Brakes
Engine Data
Clutch
Gearboxes
Rear Axle
Power Take-Off
Front Axle
Hydraulics
Electrical System
Electronics
Transmission 8 speed, 6 speed
Accessories
Diesel and Petrol/Gasoline Engine
covers the Perkins AD 3.152 Diesel and Continental Z-145 petrol/Gasoline engines
About the Massey Ferguson 200 series
Massey Ferguson Limited is a major agricultural equipment company which was based in Canada, Ontario, Brantford before it was purchased by AGCO. The company was formed by a merger between Massey Harris and the Ferguson business farm machinery producer in 1953, creating the company Massey Harris Ferguson. However, in 1958 the name was shortened for the first time to coin the brand Massey Ferguson. Today the company exists as a brand name utilized by AGCO and remains a major dealer around the world
The firm was founded in 1847 in Ontario, Newcastle by Daniel Massey as the Newcastle Foundry and Machine Manufactory. The business started creating some of the world's starting mechanical threshers, first by assembling parts from the United States and eventually designing and building their own equipment. The firm was taken over and expanded by Daniel's eldest son Hart Massey who renamed it the Massey Manufacturing Co. and in 1879 moved the business to Toronto where it soon became one of the city's leading employers. The massive collection of factories, consisting of a 4.4 hectares (11 acres) site with plant and head office at 915 King Street West, became one of the best known features of the city. Massey expanded the company and began to sell its products internationally. Through extensive advertising campaigns he made it one of the most well known brands in Canada. The firm owed much of its success to Canadian tariffs that prevented the bigger US companies from competing in Canada. A labor shortage throughout the country also helped to make the firm's mechanized equipment very attractive.
Massey Ferguson developed a wide range of agricultural vehicles and have a large share in the market across the world especially in Europe. The company's first mass-produced tractor was the Massey Harris Ferguson TVO which was quickly replaced by the Diesel 20. In 1958 the MF35, the starting Massey Ferguson branded tractor (a Ferguson design) rolled off the factory floor. These tractors were massively popular and sold across the UK, Australia, Ireland and the United States.
From the mid-1970s and early 1980s came the 200 series tractor, which included the MF 230, 235, 240, 245, 250, 255, 260, 265, 270, 275, 278, 280, 285, 290, 298, 299.
Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: metric socket/ratchet set, breaker bar, extensions, torque wrench (0–200 ft·lb or 0–270 N·m range), combination wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers.
- Engine support/hoist or engine stand (if engine removal is needed).
- Jack and heavy-duty jack stands or tractor lift points.
- Oil drain pan, containers for parts and fasteners, rags, solvent.
- Micrometer (0.01 mm or 0.001 in accuracy) for journal diameters.
- Dial bore gauge or inside micrometer for main bore measurements.
- Plastigage (various sizes) or bearing-capacity gauge.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (for crank endplay / runout).
- Torque angle gauge if required by factory procedure.
- Engine assembly lube, clean engine oil.
- New main bearings (standard or undersize), thrust washers, main cap bolts (if recommended), front and rear crank seals, oil pump gasket, oil pan gasket.
- Cleaning brushes, gasket scraper, sealant where specified.
- Shop manual for the specific MF model (for torque specs, part numbers, bearing clearances).
- Optional: bench grinder / engine lathe (for crank regrind) or contact with machine shop.
Safety precautions (must-follow)
- Disconnect battery negative terminal.
- Work on level ground; chock wheels and secure tractor with stands or lift.
- Use proper lifting equipment (engine hoist/stand) rated for the load if engine removal is required.
- Wear eye/hand protection, respirator when solvent-cleaning, and steel-toe boots.
- Support the crank and engine components safely; never rely on jacks alone.
- Keep clean workspace to avoid contamination of bearings and oil passages.
- If you are not equipped for machining (crank regrind, line-boring), stop and use a qualified machine shop.
Overview of the job
Replacing main bearings = removing oiling and rotating components, removing main caps, checking crank journals and bores, fitting new bearings (or installing undersize bearings after machining), setting thrust bearings and clearances, torquing caps to spec, reassembling and verifying oil pressure and endplay.
Step-by-step procedure
1) Preparation
- Read the MF230/235/240/245/250 service manual for engine-specific sequences, torque values and clearances.
- Gather replacement main bearing kits (match part numbers to engine serial), thrust washers, main cap bolts if recommended, seals and gaskets.
- Drain oil and coolant (if removal requires coolant draining). Remove battery.
2) Remove external accessories and ancillaries
- Remove fan, belts, alternator/dynamo, starter, air filter assembly, exhaust manifold as needed to access timing cover and oil pan.
- Remove fuel lines or electrical connector clearances as necessary. Tag hoses/wires.
3) Remove oil pan, oil pump and timing cover
- Unbolt and remove oil pan. Save fasteners in order.
- Remove oil pump (note pickup and screen location) and drain oil from pump.
- Remove timing cover and timing gear/pulley as required to access front of crank and to allow crank removal if needed.
4) Remove crankshaft accessories and flywheel
- Remove front crank pulley/harmonic balancer and flywheel/flexplate (support transmission/clutch).
- If leaving engine in tractor, ensure access to main caps; if not possible, remove engine and mount on stand.
5) Mark everything and loosen main caps
- Number main caps and bearing positions with paint/marker (cap 1, 2, 3 etc.) and note orientation. Always reinstall caps in same position and orientation.
- Clean mating surfaces before disassembly to avoid nicks.
6) Remove rod caps and main caps
- Remove connecting rod caps (mark each rod and cap). Push pistons up slightly to free rods from journals if removing crank.
