Below is a clear, practical, beginner-friendly guide to replacing ball joints on a Massey Ferguson MF35-style front axle. It covers why you do it, what every component is and how it works, the tools and parts you need, step-by-step removal and installation, safety, and what can go wrong. Read the whole thing before you start. Use the tractor’s service manual for model-specific drawings and torque specs.

Short theory — why this repair matters
- What a ball joint does: A ball joint is a load-bearing pivot that links the steering knuckle (wheel carrier) to the control arm (or axle housing) and lets the wheel pivot for steering while supporting vertical weight. Think of it like a human hip joint: the ball (ball stud) sits in a socket and lets the bone rotate while carrying weight.
- Why replacement is needed: Over time the ball/stud and socket wear, the dust boot cracks and loses grease, allowing dirt and water in. Worn ball joints develop play (slop) and can produce clunks, loose steering, uneven/rapid tire wear and, if catastrophic, loss of wheel control.
- How the system works as a whole: Steering input from the wheel/steering box moves the tie rods and knuckles; the ball joint allows the knuckle to pivot while the stud holds it to the arm. The grease fitting (if present) keeps the interface lubricated inside the sealed boot.

Every component (what it is and what it does)
- Ball stud (ball): spherical end of the joint with a threaded shaft. Acts as the moving “ball” and mounts into the knuckle or control arm and accepts the castle nut.
- Socket/cup (race): the concave surface the ball rides in; sometimes integral to the joint housing. Allows smooth rotation and pivot.
- Housing: the metal shell that contains the socket and attaches to the control arm or knuckle.
- Dust boot (rubber boot): seals grease in and dirt out. If torn, joint fails faster.
- Grease fitting (zerk): a nipple to pump grease into the joint (on serviceable joints). Some joints are sealed and not greasable.
- Retaining ring / snap ring / pressed-in fit: method that holds the joint in the control arm (either a circlip, pressed-fit or a nut).
- Castle nut and cotter pin: fasteners that secure the threaded stud in the knuckle and prevent loosening.
- Steering knuckle (spindle / hub carrier): attaches to wheel hub and rotates on the ball joint.
- Control arm / axle beam: structural arm the ball joint mounts into; supports vertical load.
- Tie rod end (related component): connects steering linkage to knuckle and also has a ball joint — inspect at same time.
- Wheel and hub assembly: removed during the process.

Tools and consumables (minimum)
- Heavy-duty jack and rated jack stands or axle stands (tractor-weight rated).
- Wheel chocks.
- Socket set, wrenches (including large sockets for castle nut).
- Breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (use service manual specs).
- Ball joint press kit (C-clamp style press) or appropriate separator/puller. A heavy ball joint press is preferred to avoid damage.
- Pickle fork/ball joint separator (only as a last resort; can damage seals).
- Hammer, drift/punch.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or similar).
- Wire brush, rags, solvent.
- New ball joint(s) and any snap rings, seals, grease fittings, new castle nut and cotter pins.
- Grease gun and recommended grease.
- Safety glasses, gloves.
- Heat source (propane torch) — optional for stuck parts (use carefully).
- Service manual for torque specs and drawings.

Pre-checks and preparation
- Verify the MF35 front uses the exact ball joint style you’re replacing (some classic tractors use kingpins or different assemblies). Compare the part numbers and diagrams.
- Order correct replacement parts (upper, lower, greasable vs. sealed).
- Inspect tie rod ends, wheel bearings, seals and spindle for damage — replace if needed.
- Park tractor on level ground, engage brakes, set PTO neutral, remove key.

Safety first (non-negotiable)
- Chock rear wheels; use quality jack and stands rated for tractor weight. Do not rely on the jack alone.
- Support the tractor on stands at the manufacturer-specified points. Never put any part of your body under the tractor unless it’s on stands.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.
- If heating components, avoid nearby fuel/sharp edges and follow safe torch usage.

Step-by-step removal (typical sequence)
1. Secure and lift
- Chock rear wheels. Set parking brake.
- Loosen wheel lug nuts with tractor on ground slightly if possible.
- Jack tractor at a recommended front lift point (use wheel hub as lift in many tractors) and place heavy stands under axle housing or frame.
- Remove front wheel and place aside.

2. Expose the joint
- Clean the area around the ball joint and knuckle with brush and solvent.
- Apply penetrating oil to the castle nut and threads; allow soak time.

3. Disconnect related parts
- Remove cotter pin from castle nut on ball stud. Remove castle nut.
- Break the ball stud free from the knuckle: use a ball joint separator/pickle fork or press. If using a pickle fork/hammer, expect to scar metal and potentially damage a boot; use press where possible.
- If the lower/upper joint is retained by a snap ring or circlip, remove that with snap ring pliers once the area is accessible.
- If the ball joint is pressed into the arm, use a ball-joint press to press it out from behind. Follow press kit instructions; support the arm to avoid bending it.

