Short version up front: the camshaft position sensor (CMP) on the Mitsubishi 6G72 tells the engine computer exactly where the camshaft (and therefore the valves) are so the ECU can time fuel injection and ignition properly. If it fails you’ll get a check engine light, rough idle, misfires, poor starting or no-start. Below is a beginner-friendly, detailed walk-through of every component, how the system works, diagnostic checks, removal/installation, and what commonly goes wrong. No extra fluff.

What the parts are (every component you’ll touch or need to know)
- Camshaft position sensor (CMP/CAM sensor): the sensor body that mounts to the cylinder head/valve cover area and reads the camshaft’s position. Can be 2-wire (variable reluctance/inductive) or 3-wire (Hall-effect). 3-wire = 5V reference, ground, signal. 2-wire = signal only (AC) and ground.
- Sensor O‑ring/seal: rubber ring that seals the sensor to the head. Often replaced with the sensor.
- Mounting bolt(s): typically a small bolt (often 8–10 mm head). Holds the sensor in place.
- Camshaft reluctor/trigger (or target): a reluctor tooth or metal boss on the camshaft or cam sprocket that passes by the sensor and creates the signal.
- Wiring harness/connector: the plug that connects the sensor to the vehicle wiring/ECU.
- ECU (engine control unit): reads the CMP signal and coordinates ignition/injection with crankshaft position.
- Related sensors: crankshaft position sensor (CKP) — CMP alone isn’t enough; the ECU uses CKP + CMP together to determine cylinder # and phase.
- Tools: basic metric socket set, ratchet, extension, flat screwdriver or small pick (for connector tab), multimeter (DVM) and/or oscilloscope (if available), dielectric grease, replacement sensor (and O-ring), torque wrench helpful.

Theory — how it works (analogy included)
- Analogy: Think of the engine like a 6‑person rowing team. The crankshaft is the rhythm of the stroke (where the oars move), and the camshaft is which rower is about to pull (which cylinder is on its power stroke). The CKP (crank sensor) is the metronome telling the rhythm; the CMP (cam sensor) tells the ECU which rower is at which position so the ECU can fire the right cylinder at the right time. Both signals together let the ECU know “which cylinder, and where in the cycle.”
- Electrical: As the cam reluctor passes the sensor, the sensor produces an electrical signal. A 3‑wire Hall sensor needs power (5V), ground, and produces a digital square-wave or pulse. A 2‑wire VR sensor produces an AC waveform proportional to speed; it doesn’t need a reference voltage.
- ECU use: The ECU compares CMP and CKP signals and decides sequential injection timing and coil firing. If the cam signal is missing, the ECU may revert to limp or batch mode or won’t know cylinder # — causing rough running or no start.

Why this repair is needed
- Symptoms: check engine light (codes like P0340, P0341, P0345, etc.), poor idle, stalling, misfire, reduced power, hard start or no-start, erratic ignition timing. Some cars will run but in limp mode (reduced performance).
- CMP failures: sensor internal failure, wiring/connector damage, oil contamination, broken O‑ring causing leaks, reluctor damage (missing tooth), or timing belt/chain issues that alter cam position.

Diagnosing the CMP (stepwise)
1. Read trouble codes with a scanner. Codes P0340/P0341 etc. point to CMP circuits.
2. Visual inspection: check sensor connector for corrosion, oil, bent pins, and wiring for chafing.
3. Identify sensor type by counting wires: 3 = Hall (5V ref); 2 = VR (AC).
4. With key ON (engine OFF) test Hall sensor:
- Backprobe connector: measure reference wire for ~4.5–5V, ground for continuity to chassis, signal wire should sit near 0–5V resting (often low). Crank engine and watch signal — you should see pulsing voltage (use scanner live data, DMM frequency, or oscilloscope).
5. With a VR sensor:
- Use AC mV scale on DMM. Crank or spin cam; you should see an AC voltage (hundreds of mV to a volt, depending on RPM). No AC = bad.
6. Resistance checks: a VR sensor will have a characteristic coil resistance (consult service manual). Hall sensors will show near continuity between ground and ground; signal circuit not shorted to power.
7. Scope is best: nitty-gritty: clean square pulses for Hall; sine/triangle AC pulses for VR.
8. Wiggle test: with engine running (if it runs), gently wiggle harness and sensor while monitoring signal or engine behavior — intermittent faults show up.

Safety and prep
- Disconnect negative battery terminal if you’ll be unplugging connectors or working near ignition modules. Some checks require battery connected (voltage reference checks) — do those with care.
- Engine hot? Work on a cool engine to avoid burns.
- Park on level surface, set parking brake.
- Wear gloves and safety glasses.

