- Safety first
- Park on level ground, engine off, keys out, handbrake on, wheels chocked front and rear.
- Use a quality hydraulic jack and axle stands rated above tractor weight before working under or beside lifted parts.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and steel-toe boots. Keep bystanders clear.
- If anything looks rusted/unstable, stop and get proper lifting/support equipment — do not improvise.

- What “suspension geometry” means on a TE‑20 (brief)
- On a TE‑20 the important geometry items for handling are front wheel toe and steering play (track rod/tie‑rod, kingpins/steering knuckles), kingpin inclination/wear, wheel bearings, and overall steering box drag‑link condition.
- Rear axle is a simple live axle on the TE‑20; there is little to “adjust” except shackles, spring seat alignment and wheel bearings — most alignment work is at the front.

- Tools you need (each tool explained, how to use it, and why it’s required)
- Hydraulic trolley or bottle jack (2‑ton or larger)
- Use: lift one end of the tractor so you can get wheels off or take load off steering links.
- Why: needed to check kingpin/play, to remove wheels, and to support components during adjustments.
- Quality axle stands (pair) rated above tractor weight
- Use: place under chassis/axle after jacking and lower slowly onto stands.
- Why: safe stable support — never rely on the jack alone.
- Wheel chocks (pair)
- Use: wedge behind wheels not being lifted.
- Why: prevents tractor rolling while working.
- Socket and spanner set (both metric and imperial/common sizes for TE‑20 era nuts)
- Use: remove wheels, loosen/tighten tie‑rod ends, packing nuts, castle nuts.
- Why: basic fastening work.
- Breaker bar and ratchet
- Use: break loose tight nuts; ratchet for quicker removal.
- Why: steering and hub nuts can be tight/rusted.
- Torque wrench (suitable range for axle/steering nuts)
- Use: tighten critical nuts to correct spec (consult manual).
- Why: prevents under/over‑tightening that causes failure or binding.
- Tape measure (1–3 m) and marker
- Use: measure toe distances between specified points on wheels.
- Why: to set correct toe‑in/toe‑out.
- Straightedge or long level (1 m or longer) and string line (or light wire)
- Use: set wheel alignment by checking wheel faces are parallel using strings around wheel rims or straightedge across rims.
- Why: alternative to professional alignment equipment; simple, accurate for a beginner.
- Plumb bob or small level
- Use: check vertical alignment and caster references if needed.
- Why: to confirm wheel tilt or kingpin inclination roughly.
- Feeler gauges or gap gauge
- Use: check steering box lash and clearances where applicable.
- Why: to quantify play before/after adjustments.
- Hammer, soft mallet, and drift/punch set
- Use: free seized castle pins, tap tie‑rod sleeves, or drive out old taper pins.
- Why: many linkages are held with split pins/castle nuts/punched pins.
- Ball‑joint/tie‑rod separator (pickle fork) or adjustable puller
- Use: separate tie‑rod ends/drag link from steering arm without damaging threads.
- Why: required to remove worn ends for replacement.
- Bearing puller or hub puller (small)
- Use: remove hub or wheel bearings if you need to inspect/replace them.
- Why: wheel bearings wear causes steering looseness and must be replaced correctly.
- Grease gun and appropriate grease
- Use: pack wheel bearings, grease kingpin/steering nipples.
- Why: lubrication is essential to reduce wear and maintain geometry.
- Wire brush and penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Use: clean rust and free seized bolts.
- Why: prevents damage when loosening old fasteners.
- Caliper or vernier (optional but useful)
- Use: measure play in kingpin bore or bush diameter.
- Why: helps decide if replacement of bushes/kingpins is required.
- Hammer and cold chisel (for stubborn split pins)
- Use: drive out or spread split pins.
- Why: original hardware often uses split pins/castle nuts.
- Hydraulic press or kingpin removal tool (specialty)
- Use: press out kingpins and press in new kingpins/bushes.
- Why: removing and installing kingpins/bushes without a press risks damage — required when bushings/kingpins are worn beyond limits.
- Note: if you don’t have a press you can use a workshop with a press or a specialist.

