Tools & supplies needed
- Heavy-capacity floor jack or hydraulic transmission jack (3–4 ton min), plus at least two rated axle jack stands (4 ton).
- Wheel chocks, blocks of wood.
- Basic hand tools: 3/4", 5/8", 19 mm, 22 mm, 24 mm (and sockets/wrenches for the fasteners on your MF35) — metric/SAE as required.
- Breaker bar, ratchet, 1/2" drive sockets, extensions.
- Torque wrench (capable to at least 250 ft·lb).
- Pry bars, large screwdrivers, hammer, punch.
- Grinder/cut-off wheel (for cutting shackles or springs if required).
- Welder and welding helmet (only if you will relocate or fabricate spring hangers).
- Spring center bolt tool or heavy clamp, leaf spring clamp(s).
- Replacement parts: new U-bolts, spring shackle pins & bushings, greaseable shackles or new shackles, new spring pack or extra/removed leaves if de-arching, replacement spring eye bushings, anti-seize, locknuts/nylock nuts, paint.
- Penetrant (PB Blaster), wire brush, cleaner.
- Personal protective equipment (safety glasses, gloves, steel toe boots).

Safety precautions (critical)
- Never work under an axle supported only by a jack. Use rated jack stands on a solid, level surface.
- Chock wheels and block the tractor to prevent rolling. Engage parking brake and remove PTO key if applicable.
- Leaf springs are under tension. Use clamps or spring compressors before removing any bolts; release tension slowly and carefully.
- If welding on the frame or spring mounts, drain the fuel tank or isolate it and remove batteries (disconnect negative) to avoid fire/explosion. Keep a fire extinguisher at hand.
- If you are not competent with welding or spring work, use an aftermarket lowering kit that avoids welding or have a trained welder do the work.
- Keep bystanders clear and never place hands or body between compressing spring leaves.
- After modification, test at low speed in a safe area and re-check fasteners/torques.

Overview — common methods for lowering an MF35
- Rear lowering: shorten/modify the rear leaf spring pack (remove a leaf or re-arch), fit shorter shackles, relocate spring hanger to a higher position on axle (requires fabrication/welding), or install an aftermarket lowering shackle kit. Common safe approach: install shorter shackles or replace spring pack with a lower-profile pack made for MF35.
- Front lowering: change/modify front springs or front beam mount position. MF35 front beam uses a transverse leaf or drop beam—lowering often done by re-locating spring mount points or using modified front spring pack. Front lowering may require altering steering geometry/kingpin angles; proceed cautiously.

Step-by-step installation — generic, safe method using replacement lowering shackle kit + rear spring pack adjustment (least welding, reversible)
1) Preparation
- Park tractor on level concrete. Chock front wheels, set parking brake, remove ignition key.
- Loosen rear wheel nuts slightly if you plan to remove wheels (usually not necessary).
- Gather parts: lowering shackles (shorter length / pre-made kit), new U-bolts, new shackle pins & bushings, spring pack or leaf(s) if removing leaf.

2) Support the tractor and relieve spring load
- Place heavy jack under rear axle housing near center to support weight; lift just enough to take load off springs.
- Place rated jack stands under rear axle housing or under frame rails (consult safe support points). Lower jack until weight rests safely on stands but axle still supported by jack.
- Clamp the leaf spring pack with strong spring clamps ahead of removing bolts to prevent leaves from separating.

3) Remove U‑bolts & shackles
- Spray penetrant on U-bolts and shackle bolts; let soak.
- Loosen and remove U-bolts holding axle to leaf spring perch. Keep an eye on load: support axle so it does not drop suddenly.
- Remove shackle bolt(s) at the rear eye and spring hanger bolt at the front eye as required by your kit.
- Carefully lower axle slightly if needed to gain access; do not let axle drop off support.

4) Fit lowering shackles or modify spring pack
- If using pre-fabricated shorter shackles: fit the new shackles between spring eye and frame hanger at rear; install new shackle pins/bushings and greaseable fittings. Tighten finger-tight initially.
- If modifying spring pack by removing a leaf:
- Keep clamps tight.
- Remove center bolt and any rebound clips only as needed, then remove one or more leaves from the pack. Removing leaves will reduce arch and lower height but changes spring rate — do not remove more than manufacturer or experienced-source recommends.
- Replace center bolt and reassemble pack clamps. Replace worn bushings/pins.
- If using a replacement lower-profile spring pack: install the new pack per supplier instructions.

