Straight, practical guide — no fluff. I’ll explain the why and how, describe every relevant component you’ll touch, give a clear step‑by‑step procedure, tools, checks, and what can go wrong. I do not know which TE‑20 engine variant you have (they were fitted with different petrol/diesel engines over the years), so I do not quote a single numeric valve clearance as gospel — I give typical ranges and tell you to confirm the exact spec in the tractor service manual or valve cover lid. Wrong clearances damage the engine.

Short theory (why this matters)
- What valve lash is: the small clearance (gap) between the rocker/adjuster and the valve stem (or tappet) when the valve is fully closed. It compensates for thermal expansion of metal so valves fully seat when hot.
- Why it’s needed: as the engine heats, metal parts expand. If there were zero clearance the valve could be held partly open when hot — loss of compression, burnt valve faces, overheating. Too much clearance wastes cam/lifter life, makes a loud noisy engine, and reduces valve lift (affecting performance).
- Symptoms of wrong lash:
- Too tight: rough idle, hot running, loss of power, blowby, burnt valves, white exhaust smoke, possible valve/spring failure.
- Too loose: loud ticking/rattling from the valve cover area, slower throttle response, premature wear of cam and rocker faces.
Analogy: lash = the tiny gap you leave when assembling a door hinge so it doesn’t bind when the wood expands in heat.

Key components you will see and what they do
- Valve cover (rocker cover): protects rocker assembly and keeps oil in.
- Gasket: seals valve cover to head.
- Rocker arms: levers that transfer the cam/pushrod motion to the valve stem.
- Adjusting screws and locknuts: let you set the clearance between the rocker and valve stem.
- Pushrods: long rods from the lifters/tappets to the rocker arms; transmit cam motion.
- Lifter (tappet): sits on camshaft lobe; follows cam profile and pushes the pushrod.
- Camshaft (in block): eccentric lobes that open valves in timed sequence.
- Valve spring, retainer, valve stem: return the valve closed and keep it guided in the valve guide.
- Cylinder head: houses valves, seats and guides.
- Spark plugs (petrol engines) or injectors (diesel) — may be removed to make rotation easier and to confirm TDC.

Tools and supplies
- Feeler gauge set (both metric and imperial recommended).
- Box/socket set or spanners for valve cover, adjusters, locknuts (often 7/16" or 11mm for older tractors — confirm).
- Screwdriver (flat) or Allen for some adjusters.
- Long socket/ratchet or crank-turning bar for turning the crankshaft (on the crank pulley nut or flywheel).
- Clean rags; degreaser; small brush.
- Torque wrench (if you want to torque rocker cover or critical fasteners).
- Pen and paper to record clearances and sequence.
- Penetrating oil (if studs/nuts are stiff).
- New valve cover gasket (recommended).
- Safety gloves, eyewear.

Preparations and safety
- Work on a cold engine. Valve clearances are measured cold unless manual says otherwise.
- Park on level ground, handbrake on, chock wheels. Disconnect battery negative if you’ll be working around electrical parts often (recommended).
- Remove keys, ensure no accidental start.
- Clean the area around the valve cover to prevent debris falling in when cover is removed.
- Have good lighting.

Overview of the method (simple principle)
- Rotate the engine so the cam lobe for the valve being adjusted is on the cam’s base circle (i.e., the valve is fully closed and rocker/pushrod is loose). Set the feeler gauge between adjuster and valve stem, then set the screw so the gauge slides with slight drag, lock the nut, recheck.

Detailed step‑by‑step procedure
1) Confirm exact valve clearance specs
- Look in the TE‑20 service manual or engine tag. If you don’t have one, search for the correct spec for your specific engine (petrol/diesel). Typical old tractor ranges (NOT guaranteed; verify):
- Intake: ~0.10–0.15 mm (0.004–0.006 in)
- Exhaust: ~0.15–0.20 mm (0.006–0.008 in)
- I repeat: confirm before you finalize adjustments.

2) Remove valve cover
- Remove any air hoses or wiring obstructing the cover.
- Loosen and remove the valve cover bolts/nuts. Lift cover off carefully — retain any baffles or breathers. Remove the old gasket and clean the mating surfaces; don’t let dirt fall into the head.
- Inspect the oil inside for grit or metal particles (a sign of other wear).

3) Identify cylinders and valves
- Identify cylinder numbering on your engine (usually forward-most is #1). Know which rocker controls which valve (intake/exhaust). You’ll adjust each valve individually.
- Note: many older engines have one rocker per valve; some rockers handle both intake/exhaust on different sides of the rocker assembly. Visual check will make this clear.

