Straight, practical how-to: what a sway (anti-roll) bar link does on a TE-20, every component you’ll touch, and a step‑by‑step replacement procedure aimed at a beginner mechanic. No fluff.

Overview / theory (short, with an analogy)
- The anti-roll (sway) bar connects left and right suspension/axle movement so the tractor resists tipping or rolling when one wheel hits a bump. Think of the sway bar as a stout, U-shaped stick across the tractor and the links as the wrist joints that attach the stick to each wheel assembly. When one wheel rises, the bar twists and transfers some of that motion to the other side, reducing body roll.
- A failed link (worn bushing, broken pin, loose bolt) lets the bar flop, causing clunks, excess lean, and poor handling. Replacing the link restores the connection and the bar’s effectiveness.

Common symptoms
- Clunk or knock over bumps.
- Excessive lean or sway in corners.
- Loose feeling front end or wandering steering.
- Visible worn/deteriorated rubber bushings or cracked links.

Components you will see and what they do
- Sway (anti-roll) bar (bar): a curved steel bar spanning left-right. It resists roll by twisting.
- End links (links): short rods that connect the bar ends to the axle or control arm. One per side. They transmit torque from bar to wheel assembly.
- Link fasteners:
- Bolt or stud: passes through link eye and mounting bracket.
- Nut: secures the bolt.
- Washer(s): distribute load and protect parts.
- Cotter pin / castellated nut (if present): secondary mechanical lock to keep nut from backing off.
- Bushings: rubber or polyurethane sleeves that sit between link eyes and bar/brackets to absorb vibration and allow pivoting.
- Brackets/clamps: hold the bar or mount the link to axle or frame.
- Grease fitting (zerk) (if fitted): allows lubrication of the bushing or joint.
- Frame/axle/arm: the fixed parts that the links attach to.

Tools & supplies (get these before starting)
- Jack(s): hydraulic floor jack and/or bottle jack sized for TE‑20.
- Solid stands or heavy wooden blocks (do not rely on jack alone).
- Wheel chocks.
- Socket set & ratchet, combination wrenches (sizes typically 9/16"–3/4" or metric equivalents depending on hardware).
- Box/Open-end wrenches to hold bolt head while turning nut.
- Torque wrench (recommended) — see note on torque specs.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster / WD-40 type).
- Hammer and punch (for stuck bolts).
- Pry bar.
- Wire brush, rag, solvent (for cleaning parts).
- New link(s) with bushings and hardware (or bushing kit + new bolts/nuts if reusing link rods).
- Replacement cotter pins or locking hardware.
- Grease gun & appropriate grease (if fittings present). Use chassis/automotive grease.
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection.

Safety first (do this every time)
- Work on level ground. Chock rear wheels (if working on front links) and engage parking brake.
- Lower engine and disable starting (remove key) so the tractor can’t be started.
- Support weight with solid stands or heavy blocks under the frame or axle — never rely solely on a jack.
- Keep hands clear of pinch points when lowering parts.

Preparation & inspection
1. Park tractor on level ground and chock wheels.
2. Lift only as much as needed to give working clearance. Place stands under axle or frame.
3. Inspect both links visually: note which direction bolts head face (so you reinstall same way), and whether bushings are cracked/flattened or stud is loose.
4. Spray penetrating oil on fasteners and allow 10–15 minutes soak, longer if rusty.

Removal — step-by-step
(Assuming a typical bar-to-axle link: bar end → link → axle bracket. Adjust for your specific configuration.)

1. Support the bar/axle so it doesn’t drop when link is removed.
- Place a jack or block under the bar or axle near the link to hold position. This prevents sudden movement and reduces stress on the remaining side.

2. Remove the locking hardware.
- If cotter pins are present through a castellated nut: straighten and pull them out with pliers. If rusty, cut with a side cutter.
- Note orientation or mark parts so replacement is identical.

3. Loosen and remove the nut(s).
- Hold the bolt head with a wrench and turn the nut. If the bolt turns with the nut, hold the bolt head or use two wrenches.
- If bolt is seized, apply more penetrating oil, tap gently on the nut with a hammer to break rust, and use a cheater bar carefully. If bolt is badly rusted, be prepared to cut it off.

4. Remove bolt and link from one end first (usually top end or bar end).
- Slide bolt out. If it’s stuck inside a bushing, use a punch or pry tool gently. Avoid prying on the bushing lip excessively if you plan to reuse it.
- Remove the link rod. If rod stuck to ball-stud or eye, pry carefully—don’t twist excessively.

