- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and steel-toe boots.
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels securely so the tractor cannot roll.
- Support the front axle or wheel with a good-quality hydraulic floor jack and jack stands (or axle stands) placed under solid frame or axle points. Never rely on the jack alone.
- Work with the engine off and key removed; block the steering so it cannot move unexpectedly.

- How to tell a tie rod end needs replacement (why replacement might be required)
- Excessive free play in the steering wheel, wandering steering, or clunking noises while turning: indicates a worn tie rod end ball joint.
- Visible torn or missing rubber boot on the tie rod end, leaking grease, or heavy rust: contaminant ingress will cause wear and failure.
- Side-to-side play felt at the wheel when you rock it with the tractor supported: shows joint wear.
- Bent tie rod after an impact: even if the ball joint looks OK, a bent rod must be replaced for safe steering.
- If any of the above appear, replace the tie rod end; also replace the castle nut and cotter pin with new hardware when reassembling.

- Parts you may need
- Correct Massey Ferguson TE-20 replacement tie rod end(s) — match left/right and thread size. Buy OEM or high-quality aftermarket unit designed for TE-20 or specify thread/length to supplier.
- Tie rod adjusting sleeve (turnbuckle) if corroded or stripped threads.
- Castle nut(s) sized for the tie rod ball stud and new cotter pin(s).
- Grease fitting (Zerk) replacement if the old one is damaged.
- Optional: complete tie rod assembly if the rod is bent or many threads are damaged.
- Why these parts: worn ball joint = steering play; bent rod = geometry changed; bad threads = cannot properly tighten/adjust.

- Tools you will need and how to use each (detailed)
- Combination wrench set (proper SAE sizes for TE-20 steering nuts): use the correctly sized box or open-end wrench to prevent rounding nuts. Place box end fully on the nut and pull steadily. If stuck, use penetrating oil first.
- Socket set with ratchet and deep sockets: faster than wrenches for removing nuts. Fit the correct socket fully over the nut, pull the ratchet handle to break it loose. Use a breaker bar if very tight.
- Breaker bar: long handled non-ratcheting bar for extra leverage on stubborn nuts. Use slow, controlled force; avoid sudden jerks.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD-40 specialist): spray on rusted nuts/threads, let soak 10–20 minutes, then attempt loosening.
- Pickle fork (ball joint separator) or dedicated tie-rod end puller: wedge between the steering arm and taper of the ball stud to separate the joint. Pickle fork will damage the rubber boot of the old joint (acceptable since you are replacing it); a tie-rod puller is cleaner and safer for surrounding components.
- Hammer: use to tap the pickle fork or to give a light blow to the steering arm to free the taper. Use controlled strikes.
- Pliers (needle-nose and slip-joint): remove cotter pins, hold small parts, bend or cut new cotter pins.
- Bench vise or pipe wrench (if you need to hold/turn the rod): use to hold the inner tie rod or adjusting sleeve while undoing the outer end.
- Torque wrench (recommended): when installing the new tie rod end, tighten the castle nut to the correct spec. If you don’t have a spec available, tighten firmly and then install a cotter pin—consult a manual for exact torque.
- Grease gun: if the replacement tie rod end has a zerk fitting, pump several short shots of grease to seat the joint.
- Wire brush and rags: clean mating surfaces and threads before reassembly.
- Floor jack and jack stands or axle stands: support the tractor safely while working on front steering components.
- Safety items: wheel chocks, work gloves, safety glasses.
- Optional but very helpful: steering wheel holder or strap to keep the steering wheel from turning; magnetic trays to keep small parts safe.