4) Turn engine to the correct position (base circle / TDC compression)
- With cover off, remove one spark plug (if petrol) to make turning easier and to observe compression if you wish.
- Rotate the crankshaft by turning the crank pulley/flywheel bolt in the engine’s normal rotation direction (usually clockwise seen from the front). Turn slowly.
- For each valve you want to adjust, the correct moment is when the cam lobe that operates that valve is on the low spot (base circle) so the valve spring holds the valve closed; the rocker arm/pushrod will have its minimum lift and you’ll see a tiny longitudinal play in the pushrod/top if you press it lightly. Another practical indicator: when the corresponding cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke both its intake and exhaust valves are closed — both rockers will be loose.
- A reliable method for an inline engine: Rotate the engine to bring cylinder #1 to TDC (compression) — both valves for #1 will be closed; adjust #1 intake and exhaust. Then rotate to bring cylinder #2 to TDC and adjust its two valves, and so on. If you don’t know firing order, you can instead turn the crank 360° between adjustments and use the base circle method for each valve individually.

5) Adjust the clearance
- Identify the valve to adjust. Put the correct feeler gauge blade between the valve stem and the rocker adjuster screw head (or pad), perpendicular to the stem.
- Loosen the adjuster locknut (one or two nuts depending on design).
- Turn the adjuster screw until the feeler just drags when pulled lightly. You should feel light resistance — not tight forcing and not loose.
- While holding the adjuster screw in position (so it doesn’t move), tighten the locknut snugly and recheck the feeler. If the adjuster moves while tightening, loosen and repeat until locked without changing the gap.
- Recheck after a few rotations of the valve train to ensure nothing has settled.
- Repeat for the other valve(s) on that cylinder.

6) Sequence and full set
- Continue cylinder by cylinder (or valve by valve) covering all valves. For an inline-4 with 2 valves per cylinder that’s eight adjustments.
- After all are done, rotate engine two full turns of crank to make sure nothing interferes and recheck critical clearances (random checks on several valves).

7) Reassemble
- Clean valve cover mating surfaces. Fit a new gasket or reuse an undamaged gasket if necessary (recommended to replace).
- Replace valve cover and tighten bolts evenly — don’t over-torque (snug, then a small extra angle; check manual torque).
- Reconnect any hoses or wiring removed. Replace spark plug(s) and related items.

8) Test run
- Start the engine and listen for unusual noise. A correctly adjusted valve train is quiet on a cold start and smooth through warm-up.
- After a short run and cool-down, recheck for leaks around valve cover and re-verify clearances if you think anything moved.

Practical tips and tricks
- Use a small piece of chalk to mark the crank pulley where you start so you can count turns precisely.
- If a pushrod seems loose or finger-play is excessive when the lobe is on base circle, watch it while rotating — bent pushrods indicate trouble.
- Hold the adjuster screw with a screwdriver or special holding tool while tightening the locknut; that prevents the gap from changing.
- Mark each adjusted valve lightly with a marker so you know it’s done.
- Take photos during disassembly if you’re not sure of orientation.

Common problems you may encounter and how to handle them
- Locknut is seized/rounded: apply penetrating oil, use correct-size wrench, and back off carefully. If rounded, use a nut splitter or carefully grind flats.
- Adjuster screw spins when tightening nut: hold the screw while tightening with a second tool; if threads are stripped replace adjuster/rocker or retap threads.
- Rocker studs pull out or are loose: replace studs and ensure threads in head are sound; do not overtighten.
- Valve won’t close fully even with full lash: suspect bent valve, burnt valve seat, weak/broken spring, or stuck valve — remove head for inspection/repair.
- Excessive tappet/clatter after adjustment: recheck clearances, confirm you used correct spec, ensure locknuts are tight.
- Cam or lifter wear (pitted or flattened lobes): replacement required; adjust lash won’t fix mechanical wear.

What to avoid (common mistakes)
- Adjusting hot (unless manual says hot): you’ll set wrong gaps.
- Relying on “look” rather than feeler gauge.
- Overtightening locknuts and rounding them off.
- Not rotating engine in proper direction or forcing rotation — use the correct socket and steady turns.
- Applying gasket sealant under the valve cover gasket (usually unnecessary and can gum up edges).

Quick checklist before you finish
- Confirm all valves adjusted to spec (or recorded).
- Valve cover gasket replaced or in good condition.
- No leaks, cover bolts tightened evenly.
- Engine turns freely through at least two full revolutions after assembly.
- Test run and short recheck after cool-down.

Final reminder
- Confirm the exact valve clearance specs for your specific TE‑20 engine from the official service manual, serial number data, or reliable tractor forum with your engine code. Using wrong numeric clearances causes engine damage.

That’s the complete beginner‑friendly procedure — components, theory, step‑by‑step adjustment, troubleshooting, and what to watch for. Good luck; work methodically and double‑check each clearance with the feeler gauge.
rteeqp73

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