Tools & consumables needed
- Basic hand tools: 1/2" & 3/8" drive ratchets, metric and imperial socket set, combination wrenches (6–24 mm and 1/4–1"), breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (range to at least 150 ft·lb / 200 Nm).
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster / CRC).
- Hammer, soft-faced mallet, cold chisel.
- Pry bar.
- Jack (floor jack or farm jack appropriate for tractor weight) and heavy-duty jack stands or axle stands rated for the load.
- Wheel chocks.
- Spring compressor (if the strut assembly uses a coil spring, rarely original on TE-20 but possible on retrofits). Make sure compressor is rated for the spring size.
- Strut spring compressor adapters or strut nut socket if required.
- Ball joint/press or puller (if the lower mount uses pressed-in pins).
- Wire brush, gasket scraper, rags, degreaser.
- New replacement parts: strut mount (top mount bearing/isolator), new upper nut(s), new mounting bolts & nuts (grade 8 or equivalent), any rubber isolators/bushings, new lock washers/locknuts or Loctite. If the strut has a bearing in the mount, replace the bearing as well.
- Anti-seize or thread locker (Loctite medium strength).
- Grease (if specified).
- Service manual or TE-20 workshop manual for diagrams and torque specs.

Safety precautions (don’t skip)
- Work on a level surface; block rear wheels with chocks.
- Use jack stands under the chassis or axle — never rely on the jack alone. TE-20s are heavy; support at proper lift points.
- If a coil spring is present, treat it as an energy device. Use a rated spring compressor and stand clear while compressing/decompressing. Springs can kill.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and steel-toe boots.
- Apply penetrating oil and allow it time to soak on seized bolts before attempting to break them loose.
- Keep bystanders away while using impact tools or compressing springs.
- If using a torch or welding, remove flammable materials and ventilate; better to replace fasteners rather than heat if possible — but heat can be used carefully to free studs.

Notes about TE-20 specifics
- The TE-20 original front end is very simple (kingpin/rigid beam) and most original tractors don’t have MacPherson-style struts. Many TE-20s have been retrofitted with aftermarket dampers/struts or shock absorber mounts. The procedure below covers a generic strut/top-mount replacement that applies to common retrofit installations and to telescopic shock absorbers mounted to the frame. If your setup differs (kingpin overhaul, leaf spring mounts) follow the appropriate manual section.

Step-by-step procedure

1) Prepare and identify
- Park tractor on level ground, engine off, keys removed. Chock the rear wheels.
- Identify the strut/upper mount to be replaced and inspect how it attaches at the top (frame bracket, tower with nut on a strut rod, or bolted plate). Note orientation of mount, spacer washers, grease fittings and any shims. Photograph assembly for reassembly reference. Order the correct replacement mount/bearing for your strut model.

2) Lift and support
- Loosen wheel nuts (if wheel removal required) while tractor is on ground.
- Raise the tractor using an appropriate jack at the recommended lift point near the wheel/strut. Place heavy-duty jack stands under secure frame points or the axle and lower the tractor onto stands. Ensure the wheel/wheels are suspended and stable before removing wheels.

3) Remove wheel (if necessary)
- Remove wheel to give working room. Keep lug nuts in order.

4) Detach lower strut attachment
- Support the lower strut with a jack or block to take weight when you remove fasteners.
- Remove the lower mounting bolt(s) or nut(s) holding the strut to the axle/knuckle. Use penetrating oil first if seized. Use a puller to separate if ball joint or tapered pin used. Keep track of washers/spacers and note alignment marks.

5) Detach any ancillary lines or links
- Disconnect sway links, brake line brackets or any bracket bolted to the strut so the strut assembly is free. Cap brake lines if opened (bleeding required later).

6) Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle
- With the lower secured, remove the upper mounting nut(s) or bolts and lift the whole strut out of the strut tower. If the top is a nut on a strut piston rod, hold the strut shaft with a 2–jaw or strap wrench to prevent spinning while breaking the nut loose.

7A) If strut assembly is a simple telescopic damper with rubber mount (no coil spring)
- Put the strut on a bench. Spread penetrating oil around the top nut and let soak.
- Use the correct socket to remove the top nut and remove the old mount. Replace with new mount or bearing, placing any bearings/isolators and dust caps in correct order. Grease bearing per instructions if required. Reassemble with new top nut and tighten to manufacturer spec or snug and secure with new locknut/washer/Loctite.

