Brief overview and theory (what the valve body is and why you might replace it)
- What it does, in plain language: the hydraulic/control valve body on a TE‑20 is the block of valves and passages that directs hydraulic oil to the hitch/rockshaft and returns oil to the tank. It is the brain/gatekeeper that controls lift, position and draft sensing. Think of it like the faucet and diverter for a shower: the pump is the water supply, the valve body is the control that sends flow to the showerhead (lifting) or returns it to the drain (tank), and the draft/position linkages are the thermostat/sensors that adjust the flow automatically when load changes.
- Why replace it: internal leakage (spool bores and spools worn or corroded), pitted balls/seats, broken springs, seized spools from rust/contamination, or cracked casting/threads can cause the hitch to not lift, not hold position, pour oil out, or act erratically. Symptoms include: hitch won’t hold under load, slow or no lift, spongy/ intermittent response, visible external oil leaks at the valve body, or internal bypass that prevents pressure build-up.
- How it works (basic theory): a gear pump creates flow/pressure. Flow enters the valve body. A sliding spool (or several spools and poppets) routes flow to the rockshaft/lift cylinder ports or to tank. Draft/position linkages mechanically move the spool or actuate pressure valves to alter how much flow reaches the lift. Springs and balls act as check/relief poppets. If the valve spool leaks into the return ports internally, flow bypasses the lift and you lose lifting ability or holding power.

Safety and preparatory checklist (do these before touching anything)
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock wheels, lower hitch to the ground.
- Remove ignition key and disconnect battery negative if you’ll be working near starter/electricals.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Have rags and an oil catch container ready.
- Keep a clean bench area and a parts tray or magnetic dish for small parts.
- Have the TE‑20 workshop/service manual on hand for model-specific torque and oil-grade specs.

Tools and parts you’ll need (specifics)
- Tools: sockets and wrenches (metric & imperial as needed), screwdrivers, punch/soft hammer, pliers, snap‑ring pliers (if applicable), torque wrench, pick set, small bench vise or soft-jaw vice, compressed air (blow gun), cleaning solvent (degreaser), lint-free cloths, gasket scraper, seal drivers.
- Parts/consumables: replacement valve body assembly or repair kit (spools, O‑rings/seals, poppet balls & springs, gaskets), new copper washers for pipe fittings, fresh hydraulic oil (spec per manual), thread locker for certain studs, replacement bolts if damaged, rags, oil drain pan.
- If you do not have a complete valve assembly, buy a full rebuild kit that matches your serial/model.

High-level removal & replacement sequence (then detailed steps)
1) Drain/relieve hydraulic pressure
2) Label and disconnect linkages & pipes
3) Remove valve body cover and extract valve spool(s)/components
4) Inspect and clean or replace parts
5) Rebuild/replace valve body assembly
6) Reinstall, adjust linkages and controls
7) Refill hydraulic oil, bleed, test, and troubleshoot

Detailed step-by-step procedure (for a beginner)
Note: exact bolt locations and small details vary by TE‑20 serial/model. Follow the manual images when available.

1 — Prepare and drain
- Lower the hitch to the ground. Put wood blocks under lift arms to support them.
- Place oil drain pan under the lift housing. Remove the hydraulic reservoir fill/drain plug and drain oil from the housing and valve area so when you open the housing there’s minimal spillage.
- Remove any dirt and debris from around the access cover area so you don’t introduce contaminants.

2 — Document and mark
- Before removal, take clear photos of the valve body, pipe routing and linkage positions. Label each hydraulic pipe with tape and a number to ensure correct reassembly.
- Mark the position of linkage rods, studs and nuts so adjustments can be returned to the same approximate place.

3 — Disconnect linkages and pipes
- Remove the lift control lever linkage from the control arm and the draft sensing link(s). You will usually unbolt or remove clevis pins that connect the draft rod and position rod to the valve assembly or cover.
- Unscrew and remove hydraulic pipes/pipes fittings that run to/from the valve body. Plug the lines quickly to keep contamination out, and place copper washers aside for replacement.
- Keep small parts together in a labeled tray.

4 — Remove valve body or cover
- Remove bolts that secure the valve cover or valve body to the rear housing. Keep bolts in order and note any thick or thin gaskets or special shims.
- Gently tap and lift off the valve cover. Expect some oil to leak — have rags ready.
- The valve body assembly (spool plates, springs, balls, retainers) should now be exposed.

5 — Extract spools, springs and poppets
- Carefully remove the spools/sliders and associated spring/ball/poppet components one at a time, noting orientation and order. Lay them out in the same order you remove them.
- Watch for small parts (balls, springs) that can fly out. Use a shallow tray to catch them.
- Don’t force stuck spools; note corrosion or scoring.

