Tools & consumables
- Floor jack + 2 quality jack stands (or ramps) — support the car, not just the jack.
- Wheel chocks.
- Large drain pan (6–10 L).
- Ratchet + extensions, 6–point sockets and spanners (8–19mm common sizes).
- Hex/Allen/torx set (some fill/drain plugs use hex).
- Breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (essential for reinstall).
- Fluid pump (hand or electric) with long hose for filling through fill hole or dipstick tube.
- Funnel and long flexible spout.
- Disposable gloves, safety glasses, shop rags.
- Scraper for pan gasket (automatic).
- New crush/sealing washer(s) for drain plug(s).
- For automatic: new pan gasket and transmission filter (paper/screen), and new pan bolts if specified.
- Clean brake cleaner or degreaser.
- Correct replacement fluid (see notes below).
- Waste fluid container/absorbent and place to dispose of old ATF legally.

Safety precautions (non-negotiable)
- Work on a flat, level surface. Chock wheels.
- Use jack stands rated for the car’s weight — do not rely on the jack.
- Transmission fluid is hot after driving. Let drivetrain cool or warm (see step) and wear gloves.
- Protect skin/eyes from fluid. Clean spills immediately (slippery hazard).
- Dispose of used fluid per local regulations.
- If lifting the car on ramps or stands, ensure stable placement before crawling under.

Which procedure to use?
- R32 Skylines came with both manual and automatic transmissions. Pick the correct section below (manual or automatic). If unsure, check for a manual shifter or automatic gear selector first.

General notes about fluids & parts
- Manual transmissions: commonly use GL‑4 gear oil (75W‑90) in Nissan manuals. Use OEM spec from the factory manual or equivalent high-quality GL‑4 gear oil. Qty ≈ 2.5–3.5 L depending on gearbox — check factory capacity.
- Automatic transmissions: use the OEM ATF specified for your model/year (Nissan Matic type used on many older Skylines). Quantity is much larger for a full fluid + torque converter change — for a pan drain/refill you’ll replace ~3–5 L; full flush is 8–10 L. Consult factory spec.
- Always replace drain plug crush washer(s). For auto pan service replace pan gasket and filter.

A. Manual transmission — drain & refill (step-by-step)
1) Prep
- Warm the car by driving briefly (5–10 min) to bring fluid to operating temp; warm fluid drains better. Park on level surface, chock front wheels if doing rear drain or vice versa.
- Securely jack the car and set on stands so the car is level.

2) Identify drain & fill plugs
- Locate the transmission drain plug on the underside (bottom of case) and the fill plug on the side (higher up). The fill plug is used to set level — fill until fluid reaches bottom of fill hole. Clean area.

3) Drain
- Position drain pan under drain plug.
- Loosen and remove drain plug with appropriate socket/hex. Let fluid drain completely. Tip: if plug is stubborn, break it loose with a breaker bar. Watch for hot fluid.
- Inspect the old fluid color and metal particles. Small fine particles are normal; large chunks mean gearbox wear — stop and inspect.

4) Replace crush washer & reinstall drain plug
- Clean drain plug and mating surface. Install new crush/sealing washer.
- Reinstall and hand‑thread to avoid cross-threading, then tighten to factory spec. If you don’t have the spec, snug securely — don’t over-torque.

5) Refill through the fill hole
- Remove fill plug. Using a fluid pump, pump the correct amount of gear oil into the fill hole until oil begins to just show at the bottom of the fill hole. For most manuals fill until oil barely drips out of the fill hole — that is the correct level.
- Reinstall fill plug with new crush washer if applicable. Torque to spec.

6) Final checks
- Clean area, lower vehicle, test drive for a short distance, re-check for leaks and re-torque plugs if required.
- Dispose of fluid properly.

Tool usage notes
- Fluid pump: Insert hose to the fill hole; pump until fluid is seen at fill hole. This avoids spilling and is much easier than trying to pour.
- Torque wrench: use to tighten fill/drain plugs to specified torque; prevents snapping bolts or leaks.
- Breaker bar: use for initial loosening of stubborn plugs, then switch to ratchet.

