runout and detect bearing movement/play.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Measuring on an uneven floor — always use a level surface.
- Not matching tire pressures — different pressures change effective roll radius and give false readings.
- Failing to repair worn steering/tie-rod components before attempting adjustment — worn parts will result in unstable alignment.
- Measuring at different heights or points between front and rear — be consistent.
- Ignoring wheel bearing or hub play — causes rapid reversion of alignment and uneven tire wear.
- Over-tightening locknuts before verifying final measurements — torque can shift geometry.
- Assuming camber/caster are adjustable — many skid steers are not; trying to force adjustments can break components.
- Not re-checking after a test drive — components can settle under load.

When replacement parts are required
- Replace tie-rod ends or tie-rod assemblies if there is any axial/play or torn seals.
- Replace wheel bearings/hubs if runout or play exceeds spec.
- Replace bent spindles, steering arms, or axle components if camber/caster are out and cannot be corrected by linkage adjustment.
- Replace worn bushings, pins, and steering cylinder rod ends or seals to eliminate play.
- Replace tires with uneven wear or structural damage; new tires are required for a proper alignment result.

Final notes
- Always refer to the Toyota 4SDK series service manual for exact specifications (toe, torque values, centering procedures).
- After any steering/axle repair or alignment, recheck after initial service hours to confirm stability.

Done.
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