- Safety first
- Park tractor on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels, remove key.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves; keep loose clothing away from moving parts.
- Work with a helper when you run the engine and operate controls; keep bystanders well away.
- Have a fire extinguisher nearby and a drip pan and rags for spills. Hydraulic fluid under pressure can penetrate skin — never place your hand near a leak.

- What you are testing and why
- You are testing hydraulic/transmission (power takeoff/3‑point hitch/steering) pressure — the working pressure produced by the hydraulic pump and controlled by the relief/regulator valve.
- The test determines whether pressure is within spec, which tells you if the pump, relief valve, filters, hoses or control valves are functioning correctly.

- Basic tools you should already have (what they are and how to use them)
- Combination wrench set (metric and imperial) — used to remove test-plug or fittings; choose the correct size and turn steadily, not by jerking.
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions — for bolts/plugs in recessed locations; use correct socket size and keep sockets square on fasteners to avoid rounding.
- Pliers and adjustable wrench — for holding fittings or hoses; use adjustable wrench carefully to avoid rounding flats.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) — for small covers or clamps.
- Drain pan — to catch fluid when you open a plug or hose; place under the work area before loosening anything.
- Clean shop rags and paper towels — for wiping up spills and keeping connections clean.
- Gloves and safety glasses — protect skin/eyes from hot/hydraulic fluid.

- Special/exact tools required (detailed descriptions and why they’re required)
- Hydraulic pressure gauge and hose test kit (gauge rated to at least 3000 psi, preferably 5000 psi) — the gauge converts hydraulic pressure to a readable value. Choose a kit that includes hydraulic hose, quick‑disconnects, and multiple adapter fittings.
- How to use: attach the hose to the gauge, attach the correct adapter to the tractor test port or to the removed plug, secure connections tight, start engine per procedure below, operate the hydraulic control and read the gauge. Never exceed the gauge’s maximum rating.
- Why required: a regular oil pressure gauge or tyre gauge won’t read hydraulic pressures; the kit provides high‑pressure hose and safe fittings.
- Adapter fittings set (includes BSP, NPT, and metric/unified sizes) — older British tractors often use BSP or Whitworth threads; the adapter lets the gauge hose screw into the tractor’s hydraulic test port or a port made by removing a plugged fitting.
- How to use: select the adapter that matches the test port thread and use thread sealant or Teflon tape compatible with hydraulic fluid if required by the adapter instructions.
- Why required: without the correct adapter you cannot make a safe, leak‑free connection to the hydraulic circuit.
- Line wrench (flare-nut wrench) or spanner for hydraulic fittings — prevents rounding of the hex on hydraulic fittings.
- How to use: fit over most of the nut to grip more of its flats and avoid rounding while loosening/tightening.
- Why required: many hydraulic fittings are soft and get damaged by ordinary wrenches.
- Torque wrench (optional but recommended) — to tighten test-port plugs/valves to correct torque when reassembling.
- How to use: set to specified torque (from manual) and tighten smoothly.
- Why required: prevents leaks from under/over-tightening.

- Optional but helpful items
- Service/repair manual for Massey Ferguson MF135 (M148) — shows exact location of hydraulic test port, pressure specs, and procedures.
- Replacement sealing washers/pipe plugs — often the test plug uses a crush washer or pipe sealant; have replacements on hand.
- Small mirror / inspection light — to locate ports under/behind housings.
- Hoses clamps and zip ties — to secure gauge hose away from moving parts.

- Locating the test port on MF135 (general guidance)
- Hydraulic test ports are usually on the hydraulic control valve/body or the top of the gearbox/hydraulic housing; older Massey Fergusons often have a small plugged hole on the valve block or near the draft control.
- If you cannot visually identify a test port, consult the MF135 service manual or parts diagram before forcing fittings or removing lines.
- Do not unscrew random plugs on the gearbox without identifying them — some will drain gear oil.