4. Remove the joint housing
- Once the joint is freed from the knuckle and any retaining rings removed, press the joint out of the control arm or axle housing. Keep any shims or spacers in order and note orientation.

5. Clean and inspect surrounding parts
- Wire brush the bore, control arm seating area and knuckle inner bore. Inspect for cracks, scored or gouged surfaces and excessive looseness in the knuckle or arm bores. If bores are elongated or damaged, replacing or re-bushing the arm/knuckle may be needed.

Installation (typical sequence)
1. Prepare new joint
- Confirm new joint matches old one in size, orientation and greasability.
- If greasable, lightly pack with recommended grease if specified.

2. Press in the new joint
- Use the ball joint press kit and adapters to press the new joint into the control arm or housing squarely. Ensure the stud points in correct direction (usually downward toward wheel hub).
- If snap ring required, install new snap ring into groove before pressing fully home if specified.
- Do not hammer the body of the new joint into place — use a press or the correct sized driver to avoid distorting the joint.

3. Reassemble knuckle to stud
- Insert stud into the knuckle socket.
- Install the castle nut and torque to manufacturer specification (do not guess). If nut has timing position for cotter pin, torque to spec, align cotter pin hole, then insert cotter pin and bend ends.
- If the joint is a tapered fit with a stud, ensure the seat is clean and the taper fits correctly.

4. Reattach related parts
- Reconnect tie rod end or other steering links; replace cotter pins as needed.
- Grease the joint through the zerk until fresh grease appears at the boot (if greasable). Do not overfill to the point of tearing the boot.

5. Refit wheel and lower tractor
- Reinstall wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts.
- Lower tractor from jack stands carefully.
- Torque wheel lug nuts to the proper spec.

6. Final checks
- With the tractor on the ground, check steering travel and look/listen for binding, clunks or excessive play.
- Road/field test at low speed. Recheck castle nut torque and wheel lug torque after first few hours of operation.
- After a short break-in and first use, re-grease if required and re-inspect cotter pins and torques.

What can go wrong (during failure or repair) and how to avoid it
- Boot damage: Tearing the dust boot allows contamination and rapid wear. Avoid using pickle forks on serviceable boots; use a press.
- Incorrect part/fit: Installing wrong-size joint causes poor fit and premature failure. Verify part numbers and compare old vs. new.
- Broken stud or cross-threading: Over-torquing or cross-threading the stud/nut can damage threads; always torque to spec and use the correct nut. Replace damaged nuts/studs.
- Pressing damage: Pressing at the wrong point can bend control arm or knuckle. Support parts and use correct press adapters.
- Failure to clean mating surfaces: Dirt or burrs cause poor seating and misalignment. Clean and inspect carefully.
- Not replacing related worn parts: A new ball joint on a worn knuckle or control arm bore will fail early. Inspect and repair bores, spindle, tie rods, and bearings if needed.
- Inadequate supports: Jack failure can crush or injure. Use rated stands and never work under unsupported load.
- Missing grease or overgrease: Under-lubrication shortens life; overgreasing can bust seals. Follow grease manufacturer/part instructions.

Inspection checklist after repair
- No free play at wheel with tractor raised (hold wheel and check for play).
- No clunks when steering full lock.
- Correct grease in joint and intact boot.
- Castle nut torqued and cotter pin installed.
- Wheel bearings OK and wheel running true.
- Wheel lug nuts torqued correctly.
- Steering geometry/alignment is roughly correct (if steering feels off, check toe and track rods).

Troubleshooting after reassembly
- If you still have play: re-check castle nut torque, check snap ring presence, inspect bores for wear.
- If steering is stiff after install: check for binding in the joint orientation, replace if installed backwards or seating is off.
- If grease leaks: remove and inspect boot and seal; ensure correct part.
- Excessive tire wear continues: check wheel bearings and alignment, worn knuckle bores, bent arms.

Maintenance tips to extend life
- Keep boots intact; replace torn boots immediately.
- Grease serviceable joints regularly per manual intervals.
- Inspect joints at seasonal maintenance or if steering feels loose.
- Replace ball joints in pairs (left and right) to keep symmetrical wear and handling.

Final notes and model specifics
- The MF35 is an older tractor and some variants use kingpin-style front ends or different joint arrangements. Confirm the joint type on your tractor before ordering parts. Use the MF35 workshop manual for exact part numbers, exploded views and torque values — torque numbers and some retaining methods (snap ring vs pressed) vary by year and axle type.
- If you do not have a ball-joint press and the joint is pressed in, a machine shop or competent tractor mechanic can press the joint properly without damaging parts.

That’s the complete practical guide. Follow safety steps, use the right tools (particularly a ball-joint press), inspect related parts, and use the service manual for exact torque and part numbers.
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Parade Tractor Massey Ferguson 35

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