5) Re-attach axle and torque U‑bolts
- Raise axle back into position over the spring perch; install new U-bolts and nuts. Tighten evenly in stages to the recommended torque. If manual torque spec unavailable, tighten to a firm, even seating but obtain factory spec before final use.
- Torque shackle and spring eye bolts to spec if available; otherwise tighten securely then re-check after first operation.

6) Front lowering (if kit includes front parts)
- Support front axle with jack and stands.
- Remove fasteners for front spring mounts/beam per kit instructions.
- Install new drop brackets or new front leaf pack as supplied by kit manufacturer.
- Reassemble steering linkages; check for interference and proper steering geometry. Tighten all fasteners to spec.

7) Final checks
- Grease new pins and fittings.
- Lower tractor back onto tires; remove stands and lower jack carefully.
- Torque all U-bolts, shackle bolts and spring eye fasteners to factory specifications (consult MF35 service manual). If you don’t have a manual, find torque specs before driving.
- Check driveshaft/PTO angle and clearance. Lowering can change driveline angle and cause vibration or premature wear; correct if necessary (driveshaft length/angle, gearbox position).
- Check brake lines, hydraulic hoses, cables for slack or binding; re-route or lengthen if needed.
- Test-drive slowly, listen for noises, check handling. Re-torque fasteners after first few hours of operation.

How the tools are used (specifics)
- Hydraulic jack/transmission jack: support and slowly lift the axle housing to unload springs. Use jack under differential housing and control lift/lower with valve.
- Jack stands: placed under frame rails or axle housing. Lower tractor onto stands slowly; ensure stable seating.
- Spring clamps / C-clamps: installed across leaf pack to maintain alignment and hold leaves together while center bolts or shackles removed.
- Grinder/cut-off: used only for trimming shackles or old bolts; avoid cutting structural members unless instructed and prepared to weld replacement brackets.
- Welder: used when relocating spring hangers or fabricating brackets; tack-weld first, check alignment, then finish weld. Clean paint, wire-brush, and apply appropriate weld procedures for mild steel.
- Torque wrench: tighten U-bolts and pins evenly to specified torque in a criss-cross pattern for U-bolts. Re-check after first use.

Replacement parts commonly required
- New U-bolts (old ones are often stretched/weak).
- New shackle pins & bushings / spring eye bushings.
- Replacement leaf spring pack or extra leaves if re-arching.
- Greaseable shackle fittings or sleeves.
- Locking nuts / nylock nuts or new castle nuts and cotter pins.
- Paint/undercoat for welded areas.
- Possible driveshaft coupling or spacer if driveline angle changes require correction.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Underestimating spring tension: never remove bolts without clamps and supports; springs can release violently.
- Weakening springs by removing too many leaves: this changes ride and load capacity; remove no more than recommended; better to replace with a purpose-built lower spring pack.
- Changing driveline/PTO angles: lowering rear without considering gearboxes can cause vibration and u-joint failure. Check driveshaft angles and correct if necessary.
- Steering geometry changes: front lowering can change caster/kingpin angles; improper lowering can cause poor steering and unsafe handling. Use kits designed for your model or consult a suspension specialist.
- Using old U‑bolts: reused U-bolts can fail. Always fit new, correctly sized U-bolts.
- Improper welds or DIY fabrication without experience: can fail under load—get a qualified welder.
- Not re-torquing: fasteners can settle; re-torque all fasteners after first 50–100 miles (or equivalent operation) and periodically thereafter.
- Legal/operational issues: reduced ground clearance may impair PTO clearance, plow operation, or farm safety; consider intended use.

Final advice
- Best practice is to use a lowering kit made specifically for the MF35 or have a competent machine shop/welder install a custom solution. If you choose to modify springs yourself, replace worn bushings and U‑bolts and correct any driveline or brake routing issues afterward. Test slowly, re-check fasteners, and ensure safe handling before regular use.

No Yapping.
rteeqp73

Part 3. MF 35 Rebuild. Transmission. It's time for rebuilding the gearbox. #tractor #subscribe #masseyferguson #restoration #rebuild #transmission #gearbox.

Restored 1958 Massey Ferguson 35. 4 cylinder This is a beautifully restored tractor of a high quality.

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