Tools & supplies
- Hydraulic floor jack (2‑ton or larger) or shop crane for rear axle
- Heavy duty jack stands (rated for tractor weight) or timber blocks (solid)
- Small hydraulic jack or second floor jack (to support/raise axle)
- 1/2" & 3/4" drive ratchet/impact gun and sockets set (metric and SAE as required)
- Breaker bar (24" or longer)
- Torque wrench (range to cover wheel and U‑bolt specs)
- Open/box wrenches and combination wrench set
- Punch/drift and hammer (2–3 lb)
- Pry bar and large screwdriver
- Wire brush and grinder with flap wheel (for cleaning)
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD‑40 Specialist)
- Cold chisel and propane torch (only if stuck bolts; use extreme care)
- Bench vise (helpful)
- Grease gun and grease
- New replacement parts (see list)
- Safety gear: gloves, safety glasses, steel‑toe boots, ear protection

Replacement parts commonly required
- Complete leaf spring pack for TE‑20 (or individual leaf(s) if repairing)
- Center bolt for spring pack
- New U‑bolt set and spring plate (Grade 8 recommended)
- Shackle pins/bolts and nuts
- Spring eye bushings (bronze or rubber as specified)
- Washers and lock nuts (use new hardware)
- Grease fittings if applicable

Safety precautions (must do)
- Work on firm, level ground. Chock front wheels and set transmission in gear/parking brake engaged.
- Never rely on a jack alone — always support with rated jack stands or solid timber blocks under the axle housing and/or frame.
- Keep bystanders clear. Wear eye protection and gloves. Steel‑toe boots recommended.
- If heating bolts, remove nearby combustible materials, have a fire extinguisher ready, and only use trained personnel.
- Use proper lifting points. If uncertain about weight/support, get help or hoist with a shop crane.
- After reassembly, test slowly and re‑torque fasteners after first hours of operation.

Step‑by‑step leaf spring replacement (TE‑20)
1. Preparation
- Park on level ground, chock front wheels, engage brake/gear.
- Remove loose items from tractor bed/near springs that could fall.

2. Lift & support tractor
- Position floor jack under the rear axle differential housing or axle tube center and raise slightly.
- Place heavy duty jack stands under the rear axle housing or frame rails close to spring hangers. Use two stands (left/right) or robust timber blocks. Lower jack so stands carry the load.
- Place a second small jack under the axle/spring seat as a controllable support to take slack off U‑bolts during removal. This jack will allow you to lower the axle slightly in a controlled manner.

3. Wheel removal (recommended)
- Remove rear wheels to improve access to U‑bolts and shackles. Use breaker bar or impact to break loose lug nuts before jacking if needed.

4. Inspect & free up fasteners
- Apply penetrating oil liberally to U‑bolt nuts, shackle bolts, and spring center bolt. Let soak 10–20 minutes.
- Use breaker bar or impact gun to remove U‑bolt nuts. If nuts/washers are badly rusted, cut them off with grinder/cutoff wheel. Replace any damaged hardware — do not reuse badly corroded U‑bolts.

5. Support axle and unbolt spring
- With the small jack under the axle/spring seat, raise slightly to take load off the spring.
- Remove the U‑bolt nuts and top plate; lift off U‑bolts (you may need to pry the spring slightly to free).
- If the spring is attached to a front hanger pin or rear shackle pin, remove the shackle bolt(s) and front hanger bolt. Use punch/drift and hammer to drive pins out. Support the spring eye with a pry bar to prevent sudden drop.
- Lower the small jack slowly to let the axle move down enough to clear and remove the spring pack.

6. Remove old spring
- Remove center bolt if replacing spring pack. Slide old spring out from front hanger and shackle.
- Inspect hinge eyes, shackles, hangers, axle pad, and spring perch for wear, cracks, or corrosion. Clean mating surfaces with wire brush or grinder.

7. Prepare new spring & hardware
- Assemble the new spring pack on a bench if needed: stack leaves, install center bolt finger tight. Verify orientation (convex face up usually) and that spring eyes/bushings match housings.
- Replace shackle bushings and pins with new parts. Grease fittings where applicable.

8. Install new spring
- Position new spring into front hanger eye first. If front pin uses a bushing, lightly grease and press in.
- Attach rear shackle and insert shackle pin/bolt, hand‑tighten nut.
- Use the small jack under the axle/spring seat to raise the axle so the spring sits on the perch. Align spring center with axle perch and seat the spring center plate over the axle.
- Fit new U‑bolts around the axle and through the spring plate. Install new plate and nuts. Tighten nuts evenly in a crisscross pattern to snug, not full torque.

9. Final torque & checks
- With tractor on stands and axle loaded by the spring (jack at normal height), torque U‑bolt nuts and shackle/hanger bolts to the manufacturer’s specs. If a TE‑20 manual is unavailable, tighten evenly until clamped with no movement and then check torque after initial operation. Use a torque wrench for wheel nuts too.
- Grease the shackle pins/bushings and any fittings.
- Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts to spec.

10. Lower tractor & road/test
- Carefully lower the tractor to the ground.
- Recheck torque on U‑bolts, shackle bolts, and wheel nuts after first hour of operation and again after 10 hours.
- Test drive slowly, listen for clunks or binding and re‑inspect for proper seating.

How each tool is used (key points)
- Floor jack: lifts the axle/tractor; never left as sole support.
- Jack stands/blocks: take the full static load — always use rated stands and place under axle housing or frame.
- Small jack under axle: provides controlled support to lower/raise axle to remove/install spring safely.
- Breaker bar/impact: breaks loose seized nuts. Use breaker bar for controlled torque and impact for speed; heat/cutting for seized corroded hardware.
- Punch/drift & hammer: drives shackle and hanger pins out; use drift supported on bolts to avoid mushrooming.
- Torque wrench: ensures proper clamping force; tighten bolts in stages and evenly.
- Wire brush/grinder: clean seating surfaces to ensure proper contact and prevent uneven loading.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Relying on the jack only: always use stands/blocks. Risk of fatal collapse.
- Reusing worn or corroded U‑bolts, plates, or shackle pins — replace them. Old U‑bolts can fail under load.
- Not replacing bushings/pins — leads to binding, noise, uneven wear.
- Overheating or cutting into spring steel: avoid heating spring leaves; heat only for freeing bolts and with care.
- Not supporting the axle while removing the spring — axle can drop suddenly and injure.
- Improperly centered spring or loose center bolt — causes off‑center loading and early failure.
- Forgetting to re‑torque after initial use — hardware will settle; re‑torque after short operation.
- Over‑tightening U‑bolts such that spring pack is crushed — tighten evenly to specified torque, not to maximum possible.

Quick inspection checklist before finishing
- Spring sits centered on axle perch
- New U‑bolts evenly tightened and not bent
- Shackle pins rotate freely with no excessive play
- All nuts & bolts torqued and cotter pins or locking devices installed
- No binding in suspension through travel

Done.
rteeqp73

How to Adjust the Hydraulics on a Ferguson TE20 Tractor Hello Im Lance (aka Bundy Bear) and doing these videos is my hobby. I do own Queensland Tractor Spares in Australia where I ...

Rebuilding my TO20 Ferguson Tractor - Ep.2

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