6 — Clean and inspect every component (this is critical)
- Clean the valve body bore and spool parts with solvent. Blow out all passages with low-pressure compressed air to remove grit and deposits.
- Inspect each spool: look for scoring, wear lines, galling or pitting on the lands (the raised rings that seal). If you see deep grooves or scoring, the spool or bore must be repaired or the whole valve body replaced—repairing machining is not a typical home repair.
- Inspect bore/housing: polish/ hone? — small scratches can sometimes be smoothed by careful fine honing or lapping (specialist). Deep wear requires replacement.
- Inspect poppet balls: pitting or flat spots means replacement.
- Springs: check for broken coils and measure free length against new spring spec; if spring has taken a set (shortened), replace.
- Seals/O‑rings/gaskets: if brittle, cracked, or flattened replace them. O‑rings often harden in place—replace them all.
- Check for metal debris in the oil and magnet in housing — heavy metal indicates pump or internal wear; address pump.

7 — Decide repair vs replace
- If all bores and spools are in good shape and only seals/balls/springs are bad, rebuild with a kit.
- If spools or bores are scored or the casting cracked, replace the entire valve body assembly or send it to a specialist for sleeving/regrind.

8 — Reassembly (clean bench, reverse order)
- Put new gaskets, O‑rings and seals in place. Lightly coat spools and seals with clean hydraulic oil or assembly lube before installing.
- Reinstall spools in the exact order and orientation. Springs and balls must sit correctly in their seats.
- Install any pressure relief or cut-out valves correctly (these are small springs & plungers — orientation matters).
- Install the valve cover using a new gasket. Tighten bolts in a criss‑cross fashion to compress the gasket evenly. Use the torque specs from the manual. If manual is not available, tighten evenly and do not over-torque — you are compressing a gasket into castings.

9 — Reconnect pipes and linkages
- Replace copper crush washers on hydraulic fittings. Torque pipe fittings to a good snug setting — do not overtighten and risk stripping cast threads.
- Reattach linkages in the marked positions. Make sure draft/position rods move freely and the control lever hits detents appropriately.

10 — Refill, prime and bleed
- Refill reservoir with the correct hydraulic/gear oil specified by the TE‑20 manual.
- Start the engine at low speed. Cycle the lift control up and down several times to purge air. Operate slowly and watch for leaks.
- Check oil level and top up to correct mark after air is purged.
- Re-check all fasteners and fittings for leaks after a short test run.

Adjustment and calibration (basic)
- Check and set the neutral/center of the valve spool if adjustable. Often you set the control lever so that the lift holds the implement in neutral; adjust the position/draft links so that the draft control reacts to load in a predictable way.
- The rockshaft drop-limit screw (if fitted) sets how far the arms lower. The draft control linkage is adjusted so the top link position influences the valve spool correctly. Use the manual adjustment procedures; small changes make noticeable differences.
- Test holding under load: with a known weight or implement, check whether the lift holds position or slowly drifts. If it drifts, you likely have internal leakage (worn spool bore) — rebuild/replace valve body.

Common failure modes and what can go wrong (how to diagnose)
- Symptom: hitch won’t hold and slowly lowers with load.
Cause: internal leakage (worn spool or bore) or bad poppet-seat; solution: rebuild with new spools or replace valve body.
- Symptom: intermittent lift, sticky operation.
Cause: contaminated oil or a stuck spool from varnish/rust; solution: clean or replace spool and clean all passages.
- Symptom: external oil leak at fitting or cover.
Cause: failed gasket or copper washers or loose bolts; solution: replace gasket/washers and torque properly.
- Symptom: pump noise, low lift speed or no pressure.
Cause: worn pump, air in intake, clogged strainer; solution: check pump, screen, suction pipe, and oil level.
- Symptom: valve leaked out of return holes when disassembled.
Cause: worn or cracked valve block body or incorrect reassembly; solution: replace valve body or reseat components.
- Mistakes to avoid:
- Reusing old O‑rings and gaskets.
- Allowing grit into the valve bores — contamination will ruin spools quickly.
- Using improper sealant/thread seal on internal fittings.
- Overtightening small cast bolts — it strips or cracks the casting.

Testing checklist after installation
- No visible external leaks at fittings or cover.
- Smooth up/down lift operation with no stalling or jerking.
- Hitch holds position under moderate load.
- No unusual knocking or whining from pump (if present).
- Oil level is stable and not dropping.

Last tips for a beginner
- If you are unsure of the bore or spool condition, it’s safer to replace the whole valve body assembly or get it professionally re-machined. Spool-to-bore clearance must be small for the system to hold pressure — machining is precision work.
- Buy a rebuild kit for your serial number if possible — parts vary by year.
- Keep everything clean — hydraulic systems are unforgiving of dirt.
- Keep a notebook or photos of the repair so you (or the next person) know what was done.

If you want, treat the valve body like a “precision syringe” — the spools are pistons whose fit to the bore controls whether flow goes to the lift or leaks away. If that fit is worn, the syringe won’t hold pressure.

This covers the practical replacement steps, inspection points, how the system works, what parts do, and what can go wrong. Follow the TE‑20 service manual for the precise bolt torques and oil grade for your serial/model.
rteeqp73

1949 Ferguson TE20 Doesn't want to run One of my neighbours has an old Ferguson that's giving him fits. Lets help him out and see what's going on with it.

How to Adjust the Hydraulics on a Ferguson TE20 Tractor Hello Im Lance (aka Bundy Bear) and doing these videos is my hobby. I do own Queensland Tractor Spares in Australia where I ...

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