- Preparatory checks (before any adjustment)
- Check and correct tyre pressures on both front wheels to identical psi per tyre markings.
- Inspect tyres for uneven wear — this indicates geometry or bearing issues.
- Ensure wheel bearings have no play: jack each front wheel, hold top and bottom of tyre and rock — if play, investigate bearings/kingpins.
- Check steering for free play: with engine off, person at wheel, another at front wheels move steering and watch linkage to see where play occurs.
- Grease all grease nipples to make sure lubrication is good before measuring.

- How to measure toe and set front alignment (practical step‑by‑step)
- Prepare:
- Lift any weight off the front enough to turn the wheels freely if needed, or do on ground if safe and level.
- Chock rear wheels.
- Mark reference points:
- Put tape or small marks on the front and rear faces of each front wheel rim at the same vertical height (e.g., center of hub).
- Measure across from mark to mark on opposite wheel at front face, then at rear face. Toe‑in = (rear measurement) − (front measurement).
- String method (alternative):
- Run two parallel strings along both sides of the tractor passing close to the wheel rims (same height), measure the gap between string and rim at front and rear of each wheel.
- Adjust until distances front and rear are equal for parallelism or set desired toe‑in (small amount recommended, typically slight toe‑in).
- Adjust track rod/tie‑rod:
- Identify adjustable tie‑rod sleeve(s) or turnbuckles on the TE‑20 track rod assembly.
- Loosen locking nuts/castle nuts and turn the tie‑rod sleeve to lengthen/shorten until measurement matches desired toe.
- Tighten locking nuts/castle nuts securely and fit new split pins if removed.
- Recheck:
- Re-measure after tightening. If different, repeat until within acceptable small tolerance and both sides equal.
- Final check:
- Lower tractor, sit in seat, turn steering lock‑to‑lock and confirm no tight spots; recheck toe after a short test run.

- Checking and correcting steering play and kingpin wear
- Identifying play:
- With wheels off ground and TRUCK in neutral, grab the wheel at 3 and 9 o’clock and rock back and forth. Move tie‑rod by hand — excessive movement indicates worn tie‑rod ends or kingpins.
- Tie‑rod ends:
- If tie‑rod end moves in its taper or ball without binding, replace tie‑rod end.
- Use pickle fork or separator to free the joint, then unscrew the tie‑rod end and replace.
- Kingpins and bushes:
- Check vertical movement at top of wheel hub — if hub lifts on steering arm relative to axle, kingpin/bush wear suspected.
- Remove hub and inspect kingpin and bushes for ovality, scoring, or clearance past service limits.
- If worn beyond limits, replacement of kingpin and bushes is required (see parts replacement below).
- Steering box and drag-link:
- Check for slack at input and output shafts. Adjust or overhaul steering box if excessive play persists after fixing tie‑rod and kingpin issues.

- Wheel bearings: check, adjust, replace
- Jack wheel, remove wheel and hub cap, inspect grease and bearings.
- Clean and inspect races and rollers for pitting or scoring.
- Replace bearings/seals if any wear, replace seals to prevent future contamination.
- When refitting, pack bearings with grease and adjust endplay per manual — wheel should rotate freely with no play.

