1) Fault overview — what’s wrong and why replacing the pump may fix it
- Function of the transmission/CVT pump: it draws transmission fluid from the sump and pressurises it to supply the hydraulic circuits (line pressure), the torque converter, the pulley actuators (on a CVT) and the valve body/solenoids. The pump is usually a gerotor/rotor assembly and depends on tight internal clearances to make pressure.
- Failure modes: internal wear (increased clearances), scoring/contamination, failed shaft/bearing, or a cracked housing reduce flow or pressure. Result: low line pressure → slipping, lack of drive, delayed engagement, overheating, poor hydraulic control, fault codes. Replacing the pump restores the hydraulic pressure source, so the valve body/actuators and torque converter receive correct pressure and the transmission returns to normal operation — provided downstream components (valves, converters, cooler, lines) are not ruined by contamination.

2) Preparatory checks (why you do them)
- Symptom verification and scan: confirm transmission faults, pressure-related symptoms and stored codes so pump replacement is justified. (Theory: isolate pump problem from sensors/solenoids.)
- Drain/collect fluid sample: check for metal particles or burnt fluid. (Theory: contamination indicates internal wear that may affect other parts.)
- Gather parts: new pump, new sump gasket/strainer (filter) if applicable, new seals/O-rings, correct Nissan CVT fluid (factory spec), new bolts if one‑time use, and new cooler-line O-rings. Have a factory service manual for torque specs and procedures.

3) Safety and setup
- Disconnect battery (prevents electrical shorts, airbag/ECU issues).
- Elevate vehicle on level lift/ramps and secure. Place drain pans and prepare fluid recovery. (Theory: level and secure car allow safe removal and accurate fluid fill later.)

4) Drain transmission fluid and remove in‑service items
- Drain CVT fluid into a clean container and inspect. (Theory: removes bulk fluid, reduces mess and weight.)
- Remove intercooler/cooler lines or disconnect them from the transmission (catch remaining fluid). Cap lines to avoid contamination.
- Remove wiring connectors to transmission, selector cables/shift linkage, speed sensors and any sensors attached to the case. Label connectors. (Theory: necessary to separate transmission while avoiding damage and misrouting.)
- Remove driveshafts/axles (halfshafts) from hubs or transmission as required. (Theory: clears transmission removal path.)

5) Support engine/transmission and remove transmission
- Support engine if the trans mount supports are removed. Support transmission with jack.
- Remove transmission mount(s), bellhousing bolts (engine-to-trans). Remove starter if blocking access. Unbolt torque converter to flexplate if required (some designs separate transmission from engine with converter still on trans). Carefully separate transmission from engine and lower it. (Theory: necessary to access pump which is inside/at front of the transmission case.)
- Note: follow OEM sequence and lifting points. Use alignment dowels on reassembly.

6) Accessing and removing the pump
- With the transmission removed, place it on a bench. Remove external housings as per manual to access pump area (on many CVTs the pump is behind the front cover/main case).
- Remove fluid pan/sump and strainer/filter (if applicable). Inspect magnet for debris (the presence of metal means other wear).
- Remove the front cover or pump cover bolts and extract the pump assembly. Take care to note orientation and any dowels. (Theory: getting direct access to the pumping element to replace worn gerotor/rotor or pump assembly.)
- Inspect mating surfaces, bearings and the input shaft, pump drive gear and seals. If bearings or shafts are worn, they must be replaced—pump failure can be caused by these secondary failures.

7) Replace pump and associated seals/filters
- Install new pump assembly with new O-rings/seals and gaskets, ensuring correct orientation and torque of bolts to factory spec. Replace the strainer/filter and sump gasket. Clean mating surfaces. (Theory: new pump restores internal clearances, so it can generate correct suction and line pressure; new seals prevent internal leakage that reduces pressure.)
- Replace any damaged bearings, shaft or coupling used to drive pump. Replace any worn valve body parts or heavily contaminated components — otherwise new pump may be damaged by remaining debris.

8) Reassemble transmission and reinstall
- Reinstall front cover/sump/bolts to spec, ensure torque patterns and specifications per service manual. Refit transmission to engine using dowels and correct torque sequence; reconnect torque converter to flexplate if applicable. Reinstall mounts, axles, cooler lines and all electrical connectors. (Theory: correct reassembly ensures pump is properly driven and hydraulic circuits are sealed; correct torques prevent leaks and misalignment.)
- Replace cooler-line O-rings and tighten lines to spec. Reinstall any removed exhaust, cross-members, heat shields.

9) Refill fluid and bleeding procedure
- Refill with Nissan-specified CVT fluid to the service fill level (use OEM fluid type). Many CVTs require fill with engine running and at operating temp, using dipstick or designated fill port and a certain fluid temperature/gear selector position to set level. Follow the exact manufacturer procedure for fluid level check and fill. (Theory: correct fluid volume and temperature are essential to achieve correct pressure and lubrication; overfill/underfill change pressures and cause damage.)
- If the system has cooler lines and an external cooler, flush cooler lines before refilling to remove debris. (Theory: prevents recontamination of the new pump.)

10) Pressure test and verification
- Before finalizing, perform static line-pressure checks at designated test ports with a pressure gauge while engine idles and selector positions are changed as per manual. Verify pump generates specified pressures. (Theory: confirms the pump and hydraulic circuit are functioning and that pressures meet design values.)
- Clear codes, run through diagnostic modes and confirm no new pressure-related codes. Perform a road test with careful warm-up, checking for smooth engagement, no slipping, correct acceleration and no leaks.

11) Final checks and monitoring
- After initial test drive, recheck transmission fluid level when at proper temperature. Reinspect for leaks and re-scan for codes after a short drive. Monitor fluid condition and temperature closely for first few hundred km. (Theory: early detection prevents damage if contamination persists or another component is failing.)

How the repair fixes the fault — summary theory
- A worn or damaged pump cannot develop required line pressure because internal clearances, damaged pumping elements, seals or bearings let fluid slip internally. That lowers hydraulic pressure feeding valves, pulley actuators and the torque converter, causing slippage, poor control and overheating.
- Replacing the pump restores the mechanical ability to pressurize fluid to specification. With correct line pressure, valves and solenoids can generate correct hydraulic forces, the torque converter receives proper flow and pressure, and the CVT or automatic regains correct control and engagement characteristics.
- Caveat: if contamination from the failed pump has damaged the valve body, solenoids, torque converter, or the cooler, simply installing a new pump may not fully fix the problem. That’s why inspection/cleaning/replacement of the filter/strainer, cooler lines and inspection of valve body/torque converter is required.

Essential cautions (no-nonsense)
- Use factory procedures and torque specs. Wrong torques or misalignment cause leaks and internal damage.
- Use correct Nissan CVT fluid and fill/level procedure — CVTs are sensitive to fluid type and level.
- Cleanliness is critical — contamination will kill a new pump quickly.
- If you don’t have the manual, specialized tools (transmission jack, pressure gauge) or experience, have a trained transmission technician do it.

End.
rteeqp73

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