Common manual pitfalls
- Overfilling/underfilling (level must be at bottom of fill hole).
- Forgetting to replace crush washer — leaks follow.
- Cross-threading fill plug — always hand-thread first.
- Not supporting car safely.

B. Automatic transmission — pan drain, filter & refill (step-by-step)
1) Prep & warm-up
- Warm engine/transmission to normal operating temperature (drive 10–15 minutes). Warm fluid improves drain of torque converter/pan.
- Park on level surface, set park, chock wheels, jack and support on stands.

2) Locate pan & drain
- Some R32 automatics have a small drain plug in the pan; if present use that. If not, you must loosen pan bolts to drop the pan and allow fluid to drain (have pan catch ready).
- Place drain pan under transmission pan.

3) Remove valve body/low bolts properly
- If pan has a drain plug, remove and drain. If not, loosen bolts across one side and let pan tilt to allow fluid to drain slowly while holding remaining bolts until filter is accessible. Remove pan carefully (fluid will flow out).
- Drop pan and set aside.

4) Replace filter and clean pan
- Remove old filter (it will pull off). Some filters have O-rings — replace them accordingly.
- Clean magnet(s) and inside of pan thoroughly; inspect for metal flakes. Small fine shavings okay; sizable chunks are bad sign.
- Replace pan gasket with new one. If pan fasteners have torque-to-yield or specified replacement bolts, replace as required.

5) Reinstall pan & torque
- Install new gasket, position pan, hand-thread bolts. Tighten in a criss-cross pattern to specified torque gradually.
- If pan has a drain plug or a transmission case fill plug, ensure crush washer replaced.

6) Refill
- Start by filling the transmission with the correct ATF using a fluid pump through the dipstick tube or designated fill port. For a pan service you typically add about the amount you drained (usually 3–5 L) but top up per dipstick level.
- Start engine and cycle through gears (P–D–N–R as appropriate) to circulate fluid; with engine idling and transmission at operating temp check fluid level on dipstick per factory procedure (hot vs cold measurement). Add fluid slowly to reach proper level.

7) Final checks
- Check for leaks under the pan and at pan bolts, recheck level after a short drive and adjust as needed.
- Dispose of old fluid properly.

Tool usage notes (automatic)
- Pan removal: use appropriate socket; loosen bolts gradually and uniformly — do not pry pan off by force (may bend).
- Filter: usually just pulls off or is held by 2 bolts. Clean mating surfaces, install new filter firmly and ensure any O‑rings/seals are positioned.
- Dipstick fill with pump: pump slowly and check level per dipstick procedure to avoid overfill.

Common automatic pitfalls
- Not warming transmission — cold level reading is misleading.
- Overfilling — causes foaming, poor shifting, overheating.
- Not replacing pan gasket or filter — leads to leaks or contamination.
- Cross-threading pan bolts or overtightening — can distort pan or strip threads.
- Not torquing pan bolts in sequence — uneven gasket crush and leaks.

Inspection & follow-up
- Inspect drained fluid: dark burnt smell or heavy metal particles = internal problems; consult specialist.
- Re-check bolts and fluid level after 50–100 km.
- Keep records of fluid type and date/mileage for future maintenance.

Replacement parts to have on hand
- Drain plug crush washer(s).
- For automatic: new transmission pan gasket, transmission filter, pan bolts if OEM recommends replacement.
- Optional: new fill plug crush washer, new pan magnets if corroded.

Final note
Follow the factory service manual for exact fluid specification, fill volumes, plug sizes, and torque specs. If you need those exact numbers, consult the R32 Skyline service manual for your specific model/transmission.

Done.
rteeqp73

R32 Nissan Skyline - How to Read ECU Error Codes Hey guys, I was having an issue with my car so I decided to make a video on how to check the ECU for error codes. Check it out.

Analyzing engines in 3D: The Skyline GTR RB26 🤯 In this video we analyze the powerful engine of the nissan skyline GTR RB26DETT #turbo #skyline #gtr #engine #3D ...

