- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and long sleeves to protect from fluid and metal shards.
- Work on level ground, chock opposite wheels, and remove key from ignition.
- Use a quality jack and rated jack stands or heavy-duty ramps; never rely on a jack alone.
- Relieve/isolates hydraulic pressure before disconnecting lines (park with engine cold and hydraulics neutral).
- Keep rags and a drain pan ready; hydraulic/brake fluid is slippery and environmentally hazardous — collect and dispose of used fluid properly.

- Tools you already said you have (basic tools) — how to use them
- Open-end/combination wrench set
- Description: fixed open jaw on one end and box end on the other, sizes in metric and/or imperial.
- Use: fit the correct wrench size to nuts/bolts, pull smoothly; use box end on stubborn fasteners to avoid rounding.
- Adjustable wrench
- Description: single movable jaw adjustable across sizes.
- Use: for odd-size nuts or to hold components while another wrench turns; not for final torque on critical fittings (use proper size).
- Socket set and ratchet
- Description: ratchet handle and sockets to fit hex heads; extensions help reach tight spots.
- Use: choose correct socket size, keep socket fully engaged on the nut, pull rather than jerk to avoid rounding.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- Description: standard drivers for clamps, brackets, retaining screws.
- Use: choose correct tip and size, keep tip square in slot to avoid cam-out.
- Hammer and punch
- Description: small ball-peen or claw for freeing stuck clips or pins.
- Use: tap gently to free seized clips; do not hit hydraulic fittings directly.

- Specialized tools you will likely need (explain why and how to use)
- Flare-nut (line) wrenches
- Why required: brake/brake-type hydraulic line fittings use a soft hex; flare wrenches grip more sides to avoid rounding.
- How to use: fit the wrench squarely over the fitting, hold the line steady with one flare wrench while turning the other to prevent twisting the tube.
- Tubing cutter (rotary)
- Why required: to make clean, square cuts on steel brake/hydraulic tubing for proper flaring or installation.
- How to use: clamp cutter on tube, rotate while tightening until cut through; leave a clean edge for deburring.
- Deburring tool / small file
- Why required: removes burrs inside/outside of the cut tube to allow correct sealing and flare formation.
- How to use: run the blade inside the tube to remove sharp edges, lightly file outside edge.
- Tube bender (hand bender or spring bender)
- Why required: to form the brake line to match routing without kinking; prevents weak spots.
- How to use: place tubing in bender, bend smoothly to match original shape; use multiple small bends rather than one sharp bend.
- Flaring tool kit (single or double-flare depending on original fittings)
- Why required: brake lines commonly use double flares (or bubble flares in some systems); fittings must match.
- How to use: secure tube in the die, tighten clamp, use the flaring bar and adapter to form the correct flare per kit instructions. Verify the old fitting to match flare type before flaring.
- Bench vise
- Why required: to hold tubing steady while cutting, deburring, or flaring.
- How to use: clamp tubing gently but securely — use soft jaws or cloth to avoid denting.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Why required: frees seized fittings and rusted clamps.
- How to use: spray on fittings, wait 10–15 minutes, tap lightly to help penetrate, then use flare wrench.
- Drain pan and absorbent pads
- Why required: capture used hydraulic fluid and keep the workspace clean.
- How to use: position under fittings before loosening; wipe any spills immediately.
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Why required: to tighten fittings to manufacturer spec and avoid leak or over-tightening.
- How to use: set required torque and tighten until wrench clicks or indicates set value.

- Optional but very helpful tools
- Pressure bleeder or one-person brake bleeder kit
- Why required: simplifies bleeding and ensures no air remains in the system.
- How to use: connect to reservoir, pressurize per kit, open bleeders one at a time until clear fluid flows.
- Line bending springs (for small-diameter tube)
- Why required: prevents kinking when bending by hand without a bender.
- How to use: slide spring over tube where bend will be, bend, then remove spring.
- Replacement pre-bent brake line(s) or flexible hose assemblies (if available)
- Why required: saves time and avoids the need for flaring/bending; match original shapes and fittings.
- How to use: install like original line, using correct fittings and torques.

