Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Floor jack + 2 quality jack stands (rated for vehicle). Wheel chocks.
- Lug wrench / 1/2" breaker bar and socket set (metric 10–24 mm common).
- Torque wrench (capable to at least 200 Nm / 150 ft·lb).
- Impact wrench (optional) or breaker bar + extensions.
- Spring compressor (external/compression type) if reusing springs. DO NOT try to disassemble a strut spring without this.
- Ratchets, extensions, swivel, hex/Allen bits (some top nuts require helper).
- Punch, hammer, pry bar, pick, needle-nose pliers.
- PB Blaster / penetrating oil, wire brush, anti-seize.
- New parts: shocks or complete strut assemblies (preferred). Replace strut mount/dust boot/bump stop when doing fronts. New lower/upper bolts/nuts if corroded.
- Gloves, safety glasses, shop rags. Brake cleaner.
- Wheel alignment after job.

Safety first (non-negotiable)
- Work on a flat level surface; chock wheels. Loosen lug nuts before jacking.
- Support vehicle on jack stands under manufacturer-recommended points — NEVER rely on the jack alone.
- Compressed coil springs are lethal. Use a rated spring compressor and follow its instructions. If unsure, buy pre-assembled strut cartridges (complete assemblies) and avoid compressing springs.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep body clear of compressed spring path.
- If bolts are rusted, apply penetrating oil and give time to soak. Use breaker bar, not excessive force that can shear bolts.

Overview
Front = strut assembly with coil spring on most Mitsubishi models using the 6G72. Rear = shock absorber (monotube/twin-tube style) mounted to axle and body. Procedure below covers both front and rear.

Front strut removal & replacement — step-by-step
1) Prep
- Park, chock rear wheels, loosen front lug nuts ~1/2 turn.
- Jack front, place stands under subframe/safe lift points. Lower vehicle onto stands.
- Remove wheels.

2) Access & free components
- Apply penetrating oil to strut-to-knuckle bolts, sway bar link nut, and strut top nuts in engine bay.
- Support the lower control arm or knuckle with a jack so it won't drop when strut is removed.
- Remove any brackets attached to the strut: brake hose bracket, ABS sensor clip, sway bar end link (disconnect top or bottom depending on design).
- If tie-rod end interferes, you may need to separate it (use pickle fork or ball joint separator); support hub so steering arm is not left hanging.

3) Remove lower strut bolts
- With knuckle supported, remove the lower mounting bolts/nuts that attach the strut to the steering knuckle. Typical sockets: 17–22 mm. Hold the stud side and back off nuts with breaker/impact.
- Allow the knuckle to swing away carefully; keep support under knuckle.

4) Remove upper mount nuts
- Under the hood, remove the 2–3 strut-to-tower nuts while holding the strut so it doesn’t drop. Have a helper hold the strut or use a prybar in the wheel well to keep it from falling.
- Pull the strut assembly down and out.

5A) If installing a new complete strut assembly (recommended)
- Compare old vs new, transfer any brackets/bumper if needed.
- Install new strut into tower, hand-thread upper nuts to hold it.
- Align lower studs into knuckle, insert bolts, hand-tighten.
- Reattach brake hose bracket, ABS clip, sway bar link, tie-rod end if removed.
- Lower vehicle so suspension is at ride height (important for proper geometry) before final torqueing (see note below).
- Torque lower mounting bolts and upper nuts to factory specs (see note). Reinstall wheel, torque lugs to spec.

5B) If reusing springs / replacing only cartridge or rebuild (requires spring compressor)
- Clamp spring on both sides using two compressors opposite one another. Tighten equally and alternate sides until spring is relieved of tension.
- Remove the top nut that secures the strut rod (often uses an Allen key in the shaft to prevent rotation). Remove strut from spring.
- Transfer spring, bump stop, dust boot to new strut or install new components. Reassemble, making sure spring seats are correct.
- Carefully decompress evenly and remove compressors.
- Proceed with installation as above.

How to use the spring compressor (brief)
- Place two compressors opposite each other on coil. Thread them down until they contact the coils.
- Tighten alternately 1/4 turn each side so compression is even. Check seating and clearances frequently.
- Compress only as much as needed to relieve top nut load. Never compress beyond safe range marked on tool.
- When top nut removed, keep control of compressed spring until safely removed from perch.
- When reassembling, slowly and evenly decompress, ensuring spring seats into top/bottom pockets.

Reinstallation final steps & torquing
- Tighten fasteners to specified torque. If you don’t have the exact factory torque, typical ranges (verify with manual):
- Strut-to-knuckle lower bolts: ~100–150 Nm (75–110 ft·lb)
- Strut top nuts: ~40–80 Nm (30–60 ft·lb)
- Sway bar link: ~35–60 Nm (25–45 ft·lb)
- Best practice: perform final torqueing with vehicle resting on wheels (ride height). That avoids pre-loading bushings and spring bind. Torque sequence: lower bolts first, then upper nuts (verify factory procedure).
- Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, torque wheel lug nuts to spec.

Rear shock absorber replacement — step-by-step (simpler)
1) Prep
- Chock front wheels, loosen rear lug nuts, jack rear axle and support on stands. Remove wheel.

2) Remove lower shock mount
- Support axle with a jack to prevent drop.
- Remove lower shock bolt/nut (common sizes 17–22 mm), push out shock.

3) Remove upper mount
- Access upper shock nut(s) in cargo area or wheelwell; remove retaining nuts and pull shock down. Some designs have the shock remove downward first.

4) Install new shock
- Fit new shock into upper mount, secure upper nut loosely. Insert lower bolt; tighten both to spec once hanging or with vehicle at ride height as per factory.
- Replace mounting bushings if worn. Replace rusted bolts.

5) Reassemble and torque
- Lower vehicle, torque shock mounting bolts to spec. Reinstall wheel, torque lugs.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not supporting knuckle/control arm: can overstress ball joints and tie rod ends. Always support with jack.
- Incorrect spring compressor use: uneven compression or using a single compressor can slip and release dangerously. Use two compressors opposite each other and rated for the spring.
- Reusing worn strut mounts/bump stops/dust boots: they fail quickly and ruin new struts. Replace these small parts whenever doing front struts.
- Over-torquing or under-torquing: use a torque wrench. Final torque with vehicle at ride height unless factory states otherwise.
- Using cheap hardware: corroded brake lines, seized bolts — replace hardware if corroded. Use anti-seize on threads where appropriate.
- Forgetting alignment: replacing struts/shocks changes suspension geometry; ALWAYS get a 4-wheel alignment after front strut work (rear shocks usually OK, but check toe/camber).
- Not checking brake hoses/ABS wiring clearance: secure them so they don’t bind when suspension cycles.

Disposal
- Shocks/struts contain hydraulic fluid and sometimes pressurized gas. Drain and dispose or recycle per local regulations.

Parts recommendations
- Use OEM part or high-quality aftermarket: KYB, Bilstein, Monroe, Sachs. For front, buy either full strut assemblies (easiest & safest) or strut cartridges + mounts/dust boots + bump stops.
- Replace lower/upper mounting hardware if damaged or corroded.

Final check list before driving
- All fasteners torqued to spec.
- Brake lines/ABS wires secured clear of moving parts.
- Sway bar links reconnected.
- Wheels torqued.
- Test drive slowly to confirm noise-free operation.
- Book alignment.

That's it — follow factory torque values and precautions. If you’re unsure about spring compression, buy complete strut assemblies or have a shop do the compression step.
rteeqp73

INSTALLING CYLINDER HEAD 6G72. #engine #overhaul #mitsubishi #pajero

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