Short version up front
- Planetary (epicyclic) gearsets are the core of an automatic gearbox and some transfer cases. Replacing one means removing the transmission or transfer case, disassembling to the carrier/sun/planet/ring assembly, swapping worn parts (planet gears, sun, ring, bearings, thrust washers, snap rings), measuring clearances, then reassembling with new seals/gaskets and fresh fluid.
- This is intermediate-to-advanced work: it requires a transmission jack or hoist, special pullers, measuring tools (dial indicator, feeler gauges), and the factory service manual for exact torque and shim specs. Read all steps before starting.

I. Theory — how the planetary gearset works (simple, non‑technical)
Think of a miniature solar system:
- Sun gear = the “Sun” in the middle.
- Planet gears = little “planets” that orbit the sun on a carrier.
- Ring gear = a fixed circular “space fence” with teeth on the inside.
- Carrier = the frame that holds the planet gears and connects to an output shaft.

The gearset creates different gear ratios by locking or driving different members:
- If the ring is held and the sun is driven, the carrier turns at a reduced speed (gear reduction).
- If the carrier is held and the sun is driven, the ring turns in the opposite direction (reverse).
- If parts are locked together, you get a 1:1 drive.

In an automatic transmission the gearbox uses clutches and brakes (and sometimes one-way sprag clutches) to hold or connect sun, ring, or carrier in different combinations to make first, second, third (etc.) gears without changing gears physically.

Why it fails / why you’d replace the planetary set
- Wear: gear teeth pitting, chipped teeth, twisted teeth from overload.
- Bearing failure: planet bearings or carrier bearings seize or get play.
- Thrust washer wear: excessive endplay or metal-on-metal contact causes noise and slipping.
- Overheated/burned clutches: leads to slipping and accelerated gear damage.
- Contaminated fluid: metal debris from failing planet gears circulates and damages other parts.
- Impact/abuse: towing, high torque, or shock loads can snap planet pins or crack carrier.

II. Components you will see and what each does (detailed)
- Ring gear (annulus): large outer gear with internal teeth. Engages planet gears. Can be part of the case or removable.
- Sun gear: central gear, normally splined to input or a shaft. Drives planet gears.
- Planet gears (x3–x5 usually): rotate on planet pins/bushings; carry load between sun and ring.
- Planet carrier: hub that holds planet shafts/pins and transfers torque to output.
- Planet pins/shafts: fixed or floating pins the planets rotate on. Sometimes removable.
- Planet bushings/bearings: roller or needle bearings or bronze bushings that support planets.
- Thrust washers/shims: thin metal discs that set endplay between rotating surfaces.
- Snap rings/circlips: keep components axially located.
- Bearings supporting the carrier and input/output shafts: support radial and axial loads.
- Seals & gaskets: keep hydraulic fluid inside and contaminants out.
- Clutch packs/brake bands: not part of the gearset itself but they engage the gearset members during operation.
- One-way sprag/clutch: allows rotation in one direction, locks in the other — common in automatic transmissions.
- Output/input shafts & splines: mechanical connection points to other drivetrain components.
- Housing/case: supports the gears and bearings, sometimes contains the ring gear.

III. Tools and supplies (essential)
- Factory service manual for your specific transmission/transfer case (mandatory for torque, shim, and clearance specs).
- Vehicle lift or heavy duty jack + stands and transmission jack.
- Basic hand tools: sockets, ratchets, extensions, breaker bar, wrench set.
- Torque wrench (measureable in the needed ranges).
- Snap-ring pliers (internal & external).
- Bearing puller / slide hammer / press.
- Seal driver set and soft mallet.
- Gear puller set.
- Dial indicator (with magnetic base) for backlash and endplay checks.
- Feeler gauges for thrust checks.
- Calipers and micrometer (measuring teeth, shaft diameters).
- Parts cleaner, lint-free rags.
- High-temp grease and proper transmission fluid.
- New parts: planetary set (sun, planets, ring, bearings), thrust washers, snap rings, all seals/gaskets, any related bearings and possibly clutch packs if contaminated.
- Clean containers / labeled bags for bolts/parts, marker, camera to document disassembly.

IV. Diagnosis — how to know the planetary needs replacement
- Symptoms: clunking/knocking on engagement, slipping in particular gears, inability to hold a gear ratio, burnt fluid smell, metal particles in pan/magnetic drain plug, noise that changes with load, failure to move in selected gear (stuck in neutral-like state).
- Inspect the fluid: dark, burnt smell, metal shavings, clutch debris indicate internal damage.
- Remove the oil pan and filter to inspect for heavy metal or chunks of gear material.
- If metal is concentrated around magnets or you find chunks, planetary gear damage is likely.