- Step-by-step procedure (bulleted, for a complete beginner)
- Block the rear wheels and park on level ground; shut engine off and remove key.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly if you need to remove the wheel to access the tie rod end easily.
- Raise the front and support securely on jack stands placed under the axle or frame—ensure tractor is stable.
- Remove the wheel if it gives better access.
- Locate the outer tie rod end where it connects to the steering knuckle/arm; identify the castle nut and cotter pin.
- Spray penetrating oil on the nut and threads; allow time to soak.
- Straighten and pull out the cotter pin with pliers; discard the old cotter pin and replace with a new one later.
- Use the proper-size wrench or socket to loosen and remove the castle nut. Keep track of any washers or spacers.
- Use a tie-rod puller or insert a pickle fork between the tapered ball stud and the steering arm and strike the fork with a hammer until the stud separates from the arm. If using a puller, follow the tool’s instructions to press the stud out.
- Once separated, unscrew the tie rod end from the tie rod adjusting sleeve or inner rod. Note or mark the number of turns it takes to remove it, or measure the exposed threads/length so steering geometry is close on reassembly (helps preserve alignment).
- Inspect the inner threads and the adjusting sleeve for damage; replace the sleeve if threads are worn or corroded.
- If the tie rod itself is bent or the threads are badly damaged, replace the full rod assembly rather than just the end.
- Clean the steering arm hole and ball stud area with wire brush and rag.
- Prepare the new tie rod end: compare it side-by-side with the old one to confirm correct orientation, thread direction, and overall length.
- Thread the new tie rod end into the adjusting sleeve the same number of turns as the old one (or to the same measured length) so the toe alignment is close. Fine alignment can be done later.
- Insert the ball stud into the steering arm taper. Install the new castle nut and tighten. If you have a torque spec, use a torque wrench to the manufacturer’s spec; otherwise tighten firmly and ensure the nut seats properly against the taper.
- Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut and stud hole; bend the ends around the nut so it cannot back out.
- If the replacement has a grease zerk, use a grease gun to pump grease until the boot is slightly full and fresh grease comes out.
- Reinstall the wheel if removed, lower the tractor, torque wheel lug nuts to the proper spec.
- Test the steering with the tractor on the ground: move the steering wheel and check for proper response, no binding, and no unusual noises.
- Check toe/steering alignment. If you notice significant pull or off-center steering, perform a basic toe adjustment using measurements left-to-right at the front of the rims and the rear of the rims (or take the tractor to a shop for proper alignment).
- Re-check all fasteners after the first few hours of use; retorque if required and ensure the cotter pin remains secure.

- Extra tools that may be required and why
- Ball joint/tie-rod puller set: reduces hammer damage and is easier and safer for separating joints.
- Torque wrench: ensures the castle nut is tightened to proper specification for safety and longevity.
- Hydraulic press or vise: only needed if you are rebuilding or pressing old components off/on; not usually required for simple replacement.
- Service manual for Massey Ferguson TE-20: provides torque specs, part numbers, and drawings—strongly recommended.
- Alignment tools or measuring tapes and a helper: for accurate toe-in adjustment after replacement.

- Quick tips and common pitfalls
- Keep track of how many turns the tie rod end was removed (or measure length) to avoid throwing the steering alignment off drastically.
- Replace cotter pins and any heavily corroded nuts/washers—do not reuse bent or damaged hardware.
- Do not hammer directly on the stud threads; use a puller or strike the steering arm near the taper.
- If the tie rod end is welded or custom-modified on very old tractors, consult a specialist or parts supplier; do not attempt unsafe modifications.
- After replacing, test drive slowly and re-check fasteners and steering play.

- Where to buy parts
- Local tractor parts dealers, Massey Ferguson specialists, or online suppliers listing TE-20 steering/tie rod ends. Provide the tractor model and serial range if available so they supply the correct left/right and thread sizes.

- Final safety reminder
- If at any point a fastener won’t loosen or components appear unusual (welds, aftermarket modifications, severely bent steering parts), stop and consult a tractor mechanic. Steering failures are dangerous—take it to a professional if unsure.

This covers the tools, how to use them, when parts must be replaced, and the detailed steps for a beginner to replace a TE-20 tie rod end safely.
rteeqp73

Vintage Thursday. Using a Ferguson tractor jack to change wheels. Changing the wheels on a 1951 Ferguson TEA 20 tractor Follow me on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/cowfarmerdan/

Road speed record - Massey Ferguson TE20 John Beck's second attempt at road speed record for a Massey Ferguson TE20 on the country roads of Dundee.

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