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Massey Ferguson MF4200 tractor factory workshop and repair manual download

Quick summary (so you know what you’re doing): wheel bearings let the wheel spin smoothly while carrying the tractor’s weight and resisting side loads. On an MF4200 you’ll commonly see tapered roller bearings in a hub/spindle arrangement or sealed cartridge hubs. This guide explains the components, the why and how, and a clear step‑by‑step replacement procedure for a beginner mechanic. Follow factory torque/preload specs for your exact model; consult the MF4200 service manual for numeric values and jack points.

Safety first (no surprises):
- Work on a flat level surface. Chock wheels and remove key, PTO off.
- Use the correct jack(s) and place jack stands under the axle/housing — never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Keep hands clear of pressurized tools and moving parts.
- If you’re unsure at any point, stop and get help from a qualified mechanic.

What the parts are and what they do (every component described):
- Wheel and tire: bolt to the hub; transfers load to the hub.
- Lug nuts / studs: fasteners that hold wheel to hub.
- Hub (wheel hub): the rotating assembly that the wheel bolts to; contains bearings and sometimes reduction gears or a seal.
- Dust cap / grease cap: thin metal cap covering the spindle nut and grease cavity on serviceable hubs.
- Bearing(s): typically two tapered roller bearings (inner and outer) or a single sealed cartridge bearing. Tapered rollers carry radial and axial loads because their geometry transforms forces into stable contact.
- Bearing races (cups/inner race): hardened steel rings the bearings roll on. One race is pressed into the hub, the other rides on the spindle/axle.
- Spindle / axle stub: the stationary shaft that the hub turns on; the inner bearing rides on the spindle.
- Bearing retainer (spindle nut / castle nut): holds hub and bearings on the spindle and sets preload (endplay).
- Washer / lock washer / castellated washer: sits between nut and hub, used with cotter pin.
- Cotter pin: locks the castle nut so it cannot unwind.
- Seal: rubber/metal ring that keeps grease in and contaminants out.
- Grease (wheel bearing grease): heavy-duty lithium/complex bearing grease packed into bearing cavity.
- Hub carrier / hub flange / wheel drive flange (on drive axles): supports hub; may carry brake or final drive components.
- Brake drum / disc (if integrated): may be the wheel hub or attached; remove or support as necessary.
- Shims (in some setups): thin rings used to set bearing preload accurately.

Theory — why bearings fail and why this repair is needed:
- Bearings let rotation happen with low friction and carry heavy loads. They must be lubricated and free of dirt/water.
- Common failure causes: contamination (mud/water), loss of grease, overheating, improper preload/installation, damaged races, or wear from age.
- Symptoms of bad bearings: growling or humming noise at speed, vibration in steering or chassis, play/looseness in the wheel, excessive heat at hub, grease leaking or metal particles in grease.
- If you leave a bad bearing, it will score the race and spindle, leading to hub failure and possibly wheel separation — dangerous.

Analogies:
- Bearings are like railroad wheels and rails: rollers are the wheels, races are the rails. If rails (races) are pitted or dirty the wheels don’t ride smoothly.
- The seal is like a door gasket that keeps dust and water out and oil/grease in.

Tools & parts you’ll need:
- Service manual for MF4200 (for jack points, torque and preload specs).
- Heavy-duty jack and jack stands or a lift (rated for tractor weight).
- Wheel chocks.
- Lug wrench or impact gun with correct sockets.
- Breaker bar and socket set for spindle nut.
- Torque wrench (suitable for lug nuts and spindle nut range).
- Hammer and drift/punch, soft‑mallet or dead blow.
- Bearing puller / hub puller (if hub is tight) and hub driver / bearing driver / large sockets for installing races/seals.
- Hydraulic press (for pressing bearings/races in large hubs) or bearing installer set.
- Seal driver or correct-sized socket for seals.
- Bearing grease gun and wheel bearing grease (heavy duty).
- Brake cleaner, rags, wire brush.
- New bearings, races, seals, dust cap, cotter pin, spindle nut (use OEM parts).
- Dial indicator (optional) for measuring endplay; feeler gauge or depth micro for shims if needed.
- PPE: gloves, safety glasses.

General approaches you’ll encounter (choose the one your hub uses):
1. Serviceable hub with tapered rollers: bearings and seals are serviceable. You clean and repack bearings and replace seals/possibly the races.
2. Sealed cartridge hub: replace the entire hub cartridge assembly — simpler, no packing.
3. Hub with pressed-in races/planetary final drive: may need press or shop to replace races/bearings.

Step-by-step procedure (serviceable tapered-roller hub) — follow in order:

Preparation:
1. Consult the MF4200 manual for correct jack points and torque/preload specs. Gather parts and tools.
2. Park tractor on level ground, chock remaining wheels, set parking brake, PTO off. Remove key.

Raise and remove wheel:
3. Loosen lug nuts slightly while tractor is on ground.
4. Jack tractor at safe point, support on jack stands. Remove lug nuts and wheel; set aside.

