Ordered explanation — theory, diagnosis, step‑by‑step repair, and why it fixes the fault.

1) What “blow‑by” and the blow‑by tube do (theory)
- Blow‑by = combustion gases that pass past rings into the crankcase. Those gases carry vapor, oil mist and unburned fuel.
- The blow‑by tube (crankcase breather hose) vents that gas from the valve/rocker cover (or oil separator) back into the intake/turbo inlet so the gases are burned rather than vented to atmosphere.
- Proper function requires a clear path and often a one‑way/check valve and an oil separator. The breather should allow slight vacuum or near‑atmospheric flow; it should not allow high positive crankcase pressure.

2) Common failure modes and symptoms
- Hose split, cracked, or popped off at a grommet/clamp.
- Blocked oil separator or PCV/check valve clogged with sludge.
- Symptoms: excessive crankcase pressure, oil leaking from seals/gaskets, oil in intake/turbo, heavy smoke from exhaust, poor turbo response, hissing or oil spray from filler, or intermittent misfire from unmetered air.
- Measurable sign: elevated crankcase pressure at idle (use a simple vacuum/pressure gauge on the valve cover port: a few inHg vacuum or ~0 to small positive pressure is normal; sustained positive pressure > ~1 psi indicates restriction).

3) How to confirm the breather is at fault (quick checks)
- Visual inspection of hose from rocker cover to intake/turbo: look for splits, hardening, crushed areas, disconnections.
- Remove the breather hose and inspect for heavy sludge or blockage. Smell and oil residue indicate excessive contamination.
- With hose off (engine idling), observe flow direction and strength at the valve cover port — you should feel steady suction or weak flow into the intake, not strong blowing out.
- Measure crankcase pressure with a gauge on the valve cover port; elevated positive pressure confirms an obstructed/failed breather.

4) Ordered repair procedure (do this in sequence)
Tools/parts: replacement breather hose (OEM or oil‑resistant silicone), new grommet(s)/clamps, basic hand tools, shop rag, small vacuum/pressure gauge if available. Work on a cooled engine when possible.

A. Prepare and access
- Park on level ground, engine cool or only warm, handbrake on.
- Remove the intake hose/clamps or airbox pieces necessary to reach the breather hose and rocker cover port.

B. Remove old components
- Loosen clamps and disconnect the hose from the rocker cover and from the intake/turbo inlet/check valve.
- If present, remove the oil separator/PCV element and inspect for sludge/blockage.
- Remove any old grommet if damaged—pry out gently.

C. Inspect and clean
- Inspect the valve cover port, check valve and intake/turbo inlet for oil buildup.
- Clean the oil separator or replace it if heavily contaminated. Clean mating surfaces and grommets.
- Inspect the check valve; replace if stuck or leaking.

D. Fit new parts
- Install a new, correctly sized grommet into the valve cover port if the old one is degraded.
- Route the replacement hose exactly as original (avoid tight bends or contact with hot/exhaust parts). Use oil‑resistant hose of the same inside diameter.
- Reinstall the oil separator/PCV/check valve in correct orientation (airflow into intake/turbo).
- Secure with proper clamps (not just zip ties) at both ends. Ensure hose seats fully on spigots.

E. Reassemble and test
- Refit intake hose/airbox.
- Start engine and observe: watch for oil leaks, listen for hissing, look for smoke, and re‑check the valve cover port for suction (or use the pressure gauge). Idle and rev briefly to ensure hose stays connected and no rattles/leaks.
- Road test and re‑inspect after a short drive.

5) Why the repair fixes the fault (theory applied)
- Replacing/clearing the blow‑by tube restores the intended low‑resistance vent path so crankcase gases are drawn back into the intake/turbo and combusted.
- Cleaning or replacing the oil separator/PCV/check valve removes the restriction that caused crankcase pressure to build. That eliminates positive pressure that forces oil out past seals and gaskets.
- Correct hose routing and new grommets/clamps prevent leaks and disconnections that caused oil spray into the engine bay or unmetered air into the intake.
- Net result: reduced crankcase pressure, less oil contamination of intake/turbo, less smoke, fewer oil leaks, and restored engine/turbo performance and emissions control.

6) Practical notes / cautions (brief)
- Use hose rated for oil and heat; cheap vacuum hose will degrade.
- If crankcase pressure symptoms persist after replacing the hose/separator, investigate piston ring wear, cylinder compression, or turbo seal issues — those increase blow‑by volume and require engine repair.
- Take care when working near the turbo/exhaust; avoid contact with hot components.

That is the ordered theory and repair sequence; following it restores a correct low‑pressure vent and stops the symptoms produced by a failed/blown breather system.
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