V. High‑level procedure (full replacement) — overview steps
1) Safety and prep
2) Drain fluid, remove driveshafts, disconnect wiring/linkages, remove transmission from vehicle (or remove transfer case)
3) Disassemble to access planetary assembly (remove valve body/clutches as needed)
4) Remove planetary assembly and inspect every component
5) Replace worn/damaged gears, bearings, thrust washers, and snap rings
6) Clean all passages, measure clearances and backlash, fit shims as required
7) Reassemble using new seals/gaskets and correct torque values
8) Reinstall transmission, fill with correct fluid, run-in and test

VI. Detailed step-by-step (expanded, beginner‑friendly)
Note: read whole section before starting. Follow manual exactly for bolt torques, shim sizes, and sequences.

1) Safety and workspace
- Park on level, hard surface. Use wheel chocks. Disconnect battery.
- Use a lift or at least heavy-duty jack + stands rated for the vehicle. Transmission is heavy; support it with a transmission jack.
- Clean workspace; lay out a clean area to keep parts organized. Take pictures at every step.

2) Fluid drain and removal of peripheral components
- Drain transmission/transfer case fluid into a drain pan. Remove drain plug or loosen pan bolts.
- Remove driveshaft(s), crossmember(s), exhaust parts or anything blocking transmission removal.
- Disconnect electrical connectors, speedometer cable, shifter linkage, cooler lines (cap these to prevent contamination).
- Support transmission with jack, remove transmission mount bolts, and unbolt from engine. Carefully separate and lower with the jack.

3) Transmission disassembly to get to planetary gears
- Remove bellhousing cover and torque converter (if automatic) — follow manual for marks.
- Remove valve body if needed to access clutch drums; be careful with check balls and springs — keep orientation.
- Remove clutch drums/gear packs to expose the planetary carrier. This often means removing snap rings, pistons, and springs.
- Keep clutch pack orientation and direction — number and order are critical.

4) Removing the planetary set
- Identify ring gear and carrier. If ring is bolted to case, remove bolts; if integral, you’ll be handling an assembly.
- Remove retaining snap rings and withdraw the carrier assembly. Use a press/puller if necessary.
- Pull planet gears off pins. If planets are on bushings, remove these and inspect for scoring.
- Remove sun gear; check splines and tooth condition.

5) Inspect all parts (do not skip)
- Inspect teeth for pitting, chips, heavy wear, or cracked teeth.
- Check bearings: spin them; feel for roughness or play.
- Check planet pins for scoring, measure diameters against new parts.
- Inspect thrust washers for discoloration, uneven wear, or metal removal.
- Inspect snap ring grooves and shafts for burrs or peening.
- Check carrier for cracks around pin bores and bolt bosses.
- If fluid contained metal, inspect clutch packs and valve body for contamination.

6) Measuring and deciding what to replace
- Measure radial play/backlash between ring and planet/sun using dial indicator. Compare to manual spec. Too much = worn gears or wrong shims.
- Measure endplay of carrier on its bearings with feeler gauge or dial indicator—excessive endplay suggests worn thrust washers or carriers, which must be replaced or shimmed.
- Replace any components showing wear beyond service limits. Often replacing the entire planetary kit (sun, all planets, ring, bearings, thrusts) is safer.

7) Replacement parts and assembly prep
- Clean all parts in solvent; dry and inspect again. Clean oil passages and magnet surfaces.
- Replace bearings, bushings, and thrust washers with new parts. Old thrust washers are often non-reusable.
- Apply assembly lube or transmission fluid to bearings and gear teeth during assembly.
- If shims or thrust washers are used to set endplay, adjust to manual spec during dry fit.

8) Reassembly of planetary gearset
- Install sun gear and ensure proper seating and splines.
- Fit planet gears on pins/bushings into carrier; secure with correct snap rings or bolts and torque as specified.
- Fit carrier into ring gear; check axial location with thrust washers and snap rings.
- Use dial indicator to measure backlash and endplay, adjust shims/washers until within spec.
- Reinstall drums, clutches, valve body, torque converter, and any removed components in reverse order. Replace seals and gaskets.

9) Reinstall transmission and final checks
- Lift transmission into position; align input shaft spline with torque converter and pilot. Engage and bolt to engine.
- Reconnect wiring, cooler lines, driveshafts, mounts.
- Refill with the exact type and amount of fluid specified in the manual.
- Start engine, check for leaks, run through gears with brakes set (carefully) and watch fluid pressure and shifts.
- Road test under light load; recheck fluid level after temperature stabilizes.

