- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses and gloves, work on a cool engine, disconnect the negative battery terminal before touching ignition components to avoid sparks or accidental cranking.
- Keep the work area clean and the ignition key out of the switch while you work.

- What the job is (short)
- You are removing and replacing the ignition coils (coil-on-plug units) that sit on top of the spark plugs on the Mitsubishi 6G72 V6.
- Many 6G72 installations use one coil per cylinder; confirm visually on your engine — coils are electrical modules mounted directly above each spark plug.

- Tools you need and how to use each (detailed)
- Ratchet handle (3/8" drive recommended)
- Use to turn sockets. Flip the small lever to change direction for loosening/tightening. Keep firm, steady pressure and avoid sudden force to prevent rounding bolts.
- Metric socket set (common sizes include 8 mm and 10 mm)
- Choose the socket that fits the coil mounting bolt snugly. Push onto the bolt fully before turning to avoid slippage.
- Extension bar(s)
- Use when bolts sit recessed. Attach to the ratchet then the socket so you can reach down into narrow wells.
- Spark plug socket (deep socket with rubber insert, 5/8" or 16 mm is common)
- Only needed if you will remove or inspect spark plugs. The rubber insert holds the plug so you can remove/insert without dropping it.
- Small torque wrench (inch-lb or ft-lb range)
- Recommended for reinstalling spark plugs and coil bolts to avoid under- or over-tightening. Set the wrench to the specified torque and tighten until it clicks; if you don’t have a torque wrench, snug the fastener and give a small additional quarter turn—don’t overtighten.
- Combination pliers or needle-nose pliers
- Useful for pulling clips and coaxing connectors; grip gently to avoid breaking plastic tabs.
- Small flathead screwdriver
- Use to depress connector tabs or pry lightly; use carefully to avoid snapping plastic.
- Dielectric grease (small tube)
- Apply a thin smear inside the top of the coil boot where it seats on the spark plug to prevent moisture and arcing. Not conductive—do not overapply.
- Multimeter (digital)
- For basic testing: set to ohms to check coil resistance and continuity, set to DC volts to check connector voltage while cranking (take precautions—engine off and battery disconnected for resistance tests).
- To measure resistance, remove the coil harness connector and measure across the coil’s primary terminals and secondary output per a service manual; compare to specs.
- OBD-II code reader (basic)
- Plug into the vehicle’s diagnostic port to read misfire or coil circuit codes (P0301–P0306 indicate misfires per cylinder; P0351–P0356 indicate coil circuit faults).
- Battery terminal wrench (often 10 mm)
- Use to loosen the negative battery clamp for battery disconnection.
- Clean shop rags, a small tray for bolts, and disposable gloves
- Keep bolts together and parts clean.

- Optional but useful tools and why
- Small mirror and flashlight
- Helps see connectors and coil boots in tight spaces.
- Compressed air or brake cleaner (and a rag)
- Clean debris from around coil boots before removal to avoid dropping dirt into spark plug wells.
- Work light
- Better visibility shortens mistakes.

- How to remove and replace an ignition coil (basic safe procedure)
- Remove any engine plastic cover that blocks access by undoing visible fasteners and lifting it off.
- Clean the area around each coil with compressed air or a rag to remove dirt so nothing falls into the plug well when you remove the coil.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal with the battery wrench.
- Unplug the electrical connector on the coil by depressing the plastic tab and pulling the connector straight off; use a small flat screwdriver to release stubborn tabs carefully.
- Remove the coil mounting bolt with the ratchet and the correct metric socket and extension if needed; place bolt in your parts tray.
- Pull the coil straight up to remove it; twist gently if it’s stuck—don’t yank on the wiring.
- Inspect the coil boot and the tip of the spark plug: cracked boot, heavy oil, or carbon tracking on the coil indicates replacement. If you plan to replace spark plugs, use the spark plug socket to remove the plug next.
- Install the new or inspected coil: apply a thin dab of dielectric grease inside the top of the coil boot (not on the spark plug threads), seat the coil over the plug, reinstall the mounting bolt and snug it—use a torque wrench if available to the manufacturer bolt spec or snug only and avoid excessive force.
- Reconnect the coil electrical connector until it clicks.
- Repeat for each coil as needed.
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal, clear any stored codes with your OBD-II reader, and start the engine to verify smooth running.

- How to test before replacing (to avoid unnecessary parts purchase)
- Read codes with OBD-II reader; note cylinder-specific misfire codes or coil circuit codes.
- Swap the suspected bad coil with a good coil from another cylinder (with engine off and ignition off). If the misfire code moves to the other cylinder, the coil is bad.
- Use a multimeter to measure coil primary/secondary resistance per the service manual specs; out-of-spec readings mean replace that coil.
- Inspect boots and connectors for corrosion, oil, or cracked rubber—sometimes cleaning or replacing the boot only will fix it.

- When replacement is required and what to buy
- Replace the ignition coil when it fails testing, shows visible damage (cracked housing, carbon tracking, burns), produces persistent misfire trouble codes not fixed by other checks, or is old and intermittent.
- Replacement parts
- Buy coil(s) specified for Mitsubishi 6G72 for your exact year and model. OEM Mitsubishi coils, or reputable aftermarket equivalents from Denso or NGK, are typical choices.
- If a coil is damaged, consider replacing the spark plug at the same time if it’s high mileage or fouled; use the correct plug type and gap for the 6G72 (check the service manual or plug packaging for the exact specification).
- Buy new coil mounting bolts if they are corroded or threads are damaged.
- Recommendation on quantity
- You can replace just the failing coil; some people replace all coils at once if one fails and the others are high-mileage to avoid repeat labor later.

- Final checks
- After reinstalling, reconnect battery, clear codes, start engine, and verify idle smoothness and no new codes.
- Road test the car. If misfire symptoms persist, further diagnosis of fuel, compression, or wiring may be needed.

- Quick troubleshooting reminders
- Dirt or oil in the boot can mimic a bad coil—clean and inspect thoroughly.
- Loose or corroded electrical connectors cause intermittent faults—ensure connectors click fully when reinstalled.

- Parts and reference notes
- Exact OEM coil part numbers vary by year and model; provide your vehicle year/model only to a parts supplier or look up by VIN for the precise match.
- Service manual contains torque specs and electrical resistance values—use it when available.

- Safety closing
- If you feel unsure at any step, stop and get help from a professional mechanic rather than forcing parts. Reinstalling coils incorrectly can cause engine damage or safety hazards.
rteeqp73

6G72 Engine Assembly - Part 2 - What did I do wrong? In the last video I get the pistons and crankshaft installed only to find out that I could not turn the crank a full 360 degrees.

Mitsubishi DOHC V6 (6G72) Service Highlights Explanation of the Mitsubishi DOHC V6.

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