- Parts likely required and why
- Replacement brake/hydraulic line(s)
- Why: rust, corrosion, cracks, or crushed sections require replacement to avoid leaks and brake failure.
- What to get: exact-diameter tubing with correct material (steel or stainless) and correct end fittings (double-flare or bubble-flare or banjo bolt style) to match the tractor. If unsure, bring the old line to parts supplier or reference MF50B parts manual.
- New flare nuts, olives (if compression-type), or new banjo bolts and crush washers
- Why: old soft fittings and washers often deform; reusing can cause leaks.
- What to get: fresh flare nuts and correct crush washer material (copper or copper/steel) sized to the banjo bolt.
- New hydraulic/brake fluid
- Why: system will lose fluid when lines are opened; you must refill and bleed.
- What to get: check MF50B manual for fluid type — many tractors use transmission/hydraulic oil (e.g., ATF/gear oil) rather than automotive DOT brake fluid. Use the specified fluid only.
- Replacement flexible hose (if present between chassis and axle)
- Why: flexible hoses age and crack; often best replaced rather than reused.
- What to get: hose rated for brake/hydraulic use, correct length and fittings.

- How to identify fittings and flare type quickly
- Inspect old fittings: a thin nut with tube flared under it is usually a double flare; a banjo bolt has a hollow bolt and uses crush washers.
- Match the profile: double flare looks like a neat 45° inverted flare on tube end; bubble flare is rounded.

- Step-by-step procedure (bullet format)
- Prepare vehicle and workspace: chock wheels, lift and support with jack stands if needed, remove wheels if necessary to access lines.
- Photograph and map the routing of the existing line and note any clips or brackets; remove or loosen only what’s needed to free the line.
- Place drain pan under the line and wipe area clean; apply penetrating oil to fittings and wait.
- Use a flare-nut wrench to hold the tube near the fitting and another to turn the fitting; back off slowly to control fluid loss.
- Remove any retaining clips or brackets; unbolt the line from mounts.
- Remove old line and inspect end fittings and mating ports for corrosion or damage; replace mating seals, crush washers, or threads as required.
- If using a pre-made replacement line, compare bends and fittings for match, then install; if fabricating:
- Cut new tubing slightly longer than old line, using tubing cutter for square cut.
- Deburr inside and outside of the tube.
- Bend tubing using tube bender to match original routing; avoid kinks and keep bends gradual.
- Seat tube into flaring tool and form the correct flare type, matching the original.
- Fit new flare nut and tighten by hand, then snug with flare wrench; hold the tube with a second wrench to prevent twisting.
- For banjo fittings, install new crush washers on both sides of the banjo, fit the bolt, tighten to spec (or snug carefully).
- Reattach any clips/brackets; ensure lines do not rub against moving parts and have sufficient clearance.
- Clean up spilled fluid and dispose of it properly.

- Bleeding the brakes/hydraulic circuit
- Refill reservoir with the correct specified fluid to the recommended level before bleeding.
- Use a helper to slowly depress the brake pedal while another opens the bleeder valve briefly to let fluid escape, then closes it before the pedal returns; repeat until clear fluid without air comes out and pedal feels firm.
- If single-person, use a pressure bleeder or vacuum bleeder to draw fluid out through the bleeders until no air bubbles remain.
- Keep reservoir topped up during bleeding to prevent introducing new air.
- After bleeding, re-check fittings for leaks, torque fittings to manufacturer specs if available, and verify pedal firmness and brake operation at low speed before full use.

- Final checks and maintenance
- Inspect for leaks over the next few hours and days of operation.
- Re-torque fittings after initial run (heat cycles can seat connections).
- Replace any brake/fluid reservoir filter or strainer if equipped.
- Record date and parts replaced for future reference.

- Quick troubleshooting if you see leaks or soft pedal after replacement
- Check for loose fittings, damaged flare, or wrong flare type — tighten or refabricate if needed.
- Ensure no air remains — re-bleed carefully.
- Inspect hose routing for pinch/kink or contact with hot/moving parts.

- Notes and cautions
- Do not mix fluid types; use only what the MF50B manual specifies.
- If you are unsure about flare type, fittings, or fluid, obtain the correct parts or have a parts department or mechanic confirm — using the wrong fitting or flare leads to leaks and sudden brake failure.
- If any stage feels beyond your skill (stuck fittings that won’t free, inability to make a correct flare, persistent leaks, or inability to achieve a firm pedal), stop and have a qualified technician complete the repair.

- Disposal and cleanup
- Wipe spilled fluid immediately, store used fluid in a sealed container, and dispose of it per local hazardous-waste rules.
- Clean and lightly oil steel tubing if storing as spare to prevent rust.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

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