5. Remove remaining attachment (other end) in same way and free the link.
- Remove old bushings and retain washers if reusable; usually replace.

6. Clean mating surfaces.
- Wire-brush rust out of bracket holes, clean bolt threads with solvent and a wire brush. Inspect bracket and bar for cracks or heavy wear.

Inspection points while apart
- Check bar for cracks near where it attaches.
- Inspect brackets for elongation of bolt holes (ovalization). Excess ovalization means bracket needs repair or replacement.
- Check the link rod for straightness and undamaged threads. Replace the whole link if bent or pitted.
- Inspect bushings: if hardened, cracked, or flattened replace.

Installation — step-by-step
1. Prepare new parts: grease bushings if required (some polyurethane bushings should be installed dry or with a supplied sleeve—follow part instructions).
2. If link has a grease fitting, pump a little grease in before assembly to seat bushing.
3. Position link between bar end and axle bracket.
- Start with the end that’s harder to get to (or match the removal order).
- Insert bolt through bracket, bushing, link eye, second bushing, second bracket as appropriate. Orient washers and tapered sleeves as original.
- If bolt must enter from a particular side (as original), match the original direction. This often matters for clearance.

4. Thread nut on by hand until snug.
- Torque to spec: older tractors vary; typical link nut torque is in the 30–80 ft·lb range depending on bolt size. Best practice: consult a TE‑20 shop manual for exact values. Tighten firmly until bushings are compressed and link pivots smoothly with no play.
- If there is a castellated nut, line up the slot with the hole and insert a new cotter pin.

5. Repeat on other side. Support the bar so the bushings seat correctly as you torque the fasteners.

6. Grease: pump new grease into fittings until fresh grease appears at joints (if fittings present). Clean excess.

Final checks
- Ensure nuts are properly locked (cotter pins or locking nuts).
- Verify there is no binding: lift one wheel (on stands or with jack) gently; the link should pivot and the bar should twist smoothly with no clunks.
- Lower tractor and road-test at low speed over bumps to listen for clunks, then re-check fasteners and torque after the first short test run.

What can go wrong (and how to avoid or fix it)
- Seized bolts: prolonged corrosion can fuse bolt to bracket. Avoid brute force—use penetrating oil, heat (careful), or cut bolt off and replace. Replace the nut and bolt.
- Wrong length link installed: a link that’s too long or short can preload the bar or bind suspension; always use a direct-fit replacement for TE‑20 or match original measurements.
- Over-tightening: crushes rubber bushings and kills articulation; torquing just to spec is necessary.
- Under-tightening: allows movement and rapid wear or failure; re-check torque after first few hours of operation.
- Reusing damaged bushings: saves money short-term but will bring noise and failure quickly—replace bushings when in doubt.
- Damaged bracket or ovalized holes: replacing a link into a worn hole will allow free play; repair/weld or replace bracket or use oversize bolt/repair sleeve if necessary.
- Using wrong grease: some synthetic/solvent greases can degrade rubber bushings. Use a standard chassis grease; if polyurethane bushings, use the lubricant recommended with them.

Maintenance tips
- Periodically inspect links and bushings (every 50–100 hours or seasonally).
- Grease fittings at regular intervals (in tractor shop manuals).
- Replace both side links at once if one is badly worn; this keeps geometry symmetrical.
- Keep fasteners tight and cotter pins fresh.

A short checklist to follow right now
- Gather parts: new link(s) + hardware + bushings.
- Gather tools: jack, stands, wrenches, penetrating oil, grease gun.
- Support tractor safely and remove old links one side at a time.
- Clean, fit new parts, torque to spec, grease, test-drive, re-check.

If you want a quick parts list for ordering:
- 2 replacement end links (or 1 if replacing one side).
- 2 sets bushings (per side if needed).
- 4 bolts/nuts/washers (get correct grade & length as OEM).
- 2 cotter pins (or locking nuts).
- Grease fitting(s) if missing.

No Yapping. Follow the safety steps exactly and use the correct replacement parts or consult a TE‑20 parts manual for exact hardware sizes and torque specs if you need exact numbers.
rteeqp73

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Review: Seat for Massey Ferguson TE20 | eparts.shop Call us at 605-403-0120 with any questions you may have, we are always happy to help!

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