VII. What can go wrong — preventable mistakes and failure modes
- Wrong shims/clearances: leads to whining, premature wear, or catastrophic failure. Measure, don’t guess.
- Reusing worn thrust washers or bearings: will give same symptoms quickly. Replace wear items.
- Contamination: reusing dirty parts or allowing debris into internals will damage new parts. Keep everything clean.
- Improper torque or missed bolts: causes oil leaks, broken components, or misalignment.
- Incorrect snap-ring seating: can allow axial movement and catastrophic failure.
- Damaged splines on input/output: tough to repair, often means additional part replacement.
- Overfilled or underfilled fluid: causes overheating, slippage, or poor lubrication.
- Reusing old seals/gaskets: leads to leaks and contamination entry.
- Not replacing clutch packs when contaminated: slippage will continue and damage the new planetary set.
- Skipping the electrical calibration or shift adaptation step (some modern transmissions need ECU relearn).

VIII. Testing after repair
- Static checks: rotate input and observe output for correct direction and ratio if you have bench setup.
- Pressure tests: check hydraulic pressures if you have the gauges.
- Dynamic checks: shift through each gear with vehicle on stands first, then road test. Listen for whining, crunching, or slippage.
- Recheck fluid level hot and cold per manual.

IX. Tips & analogies for beginners
- Analogy: Planetary gears are a set of cogs inside a small compass of parts — what you hold or drive determines the path. Think of clutches/brakes as “which roads are open or blocked” that channel power through that compass.
- Take lots of photos and label parts as you remove them. Reverse assembly must be exact.
- Bag and label bolts by location. Bolt lengths and patterns vary.
- If you find one damaged planet, replace the whole set. Gears share load; a single weak link will fail again.
- If heavy debris is in the pan, plan on a full teardown and inspection — patch repairs won't hold.

X. When to farm it out
- If you lack a transmission jack, press, dial indicator, or manual with specs, consider a professional transmission shop. Diagnosis and setting correct clearances is critical — wrong settings often ruin a new gearset.

XI. Quick checklist before you start
- Service manual and torque/spec sheet in hand
- All replacement parts & seals
- Proper tools and workspace
- Fluid & filters on hand
- Time: expect a full day or more even for an experienced mechanic; plan accordingly

Closing — final cautions
- This repair is do‑able by a determined beginner with careful attention to detail, the right tools, and the factory manual. But it’s unforgiving of sloppy work. Verify every measurement against the manual and don’t reuse wear items. Replace seals and clean everything thoroughly.

No Yapping.
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Tools & gear needed
- Four-wheel alignment machine (preferred): wheel clamps/sensors, turntables/slip plates, computer/printer. OR basic tools for DIY checks: two toe plates or straight-edge/string, tape measure, digital camber gauge / inclinometer, adjustable turn plates, steering wheel holder, jack and quality jackstands or 2-post lift, torque wrench, wheel chocks, chalk/marker.
- Hand tools: spanners, sockets, breaker bar, adjustable wrench, long pry bar, tie-rod puller/pickle fork, penetrating oil, hammer.
- Safety: wheel chocks, gloves, eye protection, worklights.

Safety precautions
- Work on a level surface. Use a lift or properly rated jackstands; never rely on a hydraulic jack alone.
- Chock rear wheels when lifting front, and vice‑versa. Engage parking brake.
- Release tension from any spring/strut only with spring compressors designed for the job.
- Wear eye protection when breaking fasteners; support components before removing bolts.
- Follow vehicle manufacturer torque specs when re-tightening.

Pre-check (do not start alignment until these are done)
1. Tires: confirm correct pressure, check tread condition and even wear. Replace badly worn/cupped tires before aligning.
2. Wheels: ensure no bent rims; balance if wobble is present.
3. Suspension & steering inspection: check tie-rod ends, ball joints, control-arm bushings, strut mounts, sway bar links, wheel bearings, steering rack boots for play or damage. Replace any worn/wobbled parts before aligning.
4. Ride height: remove heavy aftermarket racks; set vehicle to normal operating load (manufacturer often specifies no extra load or a nominal driver weight). Some shops place ~75 kg on driver seat for repeatability.
5. Steering: ensure no excessive free play. Center steering wheel and lock it.