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Summary: This guide covers how a turbocharger on an R32 Skyline (most commonly the RB26DETT twin‑turbo; notes apply to RB20DET single‑turbo too) works, why it fails, how to inspect/remove/repair or rebuild it, and how to reinstall, prime and test it. I’ll name every major component, explain its function with analogies, list tools/parts, show step‑by‑step procedures, and give key safety and quality notes. For engine‑specific torque specs and clearances use the factory service manual — balancing and precise clearances usually require specialist equipment.

Safety first
- Work on a cool engine. Hot turbos/exhaust will burn you.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Wear eye protection, gloves, and hearing protection as needed.
- Support the car safely on jack stands if you need to go under it.
- Drain coolant and engine oil where required; dispose of fluids responsibly.
- If you are unsure about any step, stop and consult a pro. Turbo rebuilds involve tight tolerances and high speeds; improper work can cause failure or engine damage.

What a turbocharger is and how it works (simple analogy)
- Analogy: turbo = exhaust‑driven air pump. Imagine a windmill (turbine wheel) spun by hot exhaust gas; that spins a fan (compressor wheel) that forces more air into the engine. More air + fuel = more power.
- The turbo sits between the exhaust manifold and the intake piping via the intercooler. It needs a constant clean oil supply for lubrication/cooling and often coolant on water‑cooled units.

Major components (and what each does)
- Turbine housing (hot side)
- Receives exhaust from exhaust manifold; directs it across the turbine wheel.
- Analogy: funnel for exhaust wind that spins the windmill.
- Turbine wheel
- Spins from exhaust flow; bolted to the shaft.
- Can be damaged by foreign objects or heat fatigue.
- Compressor housing (cold side)
- Sucks ambient air and compresses it; directs compressed air to intercooler/intake.
- Compressor wheel
- Air “fan” on the other end of the shaft.
- Blade damage or rubbing reduces efficiency and causes vibration.
- Center housing rotating assembly (CHRA)
- The central block that contains shaft, bearings (journal or ball), seals, oil passages; connects turbine and compressor.
- The heart of the turbo.
- Bearings / thrust mechanism
- Support the shaft; allow it to spin at 60k–150k+ RPM.
- Wear or damage causes axial (in/out) or radial (side‑to‑side) play.
- Oil feed line
- Supplies pressurized oil from engine to CHRA for lubrication/cooling.
- Oil return line (drain)
- Gravity drains oil back to the sump; must be unobstructed.
- Coolant lines (if water‑cooled turbo)
- Circulate engine coolant through CHRA to control temps and prevent oil coking.
- Wastegate actuator (and wastegate)
- Bypasses exhaust around turbine to limit boost. On RB26DETT internal wastegates exist in housings or the manifold; actuator controls opening.
- Blow‑off valve (BOV) or diverter valve (DV)
- Releases pressure when throttle closes to protect compressor and reduce surge.
- Intercooler/piping
- Cools compressed air; leaks here reduce boost and performance.
- Exhaust manifold / downpipe
- Mounting points for turbine; cracked manifold or leaks affect turbo performance.
- Gaskets, studs, and heat shields
- Ensure seals and protect surrounding components.

Why turbos fail (common causes)
- Oil degradation/clogging: dirty oil, debris, sludge, or restricted feed/return causes oil starvation and bearing failure.
- Oil coking: oil heated in stagnant passages (worn or blocked drains) turns to varnish and blocks flow.
- Foreign object damage: small bits of metal or carbon enter turbine/compressor wheels and bend/dent blades.
- Overboost / mechanical stress: wastegate failure or boost control problems cause overspeed and breakage.
- Heat cycling and fatigue: repeated thermal stress can crack housings or melt components.
- Improper lubrication on startup/shutdown: no warmup or shutting off immediately after hard use causes oil coking and bearing wear.
- Water or coolant leaks into turbo (failed cooler) causing corrosion.
- Excessive shaft play from worn bearings -> oil leaks into intake/exhaust and smoke.

Symptoms telling you the turbo needs attention
- Blue or gray smoke from exhaust (oil burning from turbo seals).
- Excess oil in intake/compressor housing, or oil dripping from turbo.
- Whining, grinding, or high pitched siren noise from turbo (bearing wear).
- Loss of boost/power, slow spool, or boost spikes.
- Excessive blowby in intake piping, compressor surge (fluttering sound).
- Check engine light/overboost or boost control codes.
- Visible shaft play when you move compressor wheel by hand (more than ~0.5–1 mm radial or 1 mm axial is suspect — check manual).

