1) Quick theory — how the shift drum works
- The shift drum is a cylindrical cam with helical/longitudinal grooves machined on it. Rotating the drum translates cam groove geometry into lateral movement of the selector forks (cam followers) that slide gears or collars on the main/lay shafts. The drum is indexed into discrete positions by a detent/pawl or stop pin so each rotation/step corresponds to a gear ratio or neutral.
- Proper function depends on: accurate groove profile, low radial runout and correct bore fit, solid anchoring/indexing, matching fork tips and rails, correct fork alignment/clearance, and intact detent mechanism. Wear or damage in any of those lets the forks float or miss the groove profile so collars don’t fully engage gears -> missed, noisy or impossible shifts, gear pop-out, or grinding.

2) Symptoms that point to a shift-drum problem
- Missed gears or hard selection between specific gear steps.
- Transmission popping out of gear under load.
- Large lateral/free travel of selector forks or a slopping/uncertain detent.
- Visible scoring/grooving on the drum or on fork tips where they ride.
- Broken indexing pin, sheared roll pins, or damaged detent surfaces.

3) Removal and marking (order)
- Drain gearbox oil and remove shift cover/outer linkages.
- Mark lever and drum orientation so reassembly returns original reference (photo/mark).
- Remove shift lever linkage, shift shaft/stop plate, detent pawl/springs.
- Remove selector forks (note positions) and sliding collars/gear collars as needed.
- Withdraw the selector drum from the case.
Theory: Keep orientation so you don’t alter internal timing/selector indexing. Removing forks lets you inspect contact areas and measure play.

4) Inspection and measurement (order)
- Visually inspect drum grooves for wear, scallops, ridges, gouges or cracks. Run a fingernail test for burrs.
- Measure bore roundness/runout on the drum if you can (dial indicator on a mandrel). Check groove profile consistency along length.
- Inspect fork tips and rails for wear; measure fork tip thickness and clearance in drum grooves.
- Check detent/pawl contact surfaces, stop pin condition, and spring tension.
- Inspect roll pins, locating dowels, thrust washers and any bushings for wear.
Theory: Groove profile and bore integrity guide fork travel; worn fork tips increase side play and concentrate contact, accelerating drum wear. Detent wear yields poor indexing even if drum looks OK.

5) Decide repair or replace (how to choose)
- Replace the drum if:
- Cracks, severe groove distortion, or deep gouges through hardened layer.
- Groove wear is such that fork tip travel is excessive and reconditioning would require re-machining beyond heat-treated surface.
- Consider repair if:
- Minor scoring, shallow wear, or bore ovality that can be corrected by sleeving/bushing.
- Drum material is not deeply hardened or can be re-surface hardened after repair.
Theory: The drum is a hardened cam — improper repair that leaves soft patches or wrong geometry will fail quickly. Replacement is preferred; repair is a tradeoff that must restore hard surface and accurate geometry.

6) Repair methods (ordered from least to most involved)
a) Cleaning and light dressing
- Remove burrs, polish shallow scoring with fine emery or stones. Deburr edges and chamfer entry/exit points of grooves lightly.
Theory: Removes high spots that bind forks and reduces concentrated wear.

b) Replace worn forks, bushings, detent parts
- Fit new selector forks and any liners or fork pads. Replace worn bearings/bushings in drum bore or fork rails.
Theory: Restores proper contact surfaces and eliminates fork-induced wear even if drum is marginal.

c) Bore sleeve / bush
- If the drum bore is oval or worn but drum grooves are acceptable, fit a sleeved bushing in the housing (if design allows) or reline the housing bore and fit drum to correct running fit.
Theory: Corrects drift/runout and maintains drum alignment so grooves track forks accurately.

d) Build-up and re-machine (only when replacement impossible)
- Weld or braze build-up to worn groove areas, rough machine to profile, then hardface or induction-harden the repaired grooves to restore surface hardness, final grind to accurate profile.
- After welding, post-weld heat treatment is required to relieve stress and re-harden surfaces. Hardening method must restore original surface hardness and wear resistance.
Theory: Restoring groove geometry and hardness returns the cam profile and wear resistance so forks move precisely without cutting into the drum.

e) Replace the drum (preferred)
- Install factory/new aftermarket drum with correct hardness and profile.
Theory: Factory part assures correct geometry, material and heat treat; most reliable long-term fix.

7) Reassembly in order (with theory at each step)
- Clean all parts, replace all worn roll pins, circlips and springs. Lubricate moving parts with assembly lube.
- Refit drum in the exact orientation marked earlier. Make sure the drum seats fully and stops/dowels locate correctly.
- Install forks into their grooves, confirm fork rails are fully engaged in drum grooves and collars slide freely.
- Refit detent/pawl and springs, then operate the shift lever while observing indexing to verify positive stops at each gear.
- Reinstall cover, refill gearbox with proper oil.
Theory: Accurate orientation and correct spring tensions ensure the drum indexes into intended positions and forks move symmetrical distances. Fresh pins and springs stop micro-movement that caused initial wear.

8) Bench and road testing (order)
- Bench test: rotate drum through all positions with forks installed; check for smooth transitions, absence of binding, and correct positive detent at each position.
- With tractor, low-speed test through all gears unloaded, then under light load. Listen for grinding and watch for gear pop-out.
- Recheck oil level and inspect for leaks.
Theory: Bench testing verifies mechanical geometry before load. Road test confirms engagement under load and that repairs restored positive engagement and prevented slip or misses.

9) How each repair fixes specific faults (mapping)
- Worn groove -> causes fork tip to ride incorrectly and allows collars to misposition. Repair by re-machining/hardfacing or replacement restores groove geometry and hardness so forks follow exact lateral travel and collars engage.
- Worn/rounded fork tips -> allow axial play and concentrate load on drum grooves. Replacing forks restores full bearing area and reduces pressure on drum grooves.
- Battered detent/pawl -> poor indexing or skipped positions. Replacing or reconditioning detent surfaces and springs restores accurate indexing and eliminates skipped gears.
- Bore wear or runout -> drum tilts or shifts causing uneven groove contact. Bushing/sleeving or replacement restores concentricity so the drum tracks properly.
- Broken roll pins/loose stops -> uncontrolled rotation or lost indexing. Replace pins/stop parts to re-establish positive location and prevent catastrophic shifting.

10) Practical notes and cautions (brief)
- Always prefer replacement over improvised welding unless you can heat-treat and hardface properly. Improper welding often causes rapid re-failure.
- Always replace damaged roll pins, springs, and worn forks together — a new drum with old forks will fail faster.
- Use the service manual for torque and shim specifications; incorrect end-float or preload can cause shifting faults.
- Safety: drain oil, support tractor, and follow standard safety procedures when working under the machine.

Result summary: diagnose whether the problem is geometry (groove wear), contact surface (fork wear), misalignment (bore/runout), or indexing hardware (pins/detent). Fixing replaces or restores the hard, accurately profiled cam surface and corrects contact components and indexing so the selector forks translate drum rotation into precise lateral movement — restoring reliable, positive gear selection.
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