- Parts replacement: when required, why, and common replacement parts for TE‑20
- Tie‑rod ends / track rod joints
- Why: worn ball/taper causes toe change and steering slack.
- Replace when loose, torn gaiter, or play felt.
- Tools: spanner/socket set, puller/pickle fork, torque wrench.
- Kingpins and bushings
- Why: worn kingpin/bushes cause vertical and rotational play, unsafe steering.
- Replace when clearance exceeds service limit, if scoring/oval wear present.
- Tools: hydraulic press or kingpin driver set, drift/punch, press, large hammer only for very small differences (press recommended).
- Wheel bearings and seals
- Why: roughness, play, or pitting will affect wheel alignment and safety.
- Replace as matched sets; always replace seals with bearings to keep grease in.
- Tools: bearing puller, press or driver set.
- Steering arm/knuckle (if cracked or excessively worn)
- Why: damage or worn taper bores can’t be reliably repaired in the field.
- Tools: same as above, possible specialist welding/machining if reconditioning.
- Track rod/drag link adjustable sleeve (if corroded or seized)
- Why: can't adjust toe without a serviceable sleeve.
- Tools: spanners, penetrating oil; replacement sleeve often inexpensive.
- Steering box overhaul kit (if internal wear)
- Why: excessive internal play after external parts replaced.
- Tools: bench tools, puller for steering wheel column, seal drivers; specialist skill helpful.

- Special tools and why they’re required (if you plan to replace kingpins/bushes)
- Hydraulic press or kingpin removal tool
- Required to press out/in kingpins and bushes without damaging components.
- Hub/bearing puller
- Required to remove hubs cleanly.
- Replacement bush drivers or correct sized sockets
- To install bushes squarely to correct depth.
- If you do not own these, plan to:
- Take the knuckle/axle parts to a machine shop or tractor specialist, or
- Borrow/hire tools or have a workshop do the press work.

- Final checks after adjustment or replacement
- Ensure all lock nuts, castle nuts, and split pins are correctly fitted and tightened to spec.
- Repack grease in hubs and grease nipples, remove excess.
- Test drive slowly, check for wandering, pulling, or vibration.
- Recheck toe and play after 10–20 miles (or short field test); parts settle and may need minor retightening.
- Check for leaks (seals) and recheck torque on critical fasteners after initial running.

- Quick diagnostics that indicate replacement is required (don’t ignore)
- Persistent steering play after tie‑rod adjustment → likely kingpins/bush or steering box fault.
- Vertical wheel play or hub clunking → wheel bearings or kingpins.
- Uneven tyre wear across tread → persistent toe or camber problem; check for bent arms or worn bushes.
- Grease leaking from seals or corrosion inside hub → replace seals and bearings.

- Final practical tips for a beginner (short, practical)
- Work one side at a time and keep removed parts in order; take photos for reassembly reference.
- Use penetrating oil and patience on old fasteners; heat can be used carefully by experienced hands.
- If a job requires pressing or welding, use a workshop with the right tools — do not attempt to hammer kingpins out without a press.
- Keep a service manual or parts diagram to confirm sizes, torque specs, and part numbers before buying parts.

- Notes on documentation and torque specs
- Final torque values and service limits for kingpin/bush clearances are model‑specific — consult a TE‑20 workshop manual or parts book before final torquing and before deciding to replace parts.

- Safety reminder (last)
- Never work under a tractor supported solely by a jack. If doing pressing work, secure components properly. If you feel unsure at any stage, stop and use a specialist.


rteeqp73

How to Adjust the Hydraulics on a Ferguson TE20 Tractor Hello Im Lance (aka Bundy Bear) and doing these videos is my hobby. I do own Queensland Tractor Spares in Australia where I ...

Ferguson te20 start up.

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- Quick compatibility note
- The original Massey Ferguson TE‑20 is a very old mechanical tractor and did not come with an electronic TPS (throttle position sensor). If you see a small 2– or 3‑wire sensor on the throttle shaft or carburettor, it’s an aftermarket add‑on. The instructions below cover how to find, test, remove, adjust, and replace a typical aftermarket TPS or potentiometer fitted to a TE‑20.

- Safety first
- Always stop the engine, remove the key, and disconnect the negative battery lead before working on electrical parts.
- Work with the engine cool, wear safety glasses and gloves, and keep loose clothing away from linkages.

