Short, practical procedure from an experienced tech—no fluff.

Note: the MF35 uses one or more V‑type drive belts (not a modern serpentine belt). This procedure covers replacing the front drive/fan/alternator (dynamo) V‑belt(s).

Tools & consumables
- Metric/AF socket set and ratchet (8–19 mm common sizes), combination wrenches
- Long pry bar or large screwdriver (for tensioning the alternator/dynamo)
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Belt tension gauge or ruler + known deflection spec (see below)
- Wire brush/clean rag, small scraper
- Penetrating oil (if bolts are seized)
- Replacement belt(s) matched to machine (OEM or correct length/cross‑section V‑belt) — bring the old belt to parts counter if unsure
- Safety gloves, eye protection, wheel chocks
- Optional: impact or breaker bar, anti‑seize, belt dressing (not recommended for V‑belts)

Safety first
1. Park on level ground, set parking brake, stop engine, remove key. Chock wheels.
2. Allow engine to cool before working near radiator/fan.
3. Disconnect the battery negative terminal to prevent accidental cranking or shorts.
4. Remove jewelry, wear gloves/eye protection. Keep hands/loose clothing away from moving parts when testing.

Step-by-step replacement
1. Locate belt routing. Sketch or photograph belt path around pulleys (crank, pump/water, dynamo/alt, fan, any idlers). This prevents misrouting.
2. Remove obstructions. If any belt guards or grill panels are fitted, remove them with appropriate sockets/screwdrivers.
3. Inspect pulleys. Before removing belt, check pulleys for scoring, nicks, wobble or excessive bearing play. Replace worn pulleys/bearings first—new belt on bad pulleys will fail quickly.
4. Loosen adjuster/pivot bolts:
- On MF35 the dynamo/alternator is mounted on a pivot and has an adjustment plate with a tension bolt. Loosen the pivot bolt (do not remove) and the adjustment/tension nut enough to free the unit so it can swing.
- If there is an idler tensioner, loosen the lock nut on the idler.
5. Relieve belt tension and remove old belt:
- Use a pry bar or large screwdriver between the alternator/dynamo case and the mounting bracket and pry outward while pulling the belt off the easiest pulley (usually the small alternator/dynamo).
- Remove belt from all pulleys and take it out.
6. Clean pulleys and check alignment:
- Wire‑brush pulleys to remove oil/grease and debris. Clean mounting surfaces.
- Check pulley faces are in the same plane. Misalignment causes rapid wear.
7. Fit the new belt:
- Route the new belt exactly as the old one was routed. Install over the crankshaft and large pulleys first, finishing with the alternator/dynamo.
- If tight, use pry bar to move alternator/dynamo outward to allow belt to slip over small pulley.
8. Set initial tension:
- Move the alternator/dynamo to remove slack and tighten the adjustment nut until belt is snug. Do not fully torque pivot yet.
- If using a deflection method: for most V‑belts on small tractors, aim for about 1/2" (12 mm) deflection at the longest span with moderate thumb pressure. If you have a belt tension gauge, set per gauge recommendations for belt cross‑section.
- If using tension spec from the manual, use that instead.
9. Tighten and secure:
- Hold the alternator/dynamo in position and tighten the pivot bolt snugly, then torque to spec if available. Tighten the adjustment/tension nut to lock the position.
- Double‑check pulley alignment.
10. Reconnect battery negative terminal.
11. Start engine and observe:
- Run at idle and observe belt tracking, noise, and vibration.
- Recheck tension after a few minutes of running/warm‑up. V‑belts can stretch slightly — recheck and readjust to the deflection spec, then fully tighten bolts.
12. Final checks:
- Inspect for oil/grease on the belt. If present, rectify leak and replace belt again if contaminated.
- Replace any belt guards removed.

How the tools are used (brief)
- Pry bar/large screwdriver: used as a lever to move the alternator/dynamo outward to relieve tension when removing/installing belt. Use a controlled force — don’t lever against fragile components.
- Socket/ratchet and wrenches: loosen/tighten pivot and adjuster bolts. Use correct size to avoid rounding bolts.
- Torque wrench: final torque on pivot and lock nuts to prevent slipping; prevents over‑ or under‑tightening.
- Belt tension gauge (optional): measures tension accurately; place across belt span and read per manufacturer's chart; preferred for repeatable results.
- Wire brush/clean rag: prepare pulley faces for new belt to prevent slippage.

Replacement parts & wear items to consider
- Correct V‑belt(s) for MF35 (match old belt length and cross‑section or consult parts manual/OEM). Replace all drive belts if multiple and similar age.
- Alternator/dynamo bearings or pulley if noisy/wobbly.
- Tensioner/idler pulley if worn or bearing rough.
- Belt guard if damaged.
- Fasteners (if old bolts are corroded) and anti‑seize for threads.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Over‑tensioning the belt — causes premature bearing and belt failure.
- Under‑tensioning — causes slip, overheating, and glazing of belt.
- Putting belt on wrong path or wrong side of idler — leads to improper operation.
- Installing new belt on worn/damaged pulleys — belt will fail quickly.
- Not cleaning oil/grease off pulleys — contamination ruins new belts.
- Forgetting to recheck tension after engine warm‑up — belts seat and stretch slightly.
- Not securing pivot/adjuster bolts tightly — belt will loosen when engine runs.
- Using “belt dressing” to compensate for improper tension or worn belt — this hides problems.

That's the complete practical procedure. Replace with OEM‑spec V‑belt(s) and recheck after 50–100 miles or hours of operation.
rteeqp73

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