Tools needed
- Metric spanners and socket set (8–19 mm typical). Ratchet and extensions.
- Torque wrench (0–100 Nm range).
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips).
- Pliers (locking and regular).
- Fuel line pliers / hose pullers.
- Small gasket scraper or razor blade.
- Wire or marker for tagging lines.
- Clean catch container for diesel/petrol and rags.
- Bench vise (if rebuilding pump) and small punch/drift.
- Soft-faced hammer.
- Carb/parts cleaner and brush.
- New gaskets, O‑rings, copper crush washers, and a pump rebuild kit or replacement pump.
- Thread locker (medium strength) and engine oil for assembly lubrication.
- Safety: gloves, eye protection, fire extinguisher.

Safety precautions
- Work in a well‑ventilated area. No open flames or smoking.
- Disconnect battery negative terminal.
- Allow engine to cool. Hot engines and fuel lines cause burns.
- Catch all fuel in an approved container; dispose/clean safely.
- Keep rags and spills away from ignition sources.
- If working on the injection pump (timing), understand risk of engine damage if mistimed — follow timing procedure exactly.

Context: lift (low‑pressure) fuel pump vs injection (high‑pressure) pump
- MF35 tractors commonly have a mechanical lift (transfer) pump and a mechanical injection pump on diesel engines. The lift pump is straightforward to remove/replace or rebuild. The injection pump controls timing/quantity — removal/replacement and timing requires care and ideally a shop manual or specialist. Below are step‑by‑step procedures for both, starting with the lift pump (most common service).

A. Remove / Replace or Rebuild the mechanical lift (low‑pressure) fuel pump
1) Preparation
- Park tractor on level ground, chock wheels.
- Shut off engine, disconnect battery negative.
- Put on gloves/eye protection; place catch container under pump and have rags ready.
- Relieve any pressure by opening a downstream bleed screw or loosening a fuel line fitting slowly.

2) Tag and disconnect fuel lines
- Mark inlet and outlet lines with tape/marker so you don’t swap them.
- Loosen hose clamps or fittings with appropriate spanner; remove inlet, outlet, and return (if fitted). Catch fuel into container.

3) Remove pump
- Remove mounting bolts (usually 2–3) with socket or spanner. Support pump as bolts are removed.
- Remove pump from engine block. Inspect mounting face; scrape old gasket clean with gasket scraper.

4) Inspect / rebuild or replace
- If replacing: compare new pump to old—same inlet/outlet orientation and drive type. Replace gasket, copper washers, banjo bolts as needed.
- If rebuilding: use a pump rebuild kit (diaphragm, valves, gaskets). Disassemble in vise carefully, note orientation of parts. Clean parts in solvent, replace diaphragm and check springs/valves, reassemble lubricating moving parts lightly with engine oil. Do not overstretch diaphragm; ensure valves seat properly.

Tools use notes:
- Bench vise holds pump body gently while you remove screws; use a soft jaw or cloth to avoid damaging castings.
- Punch/drift removes small pins or shafts; keep track of tiny components.
- Socket/wrench for nuts, torque wrench to final torque on mounting bolts.

5) Install pump
- Fit new gasket or use a thin coat of appropriate gasket sealant if specified.
- Position pump so inlet/outlet match lines and drive spindle engages properly.
- Fit and tighten mounting bolts snug, then final torque to manufacturer spec. If spec unknown, tighten evenly to ~15–30 Nm (11–22 lb·ft) for small pump bolts — don’t overtorque; use correct torque when possible.

6) Reconnect lines and bleed/prime
- Refit fuel lines with new copper washers if banjo fittings used. Hand‑tighten then 1/6–1/4 turn more with spanner; avoid crushing fittings.
- Prime the pump: if pump has a priming lever, operate it until firm and no air; if not, crank engine with shutoff or injectors loosened to expel air. Monitor for leaks.
- Reconnect battery and start engine; watch for leaks and ensure steady fuel delivery. Tighten fittings if slight seep occurs after running briefly.

Common lift pump pitfalls
- Swapping inlet/outlet lines — pump will not work or will suck air.
- Reusing old copper washers or gaskets — leads to leaks.
- Not bleeding air from system — causes poor starting or stalling.
- Overtightening banjo bolts and damaging fittings.
- Using wrong pump (orientation or drive type differs) — check part numbers or match mounting flange and drive spline.

