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Massey Ferguson MF35 tractor factory workshop and repair manual download

Ordered procedure with theory — drive (V) belt replacement, Massey‑Ferguson MF35 (concise, no questions).

Preparation / theory
1. Safety first: park on level ground, set handbrake, stop engine, remove ignition key, disconnect battery negative. Theory: prevents accidental start and short circuits while working near rotating parts and metal tools.

Inspect belt & system before removal
2. Visual and tactile inspection: note belt size/section and routing, check for cracks, glazing, frayed cords, stretching, oil/grease contamination. Theory: V‑belts fail from wear, heat, contamination and loss of effective friction surface or loss of section so they slip rather than transmit torque.

3. Check pulleys and bearings: spin dynamo/alternator, water pump (if belt driven), crank pulley by hand; feel for roughness, play, wobble, oil or metal filings. Theory: a new belt on worn/wobbly pulleys or bad bearings will still slip or cut the new belt — belt replacement fixes drive only if pulleys/bearings are serviceable.

Removal
4. Remove guards and any obstructions in the belt path so you can access adjusters and pulleys. Theory: clear access lets you manipulate tensioners and inspect contact surfaces.

5. Loosen alternator/dynamo or tensioner retaining bolts to relieve belt tension and remove the old belt. Note routing and orientation. Theory: releasing tension frees the belt so it can be removed without forcing or damaging pulleys/shafts.

Examine components
6. Clean pulley grooves and hub faces; remove grease/oil with solvent if contaminated. Check pulley alignment with straightedge across pulley faces. Theory: clean, aligned pulleys maximize belt wrap and uniform pressure so friction transmits torque efficiently. Oil/grease reduces friction; misalignment causes edge wear and lateral belt migration.

Select and compare new belt
7. Ensure new belt is correct section and length for MF35 (confirm part number or measure old belt). Compare cross‑section and V profile to old belt. Theory: belt torque capacity depends on cross‑section, contact area and proper seating in pulley groove.

Installation
8. Fit the new belt over crank pulley first, then other pulleys following original routing. If a tight fit, use tools only to guide — do not pry on the belt with sharp tools. Theory: correct seating ensures full wrap angle and contact pressure where torque is needed.

Tensioning and alignment
9. Reposition alternator/dynamo/tensioner and tighten adjusting bolts finger‑tight to hold position. Align pulleys visually or with straightedge so belt runs true (no offset in plane). Theory: alignment prevents side forces that cause heat, edge wear and premature failure.

10. Set belt tension to specification: for classic V‑belt on MF35 aim for approximately 10–13 mm (0.4–0.5 in) deflection at midspan with moderate thumb/finger pressure (or use a belt tension gauge if available). Then fully tighten the adjuster bolts. Theory: proper tension creates sufficient normal force between belt and pulley; friction (F = μ * normal force) transmits torque. Too loose → slip, heat, glazing, loss of charging/cooling; too tight → excessive bearing and shaft loads, premature bearing/seal failure and increased belt bending fatigue.

Verification and break‑in
11. Manually rotate the engine a few full turns to seat the belt and confirm smooth rotation and no interference. Theory: seating lets the belt find its correct seating in grooves and exposes any misalignment or binding before starting.

12. Reconnect battery, start engine briefly and observe belt at idle and under throttle for: stable tracking, no chirp, no slip under load, and pulley vibration. Stop engine and recheck tension/fasteners. Theory: belts stretch slightly during initial operation; re‑checking avoids early loosening. Re‑check after 10–30 minutes of normal operation and retension if needed.

How the repair fixes the fault (theory summary)
- Replacing a worn belt restores the frictional interface and correct cross‑section so torque from the crank pulley is transmitted efficiently to dynamo/alternator/water pump. That stops slipping, restores charging and cooling drive, and removes belt‑related noise.
- Cleaning and aligning pulleys restores full wrap and uniform pressure distribution, preventing edge wear and uneven loading that cause slippage and premature failure.
- Correct tension provides the necessary normal force for frictional torque transfer without overloading bearings — balancing slip prevention vs. bearing life.
- Inspecting and addressing bad pulleys/bearings prevents immediate re‑failure: a new belt can only perform if pulleys run true and bearings allow correct axial alignment and rotation.

Common failure signs and what they indicate (brief)
- Glazing and squeal: slipping from low tension or contamination.
- Fraying/side tearing: misalignment or lateral runout.
- Rapid wear: oil contamination or rough pulley grooves.
- Bearing heat/noise after tightening: belt too tight or bad bearing.

Done — follow the ordered steps and the theory above; replace pulleys/bearings if inspection shows wear.
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