Tools & supplies
- Throttle-body cleaner (spray can formulated for electronic throttle bodies; e.g., CRC Throttle Body & Parts Cleaner)
- Clean, lint-free rags or microfiber towels
- Soft-bristle brush (toothbrush or dedicated nylon brush)
- Socket set (8mm & 10mm sockets commonly used), ratchet, extension
- Flathead screwdriver and Philips screwdriver
- Pliers (for hose clamps)
- Safety glasses and nitrile gloves
- Replacement throttle body gasket / O‑ring (if the OEM has a gasket or the seal is damaged)
- New intake boots or clamps if cracked/rotten
- Torque wrench (optional but recommended)
- Small flashlight
- OBD-II scanner (optional — to clear codes / verify no faults and monitor idle relearn)

Safety precautions (read first)
- Work on a cool engine. Hot parts and cleaner vapors are dangerous.
- Work in a well‑ventilated area; avoid sparks/ignition sources; no smoking.
- Wear eye protection and gloves; chemical spray is harmful to skin/eyes.
- Avoid spraying electrical connectors, mass airflow sensor (MAF), and painted surfaces.
- If you disconnect the battery, expect the ECU to lose learned idle values and perform an idle relearn (procedure given below). Disconnecting the battery is optional but reduces the chance of shorting ETC electronics when working near the connector.
- Don’t force or pry the throttle motor or sensor — the Mazda3 uses an electronic throttle; the throttle plate is delicate.

Overview (what you’ll do)
1) Remove intake duct to expose throttle body. 2) Inspect for intake boot leaks and gasket condition. 3) Clean carbon from throttle plate and bore with throttle-body cleaner, rag and brush. 4) Reassemble and perform idle relearn/check for codes.

Step-by-step procedure (typical Mazda3; exact layout may vary by year/engine)
1. Prepare
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, engine off and cool.
- Gather tools and safety gear.

2. (Optional) Clear codes / note ECU condition
- If you have an OBD-II scanner, read and note active codes. You can clear codes after cleaning if desired.

3. Access the throttle body
- Remove the engine cover if present (pop clips or remove bolts).
- Loosen clamps on the air intake hose between the airbox/MAF and throttle body (usually 8–10 mm). Slide hose off the throttle body.
- Move aside the intake duct/airbox to get a clear view of the throttle body and wiring.
- Disconnect any breather hose(s) that attach to the intake duct (label or note positions).

4. Inspect
- Visually inspect the intake boot and throttle body gasket/seal for cracks, tears, hardening or leaks. Replace if damaged.
- Check the MAF sensor in the intake duct for oil/soot — do not use throttle-body cleaner on the MAF; use MAF cleaner if needed.

5. Protect electrical components
- With engine off, disconnect the electrical connector to the throttle body if you prefer (do not spray into connector). If you don’t disconnect it, be extra careful not to spray the harness.

6. Open the throttle plate carefully
- With the ignition OFF, gently press the throttle plate open from the intake side with a gloved finger or a small flat screwdriver (light pressure). Do not force hard — you only need a few millimeters to access the edge.
- Note: If the throttle motor resists or you can’t open it, do not force; clean as much as you can without damaging the motor. Some techs leave the connector attached and have an assistant turn ignition ON (engine OFF) and tap the gas to open the plate electronically — only if you know the vehicle’s procedure.

7. Apply cleaner & remove carbon
- Spray throttle-body cleaner onto a rag first and wipe the visible carbon from the throttle plate edges and bore. Use the brush with cleaner to loosen stubborn deposits.
- Work carefully around the plate edges, cleaning both intake side and bore. Avoid soaking the electronic components.
- Use short bursts of spray; do not flood the intake.
- Repeat until surfaces are visibly clean. Wipe dry with clean rag.

8. Inspect & replace hardware if needed
- If the throttle plate won’t move freely after cleaning, or if the bore is heavily pitted/eroded, or wiring/connector is corroded, consider replacing the throttle body assembly.
- Replace the throttle body mounting O‑ring/gasket if damaged. Replace cracked intake boots or broken clamps.

9. Reassemble
- Reinstall any breather hoses and the intake duct. Ensure the intake hose seats fully on the throttle body and MAF housing.
- Tighten hose clamps snugly — do not overtighten plastic.
- Reconnect the throttle body electrical connector if removed.
- Reinstall engine cover.

Tightening guidance: throttle body bolts are plastic/soft on many models — if you have a torque wrench, tighten to manufacturer spec. Typical small bolts are around 7–10 Nm (65–88 in-lb). If you don’t have the spec, snug and stop; don’t strip threads.

10. Battery / ECU / idle relearn
- If you disconnected the battery: reconnect it.
- Idle relearn (basic procedure that works for most Mazda3 models):
a) With all accessories OFF, key to ON (engine OFF) for 3 seconds, then OFF for 3 seconds. Repeat 3 times.
b) Start engine and let idle for 5–10 minutes with no load (no A/C). Allow the cooling fan(s) to cycle if they come on. Do not rev the engine intentionally while it’s relearning.
c) Turn A/C on and ensure idle is stable. Some recommend a short drive with varied throttle to settle the ECU.
- If you have an advanced OBD-II or dealer scan tool, perform the throttle body relearn/adaptation procedure per tool instructions.

11. Verify operation
- Start engine, listen for rough idle or stalling. If it idles smoothly, take the car for a short drive, vary RPMs, and verify throttle response.
- Re-scan for trouble codes. If codes (P0121, P0122, P2119, P2100, etc.) appear, further diagnostics may be required — possibly replacement of throttle body or wiring repairs.

How the tools are used (practical notes)
- Throttle-body cleaner: spray on rag or directly in short bursts onto carbon deposits. Clean outward from plate edges; do not overspray electronics.
- Brush & rag: brush to loosen carbon, rag to wipe. Use multiple rags to avoid re-depositing carbon.
- Sockets/screwdrivers: remove clamps/fasteners carefully. Use the correct size to avoid rounding bolts.
- Pliers: pop off old hose clamps, install new clamps or reuse if in good condition.
- Torque wrench: final-tighten bolts to avoid strip/overstress.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Flooding the intake with cleaner — causes contamination, stalling, or check-engine lights.
- Spraying MAF or electrical connectors — causes sensor damage.
- Forcing the throttle plate or motor — can strip gears/motors.
- Not replacing damaged intake boots or gaskets — leads to vacuum leaks and rough idle.
- Over‑tightening plastic bolts or clamps — strip threads or crack parts.
- Disconnecting the battery and not performing an idle relearn — causes unstable idle or limp mode.
- Using harsh carburetor cleaners not recommended for electronic components; use product labeled safe for electronic throttle bodies.
- Ignoring underlying causes — heavy carbon often indicates PCV or incomplete combustion issues; check PCV valve and air filter.

When to replace the throttle body or parts
- Replace throttle body if plate is stuck, plate return is sluggish after cleaning, motor clicks/fails, or internal electronics fail (diagnostic trouble codes).
- Replace intake boot / clamps if cracked, hardened, or leaking.
- Replace throttle body gasket/O‑ring if damaged or leaking.
- Replace MAF if contaminated and cleaning didn’t restore correct readings (use MAF cleaner).

Final checks
- After cleaning and relearn, verify there are no CELs and the car drives normally.
- If idle is still rough or codes return, perform further diagnostics or replace the throttle body assembly.

Done.
rteeqp73

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