- Safety first (read before starting)
- Wear safety glasses and gloves; protect skin from fluid and sharp edges.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent starter/ECU damage or accidental engine crank.
- Work on a level surface; always use quality jack stands — never rely on a hydraulic jack alone.
- Block wheels and chock the tires left on the ground.
- Have a fire extinguisher nearby if you’ll be working with fluids or fuel vapors.
- Keep a phone nearby for emergencies.

- Summary of what “flexplate” work involves
- The flexplate bolts the torque converter to the engine crank flange and transfers engine rotation to the automatic transmission. Replacing it usually requires separating or lowering the transmission to access the bolts and remove the flexplate.
- Typical reasons to replace: cracked/flexible/distorted plate, broken or missing ring gear teeth, damaged bolt holes, or severe corrosion. If bolts are loose/damaged, replace bolts and the flexplate.

- Essential tools (every tool described; how to use it)
- Floor jack
- Description: Low-profile jack used to raise the vehicle.
- How to use: Position under manufacturer jack point, pump handle to raise, then place jack stands before working under car. Use to lift and to support transmission if you don’t have a transmission jack (see below).
- Jack stands (2 minimum, rated for vehicle weight)
- Description: Mechanical stands that hold vehicle at a set height.
- How to use: Place under solid frame points, slowly lower vehicle onto stands. Never work under car supported only by a hydraulic jack.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: Blocks to prevent vehicle roll.
- How to use: Place behind wheels that remain on ground.
- Metric socket set (deep and shallow), 3/8” and 1/2” drive ratchets and extensions
- Description: Common sizes (8–22 mm sockets are typical).
- How to use: Choose correct socket, use extension to reach recessed bolts. Deep sockets needed for bolts that protrude past the nut plane.
- Breaker bar (18–36”)
- Description: Long non-ratcheting bar that provides leverage.
- How to use: Fit socket on stuck bolt/nut and apply steady force to break free fasteners.
- Torque wrench (click-type, range at least 10–150 ft·lb)
- Description: Tool to tighten bolts to a specific torque.
- How to use: Set desired torque, tighten bolt until wrench clicks; ensures correct clamping force on flexplate, torque converter, and transmission mounting bolts.
- Impact gun (optional, pneumatic or battery)
- Description: Speeds removal of stubborn bolts.
- How to use: Use sparingly and carefully on bolts; verify torque values after using impact (always torque to spec with torque wrench on reassembly).
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips) and small pry bar
- Description: For removing clips, electrical connectors, and gently prying starter or transmission halves apart.
- How to use: Use flat to release clips; use pry bar gently between mating surfaces after bolts are removed — avoid prying on aluminum housings near bolt holes.
- Transmission jack or a second floor jack with a piece of wood
- Description: Supports and lowers the transmission safely.
- How to use: Place jack under transmission pan or bellhousing area with wood spreader; slowly lower transmission once bolts are removed.
- Engine support (optional, if removing engine mounts)
- Description: Crossbar or hoist to hold engine if you must remove an engine mount.
- How to use: Support engine so it doesn’t tip or fall when transmission is lowered.
- Pry bar or alignment tool (transmission alignment tool)
- Description: Alignment tool centers torque converter when mating to flexplate; pry bar helps separate mating surfaces.
- How to use: Use alignment tool to center parts; use pry bar carefully between bellhousing and block to break the seal.
- Clutch/rotating lock tool or helper for turning engine (or large breaker bar on crank bolt)
- Description: Holds crank from rotating while removing bolts or turns engine to index access holes.
- How to use: Use breaker bar with correct socket on crank bolt, or use starter temporarily to rotate engine (battery reconnected briefly with neutral and wheels chocked—exercise extreme caution). Prefer manual rotation methods.
- Hammer and punch (for sealing or dowel removal)
- Description: For tapping stuck dowels loose or gently tapping new dowel pins in.
- How to use: Tap lightly; avoid damaging precision surfaces.
- Clean rags, brake cleaner or parts cleaner, drip pan, disposal container for fluids
- Description: For cleaning mating surfaces and catching fluid.
- How to use: Clean oil and grime from flexplate and bellhousing area; capture any fluid drained.

- Additional recommended/potentially required tools and why
- Transmission jack (strongly recommended)
- Why required: Safely supports transmission weight (often 100+ lb) and lets you lower it straight—reduces risk to you and the transmission.
- Harmonic balancer/crank pulley tool (if crank bolt must be removed)
- Why required: Some operations need the crank bolt removed to rotate engine or remove balancer; special tool prevents balancer from turning and prevents damage when removing pulley.
- Flywheel/flexplate holding tool (optional)
- Why required: Holds flexplate/crank while loosening/tightening bolts; makes torqueing easier and safer.
- Torque converter bolt set (new bolts)
- Why required: Torque converter bolts are often single-use or stretch-type and should be replaced; reused bolts can fail.
- Loctite (red/blue per spec)
- Why required: Prevents bolts from backing out; factory may specify a thread locker grade.
- New transmission fluid and gasket/sealants
- Why required: You may lose some fluid when separating the transmission; any seals disturbed or removed should be replaced.