Using a professional 3D alignment machine (recommended)
1. Mount wheel clamps/sensors solidly to each wheel per the machine instructions. Clean rims where clamps sit.
2. Enter vehicle data into the alignment computer: wheelbase, track width, model/year and suspension type (3D units may auto-identify).
3. Calibrate sensors / rotate wheels as directed until machine confirms zero/calibrated.
4. Raise vehicle slightly so turntables/slip plates are free if required, then lower until full vehicle weight rests on wheels (machine instruction).
5. Center steering wheel (machine will show if off-center). Use steering wheel holder; adjust tie-rod equal amounts to center wheel if required.
6. Run the initial measurement. Machine will show toe, camber, caster, thrust angle, individual toe per wheel, SAI etc.
7. Adjust in order:
- Camber/caster first (strut top eccentric bolts, cam bolts, adjustable control arms or shims). On Mitsubishi front MacPherson strut cars camber is typically adjusted at the strut top or with eccentric bolts; caster adjustment may be via eccentric bushes or adjustable arms—consult vehicle manual.
- Toe last. Adjust tie-rod sleeves equally on both sides to bring total toe to spec and keep steering wheel centered.
- Rear axle adjustments: on leaf‑spring solid-axle trucks (many 4D56 L200/Strada), rear toe/thrust angle adjusted by shims or adjustable track rods. On multi-link rears (Pajero/Delica) use eccentric bolts or adjustable links.
8. After each adjustment, re-measure until all parameters meet factory specs within tolerance.
9. Torque all adjustment fasteners to manufacturer specs after final settings.
10. Test drive and re-check alignment and steering wheel center.

How the alignment tools are used (practical)
- Wheel clamps/sensors: clamp to rim; sensor must sit flat and vertical as directed. They communicate wheel angle to computer; make sure no loose clamps or damaged rims.
- Turntables/slip plates: placed under front wheels to allow free steering movement with minimal friction so caster and toe change measurements are accurate.
- Camber gauge / inclinometer: place flat against wheel rim or on brake disc face (clean surface). Read degrees; positive camber means top of wheel out, negative means in.
- Toe plates/string method (DIY): set two parallel plates or strings along vehicle centerline (use wheel hubs or transom string line). Measure front edge-to-edge distance between left & right wheel rims and rear edge distance. Total toe = rear distance − front distance; toe per wheel = total/2. Positive number = toe-in.
- Turn-and-measure for caster (DIY, approximate): using a camber gauge or inclinometer, measure camber with wheel centered, then lock wheel at a known turn angle (e.g., 20° left), record camber, then 20° right, record. Use a caster gauge or follow device-specific calculator—this method is approximate; use a shop alignment machine for accurate caster.

DIY step-by-step (basic toe & camber check)
1. Ensure tires at spec pressure, vehicle at normal ride height, steering wheel centered and locked.
2. Mark a reference line on each rim at hub height (so you measure same vertical level).
3. Toe (tape measure method): measure distance between front edges of the wheels (same points left/right). Measure distance between rear edges. Total toe = rear − front. Convert to mm or degrees per spec (factory gives toe in mm or degrees). Adjust tie-rods equally until within spec.
4. Camber (inclinometer): place gauge on rim or brake disc face, read degrees. Adjust camber if adjustable (usually via strut top eccentrics or cam bolts).
5. Re-check after any adjustment and do a short test drive.

Common replacement parts required for a typical 4D56 vehicle alignment
- Inner/outer tie‑rod ends (most common).
- Ball joints.
- Control arm bushings or control arms.
- Strut mounts / top mounts and bearings.
- Cam bolts, eccentric bolts, alignment shims.
- Rear track rod or adjusting links (on vehicles with adjustable rear geometry).
- Wheel bearings (if play is present).
- Steering rack components (if worn).

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Trying to align with worn suspension/steering parts — always replace bad parts first.
- Incorrect ride height or uneven loads — set vehicle to normal weight condition.
- Not centering the steering wheel before toe adjustment — results in off-center steering.
- Adjusting toe before camber/caster — toe must be final adjustment.
- Using inconsistent measuring points on rims — always measure at the same height/points.
- Over-tightening adjustment bolts without confirming final position — torque after final check.
- Assuming factory specs are identical across trims/years — always use the correct spec for the exact vehicle.
- DIY caster measurement errors — caster is hard to measure accurately without proper equipment; if caster is out of spec, send to a shop with a 3D alignment rack.
- Failing to test drive and re-check — heat and load can change settings.

Notes specific to Mitsubishi 4D56 platforms
- Front: most 4D56 trucks/vans use MacPherson struts — camber/caster adjustments often via eccentric bolts at strut tops or control arms.
- Rear: L200/Triton solid axles use shims/adjustable links; Pajero/Delica multi-link rears use eccentric cam bolts on links—check which rear type you have.
- Some models require specific shims or adjustable links sold as alignment kits.

Final checklist
- All alignment angles within factory tolerances.
- Steering wheel centered and locked.
- All fasteners torqued to spec.
- Test drive 10–15 minutes, then re-check toe and steering center.
- Print or record alignment report for customer.

Do the alignment only after inspection and replacement of any worn parts. For accurate caster and SAI figures use a professional 3D alignment machine; DIY methods are acceptable for basic toe/camber checks but are less reliable for caster and thrust-angle settings.
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