Removal (typical steps—follow manual/details for your model)
- Time estimate: 20–60 minutes depending on access and whether intake/cover must be removed.
1. Gather tools and replacement sensor (with new O-ring).
2. Remove engine cover/intake components blocking access (many 6G72 applications have an engine cover/air inlet that must be removed).
3. Locate the CMP sensor: it mounts on the cylinder head/valve cover near the camshaft area. (If stuck: consult a vehicle-specific manual or a diagram for the exact bank and location.)
4. Disconnect the sensor connector: release the locking tab (use a small pick if needed), pull the plug straight off.
5. Remove mounting bolt(s) with the appropriate socket. Keep track of bolt(s).
6. Pull the sensor straight out. Expect some resistance if O‑ring is snug; rotate slightly while pulling. Inspect O‑ring/seal. Check inside bore for metal debris or broken reluctor.
7. Inspect the sensor face and reluctor area for oil, carbon, bent/missing teeth, or damage. Clean slight oil with a rag. If the cam sprocket reluctor is damaged, that’s a separate timing-related repair.

Installation (reverse removal; important details)
1. Compare old vs new sensor to ensure correct part and same wire count/connector.
2. Lightly apply dielectric grease to the connector terminals (not inside the sensor tip). Replace O‑ring if not integral to new sensor.
3. Insert the sensor straight in; do not force. Make sure O‑ring seats and sensor sits flush.
4. Install mounting bolt and tighten snugly. Common torque range for CMP bolts is low — typically around 5–10 Nm (40–90 in‑lb), often roughly 4–8 ft‑lb. If you don’t have exact manual torque, snug it securely but don’t over-torque.
5. Reconnect wiring harness, ensuring the locking tab clicks.
6. Reinstall any covers/intake removed.
7. Reconnect battery negative if it was disconnected.

Post-install checks
- Clear stored codes with scanner and perform a test start.
- Watch for code returns, idle quality, and any misfire. Use live data to ensure CMP signal is present and valid.
- If engine won’t start: confirm CKP sensor signal as well—CMP often used with CKP for cylinder identification.

Common things that can go wrong (and how to spot them)
- Oil contamination: O-ring failure or worn seal lets oil into connector or sensor tip — causes intermittent signals. Inspect and replace O‑ring; clean surfaces.
- Broken/missing reluctor tooth or damaged cam sprocket: causes erratic/no signal; requires timing/cam/valve train repair.
- Wiring harness damage: chafed wires, corrosion in connector — intermittent faults that show up on wiggle test or visual inspection. Repair harness or replace connector.
- Faulty ground or reference voltage: a bad ECU ground or blown fuse (if Hall sensor reference is fused) will kill the sensor signal—check for 5V reference.
- Wrong replacement part: sensors look similar; make sure pinout and type match.
- Bolt overtightened/stripped: can crack sensor housing or threads — replace bolt or heal threads carefully.
- Sensor physically installed at wrong depth or tilted: messy signal — seat properly.
- ECU issue: rare, but if wiring and sensor good and codes persist, ECU input circuit fault may need professional diagnosis.

Quick tests summarized
- No start + P0340: check CMP connector, 5V reference, ground, backprobe signal while cranking.
- Intermittent codes: wiggle harness while engine runs/cranks; watch for signal dropouts.
- DMM checks: Hall = look for pulsing 0–5V during crank; VR = AC mV during crank.
- If you replace sensor and codes return immediately: recheck installation, connector seating, and inspect reluctor for damage.

Parts and tools checklist
- Replacement CMP sensor (ensure correct part number for your 6G72 application)
- New O‑ring/seal (if not included)
- Basic socket set (8–14 mm), ratchet, extension
- Torque wrench (optional but recommended)
- Multimeter; oscilloscope or scan tool with live-data (recommended)
- Dielectric grease, rags, gloves

Final tips (practical)
- Always replace the O‑ring when you replace the sensor.
- Keep the connector clean and don’t force it — small plastic tabs break easily.
- If the sensor looks greasy/oily, clean the bore before installing new sensor; check valve cover gasket/PCV if oil contamination is excessive.
- If you have codes related to timing or multiple cam/crank mismatches, inspect the timing belt/chain and related components — CMP replacement only fixes the sensor, not a slipped timing belt/chain.

That’s the full beginner‑friendly guide: what the CMP is, how it works, how to diagnose failures, how to remove and install it, and what commonly goes wrong. Follow these steps and use a service manual for model‑specific illustrations and exact torque values if you want model-accurate specs.
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