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Massey Ferguson MF35 tractor factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & consumables
- Metric/imperial socket & spanner set (3/8" & 1/2" drives), extensions, ratchet
- Torque wrench (suitable range for bellhousing/gearbox bolts)
- Screwdrivers, punches, soft mallet
- Circlip (snap‑ring) pliers
- Transmission jack or heavy floor jack + wooden blocks / axle stands
- Engine support/chain hoist or second jack (to support engine if gearbox removed)
- Pry bar
- Bearing puller (only if bearing stuck on shaft) / drift
- Wire brush, brake cleaner / degreaser, rags
- High‑temp bearing grease, light oil
- New release/throw‑out bearing (correct MF35 part), new circlip if applicable, new gearbox input seal and pilot bearing if worn
- Replacement bolts/gaskets as required (use manual)
- Wheel chocks, safety glasses, gloves

Safety first
- Work on level ground. Chock wheels; engage park/handbrake.
- Disconnect battery negative.
- Use proper jack stands and transmission jack. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Support engine if gearbox is separated; keep a second person or engine hoist available.
- Wear eye protection; keep hands away from crush points.

Overview
On the MF35 the throw‑out (release) bearing is on the gearbox input shaft inside the bellhousing. Access normally requires separating the gearbox from the engine (remove gearbox) or removing the bellhousing/inspection cover and sliding the bearing off the input shaft. Typical procedure below assumes full gearbox removal for safe, reliable replacement.

Step‑by‑step

1) Preparation
- Park tractor, chock wheels, disconnect battery.
- Place tractor in neutral, engage parking brake.
- Lower any mounted implements and secure tractor on stands if required to access gearbox.

2) Remove external items and linkages
- Remove PTO/propshaft or driveline as required to allow gearbox removal.
- Remove gear lever/top cover if it interferes (loosen selector linkage).
- Disconnect clutch linkage/rod from release arm at gearbox.
- Disconnect any hydraulic lines, speedo cable, electrical connectors, PTO linkage attached to gearbox.
- Drain gearbox oil if needed to avoid spillage when separating (catch pan).

3) Support gearbox & engine
- Position transmission jack under gearbox with wood blocks to protect castings.
- Support engine with engine hoist or a strong jack under sump/engine mount if gearbox will be lowered; check for engine/transmission mount bolts that retain engine alignment.
- Loosen engine‑to‑gearbox bolts progressively in a cross pattern but do not remove until gearbox is fully supported.

4) Unbolt and separate gearbox from engine
- Remove bellhousing bolts (marked pattern) while supporting gearbox with the transmission jack.
- Carefully slide gearbox rearwards off the engine dowels/input shaft. You may need to gently pry but avoid levering against the clutch cover.
- Lower gearbox on the jack and move it out to allow access to clutch area.

5) Access release bearing
- With gearbox separated, shift gearbox to expose input shaft and release bearing.
- If the release bearing is on a sleeve or carrier, remove any retaining circlip with circlip pliers.
- Slide the release bearing assembly off the input shaft toward the rear of the gearbox.
- If it’s stuck, use a small bearing puller or carefully drive out with a suitably sized drift, protecting shaft splines.

6) Inspect surrounding components
- Inspect release fork (or slave) for wear, bends or mushrooming where it contacts bearing. Replace if worn.
- Inspect input shaft splines for wear and damage.
- Inspect clutch cover/pressure plate, friction plate and pilot bearing (in crankshaft) for wear; if disc is glazed/oily or rivets are near limit, replace the clutch kit.
- Replace gearbox input oil seal (rear main seal on engine) while accessible.

7) Install new release bearing
- Clean input shaft and carrier bore with degreaser; dry.
- Lightly coat the bearing inner bore or the shaft sliding surface with a smear of high‑temp grease (small amount). Do not grease the face of the bearing that contacts the pressure plate.
- Fit new circlip/new retaining hardware as applicable.
- Ensure bearing orientation: for MF35 the open side (the side with visible rollers/cage) faces the pressure plate/clutch cover; the flat/retainer side faces away. (If unsure, match orientation to old bearing.)
- Slide bearing onto input shaft until it seats against its shoulder or carrier.

8) Re‑assemble gearbox to engine
- Clean mating faces of bellhousing and engine.
- Reposition gearbox on the transmission jack and align with engine dowels; carefully slide gearbox forward avoiding thrusting the shaft into the clutch—line up splines with the clutch disc.
- Guide the gearbox in until it seats; you may need to rotate input shaft to align splines. Do not force; if it doesn’t slide in, check alignment and clutch release plate alignment.
- Tighten bellhousing/gearbox bolts hand tight, then torque to specification (refer to service manual).
- Reattach engine/gearbox mounts, linkages, electricals, PTO/driveline and fill gearbox to correct oil level.

9) Adjust and test
- Reconnect clutch linkage and adjust free play according to MF35 spec (a small amount of free travel at pedal ensures release bearing is not constantly loaded).
- Reconnect battery, start engine and with tractor still supported, check clutch operation: depress pedal slowly, listen for abnormal bearing noise, ensure smooth engagement.
- Road/test run slowly, check for leaks and re‑check bolt torque after first use.

How each tool is used (key points)
- Transmission jack: cradle gearbox, raise/lower smoothly. Use wood blocks to protect castings. Keep it centered before unbolting.
- Engine hoist/engine support: prevents engine tilting when gearbox separates.
- Circlip pliers: compress and remove/install retaining clip on bearing sleeve—use correct orientation to avoid clip deformation.
- Bearing puller/drift: only use if bearing is frozen—pull straight and protect splines; excessive force can damage shaft or bearing carrier.
- Torque wrench: tighten bellhousing and clutch bolts to spec; under/over torquing can cause misalignment or stripped threads.

Replacement parts recommended
- New throw‑out (release) bearing (OEM MF35 part number for your serial range)
- New circlip/retaining ring (if fitted)
- Gearbox input oil seal / rear main seal if weeping
- Optional: clutch kit (pressure plate, disc, pilot bearing) if plate is worn/oily
- Light high‑temp grease; replacement bolts/gaskets as required

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not supporting engine: engine can tilt/damage mounts—always support before removing gearbox.
- Forcing gearbox onto misaligned splines: causes clutch disc wear or damage to splines—rotate input shaft and align splines, use guide bolts if needed.
- Greasing the friction face of the bearing or clutch disc: causes clutch slip. Only grease shaft sliding surfaces lightly.
- Reusing damaged circlips or worn release forks: leads to premature failure—replace worn hardware.
- Incorrect bearing orientation: will prevent proper release and cause noise/clutch drag—match old bearing orientation.
- Not inspecting clutch disc/pilot bearing: new bearing on worn clutch will fail or cause clutch chatter—inspect and replace if doubtful.
- Failing to torque bolts to spec: leads to misalignment or leaks—use torque wrench and manual specs.

Final checks
- Confirm clutch pedal free play and smooth operation.
- Check for leaks and bearing noise during slow engagement.
- Re‑check fasteners after first few hours of operation.

End.
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