- Step‑by‑step procedure (bullets only)
- Prepare tractor: park, chock wheels, set neutral, remove ignition key, allow engine area to be clear.
- Drain pan and rags under area where you will open a plug; have the gauge and adapters laid out.
- Locate the hydraulic test port or a removable plug on the hydraulic control valve/valve body. If manual tells you which plug, use that.
- Remove the plug carefully with the correct wrench; catch any drips in the drain pan; inspect plug and threads for type (pipe thread or straight).
- Select the correct adapter from your test kit and thread it into the port; use appropriate sealing (PTFE tape for NPT, or thread compound compatible with hydraulic oil — follow adapter instructions). Tighten with a line/flare wrench — do not over‑torque.
- Attach the gauge hose to the adapter and secure quickly — ensure all connections are tight and supported so the hose cannot whip if it loosens.
- Double‑check hose routing so it won’t contact belts, pulleys, fan or hot exhaust; clamp or tie the hose out of the way.
- Sit in operator seat, maintain emergency stop plan with your helper outside the tractor.
- Start engine and bring to normal operating RPM as specified in the manual (or idle then increase to operating speed while watching gauge).
- Operate the hydraulic control (raise/lower 3‑point hitch, move control lever) and observe pressure on gauge under different conditions: idle, engine fast idle, under load (lift with implement or block movement).
- Note steady pressures, peak pressures, and whether pressure is stable or fluctuating wildly or not reaching expected values.
- To check relief/regulator: slowly raise hitch to maximum or block flow (consult manual for safe method) and observe maximum pressure the gauge reaches — this should match relief spec in manual.
- After completing tests, reduce engine to idle and stop engine before disconnecting gauge (some recommend stopping engine to avoid fluid spray — do what the gauge kit manual recommends).
- Carefully remove the gauge and adapter, reinsert and tighten the original plug or new plug/seal, and clean spilled fluid. Torque plugs per manual.
- Run the hydraulic lever through its travel a few times, check for leaks at the plug and at fittings, wipe clean and dispose of rags properly.

- How to interpret results (quick guide)
- Normal/stable pressure within published spec — hydraulic system is likely OK.
- Low pressure (markedly below spec) — check simple causes first: fluid level low, air in system, blocked filter/strainer, inlet line restriction, or worn pump.
- Pressure reaches relief valve value but system lacks lifting force or leaks — likely internal pump wear (low flow) or relief valve stuck/incorrectly adjusted.
- Pressure fluctuates or spikes — possible aeration, loose connections, failing pressure regulating valve, or damaged pump.
- No pressure — blown fuse? (if electrically controlled), seized pump, or blocked inlet; check fluid level and filter before condemning pump.

- Common parts that may need replacement, why, and what to buy
- Hydraulic oil (fluid) — why: low or contaminated fluid reduces pressure and causes pump cavitation; replace with correct grade (see manual).
- Hydraulic filter/strainer screen — why: clogged filter restricts flow to pump; replace the element or clean the strainer.
- Seals and O‑rings (valve body/test port plug seals) — why: worn seals cause external/internal leaks and pressure loss; buy correct seal kit for MF135.
- Relief/pressure regulator valve or cartridge — why: stuck or misadjusted relief valve will set wrong max pressure; replace or rebuild valve or use new shim/repair kit if available.
- Hydraulic pump (main pump or vane pump rebuild kit) — why: worn pump (internal leakage or worn vanes) cannot develop required pressure/flow; replacement or rebuild is common on older tractors.
- What to buy: OEM or quality aftermarket MF135-specific pump, or a repair/rebuild kit if you are mechanically able; match pump model numbers from tractor manual or parts tag.
- Hoses and fittings — why: external leaks at hoses reduce system pressure and are safety hazards; replace with high‑pressure hydraulic hoses rated above system max pressure and with correct end fittings (BSP or SAE as required).
- Directional/control valve rebuild kit — why: worn spool or bushes cause internal bypass and low pressure; rebuild or replace valve body.

- Quick troubleshooting order (do these before replacing major parts)
- Check fluid level and top with correct hydraulic oil.
- Inspect and clean/replace filter/strainer.
- Check for air in system: tighten inlet hose fittings and bleed system per manual.
- Re-test pressure after these checks; if still low or abnormal, test relief valve function and consider pump inspection or replacement.

- Notes on buying parts and gauges
- Buy a gauge kit designed for tractors/agriequipment; ensure adapters include BSP/Whitworth and/or NPT sizes. For MF135 you will likely need British‑style fittings — pick a kit that explicitly lists tractors or BSP adapters.
- Keep receipts and compare part numbers from a trusted MF parts supplier or the service manual.

- Final safety and cleanup
- Clean all spilled hydraulic oil immediately; dispose of oil and rags according to local regulations.
- Recheck torque on any plugs and fittings after a short test run.
- If you’re unsure of any step or cannot locate the proper test port, obtain the MF135 service manual or contact a tractor technician rather than improvising.

- If you want a specific parts list
- Buy: service manual (MF135 M148), hydraulic pressure test kit (5000 psi max with BSP adapters), a set of spare plug washers, correct grade hydraulic oil, replacement filter/strainer element, and — if needed after diagnosis — replacement pump, relief valve or hose matched to MF135 specifications.

No extra commentary.
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