- Tools (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Digital multimeter (DMM)
- Description: measures voltage, resistance, and continuity. Essential to test and read TPS output or resistance change.
- How to use: set to Ohms to measure resistance across terminals; set to DC volts to read output if you power the sensor. Touch probes to terminals; read values on display.
- Phillips and flathead screwdrivers (small and medium)
- Description: basic turning tools for screws and small clamps.
- How to use: choose the correct tip size to avoid stripping heads; apply steady pressure and turn.
- Small socket set + ratchet and spare open‑end wrenches (both metric and imperial/SAE)
- Description: for bolts that secure the sensor or bracket; vintage tractors sometimes use odd sizes so a set is handy.
- How to use: pick the socket that fits snugly, attach to ratchet, turn counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten. Use a wrench where socket access is limited.
- Needle‑nose pliers
- Description: long slim pliers for gripping small parts, bending tabs, or pulling connectors.
- How to use: grip small items and pull straight to avoid breaking plastic connectors.
- Wire strippers / crimper
- Description: strips insulation and crimps new connector terminals.
- How to use: choose the correct gauge slot for the wire, squeeze to strip; insert connector and crimp squarely.
- Small pick or awl
- Description: for releasing small locking tabs on connectors.
- How to use: gently press release tabs to unplug connectors.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., WD‑40 or PB blaster)
- Description: loosens rusted or seized fasteners.
- How to use: spray on threads and let soak before attempting removal.
- Contact cleaner / electrical cleaner
- Description: cleans sensor terminals and connectors.
- How to use: spray on connector pins while disconnected, let evaporate.
- Soldering iron and solder (optional but recommended for wiring repairs)
- Description: makes permanent, low‑resistance electrical joins.
- How to use: strip wire, twist, heat and apply solder, insulate with heat shrink.
- Heat shrink tubing / electrical tape
- Description: insulates repaired wires.
- How to use: slide over joint, heat to shrink after soldering.
- Replacement connectors / 3‑pin pigtail (if connector is damaged)
- Description: matching connector for the sensor.
- How to use: crimp or solder pigtail to sensor wires and protect with heat shrink.
- Flashlight or work light
- Description: illuminates tight areas under the dash or near carburettor.
- How to use: position for good visibility.
- Clean rags, small container for bolts
- Description: keep parts organized and clean.

- Locate the TPS (what to look for)
- Inspect around the carburettor throttle shaft, throttle lever, and throttle bracket for a small sensor body with 2 or 3 wires leading from it.
- Typical mounting: bolted to a bracket so the sensor’s shaft or arm rides on the throttle lever or directly on the throttle shaft.
- If you find no sensor and only purely mechanical linkages, your TE‑20 has no TPS and nothing further is needed unless you want to fit one.

- Basic tests for a found TPS (no advanced gear required)
- Visual check
- Look for cracked housing, broken connector, frayed wires, heavy corrosion, or play in the sensor shaft.
- Resistance test (safe, no power required)
- Set DMM to Ohms (Ω).
- Identify 3 terminals: outer terminals are often the ends of the potentiometer, center is the wiper. For 2‑wire sensors, it may be a switch or variable resistor between two terminals.
- With throttle at closed position, measure resistance between one outer and center, then between center and the other outer. Move the throttle smoothly to wide open and watch readings change smoothly. A working potentiometer has a smooth monotonic change in resistance; steps or jumps indicate failure.
- Continuity test for 2‑wire switch type
- Use DMM continuity. At idle the switch may read open; at full throttle it should close (or vice versa). If it does not change, it’s faulty.
- Voltage test (if you want actual signal voltage)
- If harness provides reference 5V (typical in automotive systems), measure DC volts between ground and signal while slowly moving throttle — voltage should move smoothly from low to high. If you must power it externally, use a stable 5V supply and common ground. Do not apply raw battery voltage unless sensor is rated for it.