Expose hub internals:
5. Remove dust/grease cap. Pry it off carefully with a screwdriver or use a soft mallet to avoid damaging.
6. Remove cotter pin from the castle nut (if present). Remove washer and nut.
7. Carefully slide the hub off the spindle. If brakes drum or disk is integrated, you may need to remove the drum or caliper first. Support the hub as it comes off — it can be heavy.

Inspect parts:
8. Remove outer bearing from hub (it will usually come out with the hub). Remove inner bearing and inner race (race may remain on hub or spindle).
9. Clean parts with brake cleaner on a rag and inspect:
- Bearings: look for pitting, discoloration, flat spots; replace bearings if any damage.
- Races: shine surface should be smooth; any roughness/pitting = replace race and bearing.
- Spindle: smooth, no deep scores. Minor scratches can be lightly polished; deep grooves require spindle repair or replacement.
- Hub bore: check for corrosion or galling where race sits.
- Seal seating area: should be smooth.

Removing and replacing races/seals:
10. If races are stuck in hub, remove with a race/tube driver or carefully use a drift and hammer, tapping alternately to avoid cocking. If very tight, use a shop press or take to a shop.
11. Install new races into hub using a race driver or a socket that contacts only the outer race lip. Drive straight and don’t cock the race. Ensure it seats fully.
12. Install the inner bearing into the hub (if installing from inside, grease the bearing or pack it beforehand). Install new oil seal with a seal driver so it’s flush; taking care not to distort the seal.

Packing bearings with grease:
13. Pack bearings by hand or machine: push grease into rollers between rollers until grease is forced out both sides (classic hand-packing method), or use a bearing packer. Use recommended wheel bearing grease.
14. Insert the inner bearing (packed) and inner grease until hub cavity is filled as manual recommends.

Reinstall hub and set preload:
15. Slide hub assembly back onto spindle over inner bearing. Insert outer (packed) bearing in hub.
16. Install washer and spindle nut. Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the hub to seat bearings and eliminate play. How you set this matters:
- For many tapered-roller setups you tighten to a running torque to seat, then back off to a specified endplay (manufacturer spec). For others you tighten to a specified torque and then back off to align cotter pin.
- Use a dial indicator to check endplay per manual, or use the “feel” method: tighten until slight drag, back off a small amount until free rotation with no play but slight resistance.
17. Once correct preload/endplay is achieved, align castle nut slot with spindle hole and insert cotter pin; bend ends to secure. If alignment doesn’t occur, use the next notch on nut or use a new thinner washer/shim per manual — don’t overtighten to force alignment.

Reinstall dust cap and wheel:
18. Reinstall grease/dust cap. If there’s a grease zerk, pack a little more grease until you see grease at seal lip.
19. Mount wheel, tighten lug nuts snug, lower tractor, torque lug nuts in star pattern to spec.

Final checks and test:
20. Spin wheel by hand: should rotate freely with just slight drag; no play.
21. Road test at low speed: listen for noise, check for heat after short run. Re-torque lug nuts after first use per manual.

If hub is a sealed cartridge:
- Remove wheel, unbolt hub assembly and replace the entire sealed hub cartridge with new unit. Torque bolts to spec. Sealed units eliminate packing and most race work.

Common things that go wrong and how to avoid them:
- Wrong parts: always use OEM or exact spec bearings and seals. Wrong races or bearings won’t seat properly.
- Contamination: dirt/water in bearings kills them quickly. Replace seals and cleanliness matters — work in a clean area.
- Incorrect preload / overtightening: too tight = increased heat and premature failure; too loose = play and race damage. Use service manual procedure; use a dial indicator if possible.
- Damaging races/spindle by hammering incorrectly: use correct drivers or press.
- Not replacing a damaged race: replacing only the bearing when the race is worn will cause immediate failure.
- Not securing the castle nut (no cotter pin): nut can rotate off — catastrophic.
- Overlooking brake components: if drum/caliper is integrated, remove and reinstall properly; check brake condition.
- Reusing old grease: always clean and repack with fresh grease unless hub is sealed.

When to take it to a shop:
- If races require pressing and you lack a press or driver set.
- If spindle shows deep scoring or is damaged — press replacement or repair may be needed.
- If you can’t set preload accurately (no spec or dial indicator).
- If the hub is part of a final drive (planetary) and you’re unsure.

Maintenance tips to extend life:
- Grease regularly per maintenance schedule (MF manual interval).
- Keep dust caps/seals in good condition.
- Avoid running through deep water repeatedly.
- Inspect bearings during seasonal servicing.

Wrap up (quick checklist before you finish):
- New bearings/races/seals installed and seated correctly.
- Spindle nut set with correct preload, cotter pin installed.
- Dust cap sealed and any grease zerk used.
- Lug nuts torqued to spec and wheel tested.
- No play, no unusual noise, hub not overheating after test run.

That’s the full procedure and component-by-component explanation. Follow the MF4200 service manual for the exact torque and preload numbers; incorrect numeric values are the most common cause of repeat failures.
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