- Remove main caps one at a time in a recommended sequence (usually progressively, but factory manual will specify). Keep caps and bearings organized.
7) Remove or lift crankshaft
- Carefully lift crank free. Use hoist if heavy. Inspect journals and fillets visually.
- If crank doesn’t remove easily, check for hidden fasteners or dowels.
8) Inspection & measurement
- Clean journals and bores thoroughly with solvent and lint-free cloths.
- Measure crank journal diameters with micrometer at multiple circumferential positions and at each journal.
- Measure main bearing bore diameters / roundness with a dial bore gauge or inside micrometer.
- Measure crankshaft runout, taper and journal out-of-round. Measure crankshaft endplay with dial indicator and thrust surfaces.
- Compare measurements to factory service limits. If journals are scored, worn or out of round beyond limits, crankshaft must be polished or machined (undersize grinding) at a machine shop. If block bores are out of spec, line boring may be required.
9) Decide bearing size
- Select standard or undersize bearings to match crank journal diameter and block bores. Use factory catalog/parts manual for correct shell thickness and oil groove position.
10) Clean block and caps
- Clean oil passages in block and caps. Blow compressed air through passages (wear eye protection) and ensure no debris remains.
- Check main cap fit, dowel pins and mating surfaces for damage.
11) Install new bearings (dry fit checks with Plastigage)
- Place the bearing shells into the block and caps (note tang orientation and correct halves).
- If using Plastigage: cut a narrow strip of plastigage (do not fold) and lay across crank journal width (one strip centered).
- Carefully lower crank into place, rotate slightly to seat, then install main cap and torque to the specified torque (do NOT turn crank during this plastigage check).
- Remove cap, measure the flattened plastigage width with the scale provided and convert to clearance. Clearance must match factory spec (typically a few thousandths of an inch; consult manual).
- If clearance is ok, clean off plastigage residue thoroughly. If not, select different bearing size or send crank for regrind.
12) Final bearing installation
- Apply assembly lube to bearing surfaces.
- Place the bearing shells and carefully lower crank. Install caps in correct order and orientation.
- Torque main cap bolts to factory specification in the correct sequence. If bolts are torque-to-yield or specified as single-use, install new bolts.
- Re-check crankshaft endplay with dial indicator against the timing cover or specified thrust face. Adjust thrust washers/bearing thickness to achieve proper endplay.
13) Reassemble rods and ancillary parts
- Reinstall rod bearings and caps (use assembly lube). Torque rod bolts to spec.
- Reinstall oil pump, timing cover, timing gears, front pulley, flywheel, oil pan (with new gasket/sealant) and other removed accessories.
- Replace front and rear crank seals when reassembling.
14) Fill, prime and test
- Fill with recommended oil and new filter.
- Prime oil system if possible (oil pump prefill or crank turning).
- Start engine and monitor oil pressure, listen for unusual noises.
- After initial break-in run, shut down and re-torque caps/bearings if manual requires a re-torque.
- Change oil and filter after specified break-in interval to remove any debris.
How key tools are used
- Plastigage: place a single thin strip across the journal, assemble cap and torque to spec, remove cap and compare flattened width to the Plastigage chart to determine clearance. Do not roll the crank with plastigage installed.
- Micrometer: measure crank journal diameter at several points around circumference and along length. Record values to detect taper and ovality.
- Dial bore gauge/inside micrometer: measure main bore diameter and roundness. Compare to journal diameter to compute clearance or to select bearing size.
- Dial indicator: mount on block and push on crank flange or thrust face to measure endplay. Record movement and compare to spec.
- Torque wrench: use for final tightening of main caps and rods in the proper sequence and to exact spec. Use calibrated wrench and correct torque method (gradual steps to final torque).
Replacement parts required (typical)
- Main bearing set (upper and lower shells) sized to journal or undersize where specified.
- Thrust washers or thrust bearing shells.
- Main cap bolts (if specified as torque-to-yield or if damaged/corroded).
- Front and rear crankshaft oil seals.
- Oil pan gasket, pump gasket and any other seals disturbed.
- Piston/rod bearings only if showing wear/damage.
- Possibly oil pump or screen replacement if contaminated.
- If crank is worn/scored beyond limits: crankshaft grinding to undersize and matching undersize bearings; if heavily damaged, crank replacement.
Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Reusing bearings of the wrong size: always measure journals and bores and match bearing thickness. Avoid guesswork.
- Losing cap orientation/position: mark caps and caps’ mating faces. Reinstall exactly where they came from.
- Dirty assembly: dirt or metal shards will kill bearings quickly. Keep everything extremely clean and blow out oil passages.
- Incorrect torque or sequence: always use factory torque specs and sequence. Under- or over-torque will cause bearing failure.
- Not checking endplay/thrust: incorrect thrust clearance can make clutch/flywheel or seal problems and cause bearing failure.
- Using plastigage improperly: do not rotate crank with plastigage in place; use only one strip across width; torque to the correct spec.
- Ignoring crank damage: polishing deep scores without proper undersize bearings or regrind will shorten life. If journals require regrind, use a machine shop and fit matching bearings.
- Reusing old oil seals/gaskets: they are cheap insurance—replace them.
- Not replacing contaminated oil/filter: always flush and replace oil and filter after major internals work.
Final notes
- Exact torque numbers, bearing clearances and part numbers vary by engine serial and year — consult the factory service manual for the exact MF model engine before starting.
- If crank journals are beyond spec or block bores are out-of-round, use a reputable machine shop for regrind/line-boring and fit correct undersize bearings.
- Proper bearing installation and cleanliness are the most critical factors for long service life.
No further questions. rteeqp73
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