B. Injection pump (high‑pressure) — removal/installation and timing (general guidance)
Warning: injection pump timing is critical. If unsure, have a diesel specialist set the timing or follow factory manual with timing tools.

1) Preparation and marking
- Note exact pump orientation and mark the drive coupling or timing marks on the pump housing and engine with paint or scribe before removal. This allows reference reinstallation.
- Set engine to the specified timing position (often TDC or specified camshaft mark for #1 cylinder injection). On Perkins engines you typically rotate to compression stroke of cylinder #1 and align timing marks — use service manual.

2) Disconnect lines and linkage
- Carefully remove high‑pressure injector lines. Plug or cap lines to avoid contamination. Label each line to keep correct cylinder order.
- Disconnect throttle linkage and governor linkage, noting positions.
- Remove any covers blocking access to pump mounting bolts.

3) Remove pump
- Support pump, remove mounting bolts and drive coupling as required. Take note of any shims or spacer plates—keep in order.
- Pull pump straight off. Be careful not to let anything fall into the timing gear cavity.

4) Installation (replacing pump)
- If installing a replacement pump, align the marks made earlier. Fit pump into place ensuring the drive engages fully and the timing marks align.
- Reinstall mounting bolts and torque to spec (consult manual). Reconnect linkage and fuel lines in correct order with new copper washers.

5) Timing and final checks
- Set pump to timing specification: many pumps require the engine to be at a particular mark and the pump rotor or lever aligned with a mark. Use a dial indicator or timing tool if required. Tighten pump mounting bolts after correct alignment and recheck marks after tightening.
- Prime system (as above) and bleed air from pump and lines: loosen injector lines at injectors and crank to see fuel free of air (follow correct priming sequence).
- Start engine and listen; if engine runs poorly or smokes heavily, kill engine and recheck timing and bleed.

Tools use notes:
- Use torque wrench for pump mounting bolts to prevent movement that changes timing.
- Injector line spanners (thin-wall) prevent rounding nuts.
- Use caps/plugs to prevent debris entry; cleanliness is crucial.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Complete replacement pump (if worn or seized).
- Rebuild kit for lift pump: diaphragm, check valves, gaskets, springs.
- Injection pump rebuild should be performed by specialist—kits available but precise calibration needed.
- New fuel hoses, clamps, copper crush washers/banjo bolts.
- New mounting gasket(s) and O‑rings.
- New injector line sealing washers if disturbed.

Common pitfalls / troubleshooting
- Air ingress: poor hose clamps, wrong hose orientation, cracked hoses, bad fittings. Causes hard starting and smoke.
- Wrong pump orientation or timing marks misaligned: can prevent starting or cause engine damage.
- Reused or damaged copper washers / fittings cause leaks.
- Dirt or debris in pump during rebuild: bench clean parts in solvent, use lint‑free rags.
- Over‑tightening lines and fittings: round off nuts or crack fittings.
- Attempting to adjust injection timing by ear: use proper timing marks or tools.
- Trying to use a petrol pump or petrol part on diesel engine (and vice versa) — confirm correct part.

Quick sequence checklist (lift pump)
- Disconnect battery — tag lines — catch fuel — remove mounting bolts — remove pump — fit new or rebuilt pump with new gasket — reattach lines with new washers — prime/bleed — check for leaks — final torque.

Quick sequence checklist (injection pump)
- Mark timing — set engine to spec — tag/label lines — remove lines/linkage — remove pump — install new pump aligned to marks — torque bolts — reconnect lines with new washers — prime and bleed — set/check timing — start and verify.

Final notes
- If injection pump replacement or timing setup is required, get factory torque and timing specs for your MF35 engine (Perkins AD3.152 or petrol variant) from the service manual. If you do not have the manual, consider a diesel specialist for timing and calibration.
- Always use clean diesel/fuel and replace fuel filter(s) when doing pump work.

Done.
rteeqp73

Massey Ferguson Brings MF 35 Tractors to Africa Massey Ferguson helps emerging farmers in Africa promote sustainable agriculture with the mechanisation of farm operations.

How to Adjust Your Ferguson Tractor Governor In this video I run through the adjustments on a petrol Ferguson governor. This is for the tractors with the Standard motor company ...

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