Goal: replace a headlight bulb or the whole headlight assembly on a Mitsubishi with the 6G72 engine (typical 1990s–2000s Mitsubishi cars/SUVs). This guide covers the components you’ll see, how the system works, common failures, safety, a bulb-replacement procedure, and steps for removing/replacing the whole assembly and aiming the lights. No fluff.

Important safety notes
- Work with the ignition off and keys out. If you’re disconnecting wiring or mounting hardware near the battery, remove the negative battery terminal to prevent shorts.
- Halogen bulbs are fragile and get extremely hot. Never touch the glass with bare fingers — oils cause hot spots and short bulb life. Use gloves or a clean paper towel.
- Wear eye protection and keep the vehicle parked on level ground with the parking brake on.

What each component is and what it does
- Battery: power source for the whole car. Supplies 12 V to the headlight circuit.
- Fuse(s): protect the headlight circuit from overcurrent. Located in the fuse box; one fuse per circuit (left/right or low/high). If a fuse is blown, the headlight won’t get power.
- Headlight relay (if equipped): an electrically operated switch that lets the headlight switch control high current without running heavy current through the dash switch.
- Headlight switch: the dash control that tells the relay/ circuit to send power to the bulbs.
- Wiring harness & connectors: insulated wires and plugs that carry power from the relay/fuse to the headlight bulb. Includes ground wire(s) that return current to the battery negative.
- Bulb (halogen H4, H7, or 9003/ HB4 etc. depending on model): the light source. Some bulbs are dual-filament (one bulb does low and high beam). The filament glows when current passes through it.
- Bulb socket and connector: the plastic/metal holder and electrical connector that supply power and hold the bulb contacts.
- Dust cap (rubber or plastic) on the back of the headlight housing: seals the bulb area to keep moisture/dirt out.
- Spring clip or retaining ring: mechanical clip or ring that locks the bulb into the reflector.
- Headlight housing/reflector: the plastic assembly that holds the bulb and reflects light forward. The reflector is a shaped mirror that directs the beam.
- Lens (front) : polycarbonate cover that protects the reflector and shapes how light exits.
- Mounting bolts/brackets: hold the assembly to the car’s body. Typical positions: top, inner (toward radiator) and sometimes behind/under or in the fender well.
- Adjuster screws: screws/gear mechanisms that change vertical and horizontal aim of the reflector.
- Headlight leveling motor (if equipped): automatic/manual motor that adjusts aim for load/angle.

How the system works — plain language
Think of the headlight system as a water system:
- Battery = water tank.
- Fuse/relay = gate/valve that opens only when the switch is turned on.
- Wiring = pipes that carry the water.
- Bulb = light bulb is like a small heater element that glows when electricity flows (like water turning a turbine).
When you turn on the switch, the relay/fuse allows current from the battery through the wiring into the bulb’s filament. Current heats the filament and it emits light. The reflector focuses that light forward like a flashlight reflector. The ground wire completes the circuit back to the battery.

Why this repair is needed (symptoms and causes)
- Bulb burnt out (most common): filament breaks from age or vibration.
- Moisture/condensation inside lens: causes corrosion on socket or shorting, foggy light, faster bulb failure.
- Corroded socket or wiring: bad connection reduces or cuts power; causes flicker or no light.
- Melted connector from overheating (poor contact): unsafe, needs replacement.
- Broken aiming adjuster or damaged housing: beam misaligned or assembly rattling.
- Blown fuse or failed relay: both bulbs dead or one side dead.
- Physical damage (collision) to lens or housing: requires assembly replacement.

Tools & supplies
- Replacement bulb (check owner manual or existing bulb — common types: H4, H7, 9003/ HB3/HB4 depending on model/year).
- Screwdrivers (Phillips & flat), socket set (8–14 mm), ratchet, extension.
- Needle-nose pliers, shop gloves, clean lint-free gloves or paper towel, dielectric grease.
- Replacement connectors or repair kit if wiring or socket is corroded.
- Torque modestly; use hand-tightening and a snug fit—don’t over-torque plastic.

Bulb replacement — step-by-step (most direct, common method)
This covers replacing a single bulb (not removing whole assembly).

1. Prepare
- Park on level ground and set parking brake. Turn lights off and remove key.
- Put on gloves or use a clean cloth/paper towel for the new bulb.

2. Access the headlight rear
- Open the hood and locate the rear of the headlight housing. On many 6G72 models the back of the headlight is accessible from the engine bay; in some cases you’ll need to remove an air intake duct or battery to gain clearance.
- If removal of the battery or airbox is required, disconnect the negative battery terminal first.

3. Remove dust cover
- There may be a rubber dust cap or plastic cover over the bulb socket. Twist and pull or unclip it to expose the bulb connector.