- Parts that might need replacement and why
- Flexplate (required if damaged)
- Why: Cracks, warped plate, broken or missing ring gear teeth, or elongated bolt holes require replacement — flexplates are not usually repairable.
- What to buy: OEM part for Mitsubishi 6G72 automatic application (match engine year and transmission model). Confirm ring gear tooth count and bolt pattern.
- Torque converter bolts (recommended replacement)
- Why: Often specified as torque-to-yield or single-use; ensure proper clamping and safety.
- Starter (inspect; replace if worn)
- Why: Starter removal is required for access; if worn, replace while you’re there.
- Rear main seal (inspect)
- Why: If the flexplate/torque converter area shows oil contamination or you’ve removed components near the seal, inspection/replacement prevents future leaks.
- Pilot bushing/bearing (if applicable)
- Why: Check for wear if transmission has been removed; replace if worn.
- Transmission mount(s) or bellhousing bolts (inspect and replace if damaged)
- Why: Worn mounts lead to misalignment/stress on the flexplate and bolts.

- General step-by-step procedure (bullets in sequence)
- Prepare vehicle: disconnect battery negative, chock wheels, raise vehicle with floor jack, place on jack stands.
- Remove starter: disconnect electrical plugs and remove mounting bolts; set starter aside.
- Support transmission: place transmission jack under transmission pan area (or use floor jack + wood block) to support its weight.
- Drain or be ready to catch any fluid if separating transmission: place drip pan under bellhousing. (Full drain not always required but be prepared.)
- Remove transmission-to-engine bolts: use correct socket lengths and extensions; remove all bellhousing bolts and set aside in a labeled tray.
- Separate transmission from engine: gently pry at the bellhousing seam after bolts removed; be ready to lower the transmission slowly on the transmission jack. Ensure torque converter remains engaged on the input shaft until transmission is slightly pulled back — until you can access torque converter bolts.
- Access torque converter bolts through bellhousing or when transmission is slightly separated: rotate engine to align holes (use breaker bar on crank bolt; snugly hold crank from moving while undoing bolts). Remove torque converter-to-flexplate bolts.
- Fully remove transmission (lower it carefully) so torque converter and flexplate are accessible.
- Remove torque converter from trans input shaft if needed; support torque converter.
- Remove flexplate bolts from crank: mark the flexplate orientation relative to crank before removing (a paint mark or scribe). Remove bolts; inspect for damaged washers or broken bolts.
- Remove flexplate: pull flexplate off crank flange; inspect ring gear, bolt holes, and crank flange for damage.
- Inspect crank flange and rear main seal area: clean and check for wear or oil; replace rear main seal if leaking or contaminated.
- Install new flexplate: align flexplate to the same orientation as old one using your marks; start all bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use new torque converter bolts (thread locker if specified): snug bolts in sequence; rotate engine to verify even seating. Torque bolts to factory spec (refer to the factory manual for the 6G72 specific torque). After snugging, torque to spec using torque wrench; re-check after initial engine run.
- Reinstall transmission: lift transmission into position on the jack, slide input shaft into torque converter while aligning splines — be careful and gentle; ensure transmission bellhousing mates flush to the engine block and dowel pins align.
- Reinstall all bellhousing bolts and torque to spec with the torque wrench.
- Reinstall starter, reconnect any sensors and wiring, and reconnect battery.
- Refill transmission fluid to proper level with the correct spec fluid and run engine to normal temperature, cycle through gears, top up fluid to correct level.
- Test drive carefully, listen for noise/vibration; re-check bolt torques after a short break-in drive.

- Key usage tips for critical tools
- Torque wrench: always clean and lube threads lightly (if manual requires), set to specified torque, tighten smoothly until click and then stop — do not “bump” it past the click or use an impact to reach torque.
- Breaker bar: apply slow, steady force; do not jerk. If bolt won’t break, try penetrating oil and let soak.
- Transmission jack: center load and use straps to keep transmission from shifting; lower slowly and evenly to avoid binding or damage to splines.
- Pry bar between bellhousing and block: only pry at safe locations (consult manual) — excessive prying can crack aluminum housings.

- Important notes and cautions
- Always use factory service manual data for bolt torque values and tightening sequence for the 6G72 and its specific transmission model — incorrect torques can cause bolt failure or transmission damage.
- Replace torque converter bolts and any fasteners that show corrosion, stretching, or damage.
- If you are unsure about using a transmission jack or separating the transmission, consider professional help — transmission removal and alignment are heavy and can damage components or cause injury.
- Dispose of used transmission fluid and cleaning solvents according to local regulations.

- Quick checklist of parts to purchase before starting
- Correct flexplate for Mitsubishi 6G72 (match year and transmission)
- Torque converter bolts (new set)
- Transmission fluid (correct spec and quantity)
- Rear main seal (if leaking or if you’ll replace while here)
- Loctite per factory spec, replacement bellhousing bolts if corroded

- Final reminder
- Follow the factory manual procedures and torque specs for the 6G72/transmission combination. If you need torque figures or a parts number, consult a service manual or parts supplier for your exact year/model — do not guess torque values.

No extra commentary.
rteeqp73

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