Tools and consumables you’ll need
- Basic hand tools: sockets, wrenches, ratchets (metric), extensions.
- Torque wrench.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster), heat source for stubborn bolts.
- Screwdrivers, pliers.
- Gasket scraper and cleaning brushes.
- Small puller or compressor wheel puller (for compressor wheel).
- Soft mallet, bench vise (with care), snap ring pliers.
- Dial indicator and micrometer (for measurement).
- New gaskets, copper crush washers, new oil feed/return lines if required.
- Turbo rebuild kit (bearings, seals, thrust, snap rings) or a replacement CHRA or reman turbo.
- New engine oil and oil filter.
- Clean rags, solvent for cleaning parts.
- Safety gear and shop manual.

Inspection (before removal)
1. Visual check:
- Look for oil leaks at compressor inlet, turbine outlet, oil feed/return.
- Look for cracked housings, loose clamps, blowby in piping.
2. Play check:
- Remove intake pipe and wiggle compressor wheel: check radial (side-to-side) and axial (in-out) play. Small radial play is normal but excessive indicates bearing wear. Axial play should be minimal.
3. Blade inspection:
- Look for nicks, chips on compressor/turbine blades and rub marks.
4. Oil lines:
- Check feed for metal shavings; check return for sludged restrictions.
5. Wastegate actuator:
- Ensure it moves and holds vacuum/pressure.

Removal (general sequence)
Note: follow this sequence for each turbo on twin setups; label hoses and bolts.
1. Let engine cool completely.
2. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
3. Remove intake and intercooler piping leading to compressor housings; remove BOVs or DVs if necessary.
4. Remove heat shields covering turbos and downpipe.
5. Drain engine oil and coolant if turbo coolant lines need removal.
6. Remove downpipes/downpipe bolts connecting turbine outlet to rest of exhaust.
7. Remove exhaust manifold studs/bolts securing turbine housing (exhaust side). Penetrating oil and patience needed.
8. Disconnect oil feed line (from head) and oil return line (from bottom). Prepare to catch oil.
9. Disconnect coolant lines on water‑cooled turbo.
10. Disconnect vacuum/boost hoses to wastegate actuator and any electrical connectors.
11. Unbolt turbo from manifold/downpipe and lift turbo out. Keep track of studs, nuts, and gaskets.

Disassembly (CHRA evaluation and rebuild options)
Important: many turbo shafts must be balanced after reassembly. If you can’t access a turbo balancing machine, replacement CHRA or a reman turbo is recommended.

1. Clean exterior to keep dirt out. Work on a clean bench.
2. Remove compressor housing bolts / V‑band clamp. Remove compressor housing and wheel; often wheel is pressed on—use proper puller or soft jaws in a vise. Don’t hammer the wheel.
3. Remove turbine housing (nuts/bolts) and remove turbine wheel. Be careful: bolts may be peened; apply penetrating oil and heat if needed.
4. Remove retaining nut or snap ring holding the shaft to the bearing housing.
5. Pull shaft + wheels out of center housing.
6. Inspect bearings, races, thrust surfaces, bearing bore, and shaft for wear, scoring, pitting, or discoloration.
7. Clean all oil passages with solvent; blow out with compressed air (careful), ensure no blockage.
8. If bearings/seals are worn, install rebuild kit components:
- Replace bearings (journal or ball bearings) and thrust bearing as per kit.
- Replace oil seals and any O‑rings/gaskets.
- Ensure all surfaces are clean and free of burrs.
9. Reassemble CHRA loosely and check radial and axial clearances. Exact clearances require special feeler gauges and factory specs. If you can’t set them to spec, replace CHRA or buy a reman unit.
10. Reinstall compressor and turbine wheels. IMPORTANT: wheels must be balanced together as an assembly. Slight imbalance will cause catastrophic failure at high RPM.