4. Disconnect electrical connector
- Squeeze the release tab and pull the wiring connector straight off the bulb socket. If it’s corroded, wiggle gently; do not pull by wires.

5. Release retaining clip / ring
- Most bulbs are held by a spring clip or plastic retaining ring. Unhook the spring clip or rotate/remove the ring. Note the clip orientation so you can reattach the same way.

6. Remove old bulb
- Carefully pull the bulb straight out. Don’t force or twist unless a ring requires turning.

7. Install new bulb
- Without touching the glass, insert the new bulb into the reflector in the exact orientation of the old one. Ensure it seats fully.
- Secure the spring clip or retaining ring to lock it in place.

8. Reconnect connector and dust cap
- Reattach the electrical connector until it clicks.
- Replace the dust cap, making sure it seals firmly.
- Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to connector pins if exposed and you expect moisture issues.

9. Test
- Reconnect the battery if you removed it. Turn on low beam and high beam to verify operation. Cycle a few times to check for flicker.

10. Reassemble any removed parts and close hood.

Replacing the whole headlight assembly — overview
If the housing is cracked, lens badly faded, or mount points broken, replace entire assembly.

1. Prep & access
- Remove negative battery terminal if working near battery or electronics.
- Some models require removing grille, bumper, or inner fender lining for access. Identify and remove screws, clips, and bolts: top bolts under the hood above headlight, inner bolts reachable from wheel well, and bolts behind the bumper or undercarriage.

2. Remove bolts and clips
- Remove the mounting bolts holding the assembly. Keep track and group them.

3. Disconnect wiring
- Pull the headlight wiring connector(s) out (bulb connector and any side marker/turn signal connectors). Remove mounting tabs/clips.

4. Remove assembly
- Pull the assembly forward and out. Be careful not to scratch paint.

5. Transfer components if needed
- Transfer bulbs, wiring harness brackets, or aim adjusters from old assembly to new if not included.

6. Install new assembly
- Position the new assembly, reconnect wiring, loosely install mounting bolts so you can adjust fit.
- Align assembly and torque bolts snugly — don’t overtighten plastic brackets.

7. Aim the headlights (see below) and test all lights.

Headlight aiming (basic method)
- Park the vehicle on level ground facing a vertical wall 7.6 m (25 ft) away with the car grounded (half-full tank, driver in seat or weight equivalent).
- Mark the centerlines of each headlight on the wall (measure center of headlight lens to ground and from centerline of vehicle).
- Turn on low beams. The top of the bright cutoff should be slightly below the horizontal line (usually about 2 inches down at 25 ft — check local spec).
- Use vertical and horizontal adjuster screws on the housing to move the beam until both are aligned to the marks and equal.
- For dual-filament bulbs: adjust low-beam cutoff; high beam aim should be centered and higher.

Common problems and how to diagnose & fix them
- Bulb won’t light: check fuse(s) first, then wiring, then bulb. Swap known-good bulb to test.
- Flicker: loose connector, poor ground, corroded socket, or failing relay. Check and clean connectors and grounds.
- Dim light: aging bulb, low battery voltage, corroded connector, dirty reflector or lens. Replace bulb and clean/restore lens.
- Moisture inside lens: failed dust cap or cracked housing. Replace dust cap or seal; if cracked housing, replace assembly.
- Overheating/melted socket: poor contact causing high resistance. Replace socket/connector and possibly wiring harness; inspect for damage and repair wiring.
- One beam (high/low) out in a dual-filament bulb: bulb failure—replace bulb. If whole headlight out, check fuse/relay/wiring.

Tips and best practices
- Never touch halogen bulb glass. Oils shorten life.
- Replace bulbs in pairs for even color and brightness.
- Use dielectric grease on connectors to reduce corrosion.
- If the headlight housing is cloudy, clean or restore lens to improve output before assuming bulb is weak.
- Keep spare fuses and one spare bulb in the glovebox.
- If wiring looks melted or brittle, repair properly—don’t just tape it. Use proper connectors, solder, and heat shrink or OEM-style replacements.

Analogy summary
- The headlight assembly is like a flashlight: the bulb is the battery-powered light source, the reflector is the mirror concentrator, the lens shapes the beam, and the housing is the flashlight case. The wiring, fuse and relay are the switch and wiring that let you turn the flashlight on and off safely.

If something goes wrong while you’re doing this (e.g., connector won’t come off, assembly stuck), don’t pry excessively—look for hidden fasteners, clips, or refer to the specific vehicle’s service manual diagrams. That keeps the job simple and avoids breaking plastic tabs.

End.
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Mitsubishi DOHC V6 (6G72) Service Highlights Explanation of the Mitsubishi DOHC V6.

2018+Mitsubushi Pajero V93 Chassis & 6G72 engine gearbox Live Gearbox Torque Converter Seal Replace.

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