1) Safety first
- Park on level ground, engage parking brake, turn ignition off, remove key, and let the engine cool. If you will be working near the ignition system or fuel system, disconnect the battery negative terminal.
Why: prevents unexpected starting, sparks, burns or fuel ignition while you work.

2) Understand what the choke cable does (theory)
- The choke cable operates the choke valve/plate on the carburettor. Closing the choke reduces incoming air and enriches the fuel–air mixture so a cold engine can ignite and run. If the cable sticks, is broken, or the choke plate fails to move, the engine will be hard to start cold (too lean) or will flood and run badly if the choke is stuck closed (too rich).
Why: knowing this explains why free, correct travel of the cable is essential for cold starting and mixture control.

3) Diagnose the fault (ordered checks)
- With engine cold and ignition off, move the choke control from fully open to fully closed and watch the carburettor choke plate/linkage. Observe cable movement along its sheath for kinks, frays, rust, breaks, or binding points.
- Check both ends: knob/lever connection and carburettor lever/pin. Check return spring and choke plate free movement by nudging it by hand.
Why: isolate whether problem is cable (mechanical binding/break), linkage (seized pivot/spring), or carburettor internal (choke plate stuck).

4) Minor fix: free and lubricate (if cable intact but stiff)
- Detach the cable at one end (usually the carburettor lever or the dash knob retainer) so you can move the inner wire freely. Use light penetrating oil or a PTFE spray sparingly on the inner wire where it enters the sheath; operate the cable repeatedly to work lubricant in. Lubricate choke pivot points and springs on the carburettor with light oil.
Why: corrosion and dry friction inside the sheath cause binding; lubrication restores free movement, allowing choke plate to travel correctly and restore proper mixture control.

5) Repair outer sheath or ferrules (if outer is damaged)
- If the outer sheath is crushed, torn, or has no secure end ferrules, replace the sheath or fit proper end ferrules so the inner wire has a clean bearing and the sheath cannot be pulled through. Cut out the damaged section and either fit a replacement cable assembly or use a correctly sized outer housing (and ferrules) to restore support.
Why: a compromised sheath lets the inner wire rub, kink or seat incorrectly so the choke doesn’t fully close or open. A proper sheath and ferrules restore correct mechanical leverage and travel.

6) Replace inner cable (if frayed, broken, or very stiff)
- Remove the old cable fully: disconnect at knob/lever and at carburettor. Pull it out of the sheath. Fit a new cable of correct length and diameter; feed it through the sheath so there is smooth, continuous travel. Attach secure end fittings at both ends and ensure the cable seats in the carburettor linkage correctly.
Why: a fresh inner cable eliminates worn or broken strands and restores predictable movement and strength, so the choke responds reliably.

7) Fix seized choke plate or linkage (if cable not at fault)
- With cable disconnected, free the choke mechanism: remove dirt/varnish using carb cleaner, free seized pivots by gentle persuasion and lubricant, replace weak or broken return spring, and ensure choke plate returns fully to the open position when released. If the choke shaft is corroded or the plate warped, repair or replace the carburettor component.
Why: even with a good cable, a seized pivot or broken spring will prevent correct choke operation; freeing or replacing these parts restores the intended mechanical action.

8) Reinstall, set travel and secure
- Reconnect cable ends. With choke knob fully closed, check that the choke plate is fully closed but not over-stressed against its stop; with knob fully open, plate should be fully open. Adjust cable slack at the carburettor or at the knob so you have full travel without binding. Tighten any clamps and refit retainers.
Why: correct end-play and stops ensure the choke provides the right mixture enrichment and prevents mechanical damage or partial choking.

9) Test and fine-tune
- With battery reconnected, attempt a cold start. Observe starting ease, smoke, and idle. Open choke gradually as engine warms; the engine should settle to normal idle without stalling as the choke is eased off. Adjust idle speed or mixture as required after choke repair.
Why: testing confirms the repaired components give the proper enrichment behavior; fine adjustments ensure the engine transitions from cold to warm running smoothly.

10) How these repairs fix the symptoms (summary)
- Broken inner cable: replacing it restores mechanical linkage so applying the knob actually moves the choke plate; without this the choke could be stuck open (hard cold start) or stuck closed (flooding, smoky running).
- Worn/damaged sheath or missing ferrules: replacing them restores correct cable geometry and prevents inner wire binding or shortening effective travel, so the choke reaches both full open and full closed positions.
- Stiff or corroded cable/pivots: lubrication or replacement removes friction that prevented proper movement, restoring correct choke response and consistent cold enrichment.
- Seized choke plate/weak spring: freeing or replacing these restores actual movement of the choke plate, so the cable control has the intended effect.

Tools/parts checklist (brief)
- Replacement choke cable (or inner wire + sheath + ferrules) sized for MF50B, light oil or PTFE spray, penetrating oil, pliers, screwdrivers, small wrenches, carb cleaner, rags. Battery disconnect tool if needed.

Done.
rteeqp73

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