7B) If strut assembly is a coilover (coil spring around the strut)
- Place the assembled strut in a secure vice or on bench. Fit the spring compressor to the coil and compress until spring tension is off the top mount. Follow the compressor tool instructions exactly and compress evenly.
- Remove the top nut while holding the strut shaft stationary. Remove the top mount, rubber isolator and bearing. Inspect the spring for cracks and the strut for oil leakage. Replace mount/bearing and any damaged components. Reassemble in reverse order, decompress slowly and evenly until spring seats. Verify orientation of mount and bearing.

8) Clean and prep mounting points
- Clean the frame/strut tower seating surfaces with a wire brush and degreaser. Remove rust, paint flakes or burrs.
- Replace mounting bolts and nuts if corroded. Apply anti-seize on threads or a small amount of Loctite where appropriate.

9) Reinstall strut assembly
- Position the strut up into the tower, align holes, and hand-thread the upper nut(s) or bolts. Reattach lower mount and torque fasteners finger-tight to start. Make sure any alignment marks or camber/shim washers are returned to their original positions. If brake lines were disconnected, ensure they are reattached and not kinked.

10) Torque fasteners to spec
- Tighten upper nut(s) to the manufacturer torque spec from the TE-20 manual or the strut manufacturer. If no spec is available: tighten to a sensible range for the fastener size and grade then secure with a new locknut or Loctite — but do not rely on this; consult the manual. Torque lower mounting bolts to spec as well.

11) Reassemble ancillary parts
- Reattach any sway bar links, brake brackets, hoses, and wheel. Bleed brakes if any lines were opened. Reinstall wheel and torque wheel nuts to spec.

12) Lower tractor and final checks
- Remove jack stands and lower tractor to the ground. Torque wheel nuts again if required.
- Check strut top area for correct seating and no interference with body/frame. Check for fluid leaks from the strut.
- Road/field test at low speed to verify behavior. Re-torque fasteners after a short test period (first few hours of operation).

How each special tool is used
- Spring compressor: clamps onto coil windings above and below center; compress evenly and slowly until the top mount is free of spring pressure. Never use improvised tools.
- Torque wrench: used to tighten critical fasteners to specified torque. Set to value, tighten smoothly until wrench clicks.
- Puller/Ball joint press: used to separate tapered connections (lower strut pin to knuckle) without damaging parts. Center the puller, tighten to separate.
- Penetrating oil: spray on corroded fasteners, let soak 10–20 min, reapply as needed. Heat with an oxy/acetylene or propane torch only if necessary and safe; heat can damage rubber parts and paint.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Underestimating spring energy: compressor failure can be catastrophic. Use rated compressor, check condition, compress symmetrically.
- Rounding off nuts: use the correct-size deep socket and hold the shaft to prevent spinning; use impact wrench only when safe.
- Reusing old rubber mount or bearings: rubber degrades — replace with new mount and bearings whenever removing assembly.
- Seized fasteners: penetrating oil and proper breaker bars reduce damage. If bolt head rounds, use extractor or cut bolt and replace with new hardware.
- Incorrect reassembly orientation: photograph original orientation and shims; replace exactly as removed.
- Not replacing fasteners: corroded bolts should be replaced with equivalent grade hardware; using undersized or lower-grade bolts can fail under load.
- Improper torque: under-tightening causes movement; over-tightening can crush rubber bearings or strip threads. Use torque wrench and factory specs.
- Not checking clearance: ensure brake lines, hoses and wiring have slack and are not routed where they will rub.

Replacement parts summary
- Strut top mount assembly (bearing/isolator).
- Any worn rubber cushions or dust covers.
- New upper nut(s) and lower mounting bolt(s) if corroded — use grade 8 (or equivalent metric class 10.9) where original required.
- Seals or the strut itself if leaking.
- New lockwashers, nyloc nuts or use medium-strength Loctite on bolts where specified.

Final verification
- After reassembly and a short test, recheck torque on upper and lower mounting fasteners and wheel nuts. Inspect for leaks, abnormal noises, or play. Recheck after 10 hours of use.

Follow the TE-20 workshop manual for drawings and torque numbers where available.
rteeqp73

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