- Removing a faulty sensor
- Disconnect battery negative.
- Label and unplug the electrical connector (take a photo first if helpful).
- Apply penetrating oil to mounting bolts if needed; let soak.
- Remove mounting screws/bolts with the appropriate screwdriver or socket. Hold the throttle linkage to prevent springs or levers from snapping.
- Remove the sensor gently; note orientation and any spacers or shims used for alignment.

- Installing or replacing sensor
- If replacing, choose a TPS that matches the mounting and electrical style (2‑wire switch, 3‑wire potentiometer). Stock specifics may not exist for a TE‑20 — you’ll likely use a universal TPS/potentiometer sized to fit the throttle shaft or a small shaft adapter.
- Mount sensor in same orientation; tighten bolts snugly — do not overtighten plastic housings.
- Reconnect electrical connector or install new pigtail and crimp/solder connections. Use heat shrink for insulation.
- Reconnect battery negative.

- Adjusting the sensor
- For a potentiometer TPS:
- With the throttle closed, adjust sensor so the output is at the expected low end (typical automotive reference: ~0.5V at closed, ~4.5V at full, but your aftermarket unit may differ). The goal is a smooth, full‑range change without jumpiness.
- If using only resistance test, ensure the wiper’s resistance at closed is near one outer terminal and moves smoothly to the other as throttle opens.
- For a switch type:
- Adjust so it actuates cleanly at the desired throttle position with no binding.
- After adjustment, operate the throttle through full travel and ensure no binding or interference; tighten lock screws.

- Signs you must replace parts and what to replace
- Replace the TPS if:
- Resistance or voltage output does not change, jumps, or is erratic during throttle movement.
- Housing or shaft is physically damaged or corroded.
- Connector pins are broken or severely corroded (replace connector).
- Possible replacement parts
- Direct-fit TPS (if you have an aftermarket system originally installed) or universal throttle potentiometer/TPS sized to match throttle shaft.
- 3‑pin pigtail or replacement connector matching the sensor.
- Replacement screws/bolts if originals are seized or damaged.
- Wire repair materials: new wire, solder, heat shrink.
- Consider a carburettor rebuild kit or throttle bracket if mechanical wear is causing inconsistent throttle movement (wear can make the TPS read unevenly).
- Why replacement is required
- TPS/potentiometers are wear items — wipers and bearings wear out causing jumps or dead zones, corrosion breaks circuits, and broken wires cause loss of signal.

- If your tractor has no TPS but you want to add one
- Why it’s not normally present: the TE‑20 carburettor is mechanical and historically doesn’t use an electronic TPS.
- If adding one for an aftermarket ignition/fuel controller or logging, you’ll need:
- A mounting bracket or adapter to attach a small pot to the throttle shaft.
- A matching potentiometer (shaft diameter, length, and resistance suited to your controller — many controllers want a 5K–100K linear pot; check the controller’s requirements).
- Wiring, connector, and possibly a small 5V reference supply if the controller requires it.
- Extra tools often required: drill and tap for mounting holes, files for shaft adapters, soldering iron for wiring.

- Simple troubleshooting tips (quick)
- If TPS reads fine with meter but system acts odd, check wiring continuity back to the controller and check grounds.
- Clean connectors and sensor area with contact cleaner before replacing parts.
- Make sure throttle linkage moves freely — sticky linkage produces bad readings even with a good sensor.
- Swap in a known good sensor (borrow or buy a cheap one) to confirm problem before extensive wiring repairs.

- Where to get parts
- Automotive parts stores, electronics suppliers (for generic potentiometers), tractor restoration suppliers, or online marketplaces (search “throttle position sensor potentiometer universal” or your aftermarket controller’s recommended part).

- Final concise checklist (no fluff)
- Verify whether a TPS exists.
- Gather listed tools.
- Visually inspect, test with DMM (resistance/continuity), clean connectors.
- Remove, replace, and adjust sensor if tests fail or damage is present.
- Repair wiring/connectors as needed; insulate and secure everything.
- Recheck operation through full throttle travel.

No further questions.
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