Key note on balancing and tolerances
- The shaft assembly runs at extremely high RPM; even tiny imbalance causes vibration and failure. Proper balancing is done on a dynamic turbo balancing machine to trim weights or match wheels. If you don’t have access, buy a new or reman CHRA. Rebuilding without balancing risks immediate failure.

Cleaning and checking housings
- Check turbine housing for cracks at flange and V‑band, and hot spots.
- Check compressor housing for blade rub marks and bent blades.
- Replace any cracked housings; welded repairs on turbine housings can be done but require expert work and inspection.

Reassembly and torqueing
- Use new gaskets and ensure mating surfaces are clean.
- Install turbo onto manifold and downpipe; torque bolts to factory values (consult service manual). If you don’t have the manual, get the specs — correct torque prevents leaks and broken studs.
- Replace oil feed line and return line (soft lines age/break); always use new copper crush washers if applicable.
- Replace any worn studs and nuts.
- Reconnect coolant lines and top up coolant if drained.
- Reconnect vacuum lines, wastegate actuator and test actuator movement.

Priming the turbo (critical)
- Before first startup after rebuild, ensure turbo is lubricated.
- Two methods:
1) Manual oil prime: remove oil feed fitting, inject fresh engine oil directly into the turbo bearing bore until oil flows from return port. Reattach feed line carefully.
2) Crank priming: with oil filter installed, leave fuel pump relay fuse out (or disable fuel) so engine won’t start. Turn ignition to ON and crank the engine for short bursts (15–20s) to build oil pressure and get oil to the turbo (watch for oil pressure on gauge). Reinstall fuel components and start.
- Both methods reduce risk of dry start. Always see oil flowing out of the return line when priming ideally.

After‑installation checklist and first start
1. Reinstall intake/intercooler piping and clamps; install new gaskets where needed.
2. Reinstall heat shields.
3. Refill engine oil (use new oil and new filter) and coolant.
4. Double‑check all bolts, clamps, hoses, and lines. Check oil feed/return for tightness.
5. Prime as above.
6. Start engine and idle. Listen for unusual noises (rubbing, grinding). Check for oil leaks at feed or return and coolant leaks.
7. Let engine reach normal temp; cycle throttle lightly to verify boost behavior. Do not spike boost under load for the first 500 km after rebuild.
8. Recheck torque on accessible nuts after a short run and after first heat cycle.

Common mistakes to avoid
- Skipping turbo priming — most turbo failures happen at first start from dry bearings.
- Reusing old oil feed/return lines or gaskets.
- Ignoring balancing — assembling wheels without balancing causes failure.
- Using dirty oil or failing to change oil/filter after rebuild; polluted oil will kill the new bearings.
- Tightening bolts without following sequence and correct torque.

Maintenance to prevent future failure
- Regular oil changes with correct spec oil and quality filter.
- Let engine idle briefly after hard pulls to cool turbos, or perform a 30–60 second idle cooldown (especially before shutdown).
- Use quality oil and keep the oil passages and PCV system clean.
- Replace oil feed/return lines and gaskets at first sign of aging.
- Ensure intake air is filtered; prevent debris entry (a damaged air filter or intake leak can let objects into the compressor).
- Monitor boost and have a functioning wastegate and boost control system.

When to replace instead of rebuild
- If turbine/compressor wheels have severe blade damage.
- If shaft is severely scored or bent.
- If center housing bore is damaged or out of spec.
- If you cannot get the CHRA balanced properly — buy a reman turbo or new CHRA.

Model‑specific notes (R32 RB26DETT)
- Twin turbos: repeat removal and inspection for each side. Oil feed commonly comes from one or two feeds on the head — check lines for age. The RB26CHRA is a common replacement item; many owners replace both turbos together for balance and matched performance.
- Wastegates on RB26 are internal to housings but have external actuators — verify they move smoothly and the actuator rod length/stop is correct.
- Use factory replacement parts for studs/gaskets or high‑quality aftermarket designed for RB26.

Final advice
- If your inspection shows only seals/bearings worn and you have access to a reputable turbo rebuilder who can balance and set tolerances, a rebuild can be cost‑effective.
- If you lack access to balancing equipment or precise measuring tools, install a remanufactured turbo or new CHRA to avoid costly repeat failures.

End.
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