Tools & consumables
- Socket set & metric/imperial wrenches (common sizes: 3/8"–1/2" drive sockets, open/box wrenches).
- Breaker bar, extension bars.
- Torque wrench.
- 3‑jaw or 2‑jaw gear/pulley puller sized for the MF135 pulley (or a designated water‑pump pulley puller). Have a center‑forcing screw and appropriate adapter so the screw bears on the pump shaft end, not the bearing.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD‑40 Specialist).
- Rubber/wooden mallet and brass drift (avoid steel hammer blows to the pulley face).
- Small punch or drift to remove/install woodruff key.
- Seal puller / hook tool.
- Propane torch or heat gun (for gentle expansion of aluminum pulley if stuck).
- Arbor press (optional but ideal for install).
- Drain pan, rags, cleaning solvent.
- New woodruff key, pump shaft seal (if removed), pump gasket (if removing pump), retaining nut/washer if worn, replacement pulley if damaged, replacement belt if worn.
- Coolant for refill, thread locker (if specified), anti-seize.
- Safety gear: safety glasses, gloves, long sleeves.

Safety precautions (read & follow)
- Work with the engine cold. Hot coolant/components cause severe burns.
- Disconnect the battery negative terminal before starting.
- Park on a level surface, chock wheels and set parking brake.
- Drain coolant into a catch pan and dispose properly.
- Use proper supports if you raise the tractor. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Do not strike the pulley face with a hardened hammer — risk of cracking or bending fan blades and damaging the pump shaft/bearing.
- Use eye protection when pulling the pulley — parts can release suddenly.

Step‑by‑step: remove water‑pump pulley (MF135 M148)
1. Preparation
- Park, chock wheels, disconnect battery negative. Allow engine to cool.
- Drain coolant into a pan by opening the radiator drain valve and/or removing lower hose.
- Remove fan in front of pulley if fitted (usually 4 bolts behind pulley) — support fan as you remove last bolt.

2. Remove drive belt and any shrouds
- Loosen the belt tensioner and remove the belt from the pump pulley. Remove any front covers that block access.

3. Expose the pulley nut/retainer
- Clean the area. Apply penetrating oil to nut, threads and around hub. Let soak 10–15 minutes.

4. Remove retaining nut/washer and woodruff key
- Remove the nut and any locking washer. Note orientation for reassembly.
- Remove the woodruff key by using a small punch and drift; tap it out carefully and keep it — replace with new key when reinstalling.

5. Using the pulley puller
- Select a puller with arms that hook behind the pulley lip without contacting the pump housing. Center the forcing screw on the end of the pump shaft. If the shaft end is tapered or threaded, use a protective socket or drift so the screw bears on solid, not on the bearing face.
- Tighten the puller screw slowly and evenly with a wrench/breaker bar. Turn it until the pulley starts to move. If it’s stubborn, back off and apply more penetrating oil, then try again.
- If the pulley won’t move, apply even heat to the pulley around the hub (propane torch, keep flame moving). Heat will expand the pulley; avoid overheating (do not melt paint, seals, or scorch rubber). Continue to work the puller until the pulley slides free.
- Never lever on the pulley with a pry bar against the pump housing — you’ll bend the pump housing or damage the shaft.

6. Remove pulley and inspect
- Once off, inspect pulley bore, keyway, woodruff key, shaft shoulder and shaft seal for wear. Replace pulley if cracked or excessively worn.
- If you removed the pump or suspect the shaft seal is leaking, replace the shaft seal and gasket now.

Step‑by‑step: installation
7. Clean and prepare
- Clean the shaft, keyway and pulley bore. Fit a new woodruff key (if removed or damaged). Lightly oil the key — do not use excessive lubricant in the keyway.

8. Fit the pulley onto the shaft
- Preferred: use an arbor press to press the pulley straight onto the shaft until it seats on the pump shoulder.
- Alternative: heat the pulley evenly to cause slight expansion (make it hot to the touch), then quickly slide it down onto the key and shaft until it seats. Work slowly to align the keyway.
- Do not hammer the pulley onto the shaft — that risks damaging bearings and the pulley.
- Ensure the pulley seats fully against the shoulder and the key is fully in the keyway.

9. Reinstall washer/nut and torque
- Refit the locking washer and nut. Tighten the nut to the manufacturer’s specified torque (consult the MF135 service manual). If the manual is not available, tighten securely with a torque wrench to a sensible value for that size nut but the correct spec is preferred.
- If a cotter pin or tab washer is used, bend/secure it as originally fitted.

10. Refit fan, belt and shrouds
- Reinstall fan and bolts; torque bolts to spec (tighten evenly so fan sits true).
- Reinstall belt, set correct tension per MF135 spec. Inspect belt alignment and adjust idler as needed.

11. Refill coolant and test
- Refill cooling system with correct coolant and bleed air (open bleed screw if fitted, run engine until warm and top up).
- Check for leaks around pump and pulley area. Verify belt runs true and no wobble in pulley at idle.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Using the wrong puller: short arms or incorrect grip will damage the pump housing. Use a puller that bears behind the pulley lip only.
- Bending the fan or cracking pulley by hammer blows: use press or heat; avoid direct hammering.
- Letting the puller screw bear on the bearing face or pump internals: use a protective cap/socket so the screw presses on the shaft end only.
- Reusing a flattened/twisted woodruff key: always fit a new key if there’s any damage.
- Not replacing a leaking shaft seal: a new pulley on a leaking seal just gets ruined again — replace the seal if there’s evidence of leakage.
- Over‑ or under‑torquing the nut: get the service manual spec. Over‑torque can preload bearings; under‑torque allows slippage.
- Not aligning the key properly when installing: pulley will not seat and will damage key/shaft.

Replacement parts commonly needed
- Pulley (if cracked or scored)
- Woodruff key (recommended replacement)
- Pump shaft seal
- Pump gasket (if pump removed)
- Retaining nut/washer/cotter pin (if worn)
- Drive belt (inspect; replace if glazed or cracked)
- Coolant

How the puller tool is used (brief)
- The puller’s arms hook behind the pulley lip. The center forcing screw is threaded down to press on the pump shaft end. As you turn the screw clockwise, it pushes on the shaft while pulling the pulley arms outward, extracting the pulley straight off the shaft. Use steady, even pressure; do not apply sudden impact. If the pulley is stuck, apply penetrating oil and heat — continuing to tighten will eventually dislodge the pulley without hammering.

Final checks
- Check pulley runout by spinning by hand — any wobble indicates misfit or bent pulley.
- Verify belt tracking and adjust.
- Recheck coolant level after first run and inspect for leaks.

That’s it — follow the steps carefully, use the right puller and avoid hammering.
rteeqp73

TRATORMEC...VALMET 148 TURBO...O TOP BRUTO...

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